The following is for the LG 45GR95QE-B. I'm not sure if it also applies to the 27GR95QE-B (27" model). I'm assuming it does. Also, I'm not sure if this applies to other branded monitors using these same LG panels like the Acer, Asus, and Corsair versions.
DLDSR @ 240 Hz
Follow it exactly. Do the PC restarts, as mentioned in the video, instead of the restart option the CRU program gives you. It can mess things up.
DLDSR (1.78x 4587x1920 and 2.25x 5120x2160, ignore regular DSR!) makes the monitor look on another level and really hides the fairly low PPI. It's like this monitor is made to showcase DLDSR. The image with DLDSR is fantastic! It's like a "psuedo" 4K - so sharp, clear, clean!
Extra Brightness Settings
Purchase
- If you don't have an LG service remote, you can buy one for around $7 USD. Model # MKJ39170828
Included Standard LG Remote (not the service remote)
- OSD Menu->General->SMART ENERGY SAVING and disable it if it's not greyed out (not sure if this makes the auto backlight brightness less aggressive or what but I disable it just in case)
- OSD Menu->General->Remote Setting set to "Monitor + TV" or your service remote may not work with the monitor
Service Remote
Note: The following settings only take "a few" seconds to change except the APL (P0-P7) settings which take a couple mins or so to max out.
- Press "IN START" on the remote. This should bring up the service menu.
- Set "AGING" to "ON" to get access to more settings.
- Hit "IN START" on service remote again or exit service menu and then go back into it.
- Select "DEBUG Module OLED" to bring up it's options.
- Set "CPC enable" to "OFF" (SDR & HDR).
- Set "LEA refresh enable" to "OFF" (SDR & HDR).
- Set "HDR enable" to "ON" (SDR only, automatically enabled during HDR).
- Set "LBC" to "OFF" (SDR & HDR).
- Set all the "APL" settings (P0-P7) as high as they go ("447 nit").
- Exit menu, you're finished.
Important Notes
- Raise contrast to at least 72. You don't get any light grey / white detail loss until 73-75, even then it's insanely minor and only usually in test pics and not in actual gaming/movies so you may be able to go higher, much higher, before seeing white crush in your game/movie. Personally, I keep mine at 72 because I'm OCD.
- Image Cleaning does not auto-initiate while "AGING" is set to "on". Either set "AGING" to "off" every few days so the monitor automatically begins the process the next time the monitor goes to sleep (or is powered off) if it needs to, or, you can just leave "AGING" set to "off" whenever you're not in "full brightness mode gaming/movies". Either way should work.
- Most, if not all, of the service menu settings we changed above reset when the monitor is turned off, sleep mode, etc. No big deal for me, I usually only enable them when gaming anyways (or if watching a "grand" movie), plus, it takes like 10 seconds to enable them all (except "APL").
- The "HDR enable" setting also gets reset in some other circumstances. I think when changing resolution of the monitor or something and definitely when changing picture mode (eg. Gamer 1, Gamer 2, Vivid, etc.).
- The "APL" settings get reset when changing picture mode (eg. Gamer 1, Gamer 2, Vivid, etc.).
- Don't mess with any other settings unless you know what you're doing. I severely messed up my picture editing other settings like all sorts of brightness and HDR calibration settings. They don't improve brightness from what I can tell even if the name of the setting sounds like it will.
- If you mess with other settings, keep in mind that a lot of the settings DO NOT get reset when the monitor is powered off/on. Some settings do but not all. I messed with all sorts of settings, and the only way I was able to fully make sure all settings were back to default was to downgrade the firmware (takes 1-2 hrs) and then re-upgrade the firmware back to the current version (takes another 1-2 hours).
- The settings can all be "stacked on top of each other" for max brightness.
- Even with all settings enabled, Gamer 2 still gives extra brightness compared to Gamer 1 and Vivid further still.
- I stick with Gamer 1, Gamer 2, and Vivid for SDR gaming and basically exclusively use Gamer 2 for true HDR supported gaming as the HDR highlight differences between Gamer 1 and Gamer 2 are HUGE. Avoid Vivid for true HDR gaming as it seems the calibration is messed up and you get all sorts of white crush (massive loss of details for white and light areas/objects).
What Do The Settings Do?
CPC enable:
This setting, on by default, gives the entire picture's brightness a vignette effect. This means the brightness is at it's highest in the middle of the screen and gets dimmer further from the middle in all directions (up, down, left, right). Disabling this settings gives the entire picture the same max brightness that the middle of the screen uses.
LEA refresh enable:
Setting this setting to "OFF" gives the image a slight brightness increase. When enabling and disabling the setting back & forth to test, it's easier to notice the setting being disabled (brightness increase) than it is to see it being enabled (brightness decrease). The reason for this is because the brightness increases instantly when you disable the setting (like with most settings) but, when enabling the setting, the brightness decreases gradually over a 2-ish second period.
HDR enable:
This setting applies the same sort of significant increase in brightness to SDR content that you get in HDR content, meaning, much more brightness and peak brightness highlights. This setting makes SDR games/movies (95+% of the content I view/play) look stunning with crazy-bright highlights. Also, in SDR mode, you can control the gamma, warm/cool, black booster, etc. of Gamer 2 mode so you can get Gamer 2 to look like Gamer 1 (ie. warmer) but with the increase in brightness Gamer 2 offers.
LBC:
This setting doesn't always show a difference in brightness. The times it does, it just seems to affect the centre of the screen from what I've seen. I had a sun shining in a game near the centre of the screen during some tests and while the difference wasn't huge, disabling this setting still gave a small but nice brightness increase.
APL (P0-P7):
This significantly increases the brightness for different window sizes. It affects true HDR content and SDR content (enable the "HDR enable" option for SDR!). P0 is for the smallest window size (and therefore brightest). Even if these are all set to max (447 nits), Vivid is still brighter than Gamer 2 and Gamer 2 still more than Gamer 1 so ignore the "nits" value! Just make sure they're all maxed out! Also, even if these are all set to 447, I believe the brightness still goes down as the window size increases but each window size will be brighter than default so max them all out!