T3PM or T3PA Addon?

Which pedals?

  • T3 PM

    Votes: 16 34.0%
  • T3 PA

    Votes: 6 12.8%
  • T3 LCM

    Votes: 22 46.8%
  • Something else

    Votes: 3 6.4%

  • Total voters
    47
Hello,

I own a T 300 RS GT edition for some years now. Now, my brake pedal broke, the warranty is over for a long time now :mad:
So I need to buy a new pedal set. But which one? T3PM or T3PA? The price difference is just 10 €, neglectable.
I play almost only Rally sims.
What pedal set do you suggest me?

Greetings
 
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Are you on console and therefore need the connectivity with the wheelbase?

If you use a PC there are a lot more options.

Anyway I´d not invest into obsolete tech with spring loaded brake and potentiometers, so TLCM.
Do your own research here in this forum about pros and cons.

MFG Carsten
 
Hello,

I own a T 300 RS GT edition for some years now. Now, my brake pedal broke, the warranty is over for a long time now :mad:
So I need to buy a new pedal set. But which one? T3PM or T3PA? The price difference is just 10 €, neglectable.
I play almost only Rally sims.
What pedal set do you suggest me?

Greetings
Do you have your wheel attached to a table or rig? Load cell pedals, in my opinion, need to be used with a rig.

When you say that your 'brake pedal broke' - is that in a physical sense, or is it 'spiking' etc. when you're playing a rally game?
 
I have a Wheel Stand Pro. Does this count already as "rig"?

My old brake pedal is broken in a physical sense. It just drops down to about the state of 85 % being pressed. I have only the last 15 % left. With a deadzone of 85 % I managed to play a bit this weekend.
 
In my (and SRG) experience, strapping a wheel stand to even an office chair on casters
strap.jpg


...provides sufficient stability for load cell braking forces:
 
I have a Wheel Stand Pro. Does this count already as "rig"?

My old brake pedal is broken in a physical sense. It just drops down to about the state of 85 % being pressed. I have only the last 15 % left. With a deadzone of 85 % I managed to play a bit this weekend.
I think blekenbleu answers the point I was trying to make.

If you want to upgrade regardless, ignore what I'm about to suggest. Have you tried using contact cleaner on the brake's potentiometer? It's a common problem with those pedals - I had to clean 'em a few times before upgrading to load cell pedals.
 
If the pedals are older with a lot of mileage also mechanical problems are possible .
The plastic gears which drive the potis are not very durable.

If you run a search you will find loads of info and repair solutions.

And if don´t want the hassle research the TLCM, from what I read it can be set light enough to be used with a wheel stand.
Than you are in the TM eco system with loadcell and hall sensors, so no more effing potentiometers.

MFG Carsten
 
I'm about to suggest. Have you tried using contact cleaner on the brake's potentiometer? It's a common problem with those pedals - I had to clean 'em a few times before upgrading to load cell pedals.
There is really something broken. The default state of the pedal is about 85 % pressed. There is only resistance left for the rest. When I pull it up to 0 % with my hand or toes, it "falls down" alone and immediately, zero resistance.
As I have 0 DIY skills and the warranty is over for a long time now, I consider upgrading.

Or what are the experiences with the Thrustmaster support outside warranty? How long and how expensive a break pedal repair would be when I send them my current pedal set?
 
Have a look at this video:


Not to sell you the mod but to show the inner workings.
Maybe you can have look and determine the problem.

As for servicing the pedals, I´d rather not invest any more money in this obsolete tech.
They were not that expensive to beginn with and won´t stand the test of time well.

MFG Carsten
 
contact cleaner on the brake's potentiometer
Contact cleaner is not ideal for potentiometers,
which come with a light application of conductive lubricant.
Contact cleaner flushes away that lubricant, accelerating wear.
Given expense and difficulties of exact potentiometer replacements,
consider instead e.g. CAIG Fader Lubricant: https://caig.com/fader-f-series/

It sounds like @Rally_1337 pedal has a broken spring.
 
Hi guys,

I don't have forgotten you :)
I was abroad for some time. Just before boarding the plane, I ordered the T3 LCM pedals. They have arrived already and I'll give them a try when I find time :)
While I was away, my father got bored and repaired the brake of my old pedal set. When my rig is capable of dealing with the resistance of the LCM pedals, I'll keep them and sell the old ones for a low price.

Greetings
 
I want to sell my old and repaired T3PM pedals now :)
50 € + shipping (depends on your country and the shipping company you want), the article is located in Germany. The pedals are in a good shape, the clutch is almost virgin (I play only rally games and in modern WRC cars, you race without clutch).
Video showing the pedals
 
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Based on the video they look like T3PA, not T3PM...?
Agreed. I think it is the GT version. Also, the brake pedal seems to be missing the conical rubber brake mod - from personal experience, it's a bit of a palaver buying it from Thrustmaster.

ZONE_SansNom2.CELL_Extérieur.CELL_Interne.IMG_IMAGE (002).jpg


Edit. I don't think one is allowed to sell on this site outside of the 'Sim Racing Marketplace' - & it appears to be restricted to Premium members (the selling part).
 
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Based on the video they look like T3PA, not T3PM...?
I'm not an expert with the naming conventions. I saw photos with the different Thrustmaster pedals and mine looks like the T3PM.
But the T3PA seem to have a shiny surface which mine don't have: T3PA pedals in a random shop

Agreed. I think it is the GT version.
Yes, I purchased it together with the GT edition of the T300 RS wheel.

Sorry for the confusion, advertising them as something better was not my intention.
 
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