I know it would be a very specific peripheral, but there are several manufacturers that create specific and high end devices for sim racing, and I think there would be many users interested in it. Besides, it wouldn't be too hard nor expensive to make. The kind of peripheral I'm referring to is a single flappy paddle gear shift, which installs on the right of the steering wheel and that, unlike normal paddles, is fixed, much longer (following the contour of the wheel), and actuates on both directions (pull for gear up, and push for gear down). This kind of gear shift is very common in rally driving nowadays. It could have an adjustable desk clamp, so that you can use it with any model of steering wheel, simply by attaching it to your desk or cockpit's steering wheel tray and then adjust if exactly where you want in height and depth.
Why doesn't any company make a single rally flappy paddle gear shift?
- Thread starter Elaphe
- Start date
Maybe next year from Thrustmaster, rumours say that a bundle sequential shifter + handbrake will be produced with Sparco.
Considering that the TH8A already serves as sequential shifter I hope that this new product will be more rally specific...
BTW, some days ago on DrivingItalia I saw this:
http://www.drivingitalia.net/index.php?/forums/topic/77179-vendo-wrc-paddle-shifter/
Considering that the TH8A already serves as sequential shifter I hope that this new product will be more rally specific...
BTW, some days ago on DrivingItalia I saw this:
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Would you be willing to sell that? In that case, any idea of the price?
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Just had a look at some pics of the TS-PC Racer. Looks like all these newer Thrustmaster wheels share the same circular plate behind the steering wheel. Can't apply the same locking action I used on mine to relieve stress on the screws when pushing and pulling. Anyway, I came up with an alternative. Does something like this work for you? Allows you to screw on 4 bolts to your own mount. I checked out your rig. Seems like you are very handy with MDF, so maybe you can make a mount for this, ie. mounted to your rig, not the wheel. Let me know what you think or let me know if you have other ideas.
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Sure, that design would be much easier to install in my case. My idea is very basic but practical: two pieces of MDF making an angle of 90º, and one of them screwed from below to the horizontal table that holds the steering wheel. The paddle base would be screwed to the vertical piece of MDF. That would be very sturdy but the best of all is that I could move the whole set horizontally, vertically and in depth to place it exactly where I need. By the way, can you provide the length of the paddle? I don't know if I should make it a big longer, since my steering wheel is 32 cm.
By the way, have your noticed if it bends when pushing it on its ends? I have a friend who has a good 3D printer. What material or configuration should we use?
And could a spring be placed in between the buttons to add more resistance? Or wouldn't it work well?
Oh, thank you for everything.
By the way, have your noticed if it bends when pushing it on its ends? I have a friend who has a good 3D printer. What material or configuration should we use?
And could a spring be placed in between the buttons to add more resistance? Or wouldn't it work well?
Oh, thank you for everything.
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That steering wheel I'm using is 30 cm. I'll add another paddle that is 1cm longer (which should be just nice for 32 cm T500 setup) just to give people more options. Of course with your own mount, you can place it wherever you like.
The very top requires slightly more force than the rest because it does bend slightly but I don't find it an issue. Note that I printed mine with 25% infill. So, if you print with more infill, there might be less flex. I'd suggest either PLA or ABS, not PETG as the latter tends to have a bit of flex. Haven't tried any other materials as I'm pretty new to 3d printing.
I don't feel a spring is necessary. The buttons I'm using are quite clicky and feels just right. I've made it so there is no free play. The paddle sits in between the two buttons with no gaps. Don't use the washer that comes with the buttons. Your mileage with the feel may vary though depending on the tactility of the buttons. That being said, I'm keen to give magnets a try. So, there might be a future version that uses magnets.
Will let you know when I have the new files ready.
The very top requires slightly more force than the rest because it does bend slightly but I don't find it an issue. Note that I printed mine with 25% infill. So, if you print with more infill, there might be less flex. I'd suggest either PLA or ABS, not PETG as the latter tends to have a bit of flex. Haven't tried any other materials as I'm pretty new to 3d printing.
I don't feel a spring is necessary. The buttons I'm using are quite clicky and feels just right. I've made it so there is no free play. The paddle sits in between the two buttons with no gaps. Don't use the washer that comes with the buttons. Your mileage with the feel may vary though depending on the tactility of the buttons. That being said, I'm keen to give magnets a try. So, there might be a future version that uses magnets.
Will let you know when I have the new files ready.
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It was/is also used in F1. I know Schumacher used it when he drove. It allowed him to adjust things on the wheel while going up or down the box.
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Uploaded the new files. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2813974
Do you plan to use a USB controller or direct to the wheel? How I connect my sequential shifters can be seen in this video.
Anyway, do let us know how you go.
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I think I will use my own controller. It's better in case I change my steering wheel in the future. For my button box I bought this one:
https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B01IQTN08A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's very unexpensive and works well, but I don't know if there are more simple models without so many buttons. I also don't know if having two exact controllers on my PC would be a problem for the joy id order or for the games detecting them.
BTW, are these the exact model of buttons required?
https://www.amazon.es/Larcele-10x12...id=1520275606&sr=8-4&keywords=pulsadores&th=1
https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B01IQTN08A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's very unexpensive and works well, but I don't know if there are more simple models without so many buttons. I also don't know if having two exact controllers on my PC would be a problem for the joy id order or for the games detecting them.
BTW, are these the exact model of buttons required?
https://www.amazon.es/Larcele-10x12...id=1520275606&sr=8-4&keywords=pulsadores&th=1
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Haven't used JoyId before but it's very disappointing that there are all these console ported games that don't support multiple controllers.
I'm not sure about exact but size wise it's correct. Must be momentary, so if interruptor pulsador = momentary, then, all good
eg. https://www.amazon.com/PP-NEST-Pieces-Waterproof-Momentary-ANKG-01/dp/B074MN56W2
Looks the same as your link.
I'm not sure about exact but size wise it's correct. Must be momentary, so if interruptor pulsador = momentary, then, all good
eg. https://www.amazon.com/PP-NEST-Pieces-Waterproof-Momentary-ANKG-01/dp/B074MN56W2
Looks the same as your link.
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I'm only using PC games and the only problems I have found so far with multiple devices is with Dirt Rally. It's quite wayward and you have to be sure nothing is changed in your setup when you run it.
I've downloaded your files and I've been building my virtual stand in Tinkercad. Unfortunatelly, I do not have a good 3D model of a TS-PC Racer. Anyway, I have found some things to consider. First, the vertical piece of MDF should be inclined for the paddle to match the angle of the wheel rim, which is not 90º. Second, I have to be sure that the spokes of my deep dish steering wheel do not touch the box of the shifter. I will make a model with pvc using real dimensions and check it out with my setup.
I've downloaded your files and I've been building my virtual stand in Tinkercad. Unfortunatelly, I do not have a good 3D model of a TS-PC Racer. Anyway, I have found some things to consider. First, the vertical piece of MDF should be inclined for the paddle to match the angle of the wheel rim, which is not 90º. Second, I have to be sure that the spokes of my deep dish steering wheel do not touch the box of the shifter. I will make a model with pvc using real dimensions and check it out with my setup.
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