Sensitivity brake pedal

[Boby Kim]

HI peeps,
Im using the T500 pedals and i only race Gt3 cars without any assists (no ABS).
I will try to clarify my problem. After a full calibration of the pedals in Windows and then in AC i still have the feeling that the brake pedal reaches its maximum at about 60-70& of pedal press. This happens: i press the brake till it reaches say 75% which lockes up the wheels. When releasing the pedal just a tiny bit (say 73%) unlocks the wheels. Therefore i am not able to modulate the brakes into a corner. Which means i have to fully brake before the corner and i loose time. I have played with the deadzone and brake gamma settings but it did not help. Within the control settings display i see that the pedal reaches 100% when fully depressed so i guess the calibration is right. Adjusting brake ballance or car setup for better brake behaviour does not work as somehow the Gt3 cars see 70% of pedal press as 100%. Anybody else having this problem or having a sollution for this?

 

[Helmut Skrdla]

Are you racing offline or online? For offline, it would be possible to hack in a brake pressure setting into the car setup (though I got some very angry and scary looks on the official forum to suggest this).

For online you'll have to wait until Kunos gets around to implement it on their cars.

 

[Billy Pilgrim]

I've seen this brake sensitivity problem in AC mentioned in other threads before. I don't think it's particular to you or your wheel. It's a problem with AC, I think. It'd be great if there was a fix.

 

[poet]

Isn't the "fix" for this to fully pump the pedals while in the garage before driving?

 

[Marian Zelenka]

No.

I used to have problems too in latest versions, but after the new update it changes for better. That and my brake pedal hardware mod. It's all good now.

 

[Jempy]

If this kind of problem happens ... there are only 2 ways for avoiding wheels lockup:
- be softer with your brake pedal
- set the brake gamma higher in controls setting.
This 2nd solution has a problem: it will affect all cars in game.
And as the control settings is impossible to reach in game without leaving the track and server for example .... it should make problems.

2 solutions are possible for AC:
- introduce brake pression settings in setup ??
- make controls possible to reach once in game ??
None of them are present in AC ... and I still wonder why as nearly all sims allow that

NB: AC still remains my prefered one ... but this lack of features sometimes makes me mad.

 

[Helmut Skrdla]

Yep, it's pretty much the same for me, that at about 70% travel you end up locking. Brake Pressure and Steering Wheel Lock would be pretty realistic on almost all racecars I would assume?

Better to have it in setup than mucking around with general controller settings.

Edit: Just added a 70-100% brake pressure Adjustment to my favorite mod car. At 75% is now the point where tires will lock in slow corners at the end of the brake zone (when downforce goes away) but otherwise I can step the pedal quite confidently. Might go to 80 or 85% with more practice. Of course a good driver with a nice set of load-cell pedals will easily outbrake me at the beginning of the zone, but I'd lose much more time trying to balance my foot and ending up with a lot of sliding...

Very simple if you have an open data folder, add to setup.ini under generic:

[BRAKE_POWER_MULT]
SHOW_CLICKS=0
TAB=GENERIC
NAME=Brake Pressure
MIN=70
MAX=100
STEP=1
POS_X=0.5
POS_Y=3
HELP=

 

[Pawel Ziolkowski]

There is a way to do this without messing around with game files i think.
I've been using custom calibration for brake pedal to set a "custom braking curve" that makes better use of pedal travel, and with it i have no problems with default AC braking pressures on G27 pedals... BUT tweaking calibration could be also used to adjust maximum braking force:

"DXTweak2" is a program that allows for editing calibration data for the brake pedal, for example on G27 i can switch pedal range from 0, 128, 255 (max, middle, min) to (-55, 100, 255) which essentially makes the pedal reach 82% braking power at the end of the travel.

The problem with this is that it looks like it has to be done when not on track... but i remember doing live calibration changes earlier (using DIView)... idk might be wrong or it might depend on system drivers/settings. Otherwise it is pretty straightforward and easy method when you wrap your head around how it works.

_____________________
ps: In good grip with good setup most racecars in AC don't lock wheels at full braking power braking in 5th-6th gear. Setting max pressure to 70% or so could increase braking distance at high speed by quite a bit... so imho unless you run in very low grip the gains could be marginal or even none at all.

 

[paracletus]

I get this (fanatec elite loadcell) - definitely not right with my setup on some cars.
It is a very noticeable problem here in gt3 with abs off, locks up with tiny pressure on the pedal. Have the problem with many cars in ac, but the exos and a few others are ok.
AMS & rf work perfect with the pedals, so it seems to be some compatibility issue between ac and my hardware.

 

[Boby Kim]

I found a workaround which is the slip FFB setting. When the wheels lock up, the wheels vibrates which helps me. But the margin is so small it is hard to brake at max without wheel lock up especially during the initial brake before a corner: i either brake too soft or too hard. I would like to see more options to configure the pedals.

 

[Pawel Ziolkowski]

Ofc more options would be great, but there are other means to detect if you are locking and then there are other ways to counteract that...

1) Sound, by default the tyre screech starts very early, but you can change that by increasing "Tyre skid volume onset" ... try something like 150% or more and you should be able to brake on sound alone.
2) Learning the correct braking forces by slowly turning while braking where any underrotation is seen immediately by the car turning less. Find the transitional spot and brake in straight line with that pressure on the next lap.
3) Using more rear brake balance so that before even wheels start to lock up you can feel the car squirming under the brakes (if the rear gets too tail happy in trailbraking, give coast diff some more power before dialing down on the brake balance).
4) Synchronize hard presses of the brake pedal with downshifts when you try to feel the brake threshold. (you press a bit harder when nearing the downshift moment, then as soon as you hear/feel lockup you downshift which stops it for a moment so you can ease off the pedal slowly and with precision.
5) Use stiffer front bump damping to get faster weight transfer forward so you can slam on the brakes with less fear of starting the lockup before the car settles into braking stance.

Hope some of this helps gl!

 

[PicoBp]

While it's strange, I wouldn't call this an issue. You don't adjust the brake pressure on your street car either, you adapt to the amount of forces that are needed to brake properly. In AC you just have to do the same, learn to drive the specific car, and not expect GT3, open-wheeler and street cars to behave the same on the brakes.

 

[Jason Palmer]

I found that with my Fanatec v2 pedals were a little sensitive in AC and I had to increase the brake gamma up as far as 2.0 to get the feel I wanted, but now I race with the v3 pedals I have had to increase the sensitivity as I was not getting enough braking force and set the brake gamma down to 1.0 !

Jason.

 

[Jempy]

I begin to wonder if finally inverting the pedals .... should not be the best solution as most of our pedals are inverted in comparison of real cars....
and wouldn't it be easier to adjust our foot sensivity on the brake pedal ... the same way it's done on a real car ?

There are of course good tutorials on the web for doing it .... maybe not easy to do it for a noob in those matters ... but surely is it worth the work if it surely makes this pressure on brake pedal more natural.

Thanks in advance for your best advices and conclusions if you already inverted your pedals.

 

[JeffL]

You don't adjust the brake pressure on your street car

Yes you do. When originally bled or with any hydraulic part failure they have to be re-bled.

 

[PicoBp]

Yes you do. When originally bled or with any hydraulic part failure they have to be re-bled.

My bad for the wording... You don't customize the factory brake system to personal flavours, but have to keep the official values.

 

[JeffL]

Brake pressure is a thing that should be in simulation.

 

[Helmut Skrdla]

While it's strange, I wouldn't call this an issue. You don't adjust the brake pressure on your street car either, you adapt to the amount of forces that are needed to brake properly.

Well, for race cars the option obviously exists. Even for a street car I can put in a movement block beyond a certain amount if I wanted to remove excessive lockup.

 

[Brandon Wright]

I begin to wonder if finally inverting the pedals .... should not be the best solution as most of our pedals are inverted in comparison of real cars....
and wouldn't it be easier to adjust our foot sensivity on the brake pedal ... the same way it's done on a real car ?

There are of course good tutorials on the web for doing it .... maybe not easy to do it for a noob in those matters ... but surely is it worth the work if it surely makes this pressure on brake pedal more natural.

Thanks in advance for your best advices and conclusions if you already inverted your pedals.

I inverted my CSR Elite pedals a few months ago and it made no difference, still lock them up too easily on some cars.

 

[tlsmikey]

Keep in mind that the tires lock up more frequently when they're cold too. I get easy lockups for the first one or two laps and then it settles in more.

On a GT3 car you can also turn up the ABS to help you.