Thrustmaster wheel anomalies and fixes(T300/TX possibly others)

[toweleeie]

hello again folks
iv just completed a wheel repair on a TX base, new glue, talked about in this thread...... have a quick look

Another TX/T300 calibration problem thread...

Hey all, Came to this forum searching for a solution to my problems. Seems like there's some very knowledgeable users on here and apparently a lot of the advice given has worked for many people. Unfortunately I have continued to have issues and am now at a bit of a loss. I bought the wheel...

www.racedepartment.com

so on the above, the notchy feeling and the hall sensor position

iv been fiddling about with the wheel again this evening, it felt notchy, so i decided to have another look at the hall sensor position and its effect on the wheel, i also got a fellow sim racers to come round and observe to prove i wasnt gangster tripping......... heres what we found......

so, i removed the fibre washers/spacers(mod) from the hall sensor mount points and re attached, i hadnt noticed that the sensor was misaligned, not parallel with the magnet face. i soon noticed that something was wrong as when plugging the USB in the wheel rotation going right was stronger than it turning left on calabration. the wheel was also very free moving, very little notchy....ness ha.

i believe the reason why the wheel turns faster in one direction than the other is because of the mis-aligned sensor(proved with the next test), i also think that reason this happens to wheels that havnt been opened up before is the failing glue on the shaft rotor could causes the shaft to move ever so slightly too close to the hall sensor, as iv shown here, distance and angle of the sensor are critical to the operation of the FFB, dont ask me why this is the case mind hahahahaa

We then re attached the sensor using the fibre washers/spacers, and i told 'fellow sim racer observer friend' to watch how the wheel now initialized, i said it would be more aggresive and equal in speed both left and right, sure enough, i was correct, NO DAMN WAY he said(T500 user) now, check how 'notchy' the wheel feels than before, and again, no way, you can feel it now, its not as smooth(she said)

so moving the sensor further from the magnet causes a more aggresive power delivery to the motor, keeping it parallel to the magnet ensured equal power delivery

to sum up here
motor turning faster in one direction to the other is due to the hall sensor alignment
and if its notchy, theres a good chance the magnet is now further from the sensor that it originally was

both of these issues can and will be caused by the glue on the shaft/rotor failing allowing the motor shaft to move forward and aft of its ideal position, moving the position of the magnet closer or further away. were talking MilliMetres here folks, not inches

id like to see if T500 users can get there wheel to be smoother by moving the sensor closer to the magnet some how.
im also wondering if a stronger magnet would allow for smoother wheel rotation on the TX/T300

hope this helps someone out future

peace

MM

 

[smasha]

I wonder if Thrustmaster revises their products or keeps producing them with the issues?

These wheels are around 600 (800 with pedals) aud,not cheap and for the many issues they have,for the price they are shithouse.

If you aren’t a well qualified handyman,then you are left with a 600 dollar piece of plastic and glue,oh,some metal as well.

I would love to hear some counter arguments because atm,there are literally shedloads of issues from googling these wheelsets on you tube or the web.

If I had a Thrusty wheel and it survived 5 years then I would praise them to the hilt but atm,they are like waiting for nan‘s lovely stew at lunch times as a kid and getting served tripe.

I have also noticed select people on you tube really blowing wind up their products,hmmmm

 

[asteroulis]

90% of T300 / TX problems are caused by overheating. This was adressed(kind of) with firmware 24 and after when forced cooling was introduced. Unfortunately a lot of people don't even read the manual when buying a new device, therefore don't really know how to properly take care and maintain its good use. So still, in 2020 there are people that don't use forced cooling.
Agreed, it should have been on by default by now and this is thrustmaster's fault. Because the bases are basically the same since launch, except some ground cables that you can see every now and then.

It's not a cheap wheel, but it's the most value for money FFB you can buy from a commercial wheel. And if one knows how to use it, then it's a wheel to be used for many years.

 

[640er]

90% of T300 / TX problems are caused by overheating. This was adressed(kind of) with firmware 24 and after when forced cooling was introduced. Unfortunately a lot of people don't even read the manual when buying a new device, therefore don't really know how to properly take care and maintain its good use. So still, in 2020 there are people that don't use forced cooling.
Agreed, it should have been on by default by now and this is thrustmaster's fault. Because the bases are basically the same since launch, except some ground cables that you can see every now and then.

It's not a cheap wheel, but it's the most value for money FFB you can buy from a commercial wheel. And if one knows how to use it, then it's a wheel to be used for many years.

Do you know when firmware 24 got applied? I am looking at a used T300 originally bought in 2017. It is about ~70€ cheaper than a new one. Don't which I should buy... Is it possible to upgrade the firmware myself?

 

[asteroulis]

I cannot remember exactly when it was released, but yes,you can and should upgrade the firmware yourself. Maybe the previous owner has already upgraded thw wheel. Current firmware is n. 30