The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

sjb266 · Sep 17, 2018

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.

Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

ThugUK · Apr 24, 2019

Another couple of dumb questions.

1. Where is the best place to put my actuators?
I heard that the closer together the stronger (not necessarily better) the feeling.
Referring to my rig in my post above, where would be the best place to put them?
I thought at the far rear (sides of course) and level with the front pedal mount (outside of the rig of course).

2. What force feedback settings do I need to activate and remove from my rig, steering wheel (AF2) and buttkicker?
I have a Pearl Throne Thumper (Buttkicker) which I have various effects set up for, like road bumps, gear changes, engine vibrations etc. What would be the best to remove/keep on the kicker and steering wheel and to let the rig take control of? Or should I allow the same effect on both rig, wheel and kicker? Or should I sell the kicker?

o Tiger Feet o · Apr 24, 2019

ThugUK said:
1. Where is the best place to put my actuators?

Although the photo is cropped, it looks like you have room to move your pedals a fair bit forward? I would definitely do this as it will mean you can move your seat forward therefore giving you more elbow room with the rear actuators.

Id probably stick the front actuators near the front edge to middle of your pedals.

Furnace Inferno · Apr 24, 2019

ThugUK said:
Another couple of dumb questions.

1. Where is the best place to put my actuators?
I heard that the closer together the stronger (not necessarily better) the feeling.
Referring to my rig in my post above, where would be the best place to put them?
I thought at the far rear (sides of course) and level with the front pedal mount (outside of the rig of course).

2. What force feedback settings do I need to activate and remove from my rig, steering wheel (AF2) and buttkicker?
I have a Pearl Throne Thumper (Buttkicker) which I have various effects set up for, like road bumps, gear changes, engine vibrations etc. What would be the best to remove/keep on the kicker and steering wheel and to let the rig take control of? Or should I allow the same effect on both rig, wheel and kicker? Or should I sell the kicker?

Keep the BK for engine RPM, the rest of the effects are just to simulate motion and obviously you’ll get the real motion with the SFX-100. E.g gear shifts, instead of a thud from the BK your whole rig will rapidly pitch down/up like it would in reality and give a bigger kick.

Mascot · Apr 24, 2019

ThugUK said:
1. Where is the best place to put my actuators?
I heard that the closer together the stronger (not necessarily better) the feeling.
Referring to my rig in my post above, where would be the best place to put them?
I thought at the far rear (sides of course) and level with the front pedal mount (outside of the rig of course).

Logic dictates that the actuators should be as close as possible to the actual positions of the suspension/wheels of whatever car you are driving at the time, so this could vary quite a lot depending on the vehicle. Compare relative suspension/seat/pedal positions in an F1 car compared to a touring car, for example. I'm surprised some clever boffin hasn't designed a rig with extended side rails and quick release attachments so that the actuators can be set in a wide array of positions to closely match whatever car is being driven. Or maybe someone has?

o Tiger Feet o · Apr 24, 2019

How about the family estate version?
Fun for all the family & cats!

ThugUK · Apr 24, 2019

Mascot said:
Logic dictates that the actuators should be as close as possible to the actual positions of the suspension/wheels of whatever car you are driving at the time, so this could vary quite a lot depending on the vehicle. Compare relative suspension/seat/pedal positions in an F1 car compared to a touring car, for example. I'm surprised some clever boffin hasn't designed a rig with extended side rails and quick release attachments so that the actuators can be set in a wide array of positions to closely match whatever car is being driven. Or maybe someone has?

That is actually a very good idea, and probably not too difficult to implement.

C64 · Apr 24, 2019

Instead of moving the actuators about I guess it could be done in the software ( Just wishful thinking Saxxon66... not a request ) where you entered your seating position ( including height ) and actuator positions and then the software would generate movement in the seat that reflected the movement the real life car would deliver. It's easy to write it down in a single sentence - I suspect implementing it ( if possible ) would require significant development time.

saxxon66 · Apr 24, 2019

C64 said:
Instead of moving the actuators about I guess it could be done in the software ( Just wishful thinking Saxxon66... not a request ) where you entered your seating position ( including height ) and actuator positions and then the software would generate movement in the seat that reflected the movement the real life car would deliver. It's easy to write it down in a single sentence - I suspect implementing it ( if possible ) would require significant development time.

Interesting ...

I did some drawing and e.g. for roll, the angel will be the same regardless the seating position is out of center or not.

But you will have a different lift effect.
So let's say you are sitting in the middle of the left half (ok, I am German

).
The car will hit a curb on the right, the car will tilt and the angle will be the same on (center and left seating position). But ... your position from the ground will be different.
So I am thinking about mixing a heave effect with the roll effect. This can already be done in SimFeedback by using an off center heave effect based on the roll degrees.
I have never tried this before.

This it is meant to be made for, a toolbox to mix and match telemetry data with motion effects to identify new motion cues.

Tim Palmgren · Apr 24, 2019

Wouldn't having the actuators closer together increase the amount of pitch and roll?

HugoB · Apr 24, 2019

Tim Palmgren said:
Wouldn't having the actuators closer together increase the amount of pitch and roll?

That's what I've also heard! That's why people on the facebook D-Box forum always say 1.5" is enough, just put them closer together... But I guess the limit is that your rig could topple over if you put them too close together..

saxxon66 · Apr 24, 2019

Tim Palmgren said:
Wouldn't having the actuators closer together increase the amount of pitch and roll?

Sure, you can compensate for this in the software.

But more important is the turning point => center position between two actuators.
Have a look at a real race car and align the center position of you actuators accordingly to the center of the wheel position.

I was talking about off axis movement.

saxxon66 · Apr 24, 2019

HugoB said:
That's what I've also heard! That's why people on the facebook D-Box forum always say 1.5" is enough, just put them closer together... But I guess the limit is that your rig could topple over if you put them too close together..

Did you know? You can emulate a 1.5" system by limiting the max movement to +19% / -19%.

Should be enough for the heave effect, but if you are going to simulate the position of the car in the world by using pitch and roll you will very likely run out of available movement.

sn4il · Apr 24, 2019

That's what I've also heard! That's why people on the facebook D-Box forum always say 1.5" is enough, just put them closer together...

I did test D-box and SFX side to side. I was not able to play with any settings but D-box felt much smoother.
SFX was very aggressive and a bit jumpy. Since I did not finish my SFX platform yet, I simply don't know how far these settings could be dialed.
That was the reason I came up with 3d printed mounts, to absorb a bit of rough vibrations.
I know these mounts were not recommended, but I will try them anyway and see the difference.
Rowan stated that his new aluminum frame provides more details/immersion than previous wooden one.
I will report back in few weeks. I can always go back to aluminum brackets.
This is the setup I'm looking to test:

It takes 58 hours and 1kg spool to print one mount.

Flag Ghost · Apr 24, 2019

I would think it would be far easier to dampen between the feet and floor.

HugoB · Apr 24, 2019

sn4il said:
I did test D-box and SFX side to side. I was not able to play with any settings but D-box felt much smoother.
SFX was very aggressive and a bit jumpy. Since I did not finish my SFX platform yet, I simply don't know how far these settings could be dialed.
That was the reason I came up with 3d printed mounts, to absorb a bit of rough vibrations.
I know these mounts were not recommended, but I will try them anyway and see the difference.
Rowan stated that his new aluminum frame provides more details/immersion than previous wooden one.
I will report back in few weeks. I can always go back to aluminum brackets.
This is the setup I'm looking to test:

It takes 58 hours and 1kg spool to print one mount.

I really like the idea of 3D printing stuff for a sim rig

Myself I’m designing a mount for my button box at the moment. It’s so awesome to be able to make whatever you want! There is no off-the-shelf solution that fits exactly how I want it, so this 3D printer is the best thing I’ve bought in a long time. Getting to learn Blender is also fun, I have to google every step, but it’s going faster and faster now.

I use PETG with a very high temperature to get good layer adhesion, I hope it will be strong enough to withstand the SFX100 mayhem. But it’s fun to think about parts strength, geometry, required thickness etc. good to be using my brain again a little

About SFX100 smoothness, you can choose minimum speed, maximum speed and acceleration, if you want you can make it feel almost exactly like D-Box I’m sure. D-Box has less max speed, so maybe just lower max speed and add some smoothness? I can’t compare them side-by-side so it’s hard for me to do, but maybe someone with access to both systems could make a ‘D-Box profile’? Would be fun to try.

But I guess most people with a SFX100 system don’t want to limit it’s potential, so they choose fast settings, resulting in high detailed movement. A bit like people with direct drive wheels run them much stronger and harsher than people with belt systems.. because what’s the point if you don’t?

That’s what I like about the SFX100 system, you can make endless profiles for different cars and tracks, ranging from full blown F1 eyeballs-leaving-their-sockets madness, to a soft and smooth luxury car cruising down a scenic mountain path.

sn4il · Apr 24, 2019

I would think it would be far easier to dampen between the feet and floor

Yes, it would if the actuator could do both push and pull. This will let me test another scenario with shaft welded to nut (push/pull) on one side and attached permanently to floor with u-joint. I will also test 20 mm ball screw and SFK2005 nut. (you can search this thread for "full redneck actuator mod".
or here: http://serwer1340157.home.pl/max911/index.php?path=SFX/

HoiHman · Apr 24, 2019

Flag Ghost said:
I would think it would be far easier to dampen between the feet and floor.

I think it would be much much easier by adjusting your settings in SimFeedback.

I totally agree with Hugo. If people give a demo of their SFX100 it will be most likely the fastest and the hardest setting they have. These are the settings that leave quite an impression
(after all you are not gonna demo your new OSW at G27 FFB levels either)

Since the SFX100 can be setup more brutal than a D-box system, a demo often results in a more intense ride than the D-box. I have to admit i have done demos like that to

Lowering the min/max speeds and acceleration settings sets you "back" to D-box levels, while still having 2,5" movement to play with for pitch and roll.

And.. i have to admit that sometimes is less is more

sn4il · Apr 24, 2019

And.. i have to admit that sometimes is less is more

True that. I've been chasing the perfect feel for years. Have built my scn5 sim back in 2008. I have tried almost every sim available on the market. I still cant believe how ppl buy some of these sims.
So far from all the sims I tested SFX comes as #1.

HugoB · Apr 24, 2019

HoiHman said:
...while still having 2,5" movement to play with for pitch and roll

just pointing out a small mistake it's actually about 4" converted for USA folks

I agree HoiHman, I tend to choose brutal profiles for demo's, so there is no question why the motors are so large etc.. they all agree it is a powerful system. Dirt Rally is the best demo with some air time

and maximum use of the full travel.

Wmacky · Apr 24, 2019

Pyronious said:
I updated the SFX-100 shield GitHub page with the latest "Group Buy" edition files for the PCB and enclosure.

If you are part of the group buy and want to print your enclosure now, the STL files are available there.

There are versions of the lid with and without a logo, and versions of the box with and without mounting feet.

Enjoy!

Do you have the files for the original 1.32 board enclosure? I have the older board