The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[ScottSonder]

I dont think splitting the coupler is necessarily required if youre struggling. You can tighten it up from the outside via the slot. If you want to get more purchase on the allen key, extend it with grips.

This is my experience from testing and watching @jimbraj's assembly. If you have an allen key with extended grips, your bottleneck is the tiny grub screw stripping, not so much more purchase power. I don't plan on detaching the coupler during assembly for a 'final tighten', but it is pretty easy to detach anyways which makes me a bit concerned the motor could come lose from the coupler just on that force.

Reading all comments on how to modify the coupling and/or axle/shaft to make it non-slip indicates something else is wrong. These couplings are for industrial use and I have never been doing any modifications or using cylindrical bound (loctite) thru years I have been mounting these on servos and similar applications.

Key slot are sometimes used but it is as common using clamping force only. With the correct tolerances and dimension of the coupling, slip should be a non issue.

I was trying to look for more accepted/official procedure for this kind of use in an industrial environment, sounds like you have some experience there? I found advice that when bonding metal to metal, it's good to use Emery cloth to apply an even sanding across both surfaces, but nothing about filing.

I'm at the point where I think it's fine simply ensuring there's no grease and that sanding/filing is not needed, although it could potentially help. What are your views there?

 

[Mascot]

I was half tempted to put a drill though the whole assembly and insert a slotted spring pin when I was doing my build. I chickened out though.

 

[Vantskruv]

Just an image of my controllerbox. Electronics still not connected. Main target was to make everything pretty and awesome...as usual it turns out to be chaos and unorder.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/tdg6aCXXcmqQmuPm9

 

[Mascot]

Just an image of my controllerbox. Electronics still not connected. Main target was to make everything pretty and awesome...as usual it turns out to be chaos and unorder.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/tdg6aCXXcmqQmuPm9

Ha ha..! You should see my plate of delicious electronic spaghetti.

That plastic box did NOT like being drilled.

 

[ScottSonder]

All credit goes to @jimbraj for the original design! This is merely a 'Darwinian baby'. I can share the STL if anyone is interested.

Yes, please

@Vantskruv Doesn't even look too bad! I just wanted to get up and running, I might be run out of this thread if I posted my wiring and housing

@Mascot Well, you've definitely given me the confidence to post mine as well

 

[HugoB]

Yes, please

@Vantskruv Doesn't even look too bad! I just wanted to get up and running, I might be run out of this thread if I posted my wiring and housing

@Mascot Well, you've definitely given me the confidence to post mine as well

https://drive.google.com/file/d/11IoOxV-ZuZsZLeqDWlOOHEUpdXCzn1SR/view?usp=drivesdk

Print like it is, upright on one side, with support

 

[Bleak December]

Got my “bits and pieces” from Kinetic today, kudos to those guys. Super fast shipment and very nicely packed!

 

[Jens Roos]

I'm at the point where I think it's fine simply ensuring there's no grease and that sanding/filing is not needed, although it could potentially help. What are your views there?

I have mounted many of these due my work and never done anything else than make sure it's clean from dirt and all dimension are within tolerance, normally they are but in doubt check. Normally a clearance from 0.01 but less than 0.05mm is fine, thin machine oil can be use if it helps mounting as it will not affect the clamping force.

Here is a instruction from a similar coupling

 

[ScottSonder]

I have mounted many of these due my work and never done anything else than make sure it's clean from dirt and all dimension are within tolerance, normally they are but in doubt check. Normally a clearance from 0.01 but less than 0.05mm is fine, thin machine oil can be use if it helps mounting as it will not affect the clamping force.

Here is a instruction from a similar coupling
View attachment 298572

Thanks for the input, will follow Rowan's doc he found, just clean everything thoroughly, and tighten that grub screw down as tight as humanly possible! I'll switch to the extremes if I ever experience a failure.

 

[RowanH]

Here's a trick I did, from memory got the coupling position right - as I only had an "L" allen key, tightened on motor, slid motor onto actuator, tightened the actuator side as much as I could with the short end of the allen key, then separated the coupler and finally tightened properly with the long end of the allen key - reassembled. No sanding, filing, or tricks. I hadn't even realised there was a recommended orientation of where the keyway should be.

3-4 months later going strong with use every evening or two, loads of Dirt Rally 2 sessions, and a a max load of somewhere around 200kg when one of my mates was in it.

 

[C64]

Thanks for the input, will follow Rowan's doc he found, just clean everything thoroughly, and tighten that grub screw down as tight as humanly possible! I'll switch to the extremes if I ever experience a failure.

If you want to check for movement in the future you can put a small blob of paint on each joint where the shaft meets the coupling. You can then shine a torch in there or take the motor off and check on the paint blob to see if anything has moved.

 

[acekrusty23]

So I was doing the initial test and 2 actuators did nothing, one moved about 50mm and the other actuator completely extended out the bottom ripping the printing apart, to the point that the slider was hanging out of the extrusion. Also damaged the ball screw nut as well! I think I’ve done something wrong with the wiring. Hahahah. Oh geez what a mess. Anyways, I’ll order new nut and print new part and check my wiring. Again! Can anyone point me in the right direction on where to start? Thanks.

 

[Pyronious]

Hey folks, I have an update on the SFX-100 PCB project.

Based on the survey results, there are at least 40 people around the world interested in getting a PCB breakout board for the SFX-100 project. After sharing the results with Saxxon66 and the SFX-100 team, we've decided to organize a group buy of assembled PCB's from a factory in China.

I have identified a factory in China that can produce a short run of boards at a cost of about $20 USD per board for a minimum run of 50. This is for fully assembled boards, all soldered up and ready to "plug and play" onto your Arduino Leonardo.

To keep shipping costs as low as possible, Saxxon66 would like to identify a few volunteers in different regions to support local orders and distribution. These volunteers would collect orders and payments. I can then place the order with the factory and have boards shipped from China directly to each regional group organizer for distribution.

Saxxon66 will make an announcement about this on the various boards soon. I'm so excited to have the opportunity to make this project available to everyone in the community! If you would like to help out by being a volunteer, please get in touch and let me know where you are located. I expect we will want a person each in USA, UK, EU, and AU/NZ.

I will be handling USA, and I think we have a volunteer for UK already.

 

[Furnace Inferno]

Hey folks, I have an update on the SFX-100 PCB project.

Based on the survey results, there are at least 40 people around the world interested in getting a PCB breakout board for the SFX-100 project. After sharing the results with Saxxon66 and the SFX-100 team, we've decided to organize a group buy of assembled PCB's from a factory in China.

I have identified a factory in China that can produce a short run of boards at a cost of about $20 USD per board for a minimum run of 50. This is for fully assembled boards, all soldered up and ready to "plug and play" onto your Arduino Leonardo.

To keep shipping costs as low as possible, Saxxon66 would like to identify a few volunteers in different regions to support local orders and distribution. These volunteers would collect orders and payments. I can then place the order with the factory and have boards shipped from China directly to each regional group organizer for distribution.

Saxxon66 will make an announcement about this on the various boards soon. I'm so excited to have the opportunity to make this project available to everyone in the community! If you would like to help out by being a volunteer, please get in touch and let me know where you are located. I expect we will want a person each in USA, UK, EU, and AU/NZ.

I will be handling USA, and I think we have a volunteer for UK already.

Amazing!!

On a side not got the coupling off, the screw driver method was the one that worked, mine were really tight. 3 built and just the new ball screw assembly needed to complete it .

 

[Tim Palmgren]

That is awesome about the PCB's I have been looking into the DB25 connectors / breadboard at the moment and this makes a lot more sense for a tidy package. If no one puts up their hand for AU I am happy to do it for NZ/AU but would say the demand on that side of the ditch is likely to be higher so it would likely make more sense for it to be there from a shipping perspective (though that means the NZ guys will be happy lol).

 

[sebna]

Hey folks, I have an update on the SFX-100 PCB project.

Based on the survey results, there are at least 40 people around the world interested in getting a PCB breakout board for the SFX-100 project. After sharing the results with Saxxon66 and the SFX-100 team, we've decided to organize a group buy of assembled PCB's from a factory in China.

I have identified a factory in China that can produce a short run of boards at a cost of about $20 USD per board for a minimum run of 50. This is for fully assembled boards, all soldered up and ready to "plug and play" onto your Arduino Leonardo.

To keep shipping costs as low as possible, Saxxon66 would like to identify a few volunteers in different regions to support local orders and distribution. These volunteers would collect orders and payments. I can then place the order with the factory and have boards shipped from China directly to each regional group organizer for distribution.

Saxxon66 will make an announcement about this on the various boards soon. I'm so excited to have the opportunity to make this project available to everyone in the community! If you would like to help out by being a volunteer, please get in touch and let me know where you are located. I expect we will want a person each in USA, UK, EU, and AU/NZ.

I will be handling USA, and I think we have a volunteer for UK already.

Amazing

 

[acekrusty23]

When I try and do the initial test in simfeedback the telemetry and motor lights are red, sound card is green. Don’t know what to do atm. Any help would be great. Thanks.

 

[jimbraj]

When I try and do the initial test in simfeedback the telemetry and motor lights are red, sound card is green. Don’t know what to do atm. Any help would be great. Thanks.

Flash firmware
Check wiring

 

[acekrusty23]

Thanks for your reply. Can I flash the firmware again , I have already done that. Looks like there is a reset button on the arduino , should I press that and then flash again. Thanks.

 

[Furnace Inferno]

Thanks for your reply. Can I flash the firmware again , I have already done that. Looks like there is a reset button on the arduino , should I press that and then flash again. Thanks.

Mine did that too but I just pressed start on one of the profiles on the top and the motor light went green and they all sprung to life.

Using the patented motor polysteyrene Mascot method to lift the frame works like a charm, I wasn’t convinced on initially feeling them but **** me trying to put the rear left actuator on in a tight space was hell!