Mobile Driving/Flying Cockpit with Motion and Tactile ( Build )

[MarkModdy]

5 bolts is probably overkill, but why not?

Mega 5 bolt tactile transfer…

 

[RCHeliguy]

Feeling stupid today.

I'm fighting with a shot metal cutting bandsaw blade that is taking forever when I could have just dropped into my maker space and used the big industrial cutter and made short work of this.

Doh!!!!!

On top of that I came across my nice Starrett tapping handle that I got specifically for running larger threads. Instead I used that POC on the right that is constantly coming loose. Double Doh!

 

[RCHeliguy]

The pedals are supposed to arrive on Wednesday.
So I've started to design a new sliding plate to accommodate the larger pedals.
I'm not worried about the throttle. I just need a mount plate for it. My existing mechanism is nearly infinitely adjustable in terms of moving the pedal fore/aft and adjusting the angle.

One the pedals are here, I can 3D print something with slots allowing me to tweak position and then I can drill the aluminum.

 

[blekenbleu]

I wonder whether you will regret not having diagonal braces under that 5-bolt shaker cantilever...

 

[RCHeliguy]

I wonder whether you will regret not having diagonal braces under that 5-bolt shaker cantilever...

The BK has it's front 2 bolts going straight into a profile cross member.
This should be pretty solid. I'm not worried.

 

[Atak_Kat]

Just curious. And only for aesthetics. Did you consider to invert the lfe so it is essentially below the base?

 

[RCHeliguy]

Just curious. And only for aesthetics. Did you consider to invert the lfe so it is essentially below the base?

I completely agree! I really wanted it under the plate next to the TST. Simple and sweet. I would definitely suggest most people go that route.

However I have flight pedals under there and the shallow TST just barely has enough room. Just behind my flight pedals are my 2 x SC2 Pro Power supplies, etc..

I did have a recent picture with the deck propped up about 2" taller than it would normally sit, but that's not the space it will have.

 

[RCHeliguy]

I still haven't made it to the maker space yet, but I have a couple soft metal cutting bandsaw blades arriving today, so I'll probably finish the parts here. The blade I have on my bandsaw now is for mild steel and it has too many teeth per inch. Aluminum likes fewer teeth per inch, so I've got a couple 4 TPI blades coming. They should cut through 1/4" aluminum pretty well. I'm also using my small underpowered bandsaw for cutting metal. I'm unwilling to put metal shavings in my large bandsaw even though it would be much better at this as in faster blade speed, many more inches of blades allowing them to cool better and last longer.

What's nice about the Ultimate pedals is that the mounting feet are separate from the body. So even though they have a limited range of angle compared to the Sprints, I can put a flat chunk of aluminum under the rear feet to add more angle easily. This is especially important to me for the clutch which I will likely move backwards and tilt forward relative to the brake like I did for the Sprints. That feels much better for an inverted clutch and keeps the ball of my left foot from bending backwards.

Getting back to earlier comments I've made let me say again, don't invert your pedals unless you have an issue with them upright. They are much easier to deal with upright.

 

[Atak_Kat]

However I have flight pedals under there and the shallow TST just barely has enough room. Just behind my flight pedals are my 2 x SC2 Pro Power supplies, etc..

I remember now your previous comments on that point. You have a lot of intricate complications and work-arounds.

Great stuff as usual. Thanks for the detailed progress.

 

[RCHeliguy]

The right blade makes all the difference. It didn't even take 15 minutes to do the cutting. This is only a $9.99 blade but it cut the aluminum like butter. My parts are now rough cut and ready for drilling. Then the 2" belt sander to properly shape them before I clean and polish them. The belt sander with an 80 grit surface takes a lot of material away quickly, then the 120Grit to get near finished quality, some hand sanding at 220grit, then polish and the buffing wheel.

I'd like to say that I'll just finish what I'm doing tomorrow and wait until the weekend to start on what's coming below, but I think we all know that won't happen!

 

[RCHeliguy]

Getting closer.
I could bolt everything up right now, but then I would never polish the parts.

 

[RCHeliguy]

It's assembly time!

 

[RCHeliguy]

It's assembled!
Now I need to clean up, have some lunch and try this out. Fingers crossed!!!

 

[RCHeliguy]

Mikey likes it!

I'm going to call this a success! I was worried that I would feel too much in the pedals, but I'm feeling more with this arrangement. The rpm is coming through the throttle pedal and I can generally feel more tactile effects in front now. It doesn't seem like it's causing me any issues. It just feels better. Some effects work better now, but I did just change my entire pedal deck. I'm sure it has different resonances etc.. So I need to rebalance everything.

I'm not saying this is a completely night and day difference, but I think it is something I would miss if it went away after getting used to it.

I guess the next test will be to remove the linear bearings and see how it is without them. I'll start with these light weight springs, and move up through to stronger springs to see how the deflection is. I can't feel any deflection now.

 

[MarkModdy]

Oooh shiny…

Crying out for those Heusinkveld Ultimate + pedals now

 

[RCHeliguy]

They won't have to cry for long...

 

[MarkModdy]

Lovely

 

[RCHeliguy]

If I like the Ultimates( I can't imagine not liking them), I guess I'll need to find a good home for my Sprints and HRS pedal faces and even the sliding clutch/brake plate I made for them which will work perfectly well upright as well as inverted. I can't see just keeping them around. I don't expect to wear my Ultimate+ pedals out.

 

[KnIgHtCoM]

I call dibs on the sliding plate, although I may end up upgrading to U+ too after hearing how you like them.

 

[RCHeliguy]

I call dibs on the sliding plate, although I may end up upgrading to U+ too after hearing how you like them.

I've got another plate I'm no longer using that is completely functional.
The newer plate has fewer holes in it and a bit more space on the outside of the brakes for wider lever arm, but this will work fine with M8 bicycle skewers or just M8 bolts that you can loosen and tighten.
It requires M5 bevel head screws and locknuts to bolt the pedals to the plate.