The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

sjb266 · Sep 17, 2018

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.

Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

Tim Palmgren · Apr 30, 2019

@Wmacky I have help from another user here, my electrical knowledge is quite limited but ordinary 3 core domestic extension leads were what we used..

https://www.mitre10.co.nz/shop/number-8-extension-lead-2m-white/p/242927

Moe Ballout · Apr 30, 2019

I saw this guys video on youtube and his linear actuator and mounting looks very interesting compared to the 80/20 solution. Does anybody have any ideas?

Tim Palmgren · Apr 30, 2019

Moe Ballout said:
I saw this guys video on youtube and his linear actuator and mounting looks very interesting compared to the 80/20 solution. Does anybody have any ideas?

It is from http://pt-actuator.com/about.asp?lngLevelID1=3 and this is what I was quoted in terms of specs/pricing
4 actuators with the stroke 150mm (speed :250mm/s )
4 servo motors with the flange size 80 and 750watts
4 U brackets which fixed onto the chassis
4 floor contact cups
4 set of power and encoder cables
1 set of servo driver Mdbox (4in1)

They are $4499USD for sample price,

and for traction loss:

1 actuator with the stroke 150mm (speed :250mm/s )
1 set of servo driver mdbox (single driver)

They are $850USD for sample price

You would then need a Thanos motion controller kit as well for interfacing plus Simtools from Xsimulator https://www.tindie.com/products/Tronicgr/amc1280usb-motion-simulator-controller-deluxe-kit/ 350US for the kit which it then looks like you will need some other bits for plus 3d printing a case.

Put it this way. I looked at what my tax and import costs would be on $4499USD and it didn't make my wife very happy...the SFX100 was a lot easier to justify. I spoke with this guy on reddit and he did mention that most of the sound it makes is his creaky wooden platform and the actuators are very good/near silent. But relative to my current costs it comes in at over double what I have spent...

Crashtappen · Apr 30, 2019

Wmacky said:
I asked this a while back with no response, but as I'm at the need to know stage, I'll ask again.What AWG wire are you guys using to power each driver. I'm thinking 16awg or 18awg?

You can use 13, 14 or 15 awg. Everything above is useless compared to the total Amps the actuators will draw.

Megahowler · Apr 30, 2019

Got my ball screws from NTL today...
They measure a smidge over 44mm long... Is this going to cause issues with the 3D printed parts?

Crashtappen · Apr 30, 2019

Megahowler said:
Got my ball screws from NTL today...
They measure a smidge over 44mm long... Is this going to cause issues with the 3D printed parts?

Length should be 42mm long sony s you will have a problem with the ball screw case not sitting flush on the slider.

So either you make a spacer or you modify the slider part and add a 2mm depth clearance.

Stop using NTL guys... they only come with problems and they are not the best priced.
You can find all you want on AliExpress and you can check dimensions with sellers.

HoiHman · Apr 30, 2019

Megahowler said:
Got my ball screws from NTL today...
They measure a smidge over 44mm long... Is this going to cause issues with the 3D printed parts?

YES, as you can see here

https://www.racedepartment.com/thre...simulator-thread.159524/page-226#post-2962286

anton_Chez · Apr 30, 2019

It seems more issues are happening with recent NTL orders compared to after Simon sorted them out. Maybe in line with a change of staff that happened? My order from Emily was perfect. From what I could tell.

Megahowler · Apr 30, 2019

Do we have a solution? Spacers? Or am I going to have to contact NTL? and get them replaced

I went with NTL as when I ordered there had "been" issues but they were supposedly fixed..

Worst case it's a little money down the toilet I guess..

RowanH · Apr 30, 2019

We'd like to remind everyone that this is a DIY project only and has a license that prohibits commercial use. We do not want anybody making money by taking/using our work that we have provided to all for free.

We have said 3d printing parts for a few friends is okay. However advertising and selling parts or building actuators is definitely against the terms - eg you can't build an SFX-100 for a price for someone else.

We have seen a few posts on forums/social media recently that indicate people might be building platforms for others for a fee or they have a lot of friends they're printing parts for. If we find out that you are selling or offering to produce parts despite the explicit prohibition of commercial use, we will block your licenses.

ThugUK · Apr 30, 2019

I agree.
It goes completely against the ethics of what the SFX100 is all about.
I cant understand people expecting or asking for someone to build or make parts for them, let alone people offering their service, knowing what the SFX100 is.
Every part of this build is in the realms of the average DIY'er.
The only issues I had was with the helicoils, which I actually thought I wouldn't have any issues with what so ever. The 3D printing was one of the easiest parts, despite me thinking it would be the most difficult.
The other part I was dreading was the electrics, but that has now been made easier with the group buy.
A few basic tools and a sander is all you need.

HugoB · Apr 30, 2019

Yes, it should remain a DIY project, it should remain affordable for everyone.

It's nothing more difficult than assembling Ikea furniture. And it's very rewarding to have built it yourself. But most importantly, you will know how to service it yourself.

Regarding 3D printing, some people don't want to invest in a 3D printer, they will either need to use a printing service or find a friend willing to do the printing. I have printed for a friend, but he bought and assembled all the other parts. I specifically didn't want to build the actuators for him, because it's so valuable to know how they work and what to do if something needs service or repair.

Buut.. I actually do recommend buying a 3D printer if you have space for it, even if you find it daunting. Because in the long run it will prove invaluable for not only sim racing but in and around the house. You will be surprised how often 3D printing can help you solve something practical. For example I've just printed ramps exactly the right size for our door sills so our robot vacuum cleaner can now move through the whole house

For my wife I've printed a mount for her iPad so she can clamp it above the cooking stove so she can watch netflix there

And a mount for my button box on the sim-rig. And I have many other ideas.

Tim Palmgren · Apr 30, 2019

If you were referring to my post, to clarify that is what I was quoted by PT Actuator for the system that the other guy posted above in the youtube video with the wooden traction loss platform. I personally went with the SFX100 as there is still a massive divide in cost between the two.

RowanH · Apr 30, 2019

@Tim Palmgren nothing to do with your post mate. All good.

ThugUK · Apr 30, 2019

HugoB said:
Regarding 3D printing, some people don't want to invest in a 3D printer, they will either need to use a printing service or find a friend willing to do the printing. I have printed for a friend, but he bought and assembled all the other parts. I specifically didn't want to build the actuators for him, because it's so valuable to know how they work and what to do if something needs service or repair.

My 3d printer (Creality Ender 2) cost me £95 brand new delivered, and was perfect for the SFX100.
The 3 rolls of filament I used cost me about £45 (so £140 all in).
Ok, it does take up space in my shed and I still have no idea where I am going to store it, but I could easily sell it and I bet if I did I would hardly lose any money at all.
I will probably keep it though so I can use it for repairs or other things (when I learn how to use Blender).

HugoB · Apr 30, 2019

ThugUK said:
My 3d printer (Creality Ender 2) cost me £95 brand new delivered, and was perfect for the SFX100.
The 3 rolls of filament I used cost me about £45 (so £140 all in).
Ok, it does take up space in my shed and I still have no idea where I am going to store it, but I could easily sell it and I bet if I did I would hardly lose any money at all.
I will probably keep it though so I can use it for repairs or other things (when I learn how to use Blender).

A storage tip: I bought this 'photo tent' that fits perfectly over my 3D printer (Prusa i3 MK3). I put it over every time I don't need it for a while, so it stays dust-free. Some people even use it as an enclosure for printing ABS or warpy material, but I haven't tried that (and don't how fire proof it is).

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Gosear-60-x-60cm-Foldable-Photo-Studio-Shooting-Tent-Light-Diffusion-Soft-Box-Softbox-with-4/32860387001.html

Black_rat · Apr 30, 2019

It seems paypal is the way to go with Kinetek, 7 days from ordering and its here in the UK with free pen and jotter pad.

C64 · Apr 30, 2019

Black_rat said:
It seems paypal is the way to go with Kinetek, 7 days from ordering and its here in the UK with free pen and jotter pad. View attachment 303573

Tip : leave the 100x100 taped together while putting the inserts in... easier to grab hold of them.

EsxPaul · Apr 30, 2019

Guys, do you think going with 1 meter DB25 cables could cause any issues?

I'm planning on using a 6U server cabinet for the servo controllers and would like to have the Arduino either inside the cabinet or at least very close to it.

EsxPaul · Apr 30, 2019

Black_rat said:
It seems paypal is the way to go with Kinetek, 7 days from ordering and its here in the UK with free pen and jotter pad. View attachment 303573

Looking good.

Hope mine come packed like that after seeing some of the earlier horror stories.