AC GT3 @ Monza - Sunday 7th February 2021

[Goblin616]

This should give you the real life degrees for all gt3s though, since they are all below 800.
But you're compressing the ffb a little bit and are losing some "realism" with road cars.

The ffb compression is still strange for me but it's also happening on my fanatec csw.
Going from 900 to 450 = a lot more gain. Not 2x though.. More like 130%, very strange.

With Logitech wheels and using 100%, you'll get hardware clipping on top of the software clipping.
That's how I've found out about this effect.
When using my LUTs too, it becomes a problem as my curves won't be smooth anymore...

All interesting. I sometimes use 720* because that's 3 complete turns, though I've been using 900* most of the time. I have a G25, and always disliked how small the wheel is. Perhaps I should try turning down the steering lock for racing, but I find it makes the car much more twitchy.

 

[garyb 76]

me to Please porsche 911 Thanks

 

[Interslice]

All interesting. I sometimes use 720* because that's 3 complete turns, though I've been using 900* most of the time. I have a G25, and always disliked how small the wheel is. Perhaps I should try turning down the steering lock for racing, but I find it makes the car much more twitchy.

Like chris says about equipment i find the same with settings like that. If you keep chopping and changing you have to relearn the muscle memory, so you're better off sticking to it, unless your 100% that there's a problem and you have the permanent solution.

 

[Interslice]

This should give you the real life degrees for all gt3s though, since they are all below 800.
But you're compressing the ffb a little bit and are losing some "realism" with road cars.

The ffb compression is still strange for me but it's also happening on my fanatec csw.
Going from 900 to 450 = a lot more gain. Not 2x though.. More like 130%, very strange.

With Logitech wheels and using 100%, you'll get hardware clipping on top of the software clipping.
That's how I've found out about this effect.
When using my LUTs too, it becomes a problem as my curves won't be smooth anymore...

I switched away from using one of your LUTs a few months ago. I was driving alot of older cars around then and found the generated LUT better. I'm thinking of going back now as your's was nicer on the gt3 cars especially the 488.

The spanner in the works now is the ffb feels different from one session to another.. something to do with the vr maybe

 

[Goblin616]

Like chris says about equipment i find the same with settings like that. If you keep chopping and changing you have to relearn the muscle memory, so you're better off sticking to it, unless your 100% that there's a problem and you have the permanent solution.

I agree, this is true. Does anybody know what the "filter" setting does though?

*I may try 810* just for kicks, but I'll likely stick with 900*

 

[RasmusP]

I stopped using your LUTs a while ago. I found the generated LUT bet

Then it shouldn't cause any issues apart from that you might have to lower the gain.
The generated LUT doesn't use "ffb noise to fill in the hole at the center" = a value for 0 | 0.00.
So the noise won't get amplified by the compressed ffb.
However the first value in the generated LUT is very high to get rid of the deadzone (about 15% for most Logitech wheels).
Easily solved by lowering the gain.

What gain are you using if I may ask? At 100%, your wheel will probably shake a bit left and right. Although 800° don't change very much. Try 450° and look your wheel going nuts

All interesting. I sometimes use 720* because that's 3 complete turns, though I've been using 900* most of the time. I have a G25, and always disliked how small the wheel is. Perhaps I should try turning down the steering lock for racing, but I find it makes the car much more twitchy.

Well when you're driving GT3 cars and you're not using less than what the real car has (afaik most of them have around 540°) AND you're actually calibrating your wheel to the 720° for example, then there's absolutely no difference when driving these GT3.

Assetto takes the calibrated degrees and matches the real values, as long as the real values are below that.
If a car has more degrees, the steering ratio will becomes "more twitchy" and get compressed into your sim-wheel degrees.

The ffb gain compression still happens though.

If you have your wheel calibrated in AC while you had 900° set in the driver and THEN lower the wheel to 720°, everything will be more twitchy.
However in cockpit view, the virtual wheel should turn quite a bit more than your G25 then.

I used this trick when learning to drift: Calibrate AC with 900°, then lower the G27 in the driver to 500° so you can control the drift while having both hands on the wheel.

Does anybody know what the "filter" setting does though?

Yes:
Imagine your ffb inputs looks like this:
100% -> 0% -> 100% -> 0%

maximum filter will make it:
80% -> 70% -> 80% -> 70%

10% filter will probably make it like this:
95% -> 20% -> 95% -> 20%

It's more complicated though... in rF2 there's a "smoothing" setting and that's explained a bit.
The game applies a smoothing algorithm at it. The higher the smoothing, the more ffb samples will be thrown into the smoothing algorithm.
ffb samples = 333 Hz ffb frequency afaik.
So 333 ffb outputs per second. A bit of smoothing doesn't hurt.

However I find AC's ffb to be smooth enough. In rF2 I need to set the smoothing to about 10 samples to get the same smoothness.
When I set the smoothing to 0 in rF2, it feels like riding a saw blade

 

[random2k4]

I am driving the Z4 a lot. And its also just the nature of the car that it is leaning more to the understeery side then almost all of the other cars. As said play with the Diff Coast the and some other settings to make it rotate more and quicker, but you will not get the same turn in as in the 650s. At the bride side the Z4 is way more stable at corner entry and mid corner, and I have the feeling I can push it more through corners then other cars.

Also only 1 hour or less for a new car to learn is way to little. I also thought at first when I started learning Imola in the Z4 that I have a lot of understeer. Specially in Villeneuve and Acque Minerali. Took me some days to figure out that my racing line was ****. Just changing my line and breaking a little, I can now really push the car through the corner without hesitation. And without the danger of ending up in the gravel.

 

[RasmusP]

BTW to end the discussion about Z4 vs McLaren GT3 steering ratio etc. I unpacked the Data (yeah, not nice, but for private use it's okay I'd say).

McLaren GT3:
FFMULT=1.194
STEER_ASSIST=1.000
STEER_LOCK=240 ; Real car's steer lock from center to right
STEER_RATIO=15.0 ; Steer ratio
LINEAR_STEER_ROD_RATIO=0.00235

BMW Z4 GT3:
FFMULT=1.250
STEER_ASSIST=1.000
STEER_LOCK=320 ; Real car's steer lock from center to right
STEER_RATIO=22.5 ; Steer ratio
LINEAR_STEER_ROD_RATIO=0.0031

So yeah, steering ratios being 15 to 22.5 is a LOT.
To get the same front wheel angle, you'll need to turn the Z4 50% further!

Ferrari steering ratio is 11.9. Explains the overrotation at corner entry when not being used to the car!

 

[maxilogan]

I am driving the Z4 a lot. And its also just the nature of the car that it is leaning more to the understeery side then almost all of the other cars. As said play with the Diff Coast the and some other settings to make it rotate more and quicker, but you will not get the same turn in as in the 650s. At the bride side the Z4 is way more stable at corner entry and mid corner, and I have the feeling I can push it more through corners then other cars.

Also only 1 hour or less for a new car to learn is way to little. I also thought at first when I started learning Imola in the Z4 that I have a lot of understeer. Specially in Villeneuve and Acque Minerali. Took me some days to figure out that my racing line was ****. Just changing my line and breaking a little, I can now really push the car through the corner without hesitation. And without the danger of ending up in the gravel.

I could count on one hand's fingers the number of times I DON'T end up in the gravel at Villeneuve
Yeah I know that one hour is not enough time to get familiar with a car, you barely form the habit of knowing by instinct the sound at which you have to shift (the Z4 sound gives me the idea of being always at lower RPMs than the 650S..) so I'll keep trying and then will decide which car to use based on the results of the next few days of training.

 

[maxilogan]

So yeah, steering ratios being 15 to 22.5 is a LOT.
To get the same front wheel angle, you'll need to turn the Z4 50% further!

Ferrari steering ratio is 11.9. Explains the overrotation at corner entry when not being used to the car!

Thanks a LOT. This at least explains I was not wrong in having that impression. Now I will have to get used to it or if I can't, jump back on the 650S.

 

[Interslice]

@RasmusP using 77% gain on this lut

I think it was more like 55 on your "noclipbutstronger"

 

[Bertje]

On monza the GT-R and the Lambo are the fastest right? I might be going for the challenge of driving a different car on this event because I might have some time to practise...

 

[RasmusP]

On monza the GT-R and the Lambo are the fastest right? I might be going for the challenge of driving a different car on this event because I might have some time to practise...

If you want a bit more overall performance, go for the audi r8!
Or just try all 3 and go with the car you don't spin within 3 laps

 

[Goblin616]

Everybody in the Ford Transit, c'mon guys..

 

[Fiberoptix]

Sign me up, I will try out the Mclaren this time please @Chris Down.

 

[maxilogan]

Everybody in the Ford Transit, c'mon guys..

"You wanted something relaxing? here you are mates"

 

[640er]

Looks like upcoming Sunday will be the first one I'll be at home since long time. One Lambo pls It will also be my first race with my new VR headset. Pretty exited I am.

 

[Goblin616]

OK guys, let's see who's fast. I only ran 3 laps, half tank, and no other setup options. Now beat this:

 

[Kek700]

Wow !!!!

1 minute 5 second laps

 

[Reik Major]

Like chris says about equipment i find the same with settings like that. If you keep chopping and changing you have to relearn the muscle memory, so you're better off sticking to it, unless your 100% that there's a problem and you have the permanent solution.

Yeah, that's why I tend to stick with my old black momo, because there's no problem with it.

PS: Reading through this thread made me feel with Chris, because he has to find the sign ups in between. Maybe some technical stuff is worth an own thread.