Tactile Immersion - General Discussion - Hardware & Software

[Zolazem]

Hi,

I've read a fair bit from this very interesting and informative thread (not all of it though )

I've got a BK Concert and am going to pair it to an NX3000D (1 channel - non bridged) and mount under my seat on my P1X.

I read before (but cant find it now) there is quieter fan I can use to replace the loud one in the 3000. Does anyone have a link please?

Regarding output and levels, can someone also recommend a USB soundcard that will work happily with SRS, and whether is is necessary for the convert the output to +4dBu for the 3000 input?

Many thanks

Actually changed mine today, also a NX3000D

Noktua NF-A8 FLX

there are some vids on YouTube with instructions.

 

[EsxPaul]

I read before (but cant find it now) there is quieter fan I can use to replace the loud one in the 3000. Does anyone have a link please?

The recommended replacement fan is the Noctua NF-R8 redux-1800 PWM or equivalent, going from the information from Mr. Latte in this post

 

[Zolazem]

New glue part on the connector i didn’t do. The amp stays where it stands.

 

[FireWithin]

Actually changed mine today, also a NX3000D

Noktua NF-A8 FLX

there are some vids on YouTube with instructions.View attachment 435087View attachment 435087

I own the same amp, even tho I consider the original fan lourd, Im using it for sim racing only and with headphone so I DONT hear it!

I'm curious is there many here not racing with headphone? or using the amp in other application? Thanks for sharing.

Cheers!

 

[Callsign BH]

Any tutorial videos on how to cut the SpeakOn cable in half and connect the banana plug things?

While I wait for the NX3000D to get off back order and ship, I guess I could knock that out when time allows.

 

[anton_Chez]

Gone back and checked the wiring of the SpeakOn cables. They appear to be correct, as I stressed over getting the right terminals the first time that I did it. They are hard to read but it's definitely done to how I understand are proper. Positive to 1+, negative to 1-. 2+ and 2- are left empty.

Both tactile units fail to output. I have tried setting to Stereo and Dual modes on the amp, neither of them make any difference at all. Which one, by the way, should I have it on? It probably doesn't matter with only a single unit connected anyway, would it?

So now, the obvious question remains. Is the amp DOA? It picks up input as we have already established. I've never gotten a single thing to come out of it though. I'll flick through the set up guide to see if I've missed something but I have no other option to test before assuming that it's just not going to work at all.

EDIT: Put every volume slider and knob up to 100. I can now hear response from the units, both of them. Not sure why it took so much power to get anything out of the amp though. If I run my little amps at that level things start to break and they are WAY less powerful than the NX1000D.

 

[coote66]

Holy mega threads, I've got some reading to do!

Currently waitimg on 4 Daytona Audio TT25-8 pucks to arrive. Very cheap, but figured it's a good way to feel this out, plus I can play around with 4 channel vs the simple seat and pedals layout.

I know I'll be able to isolate my seat quite easily, but as my pedals are mounted direct to the frame without a plate, and I've barely got a spare millimetre above my toes, they could be tricky.

Power is coming from what feels like an unusual source based on what I've seen, but I beleive it should be a pretty good option.

Grabbed a used Yamaha AVR you'd usually see in home theatre set ups. It should allow me to pass multiple channels of info from the PC via one HDMI cable and retain the PC's onboard sound for my headphones. I suspect it'll have no drama pushing the required watts either, though is probably a little bulky compared to some solutions.

Anyway, off to do some reading for now and will pop back later with some questions I'm sure!

 

[Mr Latte]

Gone back and checked the wiring of the SpeakOn cables. They appear to be correct, as I stressed over getting the right terminals the first time that I did it. They are hard to read but it's definitely done to how I understand are proper. Positive to 1+, negative to 1-. 2+ and 2- are left empty.

Both tactile units fail to output. I have tried setting to Stereo and Dual modes on the amp, neither of them make any difference at all. Which one, by the way, should I have it on? It probably doesn't matter with only a single unit connected anyway, would it?

So now, the obvious question remains. Is the amp DOA? It picks up input as we have already established. I've never gotten a single thing to come out of it though. I'll flick through the set up guide to see if I've missed something but I have no other option to test before assuming that it's just not going to work at all.

EDIT: Put every volume slider and knob up to 100. I can now hear response from the units, both of them. Not sure why it took so much power to get anything out of the amp though. If I run my little amps at that level things start to break and they are WAY less powerful than the NX1000D.

Yeah I pretty much thought you would of taken time to do that correct.

These are not typical household amps the DSP is important to check what settings are currently set. If you loaded the original preset then that would of put all settings to default. Then the user can configure the amp to suit the hardware it is using. Personally I always use the software to configure the amp and never the front panel.

Also read the manual the front knobs are not traditional volume controls. They are input level gain (increasing the source input level). Mostly ideal at 12 or 1pm position. The primary amplification gain is altered in the crossover section which allows up to 12dB to be applied over the curve used. The total output is defined with the input level, the wattage limiter (if set) and then crossover settings. It’s not a plug and play amp as these are pro audio based hardware.

In fairness we have seen a couple of instances that an amp is faulty here. It can be stressful too but this and it’s predecessor are one of the most used amps for tactile. We see very little failures and some have been using them for years..

Looks like a replacement is needed to get you up and running but shouldn’t take long.

 

[EsxPaul]

Any tutorial videos on how to cut the SpeakOn cable in half and connect the banana plug things?

While I wait for the NX3000D to get off back order and ship, I guess I could knock that out when time allows.

This is a good guide to help with cutting and stripping the Speakon wire

When I did mine, I just experimented with getting the correct lengths of exposed + & - wires so that the two banana plugs wouldn't be under any strain once spread apart and plugged in.

 

[Mr Latte]

Holy mega threads, I've got some reading to do!

Currently waitimg on 4 Daytona Audio TT25-8 pucks to arrive. Very cheap, but figured it's a good way to feel this out, plus I can play around with 4 channel vs the simple seat and pedals layout.

I know I'll be able to isolate my seat quite easily, but as my pedals are mounted direct to the frame without a plate, and I've barely got a spare millimetre above my toes, they could be tricky.

Power is coming from what feels like an unusual source based on what I've seen, but I beleive it should be a pretty good option.

Grabbed a used Yamaha AVR you'd usually see in home theatre set ups. It should allow me to pass multiple channels of info from the PC via one HDMI cable and retain the PC's onboard sound for my headphones. I suspect it'll have no drama pushing the required watts either, though is probably a little bulky compared to some solutions.

Anyway, off to do some reading for now and will pop back later with some questions I'm sure!

Ahem, does Simhub support multichannel digital over HDMI?
I believe we need old school analog multichannel inputs on such amps to get more than 2 channels working as one source input. Those were outdated long ago when HDMI became popular.

 

[blekenbleu]

Ahem, does Simhub support multichannel digital over HDMI?

"hdmi can have induced latency"

 

[Mr Latte]

"hdmi can have induced latency"

Yes that's another issue but simply HDMI isn't a valid option to use.

 

[Mr Latte]

Any tutorial videos on how to cut the SpeakOn cable in half and connect the banana plug things?

While I wait for the NX3000D to get off back order and ship, I guess I could knock that out when time allows.

Plenty of videos on YT for wiring cables but banana plugs are easy, though can vary in quality so look for some comparison videos on them. Parts Express used to sell some quite good ones and other budget options.

 

[coote66]

Baffling.
Why on earth would a program care where it fires its signal. Likely something simple I've not considered, but assumed it's firing a sound output and doesn't care where to. Also, that post listed above suggests that Hdmi was working for shakers, though with significant lag.

Either way...Few extra cables, but should still be able to use the hardware. Will run the component sound from MBO into the amp and may have to run the headphones from my VR headset.

 

[anton_Chez]

Looks like a replacement is needed to get you up and running but shouldn’t take long.

I edited my last post but it probably didn't spike a notification so you may not have seen it. I got signal coming from the units now. I think based on what you're last message mentioned coupled with what I did, it makes sense why I was not getting anything. There was simply not enough gain going to the units. I put everything at MAX and I finally got feedback.

So what I've done now is bridged the 2 channels to power the Earthquake and put the Mini LFE's back on the smaller amp as it was before. I will now go through the guide as I need to work out how to increase the dB in the EQ section., I've got the software running, lucky my HE Pedals have a B type USB connector so I can just swap that in and out as I need it. I'll look into increasing the gain and limiting the wattage. I think I already did that but I will read the guide to make sure I'm not missing anything.

For now, I've set both knobs to 12pm position. In bridged mode, it seems that moving either knob changes the gain. Multiplicative by the looks of it.

 

[Mr Latte]

Baffling.
Why on earth would a program care where it fires its signal. Likely something simple I've not considered, but assumed it's firing a sound output and doesn't care where to. Also, that post listed above suggests that Hdmi was working for shakers, though with significant lag.

Either way...Few extra cables, but should still be able to use the hardware. Will run the component sound from MBO into the amp and may have to run the headphones from my VR headset.

More likely to do with licensing eg Dolby / DTS encoding/decoding.
HDMI can also introduce lag with the analog/digital conversion.

Looks like that Yamaha model does still have the "MultiChannel Inputs" so you can use multiple RCA cables for each channel from the soundcard into the amp. This has limitations as on most amps the signal is routed directly to the amplification. So no bass/treble or processing is possible on the amp when using Multichannel In.

One other factor related to AV amps is that not all support 4ohms which most tactile units use.
You are fine with the 8ohm pucks though.

 

[coote66]

Yep, not how I'd planned, but still very doable. Just a little tired of the number of cables on this sim/pc now. Haha.


I'd suspected any tuning would be easier done on the PC side anyway. Plan to have this doing nothing more than providing the power.

Will start plugging in and testing just as soon as the pucks arrive.

 

[Callsign BH]

Many EsxPaul thanks, really appreciate it!

Mr Latte, I bought these ones (which you had provided a link to previously, I think on Discord?): https://www.parts-express.com/banana-speaker-plug-2-pair--091-1260

 

[Callsign BH]

Delete

 

[Mr Latte]

Yep, not how I'd planned, but still very doable. Just a little tired of the number of cables on this sim/pc now. Haha.


I'd suspected any tuning would be easier done on the PC side anyway. Plan to have this doing nothing more than providing the power.

Will start plugging in and testing just as soon as the pucks arrive.

Yes apply changes at the source level but sometimes amps with individual volumes for the channels are useful
Dont talk about cables, lol. I'm working towards a configuration using up to 38 channels for tactile and audio.