DiRT Rally DiRT Rally Thrustmaster T500RS Settings

[Oscar Hardwick]

Dear people who think "Dirt Rally's force feedback and steering is rubbish"

Go to google and make sure you respective wheel is set up properly in the profiler.

Now set in game FFB

• Vibration Strength 30%
• Wheel Strength 100%
• Wheel Weight 20%

Wheel Options

• ALL DEADZONES TO ZERO (unless your brake pedal spikes)
• ALL SATURATION SET TO 100%
• Steering Linearity -1 (This is very much personal preferance. Smaller number = less immediate steering response. Larger number = more immediate steering response)

Run whatever rotation you want at your wheel. Seems the game limits it so 400 wont be 400 but for more points of input run a higher rotation. That is not yet tested so I am not 100% sure but it wont hurt to try.

I am running a T500RS at 400deg rotation. The above makes this game REALLY work and function.

The above settings should also apply to at minimum any Thrustmaster or Logitech wheel. I haven't tested outside of that but it covers most people.

 

[Ole Marius Myrvold]

Nope, Sorry Oscar - still only get feedback, when I'm landing from jumps.

 

[Oscar Hardwick]

Nope, Sorry Oscar - still only get feedback, when I'm landing from jumps.

Which wheel do you have. What settings are in the profiler. That is an issue on your end at the wheel software itself, not an issue with the game itself.

 

[Ole Marius Myrvold]

Which wheel do you have. What settings are in the profiler. That is an issue on your end at the wheel software itself, not an issue with the game itself.

G27.

Overall Effects 107%
Spring Effect 0%
Damper Effect 0%

Center Spring Enabled - 100%
Allowed game to Adjust settings.

That's what I set up for iRacing, and it works well on every single other game out there as well

 

[Oscar Hardwick]

Try turning off the center spring.

If that doesn't work I am bemused as to the issue (maybe a bug) as people with those same settings (minus the center spring) have the ffb working just fine in game.

 

[Ole Marius Myrvold]

Ye, that helped. It's far from good (imo), as I still struggle to get a sense of what's happening, but it is much better. Now I can feel that there at least is an effort to give feedback!

Thanks!

 

[Lasse Ougaard]

I would recomment just keeping the centering spring off, completely. It usually kills the FFB-feel in any sim.

 

[Ole Marius Myrvold]

I would recomment just keeping the centering spring off, completely. It usually kills the FFB-feel in any sim.

Heh, the "o holy G27 FFB guide" from the iRacing forums "back in the day" really stressed the importance of having it on!

You learn something new every day I guess!

 

[Oscar Hardwick]

iRacing forums

iRacing forum information is most likely invalid information.

 

[William Levesque]

Never saw a proper iRacing FFB post recommending centering spring.... :/

 

[Ole Marius Myrvold]

Never saw a proper iRacing FFB post recommending centering spring.... :/

Maybe I just F'ed that point of the guide up then! That wouldn't be the first, nor the last time

 

[Ville-Samuli Mutanen]

Dear people who think "Dirt Rally's force feedback and steering is rubbish"

Go to google and make sure you respective wheel is set up properly in the profiler.

Now set in game FFB :

- Vibration Strength 30%
- Wheel Strength 100%
- Wheel Weight 20%

Wheel Options :

ALL DEADZONES TO ZERO (unless your brake pedal spikes)

ALL SATURATION SET TO 100%

- Steering Linearity -1
(This is very much personal preferance. Smaller number = less immediate steering response. Larger number = more immediate steering response)



Run whatever rotation you want at your wheel. Seems the game limits it so 400 wont be 400 but for more points of input run a higher rotation. That is not yet tested so I am not 100% sure but it wont hurt to try.

I am running a T500RS at 400deg rotation. The above makes this game REALLY work and function.

The above settings should also apply to at minimum any Thrustmaster or Logitech wheel. I haven't tested outside of that but it covers most people.

This is really weird.

I don't have any of these settings in game. I'm starting to think its because I'm driving with MMOS DD-wheel. It would make sense if the game think my device as somekind of pad or some non-wheel... :/

 

[Keith_G]

Tried your settings and they are much better. I am using a fanatec V2 wheel and pedals and my settings are as follows;
Actual on wheel settings:
Sen 400, FF 100, Force 140, with everything else set to OFF.
Game Settings:
Wheel Settings -
All Saturations set to 100%, Linearity 2, all Dead Zones set to 0%
Vibration & Feedback Settings-
Vibration strength 90%, Wheel Strength 100%, Wheel Weight 20% (30% also works but feels a bit heavier)

I'm sure this can be improved but for now it feels pretty good. When i am on gravel and going fairly straight it seems very floaty like I'm not connected to the road but when I go around sharp corners the feed back is pretty good. Snow and ice feel pretty good so far.

 

[Oscar Hardwick]

I don't have any of these settings in game. I'm starting to think its because I'm driving with MMOS DD-wheel. It would make sense if the game think my device as somekind of pad or some non-wheel... :/

Sounds like it's probably the issue. I honestly don't know how to fix it though :/

 

[Skazz]

just for information: The T300 has a proper preset in game, so the menu functions work on wheel. It wasn't listed (unlike the TX) but is supported.

I tried my usual Codies settings (wheel on 900 degrees, 60% steering saturation, linearity on default, no deadzones) and moved around the FFB (ended up with 50% vibration, 100% force, 0% weight) but still had muted center feel. Centering forces seem to increase with wheel deflection, and road surface detail was pretty much nonexistent while driving normally. I also only got the vibration feel of travelling over loose gravel when the wheel was offcenter, as if there's a huge center deadzone. And setting vibration above 50% seemed to bug out and gave me even less information.

I'll have a go with setting the satuation to 100% and altering linearity when I next have time, see if that helps the force deadzone.

 

[Oscar Hardwick]

@Skazz

Try the wheel on 450-500 degrees and then use 100% saturation.

In your profiler set overall force to 100%

Set the constant and periodic to 80% and make sure everything else is off.

Also add 20% weight or so to the in game ffb.

All of that should help the middle of the wheel properly react.

 

[Ville-Samuli Mutanen]

Can anyone of you who has got it working, to capture some video where you crawl through the in-game controller setup? I would be happy to see how it should look like..

Edit: Forget it. Seen already from the ISR first look.

 

[Skazz]

@Skazz
Try the wheel on 450-500 degrees and then use 100% saturation.
In your profiler set overall force to 100%
Set the constant and periodic to 80% and make sure everything else is off.
Also add 20% weight or so to the in game ffb.
All of that should help the middle of the wheel properly react.

I'll try that, thanks. I actually have my T300 and T500 sitting next to each other right now, so I'll be comparing/contrasting how they feel as well (when I get some time).

Not sure about the wheel weight, though. I like a very light and nimble rally wheel, and I assume wheel weight is purely damping.

 

[Blkout]

The best settings I've found for my Fanatec CSW v2 have been:

In game:

Vibration Strength 30%
Wheel Strength 100%
Wheel Weight 10% (any higher and the wheel just feels numb and slow to respond)
All deadzones set to 0
Steering Saturation set to 100%
Steering Linearity +3

Fanatec Tuning Menu:

Sens: 310 ( I use this on all Codemaster games)

 

[Flammenjc]

Never saw a proper iRacing FFB post recommending centering spring.... :/

But by default, the fact you never saw it doesn't exclude the fact it probably did happen.

I mean these people think iRacing is realistic and models tyre wear, on that basis I'd go out and say it's entirely probable that people are giving out completely bogus ffb information.