The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[Mascot]

I'd forgotten I'd shot this a few weeks ago to check how much work my harness tensioning spring was actually doing.

I've amended the board slightly since then but the principle is the same.
It feels great. I'm really happy with the way surge and braking forces are transferred through the harness tension.

There's a biscuit for anyone who can name the car/track combo...

 

[ThugUK]

@RowanH What are your thoughts on $120 for an expired Raemco Harness (2018)? Is that a good price or a pretty rubbish price considering that they are advertising it as an option for a track/drift car? Obviously doesn't matter for simracing but was curious what actually happens to these when they expire?

I read/heard that the reason that they have expiry dates on them is to keep up with changes in rules and improvements, rather than them 'going off' (like food does).
If you owned one from 2001, then the chances are it would still be fine for most use (sim rigs, track days, etc), but not for racing due to the changes in requirements.
By having a use by date, ensures that people have the most up to date seatbelts, meeting todays (or the last few years) standards.

Road cars don't have a 'use by date', and don't 'go off', so why should a race harness?

 

[ThugUK]

I've struggled to get this working recently after it being flawless for a couple of years. I now use 'Neck' in Content Manager which seems to do pretty much the same thing.

Have you got a link to 'Neck' please?

I'd forgotten I'd shot this a few weeks ago to check how much work my harness tensioning spring was actually doing.

I've amended the board slightly since then but the principle is the same.
It feels great. I'm really happy with the way surge and braking forces are transferred through the harness tension.

Where did you get the spring?
I love this idea and want to copy it

 

[Mascot]

Have you got a link to 'Neck' please?

It's part of Content Manager, built in. Just needs activating. Can't remember exactly where right now..!

Where did you get the spring?
I love this idea and want to copy it

It's just one I already had amongst all the junk in my workshop. It just happened to be perfect.
This type of spring is a drawbar compression spring, often used to absorb shock, or for hanging swing seats etc. As compression springs, they can't be over-stretched.
Amazon sell some, but not sure of the strength.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Prime-Line...ring&qid=1556023786&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull

 

[TRC7]

That looks like a storm door spring, and a great idea.
https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-5...m+door+spring&qid=1556024714&s=gateway&sr=8-4

 

[leeroy605]

I'd forgotten I'd shot this a few weeks ago to check how much work my harness tensioning spring was actually doing.

I've amended the board slightly since then but the principle is the same.
It feels great. I'm really happy with the way surge and braking forces are transferred through the harness tension.

There's a biscuit for anyone who can name the car/track combo...

Looks great, something I am hoping to do myself eventually.

What's on the underside of your long boards? Hard rubber to stop them moving?

 

[Mascot]

What's on the underside of your long boards? Hard rubber to stop them moving?

It's 8mm thick self-adhesive neoprene for vibration damping. My rig 'walks' a LOT less (if at all) now that I've linked the back legs and made the feet 'captive' in little pods fixed to the board.

 

[leeroy605]

It's 8mm thick self-adhesive neoprene for vibration damping. My rig 'walks' a LOT less (if at all) now that I've linked the back legs and made the feet 'captive' in little pods fixed to the board.

Nice thanks for the reply, I'll be needing some of that in the near future. Need to build some form of platform once it's up and running so I can mount a harness and also stop vibration going through the floor. I'm in a ground floor flat but was worried about the vibrations being carried next door...

 

[anton_Chez]

There's a biscuit for anyone who can name the car/track combo...

Did you ever recover that missing bolt.....?

@HugoB Have you received that tensioner yet...........? Still waiting patiently for a review.

I am probably looking at doing what Mascot has done here (and others) with the board connecting the feet. Using higher settings now I am having to reposition my rig after each session. I've solved the carpet pulling (for the most part) by cutting squares out of it so the rubber doesn't pull on it but I'd like it to stay put. I quite like the new feeling of higher settings and am getting quite comfortable with it.

 

[Flag Ghost]

It's 8mm thick self-adhesive neoprene for vibration damping. My rig 'walks' a LOT less (if at all) now that I've linked the back legs and made the feet 'captive' in little pods fixed to the board.

Video is really great! Beyond the spring you could really see the subtle movements in the actuators especially the gear shift.. just makes me that much more hyped for when I actually complete my frame and wiring and get this thing moving. I like the level of motion you have in this profile. I may be hitting you up for it when I'm ready.
Would you mind sharing what your using to keep the feet captive? What are the little pods?

 

[Mascot]

Would you mind sharing what your using to keep the feet captive? What are the little pods?

I posted pics a little while ago - they're just plywood squares with a hole in for the rubber washing machine feet buffers to sit in, screwed to the board from below.

This is them as two-piece assemblies (so the hole isn't all the way through) when they were individual feet (the front ones still are):

This is them now with the bottom half removed and screwed to the board instead:

You can just see the original right-hand front foot next to the PC.

 

[sn4il]

I'd forgotten I'd shot this a few weeks ago to check how much work my harness tensioning spring was actually doing.

I like the idea. I'm working on belt tensioner as well. I was planning to use rc servos combined with spring.
I think I will try that first.
Here is what I had in mind:

The belt freely moves through the slot so it can be tensioned by spring as desired.

 

[saxxon66]

I like the idea. I'm working on belt tensioner as well. I was planning to use rc servos combined with spring.
I think I will try that first.
Here is what I had in mind:

The belt freely moves through the slot so it can be tensioned by spring as desired.

Oh, interesting.

But I can not see how this will work.
RC-Servos can only do 180° (some 360° or modded).
The "roll" is much too small/thin and having a "geared" transmission will give you much less movement/rotation.
This will work with 1:1 transmission and a much bigger roll.
But then it depends strongly on the power of the RC servo.

Last but not least, they are noisy.

 

[sn4il]

This will work with 1:1 transmission and a much bigger roll.

You are right. That was original design. I found out that the roll has to be around 3" dia to be effective.
They are noisy, that's why I like Mascot's idea a lot

 

[sn4il]

The "roll" is much too small/thin and having a "geared" transmission will give you much less movement/rotation.

You could also increase the movement by increasing gearing on servo side but it will require more powerful servo.

 

[ThugUK]

Printing complete.

 

[Flag Ghost]

Printing complete.

LOVE the RED !!!!

 

[saxxon66]

I tried the "bottom fixed" harness setup in the beginning.
But it felt not right, at least to me.
Problem is, pitch and heave will tighten the harness also not only the breaking effect.
The overall movement of the belt was not big enough, so I need too tension it to much.
Did not like it, but other do like it, so I guess you need to try it out for yourself.

I do use a RC-Servo setup, works ok, but too noisy and for me the effect is not that important and I'm just too lazy to but it on each time.

 

[ThugUK]

LOVE the RED !!!!

Thanks.

Just thought it would look different and also colour coordinate with my rig.

 

[Snajrog]

As I wait on a local powder coater to return some pieces I've been focusing my attention to the controllers and associated housing. To give you an idea of just how OCD I am, I re-did the power cord three times. The controller cables will have a fabric wrap coming through the wire separator that was made by a friend.