What are the optimum brake temperatures for AMS2?

Bram Hengeveld

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I have been trying to playing around a bit with the brake ducts in Automobilista 2 and was wondering what the optimum temperatures are for the brakes.

Are these car specific or is there a safe range for all cars?
 
Depends on the car of course, but AFAIK (and somebody correct me if I'm mistaken) as long as you don't reach orange on the HUD in the heaviest braking zone you should be good. Orange is where you start losing brake efficiency. It should go juuust into yellow.

If it stays green in the heaviest braking zone or goes cold (blue) on long straights, you should close the ducts further.
 
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brake ducts can be a bit tricky. one thing a lot of new players to AMS2 do is think they are over heating because they shoot up really fast when you brake, but of course they go back down fast too. so lets say you brake, it shoots up to red for a moment but that is not really a big deal, the trick is to see where the temp is before you start braking. THIS IS NOT CANON so dont quote me on this but..anything around or below 350 when you start into a brake zone should be good, even a bit more. it is once you start having a starting brake temp of 400 that you may have problems..and be careful some tracks can have a slow build up of heat, like Imola, where every lap the brakes are just a bit hotter when you go into turn 1 and after 5 or 6 laps they may get so hot that it effects how you brake. If in you are worried about it you can go more toward the open side..50/40 will work on all tracks as far as i know at least with GT3..at Spa and tracks with long straights between braking zones you can go as low as you dare. of course one big off means the end of the race and unless you are at the razors edge with aliens i dont see the point in risking it.
 
brake ducts can be a bit tricky. one thing a lot of new players to AMS2 do is think they are over heating because they shoot up really fast when you brake, but of course they go back down fast too. so lets say you brake, it shoots up to red for a moment but that is not really a big deal, the trick is to see where the temp is before you start braking. THIS IS NOT CANON so dont quote me on this but..anything around or below 350 when you start into a brake zone should be good, even a bit more. it is once you start having a starting brake temp of 400 that you may have problems..and be careful some tracks can have a slow build up of heat, like Imola, where every lap the brakes are just a bit hotter when you go into turn 1 and after 5 or 6 laps they may get so hot that it effects how you brake. If in you are worried about it you can go more toward the open side..50/40 will work on all tracks as far as i know at least with GT3..at Spa and tracks with long straights between braking zones you can go as low as you dare. of course one big off means the end of the race and unless you are at the razors edge with aliens i dont see the point in risking it.
I would be very careful with this. One reason why people complain about spinning out under braking in AMS2 is because their front brakes are overheating (red) and then they fade immediately and the brake bias goes effectively far rearwards and causes an instant spin.
 
lets say you brake, it shoots up to red for a moment but that is not really a big deal, the trick is to see where the temp is before you start braking.
Yeah I think this is a good way of managing the brake cooling (ducts).
As long as they can be seen to cool down between braking zones its OK.

But I agree also that if the front brakes often goes into the red while the rears are staying relaxed in the green/slightly yellow then there is a possibility that the distributing of braking effect goes too much to the rear.
 
Brakes are an example of something that Reiza really does right. A balance of risk and reward that challenges the player to take a risk on keeping them more closed at the cost of risking a bad race ending wreck. And to my knowledge no way to game it by keeping them closed and just using engine braking to stop the car. Every setup option in the game should work on this same principle of being a risk vs reward to challenge players and give them something to work toward in the respect of being more consistent at the risk of making greater mistakes. A good example is how grip and down force is modeled with having more grip making the cars easier to drive but generally slower on straights. In fact AMS2 right now is one of if not the tightest game in the respect that simple tricks cant be used to influence lap times. The only real issue I see, and this is with GT3 because I am most familiar with that class, is being able to put too much over steer into cars making them behave unrealistic. The fix could be as simple as keeping TC above 4 making TC kick in if drivers have set up unrealistic cars for the purpose of Time Trials. You can argue that this is higher level of driving but I tend to think it is a cheep work around. It also messes up new drivers who go to TT and grab a setup thinking it will be a good setup only to find that it is a car that can only complete a lap without wrecking about 1 in every 10 laps. Also, on brakes, the only real way to know what you can get away with is to practice with the car and see if after 5 or 6 laps if you having issues with the brakes over heating. Typically, if you are hitting the brakes and spinning you need to set the bias forward for example from 57/63 to 60/40 front/rear. Be aware that every car has different parameters in this respect so it is not a one size fits all. Also too much forward bias causes the car to brake less or the further away from 50/50 means longer breaking. As for over heating. if they get too hot they seem to just take longer to stop, often leading to a wreck because you expected something different. One last thing too, when you practice, dont just hot lap practice different lines and most importantly get used to dealing with mistakes. For example, if you braked too late teach yourself not to force it just miss the apex. Dont let a messed up turn turn into a lost race.
 
also it seems if your brakes are over heating it causes you to spin..I never realized this until at Spielberg at turn 3 I kept noticing that after a few laps I would always over rotate going through that turn. Wolftree said that hot breaks can cause you to spin out and so I opened them up more and problem solved. so hot brakes can cause spin. but starting temps around 350 still seems safe but as stated before you really just have to practice..Also anyone watch the Nascar course of America race. Nice to see the pros are not much better than the sim drivers and turn 1 seems to get them too.
 
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