My g27 seems dead so i guess it's either g29 or t300....
What put me off the T500 was the fact that the shifter paddles don't move with the wheel, which makes it stupid to drive. I've driven real cars with fixed paddles, and it's no better in real life, believe me.
Just go all default. Maybe reduce the low ffb setting to 10%.I'm using now my brand new T300rs with F599xx wheel, and it's great! But I still need to configure well for AMS. Can anyone share a wheel profile for T300rs and AMS please??
I'm using now my brand new T300rs with F599xx wheel, and it's great! But I still need to configure well for AMS. Can anyone share a wheel profile for T300rs and AMS please??
I have TX, but its the same wheel.I have the Thrustmaster Control panel strength set to 75%, Constant 100%, Periodic 100% and the others at 0. In game I have Effects = Pure 360hz (reduce if causes stuttering), Strength = 100% and FFB Low Boost = 40%. Works for me.
In my T300 experience using settings similar to fortyfivekev's most of the cars (Opala is a notable exception) come nowhere near clipping if using the default values in the realfeel.ini. Of course, I'm just waving my arms around in the absence of an FFB clipping tool.I have TX, but its the same wheel.
Don't you get clipping feel with that with some of the cars? That seems alot for me.
Been using same values but control panel overall max at 72% and ffb low boost 36-38%.
Could you elaborate on what you changed for the Boxer, since I have the same feeling and was wondering how to tweak that car individually?I am using the default realfeel values apart from the Boxer which I find too vague with the default.
Could you elaborate on what you changed for the Boxer, since I have the same feeling and was wondering how to tweak that car individually?
(sorry if it's a stupid question, I'm new to the game and was really hoping not to have to tweak realfeel directly, too many bad memories of hours doing that instead of just racing in rF1)
As for T300 settings: I have my T300 at 75/100/100/0/0 in drivers, with in game FFB at 80% and low boost at the official-forums-recommended 30%. To me it felt like 100% was getting uncomfortably close to clipping on fast elevation change corners, but I didn't feel any significant telltale T300 clipping buzz so perhaps I should put it back up again... It certainly helps SAT forces to maximize wheel spin speed, i.e. when attempting to drift the Caterhams![]()
More experience people will give more details but basically:I'm looking to invest in a T300 or TX on Black Friday will be hunting down a deal, is there really any difference between the two ? I want the T3PA bundle.
Well, not exactly. Both the TX and T300 has bundles with T3PA and addon rims. 28cm leather for TX and 30cm Alcantara for the T300. Base difference is 900/1080° rotation and XBOX/PS compatibility between the TX/T300. Performance otherwise is exactly the same.More experience people will give more details but basically:
- TX is compatible with Xbox while T300 is PS3/PS4 compatible. Both compatible with PC!
- 900° rotation for TX, 1080° for T300
- 3 pedals set T3PA for TX, only 2 basic (crappy?) pedals for T300
Steering wheels are different also (obviously TX has the X-box buttons layout, T300 has Playstation buttons).
The rest is pretty similar as far as I know...
Well, not exactly. Both the TX and T300 has bundles with T3PA and addon rims. 28cm leather for TX and 30cm Alcantara for the T300. Base difference is 900/1080° rotation and XBOX/PS compatibility between the TX/T300. Performance otherwise is exactly the same.