FFB settings (G27)

[Nik Babin]

Hi everyone!
Hope you are doing well,

I've just installed ACC and found huge dissapointment regarding FFB. I cant feel any front grip. almost no FFB at accelerations and braking, Comparing with AC its night and day. I can feel full FFB and weight transfer in AC, I can go with car on the limits of sliding. In ACC everything is opposite, numb and lazy feedback. Even the track surface is flat, not bumpy at all.
I'm using @RasmusP LUT (recommended) becasue default FFB has huge deadzone with my G27.

Here are my in-game and profiler settings.

P/S In AC when I click drive and standing still in the pits the wheel has some resistance when I'm turing it. But in ACC absolutely nothing, only when I go over 3-5km/h its starts to have the resistance.

Looking forward to hearing some ideas of this problem.

 

[cpt_gandy]

50 gain is to low, try between 90 and 100. At 50 gain with my T300 there is almost no ffb

 

[cpt_gandy]

Just to add a vid to it, Its worth a watch.

 

[RasmusP]

Hi everyone!
Hope you are doing well,

I've just installed ACC and found huge dissapointment regarding FFB. I cant feel any front grip. almost no FFB at accelerations and braking, Comparing with AC its night and day. I can feel full FFB and weight transfer in AC, I can go with car on the limits of sliding. In ACC everything is opposite, numb and lazy feedback. Even the track surface is flat, not bumpy at all.
I'm using @RasmusP LUT (recommended) becasue default FFB has huge deadzone with my G27.

Here are my in-game and profiler settings.

P/S In AC when I click drive and standing still in the pits the wheel has some resistance when I'm turing it. But in ACC absolutely nothing, only when I go over 3-5km/h its starts to have the resistance.

Looking forward to hearing some ideas of this problem.

Can't help you with the general feeling, as I wrote you in the pm but seeing your Screenshots now:
The standing still resistance is the damper ffb channel. You have put it to 0 in the Logitech software.
Put it back to 100 and the standing still resistance should be there again

50 gain is to low, try between 90 and 100. At 50 gain with my T300 there is almost no ffb

In theory you'd be right but not in this case but you couldn't really know.
50% is due to using my "recommended" LUT. It boosts the ffb back to normal level. I've found that I could create a smoother dead zone removal by doing this.
So in theory he's using 100% gain.
I've told him to try the "normal" LUT for acc, where the gain would be set to 100% like you said

Just to add a vid to it, Its worth a watch.

Gonna have a look after dinner, thanks for the link!

 

[Nik Babin]

Can't help you with the general feeling, as I wrote you in the pm but seeing your Screenshots now:
The standing still resistance is the damper ffb channel. You have put it to 0 in the Logitech software.
Put it back to 100 and the standing still resistance should be there again

In theory you'd be right but not in this case but you couldn't really know.
50% is due to using my "recommended" LUT. It boosts the ffb back to normal level. I've found that I could create a smoother dead zone removal by doing this.
So in theory he's using 100% gain.
I've told him to try the "normal" LUT for acc, where the gain would be set to 100% like you said

Gonna have a look after dinner, thanks for the link!

Damper FFB inthe profiler does affect only when car standing, right? By the main problem is front grip.
I tried normal center lut, same effect.

 

[RasmusP]

Damper FFB inthe profiler does affect only when car standing, right

Yes.
And maybe the gyro-effect/dynamic dampening is going through that ffb channel too but I'm not sure...
Read both opinions. But gyro/dynamic dampening isn't really important to feel the car more. It only calms the wheel a bit on fast straights so lots of people disable it anyway.

 

[Case_]

Dynamic damper should not be using the damper forces, as far as I am aware. So while setting the wheel damper back to its default 100% is a perfectly safe and advisable action, it should not have an effect on the dynamic damper.

 

[Ngbaka]

50 gain is to low, try between 90 and 100. At 50 gain with my T300 there is almost no ffb

HE is using only 50 because of the guide regarding LUT , in here : https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=1958400217

The Lut configuration is changing already the ffb gain values.

I have a g27 as well .

Looking forward to hearing some ideas of this problem.

Have you managed to sort it out ? If so can you reply to me with the values ( including the lut ones ) ?

Thanks

 

[PickABetterUsername01]

HE is using only 50 because of the guide regarding LUT , in here : https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=1958400217

The Lut configuration is changing already the ffb gain values.

I have a g27 as well .



Have you managed to sort it out ? If so can you reply to me with the values ( including the lut ones ) ?

Thanks

Aren't you supposed to download wheelcheck and create a LUT yourself?

I have a G29 and use 98~100% gain with LUT.

 

[RasmusP]

Have you managed to sort it out ? If so can you reply to me with the values ( including the lut ones ) ?

Thanks

No he didn't. We tried a lot but he bought a t300 now. And still doesn't really like the ffb in acc :/

Aren't you supposed to download wheelcheck and create a LUT yourself?

I have a G29 and use 98~100% gain with LUT.

No, just no.
2 totally different and not comparable things.

My Logitech LUTs don't change the linearity of the wheel at all. They are only like a curved, smooth minimum force.

This wheelcheck created LUT has 2 problems:
1. It pushes the wheel with a short push of ffb and then measures how far the wheel turns before coming to stand still.
Nobody knows if the internal resistance of the wheels is really linear.
Ffb linearity is about how linear the strength of the motors will feel in your hands when the ffb increases.
Not how far the wheel swings when you push it.

I tried this wheelcheck LUT a lot of times. Always the same result: feels completely awful!

2. The creator of the LUT creator tool never touched a Logitech wheel!
I searched a lot of about this topic and in a few posts he said that he liked the coding and engineering behind it but he never tried it with a Logitech wheel.

In comparison I've read and tested with LUTs for about 2 months before creating my own LUTs for my own g27 and the driving force gt of a friend.

After I tweaked it until I didn't make changes for 2 weeks, I uploaded my different LUTs.
G25 ans g29 users said it was working superb for them too so I added both wheels to the download title.

But as I said, my LUTs only implement a smoothed minimum force and after the first 20% of ffb, the LUT is a straight line, just like the default ffb.

 

[thierry_roldan]

I have the exact same problem and have come to the conclusion that my g27 is the problem. I guess the sim is too 'high end' for this wheel. Rf2 and AC feel awesome (i can actually find the limit no prob and push) whereas in acc i cant feel jack s***. I also have custom lut file. Tried with it, without it, nothing makes the game feel nice. It feels lazy, unresponsive and unrealistic.
If you find a solution plz share!! If not, I guess acc will have to wait until i upgrade my hardware.
Cheers

 

[RasmusP]

Throw away the LUTs, 100% all 3 sliders in the g27 profiler, 900 degrees.
Ingame 900 degrees too, 100% gain, 13% min force, 50% dynamic dampening.

This is what I used in January 2019.

The try different Hz. Maybe the g27 doesn't respond well to some frequencies?

Sadly I only drove acc with my g27 before the big update happened but the ffb should be the same, just more setting available.
Also LUT option wasn't available in acc back then so I couldn't really test my own AC LUTs...

My g27 is stuffed away at my parent's house. Maybe one day I'll plug it in again just to create good settings for the community...

Anyway, these settings should drive well. Try the jaguar at zolder. That's what I drove last with my g27.

And really test this frequency setting.. It should be the only thing that's actually new since I drove last..

 

[manu68]

I use the LUT from Rasmus both for Assettto corsa ans ACC.
I am satisfied with it for my Logitech G25, but of course all is matter of personal preferences

I have currently for ACC
Gain 80%
Minimum force 3% (should try more)
Dynamic damping 75% (should try 50%)
Road effects 10%
frequency 222 hz

 

[PickABetterUsername01]

No he didn't. We tried a lot but he bought a t300 now. And still doesn't really like the ffb in acc :/

No, just no.
2 totally different and not comparable things.

My Logitech LUTs don't change the linearity of the wheel at all. They are only like a curved, smooth minimum force.

This wheelcheck created LUT has 2 problems:
1. It pushes the wheel with a short push of ffb and then measures how far the wheel turns before coming to stand still.
Nobody knows if the internal resistance of the wheels is really linear.
Ffb linearity is about how linear the strength of the motors will feel in your hands when the ffb increases.
Not how far the wheel swings when you push it.

I tried this wheelcheck LUT a lot of times. Always the same result: feels completely awful!

2. The creator of the LUT creator tool never touched a Logitech wheel!
I searched a lot of about this topic and in a few posts he said that he liked the coding and engineering behind it but he never tried it with a Logitech wheel.

In comparison I've read and tested with LUTs for about 2 months before creating my own LUTs for my own g27 and the driving force gt of a friend.

After I tweaked it until I didn't make changes for 2 weeks, I uploaded my different LUTs.
G25 ans g29 users said it was working superb for them too so I added both wheels to the download title.

But as I said, my LUTs only implement a smoothed minimum force and after the first 20% of ffb, the LUT is a straight line, just like the default ffb.

So I gave it a try following this guide https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=1958400217

With the AMG, I'm getting a lot of rattling on straights at high speed, no other cars have this problem, do you know why that happens?

 

[RasmusP]

Only with the amg? That's pretty strange...
Sadly I don't really have a clue. What do you mean with rattling though:
- Vibrations that make noises
- shaking left and right

You could try to replace the "recommended" LUT with the "normal center" LUT.
It's less tight around the center, should introduce less rattling, shaking etc and it also doesn't use 50% gain and scales it back up with lut but instead the normal center lut just uses 100% gain from the game and doesn't scale anything.

Might work better. As I said I sadly can't test this on my own. That steam guy just told me it would work very nicely and asked if he could write a guide based on my guide

 

[PickABetterUsername01]

Only with the amg? That's pretty strange...
Sadly I don't really have a clue. What do you mean with rattling though:
- Vibrations that make noises
- shaking left and right

You could try to replace the "recommended" LUT with the "normal center" LUT.
It's less tight around the center, should introduce less rattling, shaking etc and it also doesn't use 50% gain and scales it back up with lut but instead the normal center lut just uses 100% gain from the game and doesn't scale anything.

Might work better. As I said I sadly can't test this on my own. That steam guy just told me it would work very nicely and asked if he could write a guide based on my guide

It's a lot of vibrations. I tried that other LUT and it's the same thing. I tried to go back to my old lut(generated with wheelcheck) to compare but it's completely dead lol, absolutely no FFB at all, pretty weird.

 

[Deflekted]

@RasmusP using your settings (current recommended) on my g27 instantly gave me 2 seconds on zolder and completely changed the cars I enjoy most from mid engine to front. Thanks!

Inserting settings for other G27 users to copy and hopefully have similar luck.
https://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/rasmusps-lut-guide-for-g27-29-and-dfgt.16799/