g 25 off center

hi my problem is that when i race and bumpp or collide with a car or a fence my wheel will be off center maybe 5 degree but after next collision 10 degrees so after a race w 20 laps its almost 30-40 degrees off center and always to the left. my wheel works ok in GTR2 RACE 07 FORMULA TRUCK.
so is it som kind of fault in AC now because i havent noticed this before.
 
No, I am not sure, but I referred it as a possibility. My G27 was 2 months old when it started happening, but it had the same behavior in other games as well and could not calibrate to the center. Fortunately, logitech replaced my defective wheel with a G29.
 
AC and iRacing both allow front suspension damage that'll affect the center-point of your steering wheel, don't know about other games. Think of it as bending the steering arm, the length changes so you have to turn the steering wheel to make the front wheels point forward again.
 
thx stereo for trying to help me

im ok with that but when i press exit and are in the menu my wheel dont center, same if i start new race with another car wheel is still off center.
if i am qualifying and my wheel is off center i can pit in then unplug g 25 then it recenters but i have no force feed.
 
thx stereo for trying to help me

im ok with that but when i press exit and are in the menu my wheel dont center, same if i start new race with another car wheel is still off center.
if i am qualifying and my wheel is off center i can pit in then unplug g 25 then it recenters but i have no force feed.

That sounds exactly like what happened to my G27 when the optical encoder wheel cracked. Not sure why it doesn't do it in other sims though....
 
thx stereo for trying to help me

im ok with that but when i press exit and are in the menu my wheel dont center, same if i start new race with another car wheel is still off center.
if i am qualifying and my wheel is off center i can pit in then unplug g 25 then it recenters but i have no force feed.
The first time you enter the game menu with the wheel plugged in, the wheel will be locked to center position. Then when you get in a race or practice and return to menu, the wheel will be loose. Meaning there's no force holding it and it spins freely. That isn't a hardware problem, is just the way the wheel is controlled by the game. But when you enter back in the race/practice (acs.exe) the wheel will regain its force. But for example if in the menu you put the wheel at 90º, then when you enter acs.exe it will remain at 90º with the car tyres turned in that direction. This isn't a hardware problem, nor a software one. At least for me is already intuition to keep the steering wheel centered or even when I enter acs.exe but still in the in-game menu (setup/info screen), I can re-center the wheel manually before pressing the drive button to control the car.
 
The first time you enter the game menu with the wheel plugged in, the wheel will be locked to center position. Then when you get in a race or practice and return to menu, the wheel will be loose. Meaning there's no force holding it and it spins freely. That isn't a hardware problem, is just the way the wheel is controlled by the game. But when you enter back in the race/practice (acs.exe) the wheel will regain its force. But for example if in the menu you put the wheel at 90º, then when you enter acs.exe it will remain at 90º with the car tyres turned in that direction. This isn't a hardware problem, nor a software one. At least for me is already intuition to keep the steering wheel centered or even when I enter acs.exe but still in the in-game menu (setup/info screen), I can re-center the wheel manually before pressing the drive button to control the car.

He said the off-center issue happens after he has contact with a car/object on track, suggesting everything was fine up until that point, so I doubt it is user error as you described. When my G27 started going out it was exactly as he described, I'd be driving fine but after a collision or a moment of heavy oversteer it would suddenly be a bit off-center and would continue to get more off-center with every following collision or oversteer. The only way to get it back to center was to unplug the USB and plug it back in, then it would be fine........for a while but eventually it would go off-center again. It ultimately got so bad that I really couldn't drive with it, and during my attempts to repair it my ham-fists must have damaged something because it went kaput after I reassembled everything.

Not sure why it isn't happening in other sims for him, but what he describes is happening in AC is exactly the symptoms my G27 had when the encoder wheel cracked.
 
He said the off-center issue happens after he has contact with a car/object on track, suggesting everything was fine up until that point, so I doubt it is user error as you described. When my G27 started going out it was exactly as he described, I'd be driving fine but after a collision or a moment of heavy oversteer it would suddenly be a bit off-center and would continue to get more off-center with every following collision or oversteer. The only way to get it back to center was to unplug the USB and plug it back in, then it would be fine........for a while but eventually it would go off-center again. It ultimately got so bad that I really couldn't drive with it, and during my attempts to repair it my ham-fists must have damaged something because it went kaput after I reassembled everything.

Not sure why it isn't happening in other sims for him, but what he describes is happening in AC is exactly the symptoms my G27 had when the encoder wheel cracked.
But after you damaged suspension and the steering wheel got off center, restarting the session or going back to pits fixes it. But damaging the car and having the physical steering wheel crooked is normal behavior. If you are in a race, just continue or repair in pits. So here no need to unplug the wheel.
I also use in logitech profiler the option enabled "allow game to adjust settings", so that works fine for me.
 
i started a race with wheel centered, started practice and bumbed in to a car wheel came off ca 5 degrees to the left drove maby 15 laps pitted altered setup on track again wheel 5 degrees to the left. started dirt rally drove for an hour no off center.
maybe my g 25 wheel is to old.

or it is something with last version.
 
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But after you damaged suspension and the steering wheel got off center, restarting the session or going back to pits fixes it. But damaging the car and having the physical steering wheel crooked is normal behavior. If you are in a race, just continue or repair in pits. So here no need to unplug the wheel.
I also use in logitech profiler the option enabled "allow game to adjust settings", so that works fine for me.

No, he said restarting the session does not fix it, the only way to fix it is to unplug the wheel from the usb port and plug it back in. That means it's not a problem with AC, it's a problem with the hardware. What you're describing is normal behavior for AC that would result in a crooked wheel, but it would recenter itself once you left the session. I don't think it applies to this situation because the wheel is not recentering itself when he goes to the pits or restarts the session. It sounds exactly like what happened when my encoder wheel cracked. Maybe the other sims aren't applying quite the same type of force that AC does and aren't stressing the encoder enough for the slippage to happen...........yet.
 
my encoder was broken trying superglue it later today.

Good luck and be very careful as there are a lot of little bits and bobs and wires that can be damaged (I believe that's how I killed mine). And be prepared for some work, it took a lot more to get in there than I expected and I wasn't prepared for it. Also be very carful with the glue, I apparently used too much so it spread out over the encoder and filled all the little holes which rendered it useless.

Highly recommend watching a youtube vid or two before you get started so you know what to expect. :thumbsup:

 
ty already watched the videos, my encoder was completly broken in 1 of 3 cracks so i will tear the encoder in 3 pieces and then glue 2 parts first then the last one to the 2 glued parts.
so Brandon wich wheel are you using now?
If it dont work out for me i am thinking of a t500 rs it costs 530 dollars here in sweden
 
ty already watched the videos, my encoder was completly broken in 1 of 3 cracks so i will tear the encoder in 3 pieces and then glue 2 parts first then the last one to the 2 glued parts.
so Brandon wich wheel are you using now?
If it dont work out for me i am thinking of a t500 rs it costs 530 dollars here in sweden

When the G27 died I got a Fanatec GT3 RS V2, it's fairly comparable to the G27 and served me well for a couple years (I still have it and it still works fine, though it did develop a tiny squeek). I moved up to PC land just over a year ago and not long after that decided to upgrade to a T300, but I had problems with it pretty much from the get-go and it's currently at Thrustmaster for it's second round of repairs. It was great when it worked, a major upgrade from the previous two wheels, but I had a problem with the FFB cutting out in the turns and at one point it stopped calibrating itself and wouldn't work at all. So, since the warranty is about to expire on it I figured I'd take advantage of the Fanatec Black Friday deal and got a CSW V2 with a CSL and Formula rim and so far everything seems to work great. It's a serious bit of kit and I'm really pleased with it.

The T500 is really similar to the T300 so I presume it's a really good wheel too, providing it doesn't have any faults like mine did I think you'd be really pleased with it and it's a big upgrade from the G-series wheels. If it does develop problems TM is fairly good about getting it sorted, but they can be really slow to respond which can drag things out.
 

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