10 Simucube Questions

[moogleslam]

After many hours of researching DD wheel bases (I have 51 models on my spreadsheet), I'm starting to lean toward Simucube and have a few questions, several of which are based on the differences I'm seeing on their website:

1. Only the Ultimate lists "Ultra Low Latency Mode", but I think the Sport and Pro also have this; it looks like it's a software feature available to all 3 bases? Can someone confirm?

2. Static Force Reduction = Yes for Sport & Pro, and the Ultimate lists Static Force Reduction = Yes, in detail adjustable. Is there actually a difference? If yes, what does "in detail adjustable" mean in the real world?

3. Are sustained/holding torque numbers available for the 3 bases anywhere?

4. Angle Sensor: 22 bit absolute (Sport & Pro) vs 24 bit hiperface (Ultimate). What does this mean in real terms? I'm guessing next to nothing?

5. Slew Rate: 4.8 (Sport), 8.0 (Pro), 9.5 (Ultimate). I suspect this is the real reason that most go with the Pro out of the three models. A big leap over the Sport, but the Ultimate is only a minor additional jump, and to many, not worth the huge price increase. I'm watching the Boosted Media video on the differences between the Sport & Pro as I write this. Anyone else who has tried both have opinions to share on slew rate/responsiveness (or anything else)?

6. Are there any other differences between the three that I haven't mentioned? (besides size/mounting/weight)

7. If I'm buying my buy once cry once Simucube base, I need to go cheap on a wheel for now. I want a formula style wheel, and the best cheap options I've found are the Simagic GT Neo for $289 or the BALKN Rev3 for $270. Any opinions on the best out of those two, or anything else at a similar price point that I could consider?

8. How do I mount those wheels on a Simucube base? I think I need the Simucube Quick Release Wheel side kit for the GT Neo - is it the same for the BALKN Rev3? Can someone confirm?

9. Do I need to buy any extra cables to connect/power these wheels? Am I plugging the cable into my PC directly, or into the base? Still a bit confused about this part....

10. Does the new 360Hz Simucube option in iRacing replace the need to use irFFB, or is it still worth running it?

Thanks!!!

 

[Michael Krone]

1. Yes, confirmed.
4. Means very little. Slightly higher resolution.
5. Ive played with this setting several times with the Sport and Pro. I cant for the life of me, figure out what it changes.
7. You could build one but of course you knew that.
8. You need the wheel side QR for any wheel you use. Both of those wheels look like they have the standard 6 hole 70mm pattern.
9. SC does not come with any passthrough USB ports (maybe the ultimate does but sport and pro do not) so it needs to go into the PC or usb hub. I use a USB port on the underside of my monitor.

 

[moogleslam]

Thanks for the reply, Michael, good info.

I've been working on my shopping list. I think this is what I need to be fully operational (am I missing anything?):

• Simucube 2 Pro
• Simucube Quick Release Wheel Side Kit
• Simagic GT Neo
• Simagic Maglink
• Simitek Direct Drive Wheel Base Mount*

*There's cheaper mounts for the DD, including Simucube's own one, but I have a Simitek rig, so want to keep with the aesthetic of it.

 

[stigs2cousin]

Instead of a cheap (most probably plastic) wheel that has not proven to stand the "Simucube´s Power ) how about a used Ascher F28?
They go around 300€ in our part of the worled and feature SC wireless.
I´ve bought mine a while ago and it has been flawless.
The battery last´s "forever".

 

[moogleslam]

Instead of a cheap (most probably plastic) wheel that has not proven to stand the "Simucube´s Power ) how about a used Ascher F28?
They go around 300€ in our part of the worled and feature SC wireless.
I´ve bought mine a while ago and it has been flawless.
The battery last´s "forever".

Hey, thanks for the reply. The GT Neo was definitely planned to be stepping stone to whatever my end game formula rim would be. I've watched a LOT of reviews of it, and everyone thinks it's incredible for the price point. Whether it stands the test of time/wear is indeed an unknown because it's quite new still.

The Ascher is definitely interesting if I can find a used one. I see only two have sold on eBay so far this year, one of them is a V1, and the other a V2, with the cheapest going for $400.... but I wouldn't need the separate Simucube Quick Release Wheel Side Kit or the Simagic Maglink, so the cost ends up being similar.... again, if I can find one used for around that same price. I do wonder if I might miss the extra features of the GT Neo; 2 thumb encoders, 4 encoders, and clutches.

What's the difference between the Ascher F28-SC V1 and F28-SC V2? They look identical. EDIT: Oh, I see it's the closed bottom, grips, and grip material.

Thanks!

 

[Leynad777]

5. Slew Rate: 4.8 (Sport), 8.0 (Pro), 9.5 (Ultimate). I suspect this is the real reason that most go with the Pro out of the three models. A big leap over the Sport, but the Ultimate is only a minor additional jump, and to many, not worth the huge price increase. I'm watching the Boosted Media video on the differences between the Sport & Pro as I write this. Anyone else who has tried both have opinions to share on slew rate/responsiveness (or anything else)?

Especially Boosted Media Will is using excessive amounts of dampening (40+%) and blocked me for pointing that out. A static effect that is basically slowing down the FFB, so dampening it. Even people like me who prefers FFB in the 12-13 Nm range, in-game-settings considered, can easily be overwhelmed with the peaks the SC2 Pro can do with low dampening rates. That's why many people, Will included, is using the static force reduction. Another slider to tame the base. I'm usually not running more than 17 Nm maximum output in the software and maybe 70% in-game. The slew rate is in Nm per ms and humans can't feel a couple of milliseconds in difference. The difference in FFB between wheels is far greater. For example I don't use my Ascher Formula V1 very often, because it's so rigid and small in size, I don't feel very secure handling the torque even I reduce it for that wheel a bit. I rather prefer the Turn Racing R305 with it's soft rubber-grips dampening the FFB a bit and give me more leverage to deal with the FFB. So I'm also slowing down the FFB with my wheel-choice and that's far more noticeable than lowering the slew rate even under 2. So for small sized formula wheels I would go for the Sport and also would switch to it probably without remorse. I've tried it once and felt great.

 

[simracingfanatic]

1. My SC2 Pro has Ultra Low Latency Mode.


5. I can feel a difference between the slew rates of 0-3.5. Beyond that, I can't really pick out any detailed differences. The other Simucube settings can also make it harder to differentiate between slew rate settings.
Back when I simraced competitively, I used the max slew rate setting (8.0). It really helped me drive on ragged edge of grip. I probably would have performed just as well using 6.0 or something, but I figured I'd max it out because I could.

However, I tend to use a lower slew rate now. Mainly because I'm not racing competitively now, but also because the cars I'm driving nowadays seem to do better with a lower rate.

Also, like @Leynad777 mentioned, different types of wheels will feel best with differing slew rates. It's very much a personal thing to adjust.


7. I just bought a Cube Controls F-Core from Microcenter and I'm really pleased with it. I immediately dropped my lap time by 2-tenths on a track & car combo* that I'm very familiar with and have been exclusively lapping on lately. My prior wheel was a wired Thrustmaster with an Acelith Formula mod, as well as custom-modified magnetic paddle shifters from SimRacingMachines. That Thrustmaster wheel is no slouch and performed really well.

However, I wanted another Formula wheel with multiple rotaries for when I drive modern F1 cars. I also wanted it to be wireless because I was slightly annoyed at having a cable rub against my leg.

*The car & track combo mentioned earlier didn't make use of the multiple rotary knobs. I believe the laptime difference was purely down to ergonomics.

Here's a link, in case you're interested. I highly recommend it.

Cube Controls F-CORE 2 (Black) - Micro Center

Get it now! Unlock your talent with F-CORE. This wheel has everything you need to enjoy the beauty of sim racing while living an exceptional driving experience. Featuring Q-CONN magnetic connection and USB/Bluetooth Dual Mode. Shifter paddle set in CFRP (carbon fiber reinforced polymer) and...

www.microcenter.com

8. Yeah, SC2 Wheel side Quick Release kit.

9. If you have a wired wheel, you'll need to run a usb extension cable from your PC to your steering shaft, and plug your wheel's USB cable into the other end.

I purchased a USB bluetooth dongle (TP-Link UB500) to pair with my Cube Controls F-Core.

Unfortunately for me, the wheel couldn't connect to the dongle (which is plugged into the PC) at a distance of ~3ft. So I plugged the dongle into the USB extension cable near my SC2's steering shaft and now I have a really good connection. So I think you'll need a USB extension cable, except if you purchase a wireless wheel that is specifically compatible with the SC2, like the Ascher Formula.