Podium DD's VS Simucube 2's

[Darren Byrne]

Hi guys, the past while I was trying to find good comparisons between these two models of dd's. Has anyone tested both ? I understand that the software for these aren't complete yet but is there any clear winner here ? thanks.

 

[EsxPaul]

@EsxPaul hey thank you very much for the reply and really appreciate the picture. it actually sheds lots of light on that statement i received. not sure what the guy was using that could not fit the paddles unless there was a modular design that had greatly increased thickness. can i ask which wheel you are using with your sc2 pro?

You're welcome.

There seems to be plenty of room there for most of the wheels and shifters I've seen so I would imagine most choices out there would fit. I'm using the SRB GT3 Wheel

Profile wise, I personally keep it simple and only setup one profile per SIM. To get users started, there are standard templates for most games included with the True Drive software. You can go much deeper if you wanted to (as many do) and have hundreds of profiles if that was your thing. Profiles per car, per track etc. There's also a lot of experienced and very clever people over at the GD forum that will always offer help with getting settings tuned in if you were to get stuck.

 

[Deleted member 197115]

You can always replace OEM SC2 QR with 3rd party like Xero Play or Buchfink Q1R if pin design is not yours.
Ascher Racing has adapter plate for that.

 

[RCHeliguy]

do you need to setup the software per game? or per game per car?

That is the same for all direct drive wheels and it is per game.

Some people get anal about it and decide to tweak for individual cars, but most of us get a title dialed in to taste and are happy. There are substantial differences per game

 

[mrbean_phillip]

Wrt the QR/pin on the SC2 setup, you can simply rotate the pin to be 90 degrees (vertical) to the shifters. Not sure why that is not thought of if people have it interfere with the shifters.

Cheers,
beano

 

[paladin21]

Thank you for your comments, greatly appreciated. One naive question... there are a couple nice looking wheels from fanatec's side that "seem" nice. Can you use their functionalities with an SC2 pro? Like for example the podium GT3 Cup with all the bells and whistles...I am guessing there can be an adaptor to physically fit that wheel on the SC2 but what about the other functions? would these work?

Any other comments from you guys on my questions?! ..i think we are crystal clear on the QR/pin issue.

 

[Deleted member 197115]

Thank you for your comments, greatly appreciated. One naive question... there are a couple nice looking wheels from fanatec's side that "seem" nice. Can you use their functionalities with an SC2 pro? Like for example the podium GT3 Cup with all the bells and whistles...I am guessing there can be an adaptor to physically fit that wheel on the SC2 but what about the other functions? would these work?

Any other comments from you guys on my questions?! ..i think we are crystal clear on the QR/pin issue.

I would personally recommend getting wheel plate from someone like Ascher Racing and bolting real steering wheel of your liking to it, you will get much better quality product capable of withstanding high forces of DD wheel without squeaking, flexing, or breaking.
But if you want to go Fanatec route, check this out https://www.simracingmachines.com/WebShop/wheel-conversion

 

[paladin21]

I would personally recommend getting wheel plate from someone like Ascher Racing and bolting real steering wheel of your liking to it, you will get much better quality product capable of withstanding high forces of DD wheel without squeaking, flexing, or breaking.
But if you want to go Fanatec route, check this out https://www.simracingmachines.com/WebShop/wheel-conversion

I have a few actual race wheels (330mm and 350mm) from my race car around. i am guessing, if i understand correctly, that i can also add button plates and paddles on them?

 

[Deleted member 197115]

I have a few actual race wheels (330mm and 350mm) from my race car around. i am guessing, if i understand correctly, that i can also add button plates and paddles on them?

This is how button plates work, you buy one that fit your specific rim or rims and bolt your wheel to it.
E.g. https://www.ascher-racing.com/shop/b16l-usb/

 

[paladin21]

lol..that got me almost as excited as when i recently received my latest brake kit ..exciting times!

 

[Jivesauce]

lol..that got me almost as excited as when i recently received my latest brake kit ..exciting times!

Not to go back and re-confuse the issue, but keep in mind that Fanatec also offers button plates like that so you can use your own nice race wheels with their ecosystem wirelessly

 

[JakeMerr]

Maybe a silly question so excuse me if it is...
What pedals do people use with the SC2? Can you use the cluibsport V3 pedals with it?

Tempted to make the jump from Fanatec CS V2.5 to SC2 Pro, convert my fanatec wheels to use with it but am unsure about pedals...

 

[RobertR1]

Maybe a silly question so excuse me if it is...
What pedals do people use with the SC2? Can you use the cluibsport V3 pedals with it?

Tempted to make the jump from Fanatec CS V2.5 to SC2 Pro, convert my fanatec wheels to use with it but am unsure about pedals...

The SC2 doesn't know about the pedals. You just plug the pedals into your pc usb and use them as normal. Thus you can use any wheels or accessories with the SC2/OSW.

 

[Fastard]

Hi guys,

I will need to have 2 things clarified before continuing the struggle to decide between SC sport 2 and DD1.

1) You can't get the max of a Fanatec DD1 wheel when using their entry-level steering wheels. The base detects the steering wheel and drops torque. What is the minimum you need in order to get the max of the wheels base motor?

2) Is the same limitation present with SC2? or the base will work the same no matter the rim? What is the cheapest wheel+buttons+paddles I can combine with this wheelbase?

Please note that I mostly play 70%rally+30%GT3 and I prefer the classic oval shaped wheels. For example, the basic P1 Fanatec rim was a joy to handle with my old CSL Elite. I don't think I need something more in terms of design/material and features. And this rim comes at 180 euros. It will be great choice for me if it's possible to combine it with SC2.

Thank you

 

[Des Pearce]

Hi guys,

I will need to have 2 things clarified before continuing the struggle to decide between SC sport 2 and DD1.

1) You can't get the max of a Fanatec DD1 wheel when using their entry-level steering wheels. The base detects the steering wheel and drops torque. What is the minimum you need in order to get the max of the wheels base motor?

2) Is the same limitation present with SC2? or the base will work the same no matter the rim? What is the cheapest wheel+buttons+paddles I can combine with this wheelbase?

Please note that I mostly play 70%rally+30%GT3 and I prefer the classic oval shaped wheels. For example, the basic P1 Fanatec rim was a joy to handle with my old CSL Elite. I don't think I need something more in terms of design/material and features. And this rim comes at 180 euros. It will be great choice for me if it's possible to combine it with SC2.

Thank you

Probably the €250 fanatec formula wheel or the €300 fanatec BMW wheel (with the DD1).

The SRC GT1 button box and rim are around €450 and will fit straight on to the SC2. The quality is great for the money and you can fit most 70mm bcd rims to the button box.

Fanatec rims need adapting to fit the SC2 and I don't think the cheaper wheels worth adapting.

 

[RCHeliguy]

My 2 cents.

Right now used equipment is going for a premium! I seriously wouldn't bother spending money to convert your Fanatec wheels.
Sell your used wheel for close to what you paid for it right now and buy something new. Most wheels are sold out, so this is the right time to sell and recover more of your money. Granted you may be without for a while. Also if you sell your wheelbase the same is true.

Not sure how long this window of opportunity will last.

Just a thought.

For people asking about continuing to use their Fanatec brakes, sure you can use a USB adapter, but this is where I have to ask you about your priorities.

Upgrading your pedals to something with a good load cell brake like the HE Sprints will have a MUCH larger impact on your driving consistency and lap times than a direct drive wheel.

I've said this before, a direct drive wheel is the LAST thing you need.

1. SOLID base. Your chassis should be rock solid so you actually feel the FFB and there is no flexing while you brake.
2. High quality load cell brake and pedals. If you can't consistently brake, trail brake in a smooth way your car will be unsettled and you will loose traction and lap time.
3. Now that you have a higher pressure brake pedal, you may want to consider a shell seat for better back support. It won't matter to you until you start pushing harder on the brakes, but it will matter.
4. Get your ergonomics sorted. Seat angle, pedals, wheel.

Up to this point I believe this is absolutely straight forward and sound advice.
There is NO POINT getting a direct drive wheel until you have your fundamentals in place.

5. This is where some will differ with me, but I would setup at least tactile and possibly motion before going to a direct drive wheel as well. However I will absolutely say that this is heavily subjective.

AFTER you have at LEAST the first 4 items in place, then you are ready for a direct drive wheel. Until then I believe you are making a mistake.

And once you have the rest of that in place, you will appreciate a higher quality wheel, which goes back to my earlier comment about selling your Fanatec wheels now, or at least the non-direct drive rated wheels.

I have also said before that direct drive wheels have no business on entry level rigs. There is nothing entry level about direct drive wheels. Some will cry fowl and boo me for saying that, but when you think about it rationally, it should be obvious.

 

[Fastard]

Fanatec rims need adapting to fit the SC2 and I don't think the cheaper wheels worth adapting.

Why ?
Because of the inferior design, less buttons and display functions?
Or because a cheap rim will not take full advantage of the base motor and the gaming experience will not be the same.
That's what I try to find out.

 

[akeem127]

2) Is the same limitation present with SC2? or the base will work the same no matter the rim?

Just to answer that part, no there is no such limitation on the SC2. No matter what steering wheel you put on, you can still get the max torque from the motor.

 

[JakeMerr]

I've said this before, a direct drive wheel is the LAST thing you need.

1. SOLID base. Your chassis should be rock solid so you actually feel the FFB and there is no flexing while you brake.
2. High quality load cell brake and pedals. If you can't consistently brake, trail brake in a smooth way your car will be unsettled and you will loose traction and lap time.
3. Now that you have a higher pressure brake pedal, you may want to consider a shell seat for better back support. It won't matter to you until you start pushing harder on the brakes, but it will matter.
4. Get your ergonomics sorted. Seat angle, pedals, wheel.

Up to this point I believe this is absolutely straight forward and sound advice.
There is NO POINT getting a direct drive wheel until you have your fundamentals in place.

5. This is where some will differ with me, but I would setup at least tactile and possibly motion before going to a direct drive wheel as well. However I will absolutely say that this is heavily subjective.

AFTER you have at LEAST the first 4 items in place, then you are ready for a direct drive wheel. Until then I believe you are making a mistake.

I already have a P1-X, Carbon Kevlar seat and am comfortable. I would get HE's but obv struggling with stock...

I don't want to be without really hence wanting to convert my wheels but I understand where you are coming from. Motion doesn't interest me ATM, I would rather fast and consistent lap times over being wobbled around in the seat.

My thought was convert my Fanatec wheel, buy a SC2, sell the wheelbase, use the pedals and when the stock madness ends buy new pedals. I refuse to pay over the odds for new pedals when I have perfectly acceptable ones already

 

[RCHeliguy]

Why ?
Because of the inferior design, less buttons and display functions?
Or because a cheap rim will not take full advantage of the base motor and the gaming experience will not be the same.
That's what I try to find out.

I run a real car use Momo 330mm Rally wheel on my SC2. It is blank and it is perfect. It is also solid as a rock. I love it.

At the extreme other end of the spectrum I run a Precision Sim Engineering GT3 wheel. It has wonderful magnetic carbon fiber shift levers, fantastic switch gear, rotaries, buttons with form fitting recesses and protrusions so I can easily find things. The wheel is solid as a rock and the switch gear is built to last like a tank.

The issue with cheaper wheels is that they will tend to flex, the switchgear may not handle being shaken hard and the wheel may eventually develop creaks and popping noises.

 

[Chrhun]

Why ?
Because of the inferior design, less buttons and display functions?
Or because a cheap rim will not take full advantage of the base motor and the gaming experience will not be the same.
That's what I try to find out.

Fanatec limits the torque on those cheaper wheels for a reason. The structure is plastic and will break if run on a full DD power.