Tactile Immersion - General Discussion - Hardware & Software

[fecktwitgaming]

Hi All

New to the forum and been sim racing for a while. Just built my own 8040 rig. Trying to get some tactile on the rig. I want to install 6 channels. I am looking for a connection wiring plan from a 7.1 channel or a 5.1 channel card. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

[jamescarruthers]

First stop would be your soundcards manual.

 

[Brutal Deluxe]

Hi All

New to the forum and been sim racing for a while. Just built my own 8040 rig. Trying to get some tactile on the rig. I want to install 6 channels. I am looking for a connection wiring plan from a 7.1 channel or a 5.1 channel card. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

In brief, if you're using Simhub, you can use each jack output on the soundcard in to the L & R inputs on an amp. The outputs on most 5.1 cards are as follows;

1 output for 2x front speakers
1 output for 2x rear speakers
1 output for centre and sub

A 7.1 card will have the above plus 1 output to 2x side speakers

If you're looking for 6 channels. You can use a 5.1 card and wire the 3 outputs in to 3x 2 channel amps (or a similar combination). I hope that helps answer your question.

 

[fecktwitgaming]

In brief, if you're using Simhub, you can use each jack output on the soundcard in to the L & R inputs on an amp. The outputs on most 5.1 cards are as follows;

1 output for 2x front speakers
1 output for 2x rear speakers
1 output for centre and sub

A 7.1 card will have the above plus 1 output to 2x side speakers

If you're looking for 6 channels. You can use a 5.1 card and wire the 3 outputs in to 3x 2 channel amps (or a similar combination). I hope that helps answer your question.

Thanks just wanted to make sure i was on the right path, thanks for your help.

 

[McClusky]

Is there a solution add shakers to a bucket seat with strong adhesive or Velcro tms? The bottom of the seat is smooth, and I wouldn't like to make holes. I'm thinking the AuraSound AST-2B-4

How much do I lose with an setup like this compares to just drilling holes and hard mounting?

This may help to give you some ideas How to mount bass shaker to curved back of seat (without drilling)?

 

[Mr Latte]

Rig Update:
Had a productive week with lots of needed components arriving. This let me get creative with some new build ideas, cover some options I had for determining which worked, which didn't and then what I most preferred.

Here's a tease on the detail going into the build, below is for separating the base section with two tiers.
These are due to the isolation platform design and to give the rig added structural stability. Also because having an interesting look is one of the goals, perhaps this hint of red with the chrome adds a richness and striking with different lighting. For me personally, compared to 8020 rigs, well while nice and functional, I find these are now becoming so common and a tad dull or boring.

I'm kinda glad now I dropped the idea of building just another 8020 rectangle.
Trying to be creative and for my rig to shake things up a bit.

​

 

[Mr Latte]

@Brutal Deluxe

Any info with availability on these?

Also found this

 

[TLouis]

Does anyone have experience with these (or equivalent)?

PROZOR Stereo Audio Amplifier 2 Channel Mini Hi-Fi: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics

Free delivery and returns on eligible orders. Buy PROZOR Stereo Audio Amplifier 2 Channel Mini Hi-Fi Class D Integrated Amp Digital Power Amplifier with Bass and Treble Control for Home Speakers 50W + 50W at Amazon UK.

www.amazon.co.uk

Thinking of using one of these to drive a pair of Dayton Audio BST-1 shakers.

 

[EsxPaul]

@Mr Latte I like the concept of tubular framework being attached to a seat to distribute and target more sections of the body and if you ever get the time, would you be able to go into some more detail?

I keep looking at my bucket seat and scratching my head, wondering how the heck I would ever couple those tubes to a seat. I did notice (guess) in some of your previous pictures what look to be sections of amtech heavy duty suction cups attaching the tubing to the backrest. Is that the way it can be done or would some hard mounting be required in addition?

 

[Mr Latte]

@Mr Latte I like the concept of tubular framework being attached to a seat to distribute and target more sections of the body and if you ever get the time, would you be able to go into some more detail?

I keep looking at my bucket seat and scratching my head, wondering how the heck I would ever couple those tubes to a seat. I did notice (guess) in some of your previous pictures what look to be sections of amtech heavy duty suction cups attaching the tubing to the backrest. Is that the way it can be done or would some hard mounting be required in addition?

Hard mounting with a bucket seat is possible by removing the foam padding. My own seat for the back I can't do that so the suction cups combined with VHB will hold them in place.

The more difficult part with bucket seats is maybe not so much aligning/drilling holes but dealing with the mold/curve and angle of the seat underneath for the front/rear. Is it possible yes certainly, One day I will share with someone a few of my own ideas or possible options? It's getting someone that is serious about doing it

My own seat even though it has a strong steel inner frame uses the same idea because very simply it works and improves the delivery of the tactile to where you want it more than just direct bolting or using seat rails or seat mounts.

 

[JohnBeardmore]

Regarding seats. If the aim is body contact then I thought about moulding a seat to my shape. Racing seats are done this way with expanding foam in a big bag. Fill the bag with expanding foam,sit in it and let it set to your shape. That would be it for a race seat. But we would need a grp mould making from the foam shape then a seat laying up from the mould with whatever steel reinforcement as required.
That is too much work for me at this present time though.

 

[Brutal Deluxe]

@Brutal Deluxe

Any info with availability on these?

Also found this

I've looked in to them briefly. The 3M Vibration Damping tape is like a self adhesive foil tape. From it's construction, you wouldn't expect it to work but apparently does. Not cheap though, you're looking around £165 for a 50mm*33m roll!

Not familiar with the insulation stuff. I'm guessing it could be for higher frequencies, but could be wrong. Be aware that 3M are buggers for only releasing products in certain regions.

 

[Allyngr]

Quick question: how exactly would you recommend I attach two buttkicker Mini LFEs to a fibreglass race seat please? I am guessing they would be below the seat rather on the vertical rear, and what sort or bolts/washers etc do you suggest or have found to be the best from experience?

I grabbed 4 lfes on Facebook yesterday, hadn’t intended to go this route but it was a good price. Reading this thread and I see that rather than one per corner of the rig it’s suggested to put two on the seat and one for the pedals? With the fourth I was considering also mounting it on the seat, on the rear vertical to handle gear shifts and engine revs, but as the mini LFE doesn’t go down to 5hz perhaps this is pointless and could instead also go on pedals, so one for tyre lock / slide and one for road feel? Any suggestions other than this approach for what to do with 4 mini LFE please?

 

[EsxPaul]

can you snap a pic of the specs (or share what’s written) on the PSU once you receive it?

@fasterbater FYI, regarding the psu that came supplied with the t.racks DSP mini

 

[vanka472]

So I am following in the footsteps of many before me, by doing the 8 transducer setup on my seat. Meanwhile, while I wait for my amps to arrive (ordered a month ago, but I have a feeling its gonna take MUCH longer than that) I wanted to play with some ideas. I found the same amp on amazon for about $5 more than what I paid for on Aliexpress, so I was thinking of picking one up and a few extra DAEX32EP-4 to mess around with so I could get an idea of how to use simhub and start tuning in frequencies and whatnot.

My question is, where are some good places to try testing these? I have really liked the idea of putting on possibly on the H pattern shifter (or more so on the profile that it sits on) to get a more aggressive shifting feel. Would this possibly be a good idea? Or should I place these on my pedal deck and start with the idea of feeling tire movement? I think in the long run a Big BK will end up on the pedals as the rumble of the car is as important as the car dynamics to me. Is it worth maybe doing both, by placing the exciters under each respective pedal and then doing the BK in another fashion connected to that area?

I know Mr. Latte had played with the idea of putting a BK under each pedal, but that with the cost of the amp (s) pushes me well out of my price range atm. So I wanted to get some insight from anyone else who has used and placed these exciters in other places.

 

[Allyngr]

Okay, first thing to clarify....
Many here still use Simvibe as their primary tactile software, I dont know if you are...

Channel Configurations & Effects Management
One of the biggest annoyances with Simvibe is that a user had to define a CM / EM or both type configuration. They then were restricted to saving profiles based on whatever configuration they were created in. An EM set of channels (via secondary card, duh) also is limited to certain effects and not offering all the effects/options that the CM configuration has.

With Simhub and Shakeit Bass Shaker (SBS)
A user can alter/change/modify on the fly what effects go where and fully use a soundcard for all its channels. We are not restricted in ways Simvibe is. What you will be able to do is change at will and make different profiles on what effects operate on whatever channels you like. Simvibe is also limited to 7 channels (via dual cards). Shakeit can support multiple cards and multiple channels with the limitation being the users budget, creativity or desire.

This was a feature I requested and the developer kindly added. This also brings independent volume control "per effect" on the channels you want it operating and on a single screen layout. Its a breath of fresh air over Simvibes limitations with 4 channels per card, setting up configurations and several effects limited only to CM mode.


Improved Stereo Effects
As for your seat. Well no need to cut it in half, I think we can go too far, the way of improving stereo effects on the seat is by adding body zones. Shoulders, sides, lower spine and underneath the knees. I have even tested with effects also going to forearms over several months of experimentation. Some of this I have shared a little on in this thread over the last year or so but it is the direction my own rig build is using and based not on theory, but on how the testing itself went.

So by adding more body regions, it will enhance the effects detailing but it is ideal for increasing stereo positioning as well. We then combine this with the pedals and these improved to have better channel separation (mentioned above). With pedals, we have much less body mass we can use (generally feet only) so here yes it is more important to split the pedal platform for improved L/R.


Best Bumps Etc / Energy Vs Detailing
Someone with say an SFX motion can have really powerful positional bumps, from the motions tactile. Sure I bet it's exciting and rather good but all its energy moves freely over the entire rig and will enter the seat/pedals typically from underneath. For me personally, what it does not do is enter the user from multiple body zones, these controlled and determined by the user, how the user wants them output. That is something (my own build will offer) and we can do via tactile, as well as shape/mold the Hz used to create felt sensations to what we want/like. So with audio/tone generation we have more control than I assume what (various motion) tactile settings/controls may offer. I guess when I build an SFX I can better compare each but this is how I see each option in how they can work. My goal with tactile is to have very good effects created and these placed to whatever body regions I want them or how their energy is displaced over all the units.

Attaching Large Units Direct To Seat Tub
When installing the larger units direct to a seat, consider some sticky back soft padding (few mm thick) it may help to reduce some reverb certain Hz will generate with the seat. Some tub seats have an issue with @70-80Hz (my carbon-based back does). Then use rubber washers and socket cap load spreading cone washers (ebay).

As you went with DSP based amp (wise man), you can EQ any reverb or issues certain effects or Hz will create at specific dB. This just needs some playing about with the EQ and Crossover control.

Thanks Mr Latte: found this on about page 63, just what I was looking for

 

[H Bingham]

Hi guys,

Newbie here. I'm probably going to do that annoying thing where I ask questions that have already been asked; admittedly I've not read all 133 pages, I have tried doing some reading and gone back to page 127, hopefully that's a reasonable enough effort.

I dived in at the deep end bought 4 Buttkicker Mini LFEs and now they're staring at me waiting to be attached to my rig and computer. I want to achieve front left, front right, back left, and back right feedback, but would settle for front and back feedback initially if it's more sensible to do this in stages/budget limiting.

As I understand I will need:
- At least one amplifier, maybe two, maybe four.
- Cables to connect the Butt Kickers to the amp;
- Cables to connect the amp to the PC;
- Maybe a sound card;
- Hopefully I'm not missing anything?

So let's address each of these items in order:
Amp:
- I've seen the Behringer iNuke NU1000 mentioned a lot. I can get my hands on one of these relatively cheaply, but I understand this will only be sufficient to provide me front and back as it is two channel? Also, is it not overkill? I believe the Mini LFEs handle up to 250w max and so we've got 500w of headroom. Could I not for the same/similar price as get two 500w two channels amps, or four 250w amps giving me the four corner feedback I am looking for? Also, what is the relationship between Watts and Ohms? It seems the iNuke for example can do 2 x 520 watts into 2 Ohms, or 2 x 300 Watts in 4 Ohms. What attributes am I looking for to make sure I can fully power my Mini LFEs? Can you guys recommend any alternatives to the iNuke that are less expensive that will meet my needs and enable me to get four corners running instead of just the two?
Cables:
- I guess this could potentially be dependant on which amp I get, or are they all the same?
Sound card:
- I do not have a soundcard. However, I use VR when racing and so sound is sent via the HDMI cable to my headset. When I am not in VR (e.g. playing other games) I use the SPDIF out optical port to connect to a wireless headset. If needed this could be unplugged. So on the back of my motherboard this potentially gives me (please forgive the non technical terms):
-- SPDIF out;
--Black jack port;
--Orange "CSUB" jack port;
--Red "Mic In" jack port;
--Green "Line Out" jack port;
--Blue "Line In" jack port;
--I also have a two jack ports on the front of my PC labelled as headset and microphone.
-Based on the above do I need a soundcard? If it helps my motherboard is a ASUS PRIME Z390-A Intel Socket 1151 Motherboard
- This is taken from my MB manual:

Hopefully that gives you an idea of what I'm trying to do, appreciate there's a lot but I wanted to try and be as specific as I could and show I've done of my own research as well before coming here.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Ernesto Romero]

Hi mates. How good/bad is a Behringer KM750 to move a Buttkicker LFE ? I know that yuo recommend the NX1000D but the budget is importat for me.
Thx in advance

 

[H Bingham]

Hi guys,

Newbie here. I'm probably going to do that annoying thing where I ask questions that have already been asked; admittedly I've not read all 133 pages, I have tried doing some reading and gone back to page 127, hopefully that's a reasonable enough effort.

I dived in at the deep end bought 4 Buttkicker Mini LFEs and now they're staring at me waiting to be attached to my rig and computer. I want to achieve front left, front right, back left, and back right feedback, but would settle for front and back feedback initially if it's more sensible to do this in stages/budget limiting.

As I understand I will need:
- At least one amplifier, maybe two, maybe four.
- Cables to connect the Butt Kickers to the amp;
- Cables to connect the amp to the PC;
- Maybe a sound card;
- Hopefully I'm not missing anything?

So let's address each of these items in order:
Amp:
- I've seen the Behringer iNuke NU1000 mentioned a lot. I can get my hands on one of these relatively cheaply, but I understand this will only be sufficient to provide me front and back as it is two channel? Also, is it not overkill? I believe the Mini LFEs handle up to 250w max and so we've got 500w of headroom. Could I not for the same/similar price as get two 500w two channels amps, or four 250w amps giving me the four corner feedback I am looking for? Also, what is the relationship between Watts and Ohms? It seems the iNuke for example can do 2 x 520 watts into 2 Ohms, or 2 x 300 Watts in 4 Ohms. What attributes am I looking for to make sure I can fully power my Mini LFEs? Can you guys recommend any alternatives to the iNuke that are less expensive that will meet my needs and enable me to get four corners running instead of just the two?
Cables:
- I guess this could potentially be dependant on which amp I get, or are they all the same?
Sound card:
- I do not have a soundcard. However, I use VR when racing and so sound is sent via the HDMI cable to my headset. When I am not in VR (e.g. playing other games) I use the SPDIF out optical port to connect to a wireless headset. If needed this could be unplugged. So on the back of my motherboard this potentially gives me (please forgive the non technical terms):
-- SPDIF out;
--Black jack port;
--Orange "CSUB" jack port;
--Red "Mic In" jack port;
--Green "Line Out" jack port;
--Blue "Line In" jack port;
--I also have a two jack ports on the front of my PC labelled as headset and microphone.
-Based on the above do I need a soundcard? If it helps my motherboard is a ASUS PRIME Z390-A Intel Socket 1151 Motherboard
- This is taken from my MB manual: View attachment 380781

Hopefully that gives you an idea of what I'm trying to do, appreciate there's a lot but I wanted to try and be as specific as I could and show I've done of my own research as well before coming here.

Thanks in advance!

Okay, so further reading tells me that the four corner set up is a pointless endeavour without additional work to isolate the pedals which makes complete sense, and in hindsight should have been obvious.

As such, I guess at this moment in time I will settle for front and back feedback.

As a result should I pull the trigger on Behringer iNuke NU1000? (It's £110 is this a decent price?) or is there a better option new? Will this limit me to just two butt kickers (one front, one back) or will I be able to run all four (two front and two back but with no stereo separation?)

 

[graham123]

Need some help... I have a butt kicker gamer2 , but want to run front and rear shakers, I brought a 200watt car amp and 2 Vidsonix Phantom 4.25 inch tactile audio transducers, but did'nt get the punch i was after.. so how do I run the gamer and the car amp from the same sound card?? as when I tried it in simhub the Gamer takes both L/R channels another thing is my card is an oboard 5.1 surround sound but sets up as a 2channel High def audio?
ANY HELP PLEASE