The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Can someone confirm what main wire goes where please?
The motor has L1, L2 and L3.
Which one does the live go to, the neutral go to and I guess the earth just goes to the body?
 
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Can someone confirm what main wire goes where please?
The motor has L1, L2 and L3.
Which one does the live go to, the neutral go to and I guess the earth just goes to the body?
If you look at the wiring of mine I posted for UK wiring then it will make sense. You only use the top two but I can’t remember what they are labeled. Live at the top, neutral one below and the 3rd one empty. Ground under the spare screw on the metal chassis where the ground for the motor wire attaches under the other screw.
 
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Sfx-100 Versión 2 [MEDIA = youtube] BfXLNd1nROs [/ MEDIA]
[QUOTE = "ThugUK, post: 2962860, miembro: 212808"] ¿Puede alguien confirmar qué cable principal va a donde quiera?
El motor tiene L1, L2 y L3.
¿A quién se dirige el live, al neutral y supongo que la tierra simplemente va al cuerpo? [/ QUOTE]
 

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Excellent thanks.
I am hoping to run it off one plug, so thought of bringing a single cable in, splitting it into 2 and then 2 again with connector blocks, then feeding each motor.
An issue you can foresee with this idea?
 
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I’ve recieved my package from NTL yesterday and have measured the ballbearings.
44 mm...(36 mm the smaller part).
So I guess that I will have some trouble too...
The best solution would be if the constructor of the slider would be so kind and make a version.2 (make the 30 mm hole 2 mm deeper) or make the original CAD-file availible (can’t make a body from the meshed STL-file). I’m an absolute beginner in Fusion 360, but would gladly make a go for it.
 
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I’ve recieved my package from NTL yesterday and have measured the ballbearings.
44 mm...(36 mm the smaller part).
So I guess that I will have some trouble too...
The best solution would be if the constructor of the slider would be so kind and make a version.2 (make the 30 mm hole 2 mm deeper) or make the original CAD-file availible (can’t make a body from the meshed STL-file). I’m an absolute beginner in Fusion 360, but would gladly make a go for it.

I don't think there's chance that a modified version will be made available, it would take away 2 hole mm of 3D printed material in a critical part without this being tested. Better add a spacer on top or get the right ballbearings instead. You have to try first to see if there's enough clearance for the extra 2mm
 
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I’m not sure of that Hoihman. Think that adding a 2 mm spacer would be much more brittle than removing 2 mm in the hole (if the ball bearing is flush to the material in the hole, it wouldn’t be a constructional problem?). Another solution - adding 2 mm on the original slider (version.3 ;-)?
 
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I’ve recieved my package from NTL yesterday and have measured the ballbearings.
44 mm...(36 mm the smaller part).
So I guess that I will have some trouble too...
The best solution would be if the constructor of the slider would be so kind and make a version.2 (make the 30 mm hole 2 mm deeper) or make the original CAD-file availible (can’t make a body from the meshed STL-file). I’m an absolute beginner in Fusion 360, but would gladly make a go for it.

Convert your mesh to brep and you will be able to modify the file.
Removing 2mm in depth will be super easy, just make a cylinder of the same slider hole diameter and extrude it to the right height to remove that extra 2mm ;)
 
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Going to ask because my search is coming up blank.
I thought I read in here somewhere where someone was using a single E-STOP button to control their SFX and an OSW Mige wheel via an electrical device. I suspect it's as simple as a relay related solution but a proven solution would be nice. Any help would be appreciated.
TIA
 
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Going to ask because my search is coming up blank.
I thought I read in here somewhere where someone was using a single E-STOP button to control their SFX and an OSW Mige wheel via an electrical device. I suspect it's as simple as a relay related solution but a proven solution would be nice. Any help would be appreciated.
TIA

Maybe it was me, not sure, but I am using a remote control switch that switches off all mains power to my rig. This includes the OSW and the SFX100. I only intend to use this if things go really wrong. The E-Stop is still there though. It’s just that if something starts to smell weird or if smoke appears I’d like to be able to switch off all AC power immediately from my rig.
 
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Maybe it was me, not sure, but I am using a remote control switch that switches off all mains power to my rig. This includes the OSW and the SFX100. I only intend to use this if things go really wrong. The E-Stop is still there though. It’s just that if something starts to smell weird or if smoke appears I’d like to be able to switch off all AC power immediately from my rig.

Thanks for the reply. It wasn't that, it was definitely via an e-stop button.
 
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