Tx Wheel base Settings I found ideal, made better driver

[reshaderacer]

Updated, with slip effect lower, now does every car and more communicative across a lot of setups.

No more driving line! yay! And I can finally get away from the number 1 engine maps and use number 5.

I have been guilty though I actually feel no shame about it, about using FFB too high. And it was not until AMS2 that I discovered I could blend it in. This is not a weak nor strong profile, but its also strong enough and detailed enough. Checked with the graph in game on several tracks and should be good to go. Will probably improve your driving.

From another post I made on here. And being in the middle of things, you could probably dial down or turn up if you have something else as per what you may normally do. I.e maybe you decide 15% increments are better for increases, or 10%.

BUT like with anything - deviations, standardize them, if your wheel is worse or better, you know what you need to adjust, so if not too much better/worse use 10% if you don't like it....but maybe it works as-is, so YMMV (mileage/vary)... but also your change YMMV.


Lateral versus vertical: I am getting more greatness out of 70 vertical on that setting - huge 'feel' improvements and its not throwing anything off. Lateral still 50. Tx wheel and a shed-ton of more feedback and information from the car. Its providing [as per what I expect it does] a lot more forward movement information.

All settings

Game is already great at showing lateral, and of course forward if you allow for it. Even at 50 its not a complaint, but at 70 its way more apparent in your driving style versus what you expect - so you feel the propulsion/velocity. There's elevations, turns, bumps, etc, so I like sensing this in the wheel and accommodating it.

You probably won't regret it and nothing lost in trying it.

100 intensity, then 0, 0, 0

100 intensity (again for turning)
Then 3 min force (but maybe you like 5, in Rf2 I keep this at 2 though and others like it off; for this 'blend' think smooth coffee, its at 3 and present...but nothing is ever sticking its ugly head out),

20 understeer, vert 70, lat 50, steering rack 35 (tx is a good wheelbase not great but a positive-adequate; it can roll with some punches and so 35 is good and you will probably get a sense of the vert movement)

slip 15 (too high and it can affect the whole spectrum I think)

engine 60 (I do like to feel it in the wheel as per a motorbike and some cars I have driven, numb hands are a part of not "glamping" = camping with amenities)... if you do not put this up high you won't experience any engine feel to a decent degree and FYI at 60 its not overdone.

curb 40, shift 30, collision default at 200. Curbs should literally spaz you out - especially in the lower arms! lol ever tried going over a speed bump fast? No... it does not jump your arms, or any bumps fast - it unsettles your suspension potentially and rattles the underbody. So I like to accept simulation for that. But if you don't appreciate those things you can turn it down and it won't ruin your day.

On a tx wheel - my experience across all games, this and custom AMS2 - brilliant. I won't lie, I love it. And it goes across most cars, maybe the f90's you need to turn it up because those are a little too smooth, but apart from that, the weight and feel and detail and movement, etc as you would expect is there. And importantly it helps you drive rather than tries to impress you with jitters and whatnot, like in AMS2

 

[reshaderacer]

the update was

slip effect 5-10 (default is probably 10; its good to have but if you're racing well or hot lapping fine, then naturally its going to be of limited utility even if it then has the potential to get in the way),

under steer 25 (max, you may want a bit less but communication-back to your next input is key as no inertia is felt by sim racers)

vertical remains at 70

lateral remains at 50 (as these are ratio's of one another as much as they are stand-alone settings)

minimal force feedback for tx wheel, as with rfactor 2, I personally find 2(%?) is enough, so value is 2; and this also forms the basis for a lot of other settings as keeping things relative in terms of the center-feel among a few others things is important I think for determining your next inputs/adjustments.

with this setup I am able to correct most cars.

the v10 f1, I adjust upwards and downwards various clutch and preload settings, but for other cars tested, I have not adjusted anything. I own cars across most categories but not front wheel drives and basically all the tracks.

point being I think the ffb and communicative feedback to the next inputs is second to none, to start with from the devs anyway in ALL ffb in this game and now more so being tailored.

but this setup could also hinder some very, very good drivers. adjust per taste canned effects maybe

-- tx control panel - for raceroom and actually ams2, ac(c) and others, as always for those which are like this auto adjust,

- set range to 900 in panel,

- dampening at 100 (probably controlled in game anyway; but if you set it at 0 it will be too light for the above setup)

- Above dampening 100 - here> you may put it at 80 if you think its too heavy - dampening in tx control panel means higher makes it heavier: most games dampening will soften that value up or over ride it...for raceroom a value of 80 may be more to your liking thus retaining the parity of settings above...raceroom does not concern itself with dampening settings which is fine and is a global setting anyway. AMS2 does however... and in that game I roll with 100 and dampen to 50% with custom file

- Gain - 75 (default) You can set your gain to 100 IF you set it lower in game but may invalidate settings all over the place. The latest firmwares have fan on most of the time/afterwards but 100 is probably pushing it, yet many will tell you games by nature have to compress the signal; and it may be superior to do so (as long as it also remains that it does not clip)

- in game one may decide to change the steering rack setting to 0 if they like it that way as the devs have said its an unfinished feature but tx may fare the best with a low setting.

As always I have used for fine tuning brands hatch new, Audi RS 5 2020 dtm (new car) and preload at 200 in car setup. But feedback is great across the range, incl 90s f1's with adjusted clutch ramps (88+ iirc one or two notches from absolute top of range... but did not touch coast in that v10 at all; and did not do gears which may help reduce some of that excess power if maybe first was longer, nor do I remember about clutch plates, back suspension is more compliant though with just that because I may not have even changed it on the final iteration) and preload probably increased it, had some highly controllable and fast races/laps at imola with that.

So at brands you want to go down the hill at 3rd gear pushing later half, >> at straights one downshift, miss a turn for change, then 2 downshifts thats for major bends at straights in mid half of track, down to 2 cutting hard at second last turn picking up speed again, then 3rd onto the final straight and pushing all the way, so I am literally flying through there. Its usually cut down 1, then 2 on the track.

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For brands hatch I do not trail break. I am pretty sure Nigel Mansell doesn't either when he drove the rfactor 1 engine version. In leiu of that, I do what the gt3 racer fellow does (I have not driven on this track) and he reckons he barely breaks bar a turn or two, and thats the 2nd and 3rd turns; the rest he limits time on the breaks. Which means he coasts for most turns - I am sure people know how to drive I am just breaking it down to how and why I made these settings....

its some crazy-ass +/- good driving haha

and forgot to add, toe-in is a good thing to put up into the positive, from -.3 to +.3, but any way you want to set it up for stability, etc is fine;

you will also probably find that not too much needs to be done to it normally, maybe 1 notch to right for preload at 195, and toe in, if you really want suspension changes do them, but the car is great anyway you shake it. The more you stabilize it the less edge of your seat you can potentially make it around longer turns.

Of course no racing team would probably let you set it up like the test environment I did.

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So for that what I am looking for is front load feel on the wheel (thats not entirely present at default settings) and of course pushing briefly but hard on breaks, getting the squeal, then the bite, then the acceleration with the back end being compliant under load. Its all reproduced nicely. So this is what I mean for the FFB - when you stretch it/push it, the cars feel good/feedback. But it is true, some setups the car does NOT need to be as maneuverable I am just trying to go fast and slam on the breaks and at times trying to get back wheel spins/doughnuts; but those setups are fine for tracks mentioned. But if its too much, then soften the suspension - add 2 points to camber front and rear, and take one point off the rear suspensions bumps, then 1 point off each of the 3 (if thats not done already from that, from memory). Should be more planted, and more lateral grip.

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There is probably no better FFB/physics game just now I would say compared to the audi dtm 2020 (rs/similar) ACC probably, but I do not find it as engaging unless really pushing that game/racing.

 

[reshaderacer]

Latest, forgot to mention I keep it on 0 minimum force and 120 for turning force. Default is 125 so its usable too.

My attention to detail. Seemingly nonexistant.