Cheers for detailed response and images. That's a real nice little rig you have going there, plenty of fun to be had with that and adding some tactile to it.
There are some things you should clarify regards the vibrations going into the floor. I will share some more on things to also consider regards tactile immersion.
Flooring:
If this is an apartment or upstairs then yes vibrations will travel into the floor and could be an issue.
If your cockpit is on a concrete floor or basement then vibration noise isn't so much an issue.
Isolators:
Rubber isolators, rubber layers or rubber pads help reduce the tactile energy leaking.
Their purpose is to also help maintain the vibrations where you want them.
You mention a possible height issue with installing the units to the seat.
Obviously, you want to avoid changing your 80/20 so I see buying 4 basic isolators as a good thing to do.
These will give you additional clearance to the floor my friend and solve that issue.
Buy These but
Compare the Price.
Tactile Placement:
If you install the tactile directly on, or in close proximation to the pedals then the tactile vibrations will easily be felt in them, simply because it is the first area or path the vibrations will travel. Less distance and less materials the tactile can flow into or has to flow through to get to the desired location then the more wattage and energy can escape. You may want to use a 3-4mm steel plate and some neoprene rubber again, about 3-4mm thick. This could help prevent pinging on the alu but will offer a small amount of resistance to maintain the tactile in the metal plate prior to the pedal/frame. Ebay will have these at not that much money.
I always encourage trying more than one way to install, so your welcome to share in future what you try, I enjoy the discussion and learning from peoples own feedback. So please update this thread with what you do. I am sure many others would also be considering tactile immersion on a budget.
Stereo Effects:
With close installation, you will likely improve the sense of feeling the Left/Right vibrations from Suspension based effects as these are the only effects to really provide stereo cues. So you want Suspension as an effect to offer the best low-end Hz the unit you buy can produce to help convey these effects. To do this with Dayton Pucks you are not really going to be able to achieve as good of a performance from the units low-end abilities to the mid range bass frequencies it will output for say other effects. You would likely have several effects using the same frequencies that feel best, this then could give them little-felt distinction to others.
Point to note, so often people look at wattage as a way to compare different units. It is not the wattage that really matters. It's the ability of the unit to deliver low bass frequencies with sufficient energy. A small unit at max wattage is not going to produce the low-end bass of a more capable unit with even say moderate wattage. Voice coil type transducers are rather efficient with wattage. Buttkickers are not, as they have to physically move heavier pistons and have minimum wattages to even start to vibrate.
I kinda chuckled as you even refer to the ADX as "huge" which in reality is nothing close to the output of the high-end units available. It's a great unit for the money by all means, kinda like your wheel it offers respectable performance. As a fun analogy, consider perhaps the Dayton Puck like a DF-GT, the ADX is more like a G29/T300. A BK Mini is akin to say a T500. A Buttkicker Advance is like a Fanatec V2.5 and the full-size Buttkicker LFE is like a Direct Drive wheel. This my own loose perception here but only as a way to show an example.
Installing:
Placing 4 units in corners on a rig is not essential nor is going to offer the best potential. Yet some think they have to represent the tires/wheels in this manner for Chassis Mode. If anything they are letting a good portion of the tactile energy leak to other frame sections it is not even going to be felt. Then they have to use much more wattage driving the tactile unit hard possibly then losing composure. 80/20 is easy to mount the tactile in different places but I suspect this is what you will find if comparing more direct installation to the 4 corner method.
My advice if approaching this in a cautious way and with a budget in mind.
Would be to have you buy for now one ADX, install a 3-4mm steel plate across the seat runners. Have the ADX centered in the middle. You could then also try switching it to a smaller metal plate having the tactile in the pedals. I would expect you to require more wattage for the seat as it will have more materials to travel through.
Bad Stereo Tactile:
Do not however, do what a lot of people do and run 2 units on a metal/wood cross section with both L/R units practically beside each other. This totally defeats the purpose of wanting to feel the STEREO directional bumps as both units will be mixing their vibrations into one surface going to both the L/R sides of the seat. For improved stereo, you want to have a direct installation to the L/R seat runners with individual installation plates. This way you are avoiding the L/R effects mix before even reaching their destination.
The question I can't answer and say what to you as a user would be best is if going with two units.
Would 1 in pedals and 1 in seat both as Extension Mode be better than having Stereo (Front Channels) in the pedals or seat?
In all honesty, some people prefer tactile in two body regions and feel this more immersive rather than feeling L/R stereo cues in just one body region. This is something the CM Vs EM thread tried to get peoples feedback on but failed immensely in doing so, as nobody bothered expressing in it.
Last point is that "Sim Shaker Wheels" is available as a free demo and cheaper to buy. Simvibe is not and obviously costs more also being more work to setup and configure. I personally have been testing with SSW and have found it possible to improve on over Simvibe for several effects. I do seek others willing to test files that I create for it so they too can feel improvements as the software is very much underrated or bypassed. Both however generate the tactile in very different ways.
Others are welcome to offer their own experiences or opinions. I just don't think 4x Dayton Puck is worth having on CM and spending a bit more even for 2 units would be better. Then with the intent to perhaps gradually have 2 amps and 4 of the better units than Pucks. However my own opinions are not by any means the last word.
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I really don't have any experience at all with shakers so I really don't have any idea how they will feel after I mount them.
