EA Sports WRC FFB Guide, Moza & Asetek Fix

EA Sports WRC FFB.jpg
The FFB settings in EA Sports WRC are simple, but one can tweak perfection, here is how. Also, find out how to fix FFB on Moza and Asetek wheels.

Image credit: EA Sports

In sim racing and racing games in general, the feeling behind the wheel is crucial to a fun experience. Therefore, it is critical one perfects their Force Feedback settings.

Luckily, the EA Sports WRC Force Feedback settings feel very pleasant from the get-go on most devices it seems. That being said, the game does lack a pair of mainstream wheel manufacturers on its supported wheel list. Both Asetek and Moza require some file editing to get FFB to work in EA Sports WRC. Find out how to fix the issue and all the relevant settings in our all-encompassing guide.

EA Sports WRC: No FFB on Moza or Asetek​

In its current state, many mainstream wheel manufacturers do not receive first party support in EA Sports WRC. In fact, any Moza or Asetek wheels will not provide Force Feedback in the game’s current state.


Thanks to previous experience with the Dirt Rally games however, the community has already found a fix. In future updates to the game, EA Sports and Codemasters are sure to patch in native support. But in the meantime, here is how to enable Force Feedback in EA Sports WRC with Moza and Asetek wheels.

  • Locate the file path: WRC/Content/input/Windows/devices
  • Open the “devices” file and add the following code to the second to last line – before </device_list>
Copy and paste this code for Moza device force feedback:
<device official=”false” type=”wheel” name=”moza_wheel_r16_r21″ id=”{0000346E-0000-0000-0000-504944564944}” priority=”100″ />
<device official=”false” type=”wheel” name=”moza_wheel_r9″ id=”{0002346E-0000-0000-0000-504944564944}” priority=”100″ />
<device official=”false” type=”wheel” name=”moza_wheel_r5″ id=”{0004346E-0000-0000-0000-504944564944}” priority=”100″ />
<device official=”false” type=”pedal” name=”moza_pedal_crp” id=”{0001346E-0000-0000-0000-504944564944}” priority=”100″ />
<device official=”false” type=”pedal” name=”moza_pedal_srp” id=”{0003346E-0000-0000-0000-504944564944}” priority=”100″ />


Copy and paste this code for Asetek wheelbase force feedback:
<device official=”false” type=”wheel” name=”Asetek Invicta Wheelbase” id=”{F3002433-0000-0000-0000-504944564944}” priority=”100″ />
<device official=”false” type=”wheel” name=”Asetek Tony Kanaan Wheelbase” id=”{F3062433-0000-0000-0000-504944564944}” priority=”100″ />
<device official=”false” type=”wheel” name=”Asetek La Prima Wheelbase” id=”{F3032433-0000-0000-0000-504944564944}” priority=”100″ />
<device official=”false” type=”pedal” name=”Asetek Forte Wheelbase” id=”{F3012433-0000-0000-0000-504944564944}” priority=”100″ />



Once you have included these lines of code into your EA Sports WRC device list file, you should get force feedback for Asetek and Moza devices.

Find Your Optimal Settings​

Now that EA Sports WRC recognises your wheel, it is time to get cracking with the Force Feedback settings. However, just before accessing the many sliders on offer, make sure to calibrate your device. Follow the steps the game asks and the rotation limits will fit. The game should force you to do this on first start up. But the process is also accessible on the main device screen.

20231031112227_1.jpg


In EA Sports WRC, there are far fewer Force Feedback settings to keep on track of than in other simulators. Much like Dirt Rally 2.0, they do not focus on overall strength, rather the individual aggression of different forces. Fancy additional Centre Force? Raise the slider. Prefer a wheel that breaks your wrists after a crash? The Collision slider is for you.

Ultimately, the slider arrangement is totally up to personal preference. For most driving situations, the standard settings of 100% all-round works very well and communicates what the car is doing. Here are the settings you will want to start off with.

Self Aligning Torque100
Wheel Friction100
Tyre Friction100
Suspension100
Tyre Slip100
Engine100
Collision100
Soft Lock100
Steering Centre ForceOn
Steering Centre Force Scale
100

As aforementioned, these figures may well need adjustment. There is no one-size-fits-all with wheel settings, especially sliders with such a tight focus. The Centering Force in particular is one that will see players either flock to one side or another of the slider.

What are your favourite EA Sports WRC Force Feedback settings? Let us know over on our Twitter @Overtake_gg or down in the comments below!
About author
Angus Martin
Motorsport gets my blood pumping more than anything else. Be it physical or virtual, I'm down to bang doors.

Comments

"In EA Sports WRC, there are far fewer Force Feedback settings to keep on track of than in other simulators"

In fact there are far more FFB settings (9 separate sliders) than in almost any other simulator and this article says almost nothing of value about any of them.
 
D
"In EA Sports WRC, there are far fewer Force Feedback settings to keep on track of than in other simulators"

In fact there are far more FFB settings (9 separate sliders) than in almost any other simulator and this article says almost nothing of value about any of them.
It is exact copy of Grid Legends Inputs assignment, FFB settings menu.
 
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If I saw this correctly, there is a choice of picking presets for many wheels on the market. have you yet to try it out. Changing naught felt OKish with the T500. It's nice to have the Rally School for some fiddling because as far as I can see you cannot pause the game and then access options on the go.
 
I do not have the game, but those FFB sliders are similar to many other "simcade" titles, and my quick FFB guide, at least for DD wheels, would be: leave Self alligning torque at 100, everything else at 0, since that's the only "real" force, the others are effects that should be already in SAT force if the physics correctly simulates suspensions and tires
 
I do not have the game, but those FFB sliders are similar to many other "simcade" titles, and my quick FFB guide, at least for DD wheels, would be: leave Self alligning torque at 100, everything else at 0, since that's the only "real" force, the others are effects that should be already in SAT force if the physics correctly simulates suspensions and tires
Wheel friction is, in my opinion, the only thing that should be set to 0, since it's just a static damper effect.

Tyre friction and suspension are quite nice. Sure, they should be part of SAT, but they are at least decently done and provide extra feedback about what's going on.
Tyre friction is a dynamic damper depending on the grip level and suspension gives vibrations dependent on the surface and little jolts when jumping etc.

Soft lock is also nice if you don't have it from your Wheelbase (Fanatec, Logitech, Thrustmaster).
Engine vibrations add to the immersion, I like them at very low settings.
 
Premium
Well I do have the game and after several hours of driving and testing I must say that after I got my DD2 set up properly in Fanalab (custom only since it doesn't recognize the game) I really like the way it drives. Triple screens look bad but then it will probably get better some day or when VR comes out it won't be necessary for me. Menus do work with Keyboard and Mouse but as noted earlier, not as easy as PC only games. All in all it is a nice first release and I have had some very nice gravel drives. The Acropolis Rally is challenging and different.

I'm running it with a 2080 and it works fine although not on all ultimate settings. Graphics are not the most important part for me but it looks nice and runs smooth enough for me.

Everyone has a different opinion about all these things but so far I find it worth the $45 so I can't complain and I do like the way it drives so far.

Could be much better in setting up the controls. However I did get my Fanatec DD2, Heusinkveld pedals, shifter and Handbrake working fine so I can't complain.

Just my thoughts.
 
Help - I'm on PC & T-300. I'm baffled about how to access the "FFB settings (9 separate sliders) " that some of you mention. All I seem to have access to is Device settings which show my wheel & pedals as recognized but no buttons to access any other settings. What should I be looking for in this "Not very intuitive" menu system. It's a disappointment so far.
 
For Moza R12:
The fix from Jimmy doesn't contain the R12, so I did it myself :)

Made from the manual inside the device list xml for R12 and the Aliexpress handbrake, if it's shows as "this" 游戏手柄 under Devices and Printers:

More accurate path to file for Steam:
Steam\steamapps\common\EA SPORTS WRC\WRC\Content\input\Windows\devices

EDIT: with the old code, it worked, but I couldn't map the menu navigation buttons to my wheel. The entries simply didn't exist.
With the new code, everything fully works!

old:
<device id="{0006346E-0000-0000-0000-504944564944}" name="Moza\_R12" priority="100" type="wheel" />
new:
<device priority="100" official="false" type="wheel" id="{0006346E-0000-0000-0000-504944564944}" name="moza\_wheel\_r12"/>

handbrake is okay like this, since you don't navigate menus with it:
<device id="{C219046D-0000-0000-0000-504944564944}" name="Aliexpress\_Handbrake" priority="50" type="handbrake" />

Source:
 
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Well I do have the game and after several hours of driving and testing I must say that after I got my DD2 set up properly in Fanalab (custom only since it doesn't recognize the game) I really like the way it drives. Triple screens look bad but then it will probably get better some day or when VR comes out it won't be necessary for me. Menus do work with Keyboard and Mouse but as noted earlier, not as easy as PC only games. All in all it is a nice first release and I have had some very nice gravel drives. The Acropolis Rally is challenging and different.

I'm running it with a 2080 and it works fine although not on all ultimate settings. Graphics are not the most important part for me but it looks nice and runs smooth enough for me.

Everyone has a different opinion about all these things but so far I find it worth the $45 so I can't complain and I do like the way it drives so far.

Could be much better in setting up the controls. However I did get my Fanatec DD2, Heusinkveld pedals, shifter and Handbrake working fine so I can't complain.

Just my thoughts.
How did you manage to get the heusinkveld handbrake working? saturation the minimum I can achieve is 6%. I have no problem with other games
 
Well I do have the game and after several hours of driving and testing I must say that after I got my DD2 set up properly in Fanalab (custom only since it doesn't recognize the game) I really like the way it drives. Triple screens look bad but then it will probably get better some day or when VR comes out it won't be necessary for me. Menus do work with Keyboard and Mouse but as noted earlier, not as easy as PC only games. All in all it is a nice first release and I have had some very nice gravel drives. The Acropolis Rally is challenging and different.

I'm running it with a 2080 and it works fine although not on all ultimate settings. Graphics are not the most important part for me but it looks nice and runs smooth enough for me.

Everyone has a different opinion about all these things but so far I find it worth the $45 so I can't complain and I do like the way it drives so far.

Could be much better in setting up the controls. However I did get my Fanatec DD2, Heusinkveld pedals, shifter and Handbrake working fine so I can't complain.

Just my thoughts.
Would you mind listing your dd2 settings and in game settings if you have the time. I have a DD1 and dont have a lot of time to fiddle with the settings atm.
 
Premium
How did you manage to get the heusinkveld handbrake working? saturation the minimum I can achieve is 6%. I have no problem with other games
Once I plugged it in it was recognized on the controller settings page. At that point I went into the edit device screen after selecting it. Had to go to advanced tab and set it as a "Handbrake" in the upper right corner. Then I went back to the bind tab and bound it as Handbrake which is partway down the list of options. I then clicked on it and went to the calibrate screen (simply pull back on it all the way and it calibrates to the full 100% movement). At that point if you go to the bind tab and it is bound to "x axis rotation" or whatever yours is then you should see 0% Deadzone and 100% Saturation.
Hope that helps. As I said before the controls setup on this is a bit minimal for PC based systems and doesn't always work the way you expect. I have a couple of DSD button boxes and it constantly wants me to Calibrate them! I finally marked them as a wheel and it stopped doing that??
 
Premium
Would you mind listing your dd2 settings and in game settings if you have the time. I have a DD1 and dont have a lot of time to fiddle with the settings atm.
Here are my settings for the DD2 Wheelbase and FYI I am using a OMP wheel model WRC which is 350mm wide. I use it on a Podium Hub.
In game: Minimal setup and haven't tried everything but just left everything as is with the exception of the Self Centering Force which I turned "OFF" (it seemed to return the wheel to the center when it reset car to road and the resulting full force movement was dangerous!)

So -In Game: everything is 100% with FeedBack = "ON"

Latest Fanatec Drivers and Fanalab V 1.69.7
FANALAB SETTINGS: You need to make and save a custom setup so that you can go back to it each time. The game is no recognized yet.
Sen = Auto
FFB= 35 - 40%
FFS=Linear
NDP= OFF
NFR= OFF
NIN= OFF
INT= 1
FEI=100
FOR= 100
SPR= 100
DPR= 100

These settings make it very drivable for me. Your experience may vary and also remember the size of the wheel matters in how it feels. If you are using a smaller wheel like 300mm then it will be quicker. I haven't tried to change everything so it can probably be made better but that is so much up to the individual that this is just a good start. Hope this helps.
 
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Help - I'm on PC & T-300. I'm baffled about how to access the "FFB settings (9 separate sliders) " that some of you mention. All I seem to have access to is Device settings which show my wheel & pedals as recognized but no buttons to access any other settings. What should I be looking for in this "Not very intuitive" menu system. It's a disappointment so far.

1. go to Options/Cotrol (on main screen, press "Triangle" button on wheel)
2. select Thrustmaster T300RS, press "circle button" on wheel(or press "Enter" on keyboard) (see attached pic, borrow from the aricle above)
3. it will shows Bindings/Advanced/Vibration menu
Enjoy :)

1698907886141.png


1698907831960.png
 
Once I plugged it in it was recognized on the controller settings page. At that point I went into the edit device screen after selecting it. Had to go to advanced tab and set it as a "Handbrake" in the upper right corner. Then I went back to the bind tab and bound it as Handbrake which is partway down the list of options. I then clicked on it and went to the calibrate screen (simply pull back on it all the way and it calibrates to the full 100% movement). At that point if you go to the bind tab and it is bound to "x axis rotation" or whatever yours is then you should see 0% Deadzone and 100% Saturation.
Hope that helps. As I said before the controls setup on this is a bit minimal for PC based systems and doesn't always work the way you expect. I have a couple of DSD button boxes and it constantly wants me to Calibrate them! I finally marked them as a wheel and it stopped doing that??
thank you
 
I do not have the game, but those FFB sliders are similar to many other "simcade" titles, and my quick FFB guide, at least for DD wheels, would be: leave Self alligning torque at 100, everything else at 0, since that's the only "real" force, the others are effects that should be already in SAT force if the physics correctly simulates suspensions and tires
Pardon my ignorance, but what do you mean by "SAT"?
 
Pardon my ignorance, but what do you mean by "SAT"?
Self Aligning Torque. It's what pushes the steering wheel into the straight center position.
Due to the caster angle, the front tyres want to roll in a straight line similar to the wheels of shopping carts, just way more complicated.

So if you hit a bump, it pushes the tyre, your steering wheel moves with it but after the bump, the tyre wants to become straight again.
So in theory, you don't need anything else, since everything comes together in the SAT.
But your physics engine needs to run an actual simulation of surface + geometry etc.

Little knowledge about SAT and FFB wheels:
It's simracing's biggest issue. In reality, you don't have an oscillating steering wheel but you have a lot of ffb in the center when going fast.
That's because both front tyres want to go straight.
But how do you simulate this with an electrical motor?
You basically need to push the wheel to 0° whenever it's not at 0°. But due to latencies, you'll never be able to give a strong push at +/- 1° from the center without overshooting to the other direction.

The only way would be an actual brake on the steering shaft, that disengages smoothly when leaving the center position.
Manufacturers try to do this with damping/friction/inertia, but all these are "always on".
And that would also kill the details in the center, which are still there in reality.

The best solution I've came across yet is called "speed dependent damping", which dampens the steering wheel around the center position more, the faster you go.
But this needs the wheelbase to know the speed, which isn't supported for all sims/games by all manufacturers.
For moza, you only have strength and starting speed.
Fanatec does it better with end speed strength, starting speed & end speed. But you need Fanalab to make it work.
 
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