Buying advice please - Next Level v3 Motion Platform

I'm looking for some advice and thoughts of other owners or people with good knowledge of the product, please.

I always said I'd buy myself a motion simulator if I could afford one and had the room available. Well, that day may have arrived. I'm impressed by what I've seen of the Next Level v3 Motion Platform

This seems to meet all my criteria:

+ Limited space requirements, I don't have room for a huge sim rig but this seems compact enough to work.
+ Works with Oculus Rift VR, that fixed head position setting solution is impressive
+ Great support and regular updates from the developers
+ Available in the UK
+ Works with my current Thrustmaster wheel and accessories.
+ Sub £3k for the full setup, I'm not a pro racer I'm not looking for a practice simulator this is just for fun so the cost/fun balance has to be right.

So help me do the man maths! Is it worth it?

Is there another similar product I should also look at? It would need to be reasonably compact, work with VR, available in the UK without too much hassle and in the same £3-5K price range.

Is there anywhere I can try one or even better several of the systems in the UK?
 
Mascot's method is by far the best that I've seen. I have a modified version of that method. My rig is the GT1 but the premise is the same, it's just the dimensions of the brackets that are different to suit the different height between each frame. I bought some roofing brackets, L shaped and already drilled. I just countersunk the holes to allow a better fit for the bolt heads. I did have to cut one in half, too. It's all in my build log. But, if you can get ahold of the brackets that Mascot used, you're good to go. You will most likely need to file out the holes on the V3 mount, but that's easy and only a little time consuming. Again, Mascot's method is clean AF, do what he did.

Steve, you mean the Steve that accused ME of being the one that haemorrhaged his bank account?

:) :) :)
 
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ELI5: So I'm going to order two of the 100x50x5mm and then it's just a matter of drilling holes?
Yep!
It'll come mill finish and dirty to handle but a quick clean and longitudinal graining with fine wet 'n' dry or wire wool should be fine for an indoor environment. Mine still looks like this untreated a few months later, a pretty good match for the anodised finish of the P1:

fEd6R8P.jpg
 
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Firstly, I hate everyone in this thread because of your relentless attacks on my savings. Steve being the worst for letting me try his rig to the point I feel that without motion, the experience just isn’t complete.

With that said, I think it’s time to add a NLR V3 to the rig and finish it off proper.

For an engineering idiot, what is the least painful method of getting brackets for the P1 for a sunken mount? Basically, if I end up having to file and drill, we are probably looking at a fair amount of duct tape and globs of glue afterwards.

I noticed that the units haven’t been in stock for a while. Are we looking at a revision coming out soon or just a stocking issue?

Hi Rob,

I've got some aluminium angle left over so I'll cut a couple of 250mm lengths and send them up to you next week if you like. I may well have some spare fixings as well but if not I can let you know what I used. I won't drill the holes though as it's best you offer everything up yourself just in case there are slight differences with regards spacing. FWIW I used a slightly tweaked version of @Mascot 's perfect solution. Have a look back at #477 for pics etc.

A few tips.

1. Everything is fixed using M8's so over-size the holes you drill to M10. Just gives you a little bit of 'wiggle room' if you are slightly out in terms of spacing and line up.

2. Once you've securely mounted the brackets to the sides of the platform, apply some silicone spray between along the top of the P1 chassis and the underside of the brackets. Makes sliding that heavy platform in to position, to fix it in place, a hell of a lot easier with almost no risk of scratching.

3. I found that this procedure reduced the potential for error. Measure up thrice and drill the holes for mounting the brackets to the sides of the NLR V3 first. Don't worry about the holes at the top. Once done secure the brackets tightly to the platform and drop in to your rig. (See point 2) Once lined up on both sides you can easily measure and mark up the top holes to mount in to the channels of the P1. You want to ensure though that the distance between the hole centres, left bracket to right bracket, (or vice versa) is 540mm, which is the distance between the left and right slot centres on the P1. (Although definitely measure first in case of tolerance differences) Again, over-sizing the holes gives you some adjustment, should you be slightly out. Once happy, remove the brackets and drill away!

Drop me a PM if you want to.

Cheers,

Steve
 
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Hi Rob,

I've got some aluminium angle left over so I'll cut a couple of 250mm lengths and send them up to you next week if you like. I may well have some spare fixings as well but if not I can let you know what I used. I won't drill the holes though as it's best you offer everything up yourself just in case there are slight differences with regards spacing. FWIW I used a slightly tweaked version of @Mascot 's perfect solution. Have a look back at #477 for pics etc.

Couple of tips.

1. Everything is fixed using M8's so over-size the holes you drill to M10. Just gives you a little bit of 'wiggle room' if you are slightly out in terms of spacing and line up.

2. Once you've securely mounted the brackets to the sides of the platform, apply some silicone spray between along the top of the P1 chassis and the underside of the brackets. Makes sliding that heavy platform in to position, to fix it in place, a hell of a lot easier with almost no risk of scratching.

Drop me a PM if you want to.

Cheers,

Steve
Told you it was a Brotherhood!
Bravo @Steve D. Very generous.
:)
 
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Hi Rob,

I've got some aluminium angle left over so I'll cut a couple of 250mm lengths and send them up to you next week if you like. I may well have some spare fixings as well but if not I can let you know what I used. I won't drill the holes though as it's best you offer everything up yourself just in case there are slight differences with regards spacing. FWIW I used a slightly tweaked version of @Mascot 's perfect solution. Have a look back at #477 for pics etc.

A few tips.

1. Everything is fixed using M8's so over-size the holes you drill to M10. Just gives you a little bit of 'wiggle room' if you are slightly out in terms of spacing and line up.

2. Once you've securely mounted the brackets to the sides of the platform, apply some silicone spray between along the top of the P1 chassis and the underside of the brackets. Makes sliding that heavy platform in to position, to fix it in place, a hell of a lot easier with almost no risk of scratching.

3. I found that this procedure reduced the potential for error. Measure up thrice and drill the holes for mounting the brackets to the sides of the NLR V3 first. Don't worry about the holes at the top. Once done secure the brackets tightly to the platform and drop in to your rig. (See point 2) Once lined up on both sides you can easily measure and mark up the top holes to mount in to the channels of the P1. You want to ensure though that the distance between the hole centres, left bracket to right bracket, (or vice versa) is 540mm, which is the distance between the left and right slot centres on the P1. (Although definitely measure first in case of tolerance differences) Again, over-sizing the holes gives you some adjustment, should you be slightly out. Once happy, remove the brackets and drill away!

Drop me a PM if you want to.

Cheers,

Steve

PM dropped! Huge huge thanks Steve! and I'm going to print these instructions out so I can track them closely. So far *knock on wood* I've been able to avoid major mistake by being overly careful so I'll continue the trend. The rig dream is almost done.....

Told you it was a Brotherhood!
Bravo @Steve D. Very generous.
:)

This is one of the best communities I've ever come across. I'll do my best to contribute to the brotherhood. Let's be honest though, it's more of a Simlabs amica nostra :)
 
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Hi, anybody tried V3 with F1 2017?
I think of buying one but I could not find any review with any F1 game from Coddies. I know they are not actual sims but V3 supports those as well. I dont know if it is worth to buy. So I would appreciate if anyone can give an advice.
THX
Haluk
 
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F1 2017 would work as good as it's telemetry output would allow it to. The platform will work the same for all titles it supports. The various games do tend to have their own characteristics as to their telemetry however. I do not own the title so I cannot comment on the extent to which this is. But, everything that I do run on the platform seems to be very similar, which means, it's very good!
 
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I read the whole thread about NLR v3 but still cannot find any answer how it compares to 2DOF with 100mm actuators. Can any of you provide real life experience in this regard? I have Prosimu Simulator Two rig, which works fine, but saving some place and noise comfort seem to be advantageous but only if the motion cues (feeling) are the same or better
 
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F1 2017 would work as good as it's telemetry output would allow it to. The platform will work the same for all titles it supports. The various games do tend to have their own characteristics as to their telemetry however. I do not own the title so I cannot comment on the extent to which this is. But, everything that I do run on the platform seems to be very similar, which means, it's very good!
Thank you very much!
 
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Hi everyone, I'm looking at buying a NLR V3 but it's an open box return, hence B-grade and only has a 3 month warranty. Has anyone had any reliability issues with their own unit? Sorry I haven't had time to go through all 37 pages of the thread yet. I'll get there eventually. :)
 
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Has anyone had any reliability issues with their own unit?
Nope. Works always, never have had any issues.

If the qualification B grade is only because it is an open box I would do it. Maybe it was used for trade shows or send out to a reviewer? Do you buy it from a company or private person? If applicable does it come with the the orginal invoice?

Good luck with the buying process and the fun that comes with it!
 
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Hi everyone, I'm looking at buying a NLR V3 but it's an open box return, hence B-grade and only has a 3 month warranty. Has anyone had any reliability issues with their own unit? Sorry I haven't had time to go through all 37 pages of the thread yet. I'll get there eventually. :)

Nope, no problems with mine either, but I've only had it a few months. Reliability of these units does seem pretty good based purely on anecdotal evidence from various forum traffic. It's one of the reasons I went for it.
Does the unit you're considering represent a good saving over the new price? It's a risk/reward balance but I'd say three months is a good enough time to give it a good thrashing. Any inherent faults or imminent issues should hopefully manifest themselves during that period.
Where are you based?
 
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Nope. Works always, never have had any issues.

If the qualification B grade is only because it is an open box I would do it. Maybe it was used for trade shows or send out to a reviewer? Do you buy it from a company or private person? If applicable does it come with the the orginal invoice?

Good luck with the buying process and the fun that comes with it!

Hi, thanks for your reply. It's a reputable company and they say it's an unwanted, open box return. I'm sorely tempted. I've got the Playset Evolution and I'm told there's an adapter kit? It'd be the finishing touch to my VR setup. It's a big chunk of dosh but when I read what everyone is saying about it I think I hear the sound of inevitability.
 
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Nope, no problems with mine either, but I've only had it a few months. Reliability of these units does seem pretty good based purely on anecdotal evidence from various forum traffic. It's one of the reasons I went for it.
Does the unit you're considering represent a good saving over the new price? It's a risk/reward balance but I'd say three months is a good enough time to give it a good thrashing. Any inherent faults or imminent issues should hopefully manifest themselves during that period.
Where are you based?

Hi, thanks for your reply. I'm in the UK.
I've just been pointed at this thread today by a helpful chap at the company that manufactures the NLR V3. It does eem to get enthusiastic feedback.
I saw a video of a guy who bolted his Playseat to a board and mounted the whole thing on the V3. He reckoned it was no problem for it although some commented that it would stress the actuators too much. I'll have to go back for an update.
It's about a 20% saving. I wondered if they'd go for a 20% reduction in the warranty period to match. ;-)
 
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Hi, thanks for your reply. I'm in the UK.
I've just been pointed at this thread today by a helpful chap at the company that manufactures the NLR V3. It does eem to get enthusiastic feedback.
I saw a video of a guy who bolted his Playseat to a board and mounted the whole thing on the V3. He reckoned it was no problem for it although some commented that it would stress the actuators too much. I'll have to go back for an update.
It's about a 20% saving. I wondered if they'd go for a 20% reduction in the warranty period to match. ;-)
Good to know that Next Level are monitoring this thread. Hello chaps!
 
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Could be the setup but it looks as though it’s not reacting at all to smaller bumps and only big swings. Surely also that is all wrong on the centre of mass?!

Personally I wouldn’t put the whole rig on something not designed for it with a large lever point that greatly increases actual applied load and whoever that is falsely thinks it can hold 150kg when it’s actually 130kg.
 
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