The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html
 
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I must say that my profiles from Kintetik were the best packed and cleanest (almost 0 aluminum chips) of any profiles I have ever ordered / received.

I checked them and they look absolutely spotless from all sides I can currently inspect (they are taped together in pairs so I cannot see one side of each panel - I am not spliting them ATM).

IMAG0268c_resize.jpg
IMAG0272_resize.jpg


BTW they are so tiny :)
 
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What are people with a Rift doing for motion cancellation if any? I read on another forum it was no longer possible with the Rift, is this true? I am having to hit my recenter hmd button a few times per lap at points in races which is very annoying.

This has been a frustrating issue for some of us although there are, I believe, two distinct flavours to it, with workarounds for each.

1. VR display 'skipping' slightly off centre (vertically and horizontally) and frequently
2. VR display suddenly re-centering, (usually on the vertical plane), but far less frequently

I've certainly experienced both but have, through reading up and a fair amount of 'trial and error' managed, (fingers crossed), to sort them out.

Typically, I would suggest that the main culprits are either a. USB-related and / or b. motion / sensor position related, caused by the intensity of chassis motion and its impact upon the Rift's ability to track. The latter is also far more likely to be an issue where your sensor is mounted on the rig, which mine is as I prefer the immersion it provides in VR.

There is also a shout that EMI, (both within your electrical circuit and airborne) and generated by the motor controllers and servos, could be a potential issue so, in the first instance, it is considered good practice to try and run your motor controllers from their own, dedicated plug socket / circuit and not off of an extension lead supporting other devices. I've also wired in a netfilter to the motor controllers power lead to help prevent / reduce EMI entering my electrical circuit and sleeved the cables. In addition try and keep any unshielded device cables away from the servos and their cables, even if by only a few centimetres. FWIW I have no idea whether any of this makes a blind bit of difference or whether it's even necessary but I adopted a 'belt and braces' approach in trying to find solutions, just to be on the safe side.

Anyway, back to the issue at hand. :)

1. VR display 'skipping' slightly off centre (vertically and horizontally) and on a frequent basis

a. If you are running two Oculus sensors, try running just the one.

b. Decrease intensity levels within SimFeedback (Just to see if this is in any way contributory)

c. Try running your Oculus Rift and sensor requirements off of a different USB port or powered hub. Mine are plugged in to their own Inatek USB3.0 PCI card without any other device attached. All other devices run off of a second Inatek card, a powered hub or my PC's motherboard. That may well be complete overkill and not at all necessary in a lot of individual cases but properly balancing all of the USB devices seems to be fairly critical for some of us and taking some time to do this can certainly pay dividends.

2. VR display suddenly re-centering (usually on the vertical plane) but far less frequently

This, I believe, is typically caused by a momentary loss of tracking between the sensor and headset especially when a circuit has fairly significant elevation changes, or bumps and kerbs, or you are are really heavy on the brakes, all of which result in sudden, fast actuator movements. (You might not feel it but if you get a chance to stand outside the rig and watch someone else driving, you'll be surprised how much movement there is and how quick it can be) I believe however that this is far more prone to happen where the Oculus sensor is rig-mounted and I've certainly experienced it albeit on ad-hoc, but still frustrating and immersion-breaking, occasions. Interestingly, the view did tend to reset itself back to centre quite quickly thereafter, (suggesting tracking had been lost and then found again), unless I managed to push my own re-centre button first!

Hopefully though I've now resolved this by moving my single sensor, (rig mounted), further back than it was so that it has a wider field of view to track my HMD and within a larger 'sweet spot.' Looking at it logically, apart from extending the boundaries of tracking, I would think that this increased 'sweet spot' provides a little more leeway when it comes to handling the speed of movement that the sensor and HMD sometimes has to react to. I've experimented with this distance on a number of occasions now and after doing so again at the weekend, my sensor is now 90 cm from my HMD and 30 cm above my eyeline and I've not experienced a single problem with re-centering since. And I've certainly deliberately tried to provoke it in to doing so! :D Time will tell I suppose.

Good luck!
 
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This has been a frustrating issue for some of us although there are, I believe, two distinct flavours to it, with workarounds for each.

1. VR display 'skipping' slightly off centre (vertically and horizontally) and frequently
2. VR display suddenly re-centering, (usually on the vertical plane), but far less frequently

3. Samsung Ultra Ultra Ultra Wide!
 
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Meh .. VR.. that's so 2018.. I'm back on the old mega ultra super wide Samsung screen... Loooooooving it!

PS: This message was written under the influence of Beam Devil's Cut ... my opinions are subject to change without notice!
People still race in 2D with their sim room visible around the edges of the screen? How quaint!
;)
 
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I must say that my profiles from Kintetik were the best packed and cleanest (almost 0 aluminum chips) of any profiles I have ever ordered / received.

I checked them and they look absolutely spotless from all sides I can currently inspect (they are taped together in pairs so I cannot see one side of each panel - I am not spliting them ATM).

View attachment 291227 View attachment 291228

BTW they are so tiny :)
Tip - keep the sections strapped together... makes them easier to handle when putting the inserts in.
 
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Apparently some people have airborne EMI problems, on the German forum a dude wrapped aluminum foil around the SFX100 motor wires and all of a sudden his problems disappeared... I know from my OSW research that people used to have lots of similar EMI issues with OSW but now most OSW kits are sold with high quality fully shielded wires. Maybe before you go insane, try to shield your SFX100 motor wires... And definitely install a netfilter before the SFX100 motor controllers, because also on the German forum people have reported strange things, that disappeared after installing a netfilter. Better err on the safe side? My system is running absolutely fine at the moment, but I had to try lots of different USB cables (some where apparently better shielded) and different USB plugs.
 
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Getting rid of the rig mounted 35" has been awesome. Ever since I did, I never get the feeling I'm going to break something, or hear things in the background shaking or rattling when I'm driving with the motion going. I used to always have fear that something was going to snap. But it might be me just getting used to the movement now after using it for a while. I think it's a bit of both.

Did 3 short races tonight and no tracking issues whatsoever. Also no FFB cutting out after I'd swapped the OSW USB port. It's now in my powered 2.0 hub.

Pimax should be here super soon, any day hopefully. Funnily enough I am in the best place with the Rift that I've ever been. It's been so easy to deal with lately and the virtual desktop has removed the need to have the screen up at all if the title supports VR. I'll most likely keep both for a while. Can't afford to have issues with the new headset with leagues going on.
 
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ONE VR center reset later on tonight...... AC, COTA track.

Hmm, it's very strange. There is elevation there too. It must affect it badly. It completely breaks immersion.

Oh well, Samsung ULTRA ULTRA ULTRA wide it is...... :thumbsup:
 
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ONE VR center reset later on tonight...... AC, COTA track.

Hmm, it's very strange. There is elevation there too. It must affect it badly. It completely breaks immersion.

Oh well, Samsung ULTRA ULTRA ULTRA wide it is...... :thumbsup:

Anton,

Download Sensor Bounds to see what your sensor sees and help you find the best placement. Might not help but a useful tool regardless, at least until you replace the Rift with the Pimax.:)

Either search from the Oculus store when you launch Homeless or grab here.

https://www.oculus.com/experiences/rift/1682666568488584/

I'm also wondering what the result would be if you used two sensors, one on and one off the rig? No idea how tracking would compensate but no harm in trying I suppose!
 
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For those with the Oculus Rift CV1 who are having problems I would make the suggestion to try only having one sensor plugged in and to go through setup again. Two sensors or more are needed for larger areas (tracking volume), multiple devices (headset and the two handheld controllers with sensor occlusion), and 360 view (turning around in a space).
With our cockpits we are in a very small tracking volume, we only have the headset, and we are only turning to look left or right. One sensor might not normally be recommended (even though the original CV1 only came with one sensor) but another problem we are inducing is sensor chatter from bouncing with multiple sensors. One rig mounted sensor bounces a tiny bit due to an actuator, which is different than the other rig mounted sensor and the software has to compensate or reset as it is out of bounds (since the software assumes the sensors are mounted on a rigid fixed surface, not a bouncing rig that can shake your teeth out) . By only using one sensor (that is properly secured on your rig) you can at least eliminate this cross sensor chatter. You will have to use the remote though as the touch controls will not work well. You might have to use the xbox controller that came with the oculus for setup.
 
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This might be interesting to you folks: I just finished installing a netfilter... and I have evidence that it has cleaned up EMI from my electricity line!

My sim rig was always miraculously working, after finding the golden combo of USB cables and ports, but what motivated me to install the netfilter was this: while my iPhone was plugged into a USB power adapter in the wall, I noticed scrolling through pages with my finger was very erratic while the SFX100 was running. When I selected stop in the SimFeedback software, the actuators spooled down and voila! scrolling with my finger on my iPhone was smooth again! It was very clear, the SFX100 where interfering with my electricity line, because this didn't happen with the iPhone NOT plugged into the USB power adapter (so not due to airborne EMI).

Now I installed the netfilter, scrolling with my finger is completely smooth, with and without the actuators running! I believe the scrolling with the fingers on the iPhone is a capacitive touch technology, that relies on grounding or such, and it must have been really loud on the grounding... but maybe someone else can explain it?

Anyway, this evidently cleaned up something on the line, so it sure will help with some very sensitive devices.
 
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I don't think I've run the setup properly since moving it all about. I might try that a little later and see if it makes any difference.

I do already run only one sensor so I've already eliminated any issue with running more than one. I've only ever had one and only ever intended to use the Rift for sim racing.

I'll try that software out, too. See if it uncovers anything. It's really hard to know if anything I am doing is making a difference, because you need the exact same profile activated, car, track and other conditions to confirm your change made the difference. With me chopping and changing a lot, it's easy to just think that it's fixed when really it was just the situation not being so severe to cause the issue this time around.

I'm hoping I won't need to worry about it much longer. Although I face a lengthy wait to reunite with 6DOF virtual reality after the HMD arrives. Probably 6 months. I'll probably cave and buy a Vive base station at extremely inflated prices compared to the Pimax variant.
 
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