The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[Ringorian]

Which Phone number did u use ?

 

[Specialist68]

Which Phone number did u use ?[/QUOTE
+49 (0)5402 407350 copy paste from their website

 

[saxxon66]

You cannot copy and paste this number.
If you're calling from ouside of Germany you need to skip the first zero, therefore the zero was written in parentheses.

 

[BluePotato00]

My rear-right SFX-100 nicely doubles as an Oculus Rift hook/stand:

 

[primi]

HugoB, is this an official P1 perhaps? I'm asking because you have made some changes with the pedal section by the looks of it. I happen to be looking at P1 myself (and it's your fault ) and those levers are supposed to be on the other side. How did you make the seat section wider? Or was the pedal section made narrower?

 

[MADShootStuff]

Something just occurred to me...
My Kinetik delay may be a problem with US Customs. With the government shutdown they're likely running on skeleton crews... Might have gotten unlucky and got a backed up entry point. Hard to tell though.

 

[sjb266]

I want not to spoiled the forum but,
multiple post are going about the only supplier we have for ever reason is not willing
To supply the aluminium profiles and we have no other supplier with " Exact " the same profile
Thus all the 3D parts are useless because the bolting holes and the " slider wil not fit "

And I know it because i was going trough the whole proces over and over again!

www.over-exaggeration.com

 

[metalnwood]

@primi From memory he cut the length of the pedal extrusion.

I am going to do the same so that when my son wants to have a go I am able to move the pedals without them interfering with where the front actuator is mounted

 

[primi]

Yeah, looks like a good solution. You probably don't want those actuators mounted too far towards the front to clear the pedal section. That was going to be my question at some point. Does it make a difference if you mount them at the extremes or is it better to have them closer to the seat? The front ones at least because at the back they are pretty close anyway. Or would it make sense to move the rear ones further away even? Is there any experience with regards this question?

 

[HugoB]

HugoB, is this an official P1 perhaps? I'm asking because you have made some changes with the pedal section by the looks of it. I happen to be looking at P1 myself (and it's your fault ) and those levers are supposed to be on the other side. How did you make the seat section wider? Or was the pedal section made narrower?

Yup, got them cut the pedal deck profiles need to be cut 100 mm shorter so the whole pedal deck fits on the inside. Ask Sim-Lab to cut them for you

See my previous post:
https://www.racedepartment.com/thre...-simulator-thread.159524/page-94#post-2896985

My only concern with the P1 is that your seating position is rather high with regards to the SFX100 actuators. Apparently the lower you can get it, the better. So I'm considering to descend the whole seat into the main frame eventually. I can see this will fit, it's just that I can then no longer use the seat slider for guests. But the pedal deck remains adjustable.

A tip if you are considering to buy the P1 and have an OSW or are considering one in the future: get the front mount. First I mounted my OSW to the wheel deck by adding some holes, but I found there to be rotational bending slack on the whole wheel deck. This annoyed the sh*t out of me because it was the only slack in my whole rig, so I got the front mount: it's absolute granite rock solid. This rig now officially feels like it's made of one piece cast iron, to the last bit.

Also, if you're considering a harness, you can get these to attach it to your rig:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01H9FALOS
Like this, with some M8 slot nuts that you have plenty of from Sim-Lab:

A harness really transformed the motion, for me. When I'm strapped in tightly, the seat now also pulls me back (not only pushes forward, like without a harness). It keeps me attached to the seat, so to speak.

And if you're considering a Buttkicker, the pedal deck is a nice and easy place to mount it to!

(Sorry for off topic guys, guess I'm just really stoked about my rig and the racing hobby that I have become totally addicted to and feel the need to share because no one else is interested at home )

 

[GEEDOGG]

@HugoB Are your your seat belts attached at 4 different locations on your rig?

 

[HoiHman]

Love your rig Hugo, it's so nice and tidy. Great work.

About nobody at home being interested, if feel your pain brother. You know you're not the only one

 

[HugoB]

@HugoB Are your your seat belts attached at 4 different locations on your rig?

Yes, an eyebolt for every mounting point (6 total). It was a quick solution and works great. I thought they would be rattling when racing with motion, but they don't because I have the harness tightened.

 

[HugoB]

Love your rig Hugo, it's so nice and tidy. Great work.

About nobody at home being interested, if feel your pain brother. You know you're not the only one

Thanks Henk! It's the result of merciless scrutiny from my wife, she had to approve of every step involved... because my rig is in the living room

Yea it's a lovely place here on RD, lot's of inspiring rigs around to gawk at

 

[GEEDOGG]

Yes, an eyebolt for every mounting point (6 total). It was a quick solution and works great. I thought they would be rattling when racing with motion, but they don't because I have the harness tightened.

Thanks I may have to add a harness to the rig now lol.

 

[BluePotato00]

SFX-100 has rattled my first bolt loose on my rig.

Found a bolt on the ground near the rear of my rig. It was a rear seat rail mount. Wonder if I'm going to have to Loc-tite all my bolts over time?

 

[RowanH]

Yeah mine's firmly in my garage/man cave no way on this green earth it would be allowed in the house. Nice work @Hugo B !

Thought you gents might be interested, I'm doing up a tutorial for newbies on SimFeedback, and did a data comparison of actuator movement of two cars in AC, running up through the gears on the front straight of Silverstone and then going into the run off area at T1. Quite cool the logging feature.

 

[sjb266]

Yeah mine's firmly in my garage/man cave no way on this green earth it would be allowed in the house. Nice work @Hugo B !


View attachment 287781

We're just about to start building a new house and I insisted I get a dedicated room downstairs for my toys - My rigs... and I literally have a Disney Pixar Cars collection totalling about 600+ pieces all new in the box!

 

[anton_Chez]

Nice to see you got the OSW @HugoB. You'll love it.

@sjb266 That's highly recommended. I can't tell you how free I've felt since building the room downstairs. I always had plans for it at some stage when I initially purchased the land. I didn't think it was going to be for me though! It's been awesome having that space and I feel super lucky that even after everything was built I still had the capacity to carve out a little piece for me after I met and married my wife. It's worked out so well and I never feel like I'm kicked into a dodgy part of the house. I love it. I'm very lucky.

I think the whole Kinetic thing has been blown a little out of proportion. For all we know it's the shipping, post leaving their possession, that's the cause. That said, two things come to mind. Yes, we probably should be proactive and keep an open mind regarding a suitable replacement or alternative should we need it. Second being the shipping. International customers are paying decent money for the shipping and if they are sending it povo style then that's probably something that shouldn't be happening. After all, DHL can't be taking forever for everyone's items, so if they've sent it super economy that's reason for annoyance.

 

[Mascot]

I think the whole Kinetic thing has been blown a little out of proportion. For all we know it's the shipping, post leaving their possession, that's the cause. That said, two things come to mind. Yes, we probably should be proactive and keep an open mind regarding a suitable replacement or alternative should we need it. Second being the shipping. International customers are paying decent money for the shipping and if they are sending it povo style then that's probably something that shouldn't be happening. After all, DHL can't be taking forever for everyone's items, so if they've sent it super economy that's reason for annoyance.

They are slow to react for sure, but my biggest complaint is the total lack of transparency and their non-existent comms. There's simply no excuse for ignoring emails from customers in 2019. If I wasn't aware of this thread and how poor Kinetic have been in this regard (for pretty much everyone here?) then, after two weeks of nothing and multiple unanswered emails, I'd have opened a PayPal or VISA dispute to get my money back, thinking I'd been scammed. It's not good service no matter how grateful we are that they are the only supplier of a vital component.

Anyway, my goods are now on the way but if it wasn't for this thread I'd have had a very uncomfortable few weeks of hassle. There must be lots of worried SFX builders who AREN'T aware how lethargic and uncommunicative Kinetic are.