Let's be clear about some things:
1) controller.JSON damping/friction is a calculated value output to the wheel, requires no extra energy from wheel's motor. It merely dampens the output signal, but doesn't give you any extra stiffness when the car is parked or barely rolling.
2) Wheel damping & spring are physical and the energy required are removed from the power the wheel has available for FFB. Wheel damping & spring give you the feeling of stiffness even when the game is providing zero FFB.
3) Wheel and controller.json damper/spring settings are independent and they don't know what each other are doing. Adjusting the damper in controller.JSON to 30% in hopes that it will only use 30% of the wheel's damper is not possible.
So if you have 100% damping enabled at the wheel, you either have to turn down the FFB on the wheel or you suffer hardware clipping(*). The hardware clipping occurs regardless of what the game is sending to the wheel. Damping/spring at the wheel also hides the FFB signal the game is providing at low/medium levels; in rF2, increasing "Steering torque sensitivity" in the controller.JSON file will magnify the midrange without changing the low & high levels.
Therefore, if you like the feel of damping/spring that the wheel provides when, say, the car is going slowly in a straight line or is parked, you should use as little as possible at the wheel, like only 10%-30%.
(*) On my CSWv2 there is a clutch or current override that brutally disengages FFB when hardware clipping occurs, so it really helped in understanding hardware clipping. On this wheel, if I use 100% spring & damper at the wheel, I can only use 50% FFB at the wheel. 10% spring & damper at the wheel allows 80% FFB at the wheel. Other wheels, like the Logitech, just limit the power the motor uses when the hardware clips.