Fanatec Clubsport V1 hall sensor problem, and my (possible) solution

Update: After lots of messing around the results were not good, so i bought Leo Bodnar LC-USB board, 3 to 4 LC converter and converted pedals to Leo Bodnar's electronics. Works like a charm.
Used this 3D print tutorial and models to mount the board, and this reddit thread to figure out how to use Fanatec HE sensors with Leo Bodnar electronics. After that i just run the calibrating program and they work like a charm. Hope this helps someone.
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So, if you have V1's there is a good chance your gas and clutch pedals might start flickering (or so say people who complain about it on the internet), not going to 100% and be very unreliable. I looked across the internets, and not much help was find. People swapped pcb boards and the sensors with Leo Bodnar ones, or just gave up on them. I decided to try one thing that wasn't suggested, to recharge the magnets with some neodymium ones i had at home, just rubbed the ones on the pedals, and it worked. Pedals are smooth as butter, no flickering, go to 100% and work great. I don't know how long will it last, but so far so good.
I would like to see if it's just my pedals or it can be applied on others with similar problems.
 
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So, if you have V1's there is a good chance your gas and clutch pedals might start flickering (or so say people who complain about it on the internet), not going to 100% and be very unreliable. I looked across the internets, and not much help was find. People swapped pcb boards and the sensors with Leo Bodnar ones, or just gave up on them. I decided to try one thing that wasn't suggested, to recharge the magnets with some neodymium ones i had at home, just rubbed the ones on the pedals, and it worked. Pedals are smooth as butter, no flickering, go to 100% and work great. I don't know how long will it last, but so far so good.
I would like to see if it's just my pedals or it can be applied on others with similar problems.
worked for me, thanks a lot for the tip!
 

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