Simplicity SW20 V3 settings

[Deleted member 963434]

yo anyone usin tis wheel? i wanted to share my saetings i think it best yo can get. also post yo setting maybe we can help each other. but i think ma settings best, i drive daily many cars an i tell yo tis best settings most realistic. easy to drift, wheel catches countersteer itself, easy to catch slide, easy to straighten wheel after drift, at speed above 60 kph yo must feel wheel straighten but if drift below 50 kph yo can just let off throttle an car streighten itself.
yo have wheel rotation of course its as yo choose, i choosen 1170 cause my bmw have like that
torque max cause no clippin then
details boost cause its canned effects
max speed 200 cause wheel countersteer an straighten fast
weight 3 % cause wheel as aove countersteer an straighten fast, but then yo have more oscillation, it works as damping, if yo turn it up yo have more damping, less oscillation but wheel not countersteer as fast as it should

then yo have mode 9 cause its the smoothest feel like real car not shopping cart without suspension
then again yo have bandwidth at 0,3 cause its softer response an wheel doesnt try to spin off yo hands, cause cars have suspension again yo feel soft forces, but if its slip yo feel good side force
weighted center i think is personal an have it set to off cause its canned effect like wheel feels heavier at center no matter sim, an i like sim decide how center heavy is.

share yo settings if yo have tis thing, also i post my telemetry to show i get no clippin wit tis settings, cause i have in all sims set gain to 50 so i got like 10 nm but yo can see it still goes above at 15 nm an sometimes more when drivin LMPs
share yo settings we can compare an help each others, but i think ma settings best

 

[hupske]

Settings above are the settings that most SW20 owners use. And depending on car you can play with the weight, range and gain on how heavy you want to have it in the middle.

 

[Deleted member 963434]

So.. finally you set mode to 0? this is what I always heard about this wheelbase so... can you say that this time is your final choice? (haha)

I set it up yeaterdey for a quick test with standard values and it felt good but... like waaaay to smooth (I think it was mode at 7)

I really apreciate all the work u have put in this bruh. Any xhance that you can try this on iRacing? I will trust your config in this sim much more than I would trust my own feeling haha.

xD yes im 99% sure i would stay with this settings, i dont think theres point in setting it better as all sims ffb i mean current ffb technology have it little wrong as it not simulates steering rack properly i mean that you have always steering rack connected and it shall work as ffb is always at 100% keeping your physical wheel 100% connected to steering rack in virtual car, but it works more like putting forces to your wheel tellin you what the cars doing.. but with this settings i think this wheel with this settings simulates steering rack correctly. about ffb in sims if you set one setting better for something (like racing) then you can have something else wrong (like drifting) i think this my current settings are most optimal for all cars and all things like racing, drifting and crashing xD
iv set ffb in all my sims so it all feels pretty similar, and its optimal for all cars, tracks, for racing, for drifting and chilling xD then as i disagree about setting different ffb options for different cars, i found optimal settings for all then tweak different cars setups to make car more driveable and me able to drive it faster xD so im very glad in ACC theres caster setting. as in ACC i found porshes feel good with my setting with default setup, but for BMW M6 i found ffb to be weaker, then instead of increasing gain in game or tweaking my wheel again i just increase caster for bmw from default 9 to 12,5 and force is so real.
i can even tell you with this settings bmw m3 e30 drives so similar to my real bmw e36 320i
funny you mentioned iracing cause i go back to it just 2 days ago as i finally set my wheel i decided to check it, and i tell you now i think it has best ffb than any other sim, maybe its not so detailed as in AC but feels very realistic. like it has best steering rack feeling even at lower speeds.
though iracing setting of ffb differs from other sims, as there you dont set gain but they have different sliders. i can tell you i with these settings set "wheel strength" (2 slider) to 26 nm, and "force" (1st slider) depending onc ar in mazda mx-5 i use 12,8 strength and its at max strength when 2nd slider is set to 26 nm. but for indycar dallara i must reduce it to 7.8, and in nascar truck i use 8.8 in first slider. and ffb in iracing feels so real

with those smoothing setting of mode to 7 or 9 i think it dampened road surface vibrations, i think its better to set it to lower value then increase weight to dampen those vibrations

 

[Deleted member 963434]

Settings above are the settings that most SW20 owners use. And depending on car you can play with the weight, range and gain on how heavy you want to have it in the middle.

yes i even found those settings from simracingcockpit

Simplicity SW20 V3 DD: review and settings for Assetto Corsa

Last updated: October 11th, 2021A few weeks ago I tested an SW20 v3 20nm direct drive wheelbase. Anything that isn’t Fanatec might seem a little off the beaten path for most of my readers, however, I[…]

simracingcockpit.com

and guy use similar to mine but he has wheel speed lowered i think to dampen road surface, then weight lower too i think to feel road surface better. guy say he raced in real life so maybe he knows better, or as ffb is personal preference, maybe he was racing so long that he feels this settings better, or looking for more realistic setting, as setting max speed to 165 as he did, may reduce forces coming from your front wheels, as in real car you may not feel them so strong/fast, but we simracers need them to feel car better as we sitting stationary. then as he reduced those forces, he reduced weight also to feel those forces better, but its presonal preference, i think with weight at 1% car tells me he about to go slide faster than im used to tell it myself, thats why i use 2% to be more confident on track that car dont want to make drift right now xD and it lets me catch slide better as wheel is heavier and i can calmly catch this slide, but setting it at 3% (with max force of 13 nm) i think is not good for drifting cause wheel not countersteer fast enought) i mean i thought it does as from my real life drifting experience, but then i watched some real life footage of drifting and saw them wheels countersteers faster so i reduced weight to 2%

 

[Deleted member 963434]

Settings above are the settings that most SW20 owners use. And depending on car you can play with the weight, range and gain on how heavy you want to have it in the middle.

also i posted my settings to your spreadsheet and added car i use and caster i use with it. caster is very important setting in ACC, it not changing overall ffb , but it makes wheel harder to turn, feeling of understeer and re centering strength per car. i thinks everybody shall not set prefect ffb per car but tweak car feeling wit caster in car setup. thats why im so glad ACC, pCARS2, AMS2 has caster setting.

" And depending on car you can play with the weight, range and gain on how heavy you want to have it in the middle. "
thats what i mean by caster. caster does it all, increasing caster make wheel feel hevaier to turn not only from center, but also mid corners, so caster car be set per car instead of setting weight in wheel and gain in sim
range is personal as somebody drives only gt3 he can set wheel to 570 degrees, and some as i do saw AC has 1180 degrees max so i set it to have 1180 degrees in older cars, also my real life car has 1170 degres think

 

[Deleted member 963434]

well i hanged my settings again xd but its not much change. i decided to lower max torque to 10 nm in wheel and increase gain to 80% in sims as i found it the more linear response now.
it did not much difference in AC and ACC but biggest difference in AMS2 as now bumps are weakened there and feel at center better there
but speaking about ACC i remember watching Nicky Thiim videos and i saw he had lower gain like using only 40-50 % ffb , but then i saw Charles Lecrerc streams from ACC and i saw he used so high gain he was clipping sometimes. both drivers use DD i think Thiim using some simucube or leo bodnar thing, and Lecrerc usin fanated DD 2 i think.
but me driving style/ffb prefer is more to Lecrecr style to use higher gain in sim/lower in wheel software
see how Lecrerc ffb bar goin red sometimes, i prefer it too, i think response is more linear when wheel clippin and i consider wheel clippin is nothing wrong its just suspension/power steering doing its thing in my opinion

 

[Tom_Hampton]

also i posted my settings to your spreadsheet and added car i use and caster i use with it. caster is very important setting in ACC, it not changing overall ffb , but it makes wheel harder to turn, feeling of understeer and re centering strength per car. i thinks everybody shall not set prefect ffb per car but tweak car feeling wit caster in car setup. thats why im so glad ACC, pCARS2, AMS2 has caster setting.

This doesn't make any sense. Caster is a suspension / handling tuning parameter....not just something to make adjust the feeling of the wheel. From a suspension tuning standpoint caster affects the change in front wheel camber as you rotate the wheel away from center. The outside wheel will gain some additional negative camber, and the inside wheel will stand more upright. Generally, this maximizes the contact patch of the front tires.

Caster should be adjusted based on tire data (pressure / temperature), handling characteristics, and ultimately the stopwatch. NOT how the wheel feels. If too hard to turn = faster (or too easy)...then suck-it-up buttercup!

My settings:

900 degrees / 100% stops.
20NM / 200 rpm
no boost
0 weight
Mode 0
BW 1.0
weighted center/gain 0/0

iracing: 20NM / Linear / 0 damping / 0 min

FWIW...in iRacing MX-5Cup car, without doing back to back testing....these settings feel as close as I can tell to my real MX-5 racecar (with a manual rack). 90 Minutes of driving at those settings is a real workout and will leave you sore the next day until you get used to it---which is exactly what happens when I go race IRL.

These settings can be hard to hang on to...in a slide. The correcting force is very large and the rate of rotation is quite quick. Again....that's exactly what its like in real life when you loose it getting into T1 at 120mph.

 

[Deleted member 963434]

This doesn't make any sense. Caster is a suspension / handling tuning parameter....not just something to make adjust the feeling of the wheel. From a suspension tuning standpoint caster affects the change in front wheel camber as you rotate the wheel away from center. The outside wheel will gain some additional negative camber, and the inside wheel will stand more upright. Generally, this maximizes the contact patch of the front tires.

Caster should be adjusted based on tire data (pressure / temperature), handling characteristics, and ultimately the stopwatch. NOT how the wheel feels. If too hard to turn = faster (or too easy)...then suck-it-up buttercup!

My settings:

900 degrees / 100% stops.
20NM / 200 rpm
no boost
0 weight
Mode 0
BW 1.0
weighted center/gain 0/0

iracing: 20NM / Linear / 0 damping / 0 min

FWIW...in iRacing MX-5Cup car, without doing back to back testing....these settings feel as close as I can tell to my real MX-5 racecar (with a manual rack). 90 Minutes of driving at those settings is a real workout and will leave you sore the next day until you get used to it---which is exactly what happens when I go race IRL.

These settings can be hard to hang on to...in a slide. The correcting force is very large and the rate of rotation is quite quick. Again....that's exactly what its like in real life when you loose it getting into T1 at 120mph.

i dont do know much of setups but caster is always first thing i change per car in any sim that allows to change caster, that is ACC, AMS2, pCARS2, even beam.ng i see how you increase caster wheel is stronger to turn. If i drive car in those sims when i feel wheel to light and not goin faster to center then i increase caster, if wheel to hard to turn i decrease it and thats only thing i notice what caster does. Even in ACC i thought BMW M6 have broken setup cause you know what its default caster there? around 9 degree. and i feel this car lacks ffb somehow, i felt other cars has more powerful ffb i thought car is broken in game but then i found about caster. i checked caster for every car in game and all cars have caster between 10-13 degrees but mostly they have 12,5 degrees ferraris, audis, mclaren almost all cars have 12,5. bmw is only one that have 9 degree i changed it to 11,5 and car to me so much better. you have wheel harder to turn to corner but if understeer occur i can better feel it.

I use only 10 nm thats my seting 100% sure now, i even check fanatic recomendations for them DD1 wheel and they recomend using 45% ffb in ACC, thats 9 nm for them wheel, and gain at 60%. i was using gain at 60% too but like week ago my settings changed again, now im using still 10nm in wheel but now 80% gain in game. i dont need more than 10 nm torque in any way i think its more realistic and no gt3 driver cope with such strong forces as they drive for 3 hours races and them cars have power steering.
even i saw Leclerc using high gain for his wheel look at video i posted above how much hes clipping. as i told i myself consider DD wheel clipping as working power steering, cause power steering is for you dont need to cope agains your wheel..

i checked fanatic DD1 reccomendations for all my sims and set my wheel similar, they always suggest to not use 100% 20 nm wheel torque , it goes as follows:
ACC tey suggest 45% 9nm and 60% gain
AC 50% 10nm 50%gain
AMS2/pcars2 42% 8,4 nm 60% gain in ams2 and in pcars2 100% gain but volume at 60%
f1 2020 40% 8nm 60% gain
raceroom is highest they suggest 60% 12 nm torque and same as pcars2 tey suggest 100% gain but steering force at 40%, but then you have in raceroom stteering force multiplier per car so dtm 2020 you have 1,7x, gt3 you have 1,5x, bmw m3 dtm 2,2x, but formula rookie has 4,5x multiplier

i figured it all pretty good even for iracing i not use 20 nm but only 10nm in wheel,, but in i racing i even not use full of that but have it capped at 8nm at max.

and how can you use 0% weight as wheel goes oscillating all way just when you release it? you must always hold wheel even goin at straigt,. i have 2% weight and i can release it even goin 200 kmph+ even when i turn it 5 degree to one side it goes back to center and stay there. even i disabled dynamic damping in ACC but using instead wheel mode at 9. thats the setting i too changed week ago, i previously used lower gain in sims 60% but decided to higher gain to 80% in all sims but then i set mode to 9 to have it smoother, i think its better (wheel side) damping than (sim side) dynamic damping in ACC
in AC i use gyro=1 but reducen damper_gain=0 as default was 1.0 and wheel was liveless for open wheelers especially. by enabling gyro in AC i reduced oscillation but by disabling damper_gain i made it more lively for open wheelers but still keeping gyro effects

i posted my current settings for ACC its little different than previous, what i keep and it be kept for sure now is max torque at 10, wheel speed at 200, weight at 2, bandwith at 1, what i changed from last time is i increased gain from 60 to 80 that way i have more linear wheel , stronger at lower speed and not too strong on faster speeds (but it clipps more now)
i also changed mode from 0 to 9 as it makes (maybe or my placebo) little less clipping but also weaker countersteering forces which previously was tricking me into drift when i didnt even go drift, now im more confident at fast flat out turns . thats i can find in my previous post when i told mode at 9 is better for drifting for sure, wheel is more dampened and hold aroung center better.

i set those settings week or 2 ago but played almost everyday.
now is final test to prove my settings i must stop playing for a week, drive only real cars, then go back to sim and i can tell then if those settings feel as real car.
but i already tested my casuels with this settings, i mean non sim racers and they told me this feel good almost like real car already. now next week or by 2 weeks i will post my final this time for sure settings

 

[Tom_Hampton]

i dont do know much of setups but caster is always first thing i change per car in any sim that allows to change caster, that is ACC, AMS2, pCARS2, even beam.ng i see how you increase caster wheel is stronger to turn. If i drive car in those sims when i feel wheel to light and not goin faster to center then i increase caster, if wheel to hard to turn i decrease it and thats only thing i notice what caster does. Even in ACC i thought BMW M6 have broken setup cause you know what its default caster there? around 9 degree. and i feel this car lacks ffb somehow, i felt other cars has more powerful ffb i thought car is broken in game but then i found about caster. i checked caster for every car in game and all cars have caster between 10-13 degrees but mostly they have 12,5 degrees ferraris, audis, mclaren almost all cars have 12,5. bmw is only one that have 9 degree i changed it to 11,5 and car to me so much better. you have wheel harder to turn to corner but if understeer occur i can better feel it.

If you don't know much about setups then, I'd suggest you do some reading. Of course, you don't have to...but, if you want to understand what caster/camber/toe do to a real car...that's what you need to do. The purpose of caster (in a racecar) is NOT to change the centering force on the wheel----that is just a side effect of large amounts of caster. As I noted above, the usefulness of caster in a racecar is to increase negative camber on the outside (loaded) front tire, and decrease the negative camber on the inside tire. Caster also causes a small amount of weight jacking...as in many cases the ride height will also change as the wheel is rotated in large caster situations.

This all changes how the car handles. It will alter the front-end grip, and turn-in characteristics. That said, the lap-time benefits of the ideal caster setting compared with an adequate setting is marginal. Maybe 1-2 10ths per lap.

I use only 10 nm thats my seting 100% sure now, i even check fanatic recomendations for them DD1 wheel and they recomend using 45% ffb in ACC, thats 9 nm for them wheel, and gain at 60%. i was using gain at 60% too but like week ago my settings changed again, now im using still 10nm in wheel but now 80% gain in game. i dont need more than 10 nm torque in any way i think its more realistic and no gt3 driver cope with such strong forces as they drive for 3 hours races and them cars have power steering.
even i saw Leclerc using high gain for his wheel look at video i posted above how much hes clipping. as i told i myself consider DD wheel clipping as working power steering, cause power steering is for you dont need to cope agains your wheel..

i checked fanatic DD1 reccomendations for all my sims and set my wheel similar, they always suggest to not use 100% 20 nm wheel torque , it goes as follows:
ACC tey suggest 45% 9nm and 60% gain
AC 50% 10nm 50%gain
AMS2/pcars2 42% 8,4 nm 60% gain in ams2 and in pcars2 100% gain but volume at 60%
f1 2020 40% 8nm 60% gain
raceroom is highest they suggest 60% 12 nm torque and same as pcars2 tey suggest 100% gain but steering force at 40%, but then you have in raceroom stteering force multiplier per car so dtm 2020 you have 1,7x, gt3 you have 1,5x, bmw m3 dtm 2,2x, but formula rookie has 4,5x multiplier

i figured it all pretty good even for iracing i not use 20 nm but only 10nm in wheel,, but in i racing i even not use full of that but have it capped at 8nm at max.

As I said....I own and drive an actual racecar in wheel-to-wheel competition...a 1990 Mazda MX-5 with a manual steering rack. In that car, it take real force to turn the wheel, and hold 1.5g cornering force with maxed out camber and caster. That's true at 100 kph, and 200 kph at full-G cornering forces. Our races are 20-50 minutes long. I'm WORN-OUT by the end of a race. After 3 days of practice and racing (~2 hrs total track time each day)....I'm sore for 3-4 days into the following week. I'm also an athlete, and I specifically train my arms and upper body steering muscles....and I still get sore for several days.

The settings above with this wheel, are very close to what its like to drive my own racecar. 8NM I can drive one-handed.

and how can you use 0% weight as wheel goes oscillating all way just when you release it? you must always hold wheel even goin at straigt,. i have 2% weight and i can release it even goin 200 kmph+ even when i turn it 5 degree to one side it goes back to center and stay there. even i disabled dynamic damping in ACC but using instead wheel mode at 9. thats the setting i too changed week ago, i previously used lower gain in sims 60% but decided to higher gain to 80% in all sims but then i set mode to 9 to have it smoother, i think its better (wheel side) damping than (sim side) dynamic damping in ACC
in AC i use gyro=1 but reducen damper_gain=0 as default was 1.0 and wheel was liveless for open wheelers especially. by enabling gyro in AC i reduced oscillation but by disabling damper_gain i made it more lively for open wheelers but still keeping gyro effects

I only drive in iRacing. So, I have no comment about any other sims. But, 2% weight felt like mud to me. No, I don't need to hold the wheel driving straight. But, its not like I let go while racing anyway. Racecars aren't supposed to be "stable" they're suppose to turn well. Sometimes that's at the expense of a little straight-line stability. When I turn-in, I want the car to turn NOW! I run 1-2mm of front toe-out to improve initial turn-in. So, I'm quite used to some slight straight-line instability.

i posted my current settings for ACC its little different than previous, what i keep and it be kept for sure now is max torque at 10, wheel speed at 200, weight at 2, bandwith at 1, what i changed from last time is i increased gain from 60 to 80 that way i have more linear wheel , stronger at lower speed and not too strong on faster speeds (but it clipps more now)
i also changed mode from 0 to 9 as it makes (maybe or my placebo) little less clipping but also weaker countersteering forces which previously was tricking me into drift when i didnt even go drift, now im more confident at fast flat out turns . thats i can find in my previous post when i told mode at 9 is better for drifting for sure, wheel is more dampened and hold aroung center better.

i set those settings week or 2 ago but played almost everyday.
now is final test to prove my settings i must stop playing for a week, drive only real cars, then go back to sim and i can tell then if those settings feel as real car.
but i already tested my casuels with this settings, i mean non sim racers and they told me this feel good almost like real car already. now next week or by 2 weeks i will post my final this time for sure settings

I drive in Sim (iRacing) to stay sharp for real racing, and therefore try my best to replicate the actual race conditions (driving position, race controls). I don't want a weak wheel, and I don't want steering sensations that differ from the real-thing. The settings I listed come as close as I can imagine to replicating the MX-5 in real racing conditions.

If your purpose is different, then your settings may end up in a different place.

 

[Deleted member 963434]

@Tom_Hampton
so you use your wheel to simulate your real life mazda and by saying manual stering rack you mean without power steering?
for sure without power steering forces will be stronger, but mazdas mx5 in iracing are from 2008 or something and they have power steering, but that doesnt mean you shall not set them to have it. i mean yes you can set mazda in iracing to not have power steering as your real life car, and as you use iracing to train for real life racing you even should set it as you have currently to act as non power steering to better simulate your real car.
But i like myself to have setup to simulate power steering thats why i set max 10 nm and 80% gain in all my sims.
I can even tell sims ffb arent ideal i mean i sure would want to use all that 20 nm force of my wheel, to act like real car even with power steering if you slip at 200 kmph of course wheel will output 20 nm to countersteer it or i would say i can be even more that 20 nm. But thing is with sims ffb you either choose to have powr steering or to not have it. i mean in car without PS when you slip wheel countersteers very strong and it output 20 nm force or more, and in car without PS you can't or barely can work agains it i mean when you slip at right turn and wheel countersteering to left ... I myself cant tell how it work cause i never have such spin in real life at that speed.. i you can still turn it to right when it countersteers itself to left, can you? i dont know... but i have such slip in real car with power steering i was turning left into drift, car slips wheel countersteering with strong force to right but i still can thanks to PS turn it even more to left but force is stronger to turn and i would tell it was around 8-10 nm, car was BMW e36 .
You using your sim to simulate your real car without power steering, i using my wheel to so many different sims and mostly i drive cars with power steering. i can tell my car in sim is BMW e30 M3 in AC which i think is most similar to my real life BMW e36 320i with PS, so i try to set bmw e30 in AC to match my real e36 as close as i can. And both cars have power steering so of course i wont use wheel at 20 nm in road car BMW e30 as it not simulates then my power steering e36 of course.
My setting i use i can tell its most universal to use with 7 different sims i have. i can tell they all now feels very same i can quickly swam them and with eyes closed i couldnt distunguish which sim is which. but i can also tell i would use 13 nm in my wheel indeed, as i was using such force, but AMS2 and pCARS2 was sims that FORCED me into reduction that strength to 10 nm, cause them ffb differs from other sims and if you use 13 nm in wheel and also 60% in that sims.... i can tell 13 nm in wheel and 60% gain was perfect for ACC, AC, Raceroom and iracing, but AMS2 and pCARS2 worked bad at such high nm.... when you locked brakes in ams2 in car that has no abs wheel would countersteer at 13 nm and that force was driving me mad i was raqe quiting swearing and this game, but then i found out if you set 10 nm in wheel and 80% gain in AMS2 when you lock brakes and car slips this countersteering force was not so strong anymore and i could precisely then let brake off and position my wheel to take turn good.

Last thing about wheel weight yes i know iracing simulates steering shaft, but that you wont have in AC. try AC with weight at 0 .... you start you sim, car is standing still, no movement and you touch wheel and it starts oscillating like crazy at 0 speed. for AC weight at 1 is minimum i was using it too for long time but decided to increase to 2 as i like to drive road cars a lot on nordschleife and just chill and drive so i want to be able to release wheel to open beer or something xD

 

[Deleted member 963434]

i check your site i see you definately have some technical knowledge to set you wheel good for mazda in iracing to match it to your real car. im myself has no such technical knowledge, im setting my wheel organoleptically to try match BMW e30 in sim to my real car BMW e36 and for now i think i match it pretty good. by also keeping my settings to not only for e30 in AC but also very universal for all 7 sims i use

 

[Tom_Hampton]

i check your site i see you definately have some technical knowledge to set you wheel good for mazda in iracing to match it to your real car. im myself has no such technical knowledge, im setting my wheel organoleptically to try match BMW e30 in sim to my real car BMW e36 and for now i think i match it pretty good. by also keeping my settings to not only for e30 in AC but also very universal for all 7 sims i use

HA! I assume you mean my racecar build log: tomhampton.info.

 

[Deleted member 963434]

HA! I assume you mean my racecar build log: tomhampton.info.

yes you definately know about car setups in real life and that transfer to sims as well, if you drive real mazda in real life you should also know how to transfer real life feedback on wheel into sim feedback

about my settings i wanted to make week pause from sims to tell if my current settings is best. but i can tell right now im sure its best i had. torque at 10 nm in wheel and gain 80% in all my sims. i yesterday tsted again wheel torque at 13 nm and gain at 60%, as torque in wheel 10 nm and gain 80% in sim shall output 8nm initial resistance.. and torque 13 nm in wheel and 60% in sim shall output 7,8 nm resistance. numbers are similar i should not feel difference at initial resistance, but thing is wheel oscillating more at higher torque in wheel.. maybe thats not realistic cause i may not drive such fast speed in real life as i do in sims, but i think torque at 10 nm in wheel and gain 80% in sims for me seems more realistic, less oscillating, more linear wheel. also i check this mige motor directly on manufacturer site and it say its HOLDING torque is 10 nm and PEAK 15 nm so i dont know why OSW guys who invented using this motor with sims tell its holding torque is 15 nm and peak is 20 as manufacturer clearly say its 10 nm holding and 15 nm peak. so i want to have always holding torque at 10 nm max for more linear resonse like steering shaft always there..
speaking abous steering shaft i can tell slight difference in AC, ACC, or raceroom difference is biggest noticeable between setting 10 nm in wheel and 80% in sim and 13 nm in wheel and 60% in sim. i would tell at 10 nm wheel and 80% sim you feel steering shaft better, more linear response but in iracing i couldnt tell any difference between 10 or 13 nm in wheel. i guess its cause iracing actually simulates steering shaft thats why. and AC, ACC don't so if yo want have steering shaft feeling you must figure out it yourself by wheel driver, and thats what i actually did after using this wheel for almost a year. after almost year i can tell these settings are not only most realistic but also most univrsal to use with 7 sims i use without changing different settings per sim. only thing i change is just degree of rotation that is i must set 360 for F1 2020 and for raceroom i must set it always per car as dtm 2020 use 450, gt3 use 540, dtm 1992 use 544 etc i already remember them all for 3 cars i drive often. good thing is yo can set it "mid race" so you dont need to close your sim to set degree, you can always pause game and set rotation in wheel driver

 

[Deleted member 963434]

i used this thread as my personal diary to remember after year of setting up which setting does what to wheel, and im glad i made this thread. cause i finally set up all but not one, but today just moment ago i finally decided.
to start what i changed from last time is i was using 20 nm, then 15, then 13, then 10 nm, but today again i swap to full force on wheel to 20 nm. i remember Stefano developer from AC saying AC uses like 10 000 increments to gain or something so no difference between 10 nm in wheel and 40% gain in game, i wasnt sure but i still used 20 nm and 40% gain in game, but then AMS2 came and forced me to reduce torque on wheel to 10 nm and 80 gain in game as i remember was weird forces when wheels lock up mid corner and i was experiencing like ful 20 nm counter steering force in AMS2, but it was only ams2 ffb issue, which they fixed like half year ago (?) but i was using still 10 nm on wheel after them update to ffb.
now i decided to use ful 20 nm on wheel as i see no difference in AC, ACC fells maybe little better, ams2 good after update., and i racing i even cant tell difference between 20 nm in wheel and half force in game or 10 nm and full force in game
speed at 200 rpm cause i saw real life drift footage and drift cars really steering wheel snaps so fast as at 200 rpm i wheel. also feeling center seems not that good after i watched this video of skip barber crash, i would though wheel shall return to center to help this buddy but it doesnt and he was shaking wheel just like i before crash and swearing it should center itself xD also wheel realy seems unstable on straight as Tom mentioned above.

now i know weight is setting dependant only on wheel you use, for example if you put heavy 37 cm wheel from real car you may use 1 % weight, but if you put logiteh wheel that weights like 200 gram or something you may be need to use 5 % weight, its just your wheel dependant.

last setting i wasnt sure until today just moment ago was this MODE setting.
as i drove before at Mode 9 but wheel max torque at 10 nm and dynamic damping in AC and ACC disabled, i couple of days ago tried 20 nm and turn on dampers, and its better with dynamic dampers at 100%, but then after makin such important settings i think i shall now test this mode at 0 to see what it does.
my testing was taking lmp porsche 919 at nordschleife and bmw m3 e92 at skidpad both tests in AC.
now with 20 nm max torque, dynamic damping at 100% , but mode one test was at 0 and second at 9.

results are:
porsche on nordschleife at mode 9 wheel feels smoother indeed, more like real car, but at mode 0 more like shopping car with no suspension. that proved what i wrote in this thread year ago that mode is actually damping on wheel simulating suspension. but i thought you can have either mode at 0 and damping in game at 100 or mode on wheel at 9 and damping in game at 0, but i was wrong. its best to have both dampings in game and on wheel, but its personal there are people who likes no suspension in sims and i understand that they want to feel whole "suspension" on wheel as substitute to seat of pants feeling.
second test was bmw m3 e92 on skid pad mod track , and i can tell sure, as first test showed me pretty slightly was mode at 0 or 9 does. as difference was slight and was at fast corners that at mode 0 wheel feeled stiffer (as i from beginning use bandwith at full value of 1,0) and at mode 9 feeld smoother. that second test was drifting. but not only drifting let me tell you not some important thing first. i see mode at 0 better simulates kerb hit, force is like little stronger, and at 9 is weaker, like suspension absorbed hitting kerb force, that i tested on spid pad by driving many times at same speed on grass and on road again, every time i drove from grass into road i changed mode and i feel at mode 0 force is stronger. other thing not so important is at mode 0 wheel is more quiet, it makes no sounds, but at mode 9 when turning wheel very very fast like releasing it for drift at 150 km/h it may make metal noise.
but most important i was drifting bmw on skid pad circle at 150 m diameter with speed around 150 km./h at 4 gear and i noticed (and i dont think its placebo as one time i even forget which setting currently i use and i guessed just from the feel. that drifting is much better at mode 9 and thats statement i made almost year ago. wheel finds its desired center for countersteering and stays there better, also i noticed at mode 0 my drifting was more nervous as forces was too raw, too aggressive, too quick changing, and at mode 9 wheel feels dampened and let me control drift better.

today im pretty sure my final setting would be as those

also in terms of AMS2 on previous ffb before update ams2 was sim that forced me to go to first 13, then 10 nm in wheel as forces during cornering was too big, exactly as using iracing on full force, but after ffb update like half year ago i didnt even bother to check settings at 20 nm back , and thing i noticed is sometimes with open wheelers i would turn wheel too much and put car into spin without even knowing it as strangely wheel at 10 nm and gain at 80 in sim would output 8 nm max force, but wheel at 20 nm and 40% gain in sim outputs 13 nm at max, so force goes so big i cant even turn wheel more not to tell i be able to turn it too much and put car into spin.
but is that more realistic? i think i finally sacrificed realism feel for better feeling of car in sim. as i read cars even non power steered open wheelers output 6,5 nm as max force

 

[Deleted member 963434]

i must update my posts as after some time from May 21 i read my last post, i was secretly testing mode at 0 again. and i felt it better for some time, wheel like more raw, more alive.. but then i made a big pause like month or more (not on purpose, just had no time to simracing) and after i go back into it i felt wheel acts kinda weird, more like horse riding thing, lie you must hold it still and it wanna shake all aroung, more like you would ride a horse not a car.
then i wasnt sure to change again, if its just sims ffb wrong overall, or i must again adapt to simracing after such long pause from it??? but i changed back to mode at 9 again and effects was straight again good.
so my last post from May 21 is true indeed, these are settings i currently use i i think i shall make agin pause from simracing for like month and get back to is to see if now its still realistic wheel behaviour.
but now im like 90% sure those settings i posted above are best settings i ever had.
but i noticed its still, even with DD wheel very sim dependant, like games such as pCARS2 and AMS2 feel so much different than RRRE, rFactor 2 and iRacing still. but at mode 9 you make them feel more similar than at mode 0.
for example at mode 0 or 9 i feelt slight difference in pCARS2, little more diffrence in AMS2 it was that drifting/countersteering was too harsh on mode 0.
but in iRacing at mode 0 it was too strong understeer efect, like you mid turn have grip/have torque on wheel then understeer happen and you loose torque. and mode 9 its like mid turn you have torque, then understeer happen and your torque softens up until you loose it. i think best sim to tell diference between mdoe 0 nad 9 is iracing and rfactor 2

 

[Deleted member 963434]

in iracing mode at 0 is like mid turn you have grip and have torque mid turn, then understeer happen and you instantly loose torque on wheel, that makes me nervous. and in nascar when oversteer happen wheel acts too aggressive too , like it kinda wants to countersteer on itself even at sightest oversteer, that make me nervous too and countersteer to much and let off throttle too much.
but at mode at 9 its all softer. like mid turn you have grip and have torque and as you loose grip under oversteer you loose torque slower/softer, that makes me more precise and more calm, also in nascar when you oversteer you feel softer input in wheel countersteer and that calm me down so i can more precise countersteer on my own and still hold throttle or let off slower/slighter and not so nervous as on mode 0.
indeed im 90% sure now my above settings are my final settings.
im finnaly so happy with these settings i kinda feel afraid of new ffb updat to come cause im scared then i will loose again year to make my best final settings again xD

 

[Fujiwara tofu shop]

I'm sorry if this is off topic, but has anyone experienced the feeling of like electrical noise through the steering column on their sw20? What i mean is that for example if my car is parked in Iracing (with the engine turned off) i feel noise, like some incredibly high frequency vibrations as if you were putting your hand on an motor or something. The only thing that seems to change the feeling is the "mode" and "bandwidth" settings, turning them down makes it less noticable, and turning them up worsens the problem.

Anyone have any idea what this could be? Sim-plicity already tried sending me another unit but the exact same thing happened on it. I guess that means that nothing is wrong with the hardware. Could it be something to do with grounding?

 

[Deleted member 963434]

I'm sorry if this is off topic, but has anyone experienced the feeling of like electrical noise through the steering column on their sw20? What i mean is that for example if my car is parked in Iracing (with the engine turned off) i feel noise, like some incredibly high frequency vibrations as if you were putting your hand on an motor or something. The only thing that seems to change the feeling is the "mode" and "bandwidth" settings, turning them down makes it less noticable, and turning them up worsens the problem.

Anyone have any idea what this could be? Sim-plicity already tried sending me another unit but the exact same thing happened on it. I guess that means that nothing is wrong with the hardware. Could it be something to do with grounding?

Hello,
do you use any buttonbox/buttonplate with paddles for wheel?

I noticed for my wheel when i mounted buttonplate that sound i dont remember if it apperaed or worsened (i dont remember if it was present before mounting buttonplate)
but for sure i can tell after mounting buttonplate my wheel started to reset itself mid race and cutting off FFB completely and i must restart game to have it back. That often happened after 20-30 mins of racing ffb was just cut off and in wheel setting telemetry tab i saw FFB RESET: 1
i contacted simplicity too but they didnt helped me, they told me to look them site troubleshooting page.
so i found resolve myself. at granite devices or simucube forums i think it was tutorial how to make simple grounding for wheel.
i dont know if it will help with your issue but for me it helped with ffb resets. Note that i myself also feel small noise at mode 9 but i use it cause i kinda like that little noise makes me thing its steering shaft noise. so i stil use mode 9.

My resolve was to buy copper cable at electrical shop, copper cable with rubber braid like that:


split cable into 3 pieces
1 piece : connect one end to your motor bolt, another end to your rig bolt
2 piece : one end from your rig bolt, enother end to controller box bolt
3 piece : one end from your controller box bolt, another end to your PC case bolt close to PSU

i dint believed that will work but somehow it did resolved my resets.

this is page i found how to ground (ctrl+F: grounding)

Project BruteForce2 - IONI-based DIY DD FFB Wheel (Extensive worklog)

GENERAL INFO Please do not copy any of my work to other web-sites without prior approval and give credit where it is due. Hello Guys, After a rather short wait, here is the new Bruteforce2 project log, based on the newly released IONI Drive, by Granite Devices. This log will be a...

forum.virtualracing.org

but my grounding is much simplier than that this guy made, i can post you pictures if you want
but note it didnt helped with noise but i think it may make it less noisy. at the end my resets was i think from electric noise thing.