The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[Stevie_007]

Has anybody with a nlrv3 tied the sfx100 with it, I wonder if they can be used together to add g affects

 

[sebna]

Has anybody with a nlrv3 tied the sfx100 with it, I wonder if they can be used together to add g affects

I do not see how they would benefit each other as it would be more of the same (as both can only generate temporary g force sensation).

Having GS4 / 5 or Geko type of seat on top of it seems be a different story.

 

[sjb266]

All my parts have now arrived.. so bummed i can't put it all together as I have no printer still..

 

[C64]

All my parts have now arrived.. so bummed i can't put it all together as I have no printer still..

If your based in the ukor europe I am happy to do a bit of printing for you.

 

[Michal Burisin]

@hugo bokhorst recommended brand Extrudr for filament. I'm considering this PETG instead of PLA. Is this good choice? How many kilos I will need for SFX project?

 

[HugoB]

@hugo bokhorst recommended brand Extrudr for filament. I'm considering this PETG instead of PLA. Is this good choice? How many kilos I will need for SFX project?

I have a roll of that exact PETG at home, just haven't tested it yet. I have very good results with Extrudr's PLA NX-2. It has strong layer adhesion, low stringing and low warping. First layer adhesion is extremely good on my Prusa i3 MK3's PEI sheet, after just cleaning it with isopropyl.

I have also tried colorFabb nGen and colorFabb PLA/PHA but could never get a satisfactory print (too much warping, too much stringing, bad first layer adhesion), compared to Extrudr's easy, perfect print. I have also tried different cheap brands from local print shops, nothing as good as Extrudr.

I'm just assuming their PETG will be as good, but haven't tried it yet, I'll report back here next week when I'm home.

@HoiHman recommended PETG because it has stronger properties and doesn't deteriorate over time, like PLA does. Maybe he can chime in and help, he has lots more experience than me.

 

[Michal Burisin]

I have a roll of that exact PETG at home, just haven't tested it yet. I have very good results with Extrudr's PLA NX-2. It has strong layer adhesion, low stringing and low warping. First layer adhesion is extremely good on my Prusa i3 MK3's PEI sheet, after just cleaning it with isopropyl.

I have also tried colorFabb nGen and colorFabb PLA/PHA but could never get a satisfactory print (too much warping, too much stringing, bad first layer adhesion), compared to Extrudr's easy, perfect print. I have also tried different cheap brands from local print shops, nothing as good as Extrudr.

I'm just assuming their PETG will be as good, but haven't tried it yet, I'll report back here next week when I'm home.

@HoiHman recommended PETG because it has stronger properties and doesn't deteriorate over time, like PLA does. Maybe he can chime in and help, he has lots more experience than me.

Thanks, I'm looking forward to it. I have Prusa arriving tomorrow, but will take some time to put it together. I will start experimenting with their PLA bundled with the printer and then I will move to Extrudr's PETG if you have good experience.

 

[C64]

@hugo bokhorst recommended brand Extrudr for filament. I'm considering this PETG instead of PLA. Is this good choice? How many kilos I will need for SFX project?

I needed 3 rolls ( 3kg ) of PLA, 2kg is not quite enough if you have 1 failed print. I went with PLA because it is easy to print with. I had to do very little trimming and all the clearances and threads worked well. The top fixed bearing mount and the slider are the only parts that carry the weight of your rig through them.

 

[HoiHman]

I went PTEG, because it's easier to print, more impact resistant and does not deteriorate over time. It sticks way better to the pei sheet than the PLA i have.

You need about 3-4 KG depending on the infill you will be using. I used 30% instead of 20%.

With the prusa I3, you do not have to make any trimming or anything. I could even mount the bolts in the threads by hand the first time.

 

[HugoB]

Thanks, I'm looking forward to it. I have Prusa arriving tomorrow, but will take some time to put it together. I will start experimenting with their PLA bundled with the printer and then I will move to Extrudr's PETG if you have good experience.

Just a heads up: the included Prusa PLA I got was really bad, I could never print anything below 0.15mm layer height or the extruder would get clogged, (you'll hear the bondtech gears clicking), I had to raise the temperature to 230C, but the heat crept up the hot-end and retraction won't work as good. I swapped the heat-break with this one to try and solve the hot-end clogging: https://store.micro-swiss.com/products/plated-wear-resistant-thermal-tube-for-e3d-v6-hotend-1-75mm it helped a little. There was also massive stringing. Printing at 0.2mm layer height mostly works fine. But maybe your included spool is better. Apparently they also randomly add their Prusament filament to some shipments, it will be un-labeled, maybe you get lucky

But just so you don't throw the printer out of the windows from frustration, the Prusa PLA can be very bad, so if your prints just don't seem to work, buy some good filament first, before you go insane. I spent days and days of wasted time on that sh*t spool, then with Extrudr all my problems went away, any ballpark settings seem to work fine.

 

[HugoB]

I went PTEG, because it's easier to print, more impact resistant and does not deteriorate over time. It sticks way better to the pei sheet than the PLA i have.

You need about 3-4 KG depending on the infill you will be using. I used 30% instead of 20%.

With the prusa I3, you do not have to make any trimming or anything. I could even mount the bolts in the threads by hand the first time.

I heard some PETG sticks SO well to PEI sheet that you can break the PEI sheet when trying to remove the part? I'm a bit afraid to just print on the bare PEI, do you use any special procedure for the sheet?

Here they mention it:
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/5vvbh6/removing_petg_from_pei/

 

[Michal Burisin]

Thanks guys, I'll order PETG straight away if the bundled filament is crap

I got the new powder-coated surface on MK3, so I hope it will not stick as much.

Should I get some additional nozzles to the default one? They sell this hardened one which is just more resistant than standard one.

They also got ruby one. But I think as beginner I would just destroy it with experiments

 

[HugoB]

Thanks guys, I'll order PETG straight away if the bundled filament is crap

I got the new powder-coated surface on MK3, so I hope it will not stick as much.

Should I get some additional nozzles to the default one? They sell this one.

They also got ruby one. But I think as beginner I would just destroy it with experiments

The Hardened Steel one is only needed if you want to print with abrasive materials, like metal filled filament, or carbonfiber filled filament like colorFabb XT-CF20, these materials will quickly scrape your standard Brass Nozzle so the hole diameter is no longer the same. But the Hardened Steel has less good thermal properties compared to the Brass Nozzle, so it's better to use the Brass Nozzle for normal PLA/PETG/ABS etc.

If you just want to print the parts for the SFX100, your standard 0.4mm Brass Nozzle will do the job the best.

The only reason to get a different nozzle diameter is if you want to print faster (get a 0.6mm nozzle to save time) or if you want to print with more detail (get a 0.25mm nozzle). But my warning, if you are chasing small details, get ready for looooots of trial and error, these FDM printers are really not good at small details, better to get an SLA printer for that, and just use the FDM printer for nice big parts and fast building.

Steel, hardened steel, copper, brass, ruby, all have their pros/cons. For normal PLA/PETG printing, brass is the best, because of its superior thermal conductivity, temperature stability at higher print speeds is the best.

 

[HoiHman]

I heard some PETG sticks SO well to PEI sheet that you can break the PEI sheet when trying to remove the part? I'm a bit afraid to just print on the bare PEI, do you use any special procedure for the sheet?

Here they mention it:
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/5vvbh6/removing_petg_from_pei/

Put a thin layer of glue on it first

 

[Moxley6969]

I love how many Flat out Ignore glue, thinking its the child of the devil or something, lol As a Production printer, Glue is your Friend. I highly suggest you get to know him. he's a good guy and comes in to rescue your shi* when you dont even know it gone awry.

 

[Michal Burisin]

The Hardened Steel one is only needed if you want to print with abrasive materials, like metal filled filament, or carbonfiber filled filament like colorFabb XT-CF20, these materials will quickly scrape your standard Brass Nozzle so the hole diameter is no longer the same. But the Hardened Steel has less good thermal properties compared to the Brass Nozzle, so it's better to use the Brass Nozzle for normal PLA/PETG/ABS etc.

If you just want to print the parts for the SFX100, your standard 0.4mm Brass Nozzle will do the job the best.

The only reason to get a different nozzle diameter is if you want to print faster (get a 0.6mm nozzle to save time) or if you want to print with more detail (get a 0.25mm nozzle). But my warning, if you are chasing small details, get ready for looooots of trial and error, these FDM printers are really not good at small details, better to get an SLA printer for that, and just use the FDM printer for nice big parts and fast building.

Steel, hardened steel, copper, brass, ruby, all have their pros/cons. For normal PLA/PETG printing, brass is the best, because of its superior thermal conductivity, temperature stability at higher print speeds is the best.

Thanks for info!

I don't think I will need to do smaller layers. Maybe I will try later when I get more experience, but I will start learning on the basics with standard brass nozzle.

 

[Moxley6969]

$ for $ and hassles for time sake in swapping nozzles (potential damage By rookies constantly swapping nozzles ect ect if playing with abrasive filaments).....I suggest to toss a Steel Nozzle on and Never look back.

I cant say i honestly noticed a difference in quality/Speed or Flow when i swapped way back when so never bothered with brass ever again.

I fully agree that leaning on brass is ideal tho, no point blowing out expensive Carbon Fibers or other abrasives on learning, PLA is Cheap and dirty and who cares if you have a 10 hour print fail, its only a whopping 1-3$ anyways.

 

[HugoB]

True, PLA is best for learning.. if you can find a cheap spool that also works well, use it in the beginning while learning the ropes of your slicer, to find out what all the settings do. But the PLA should at least be good enough that it doesn’t work against you, like I had with the Prusa PLA, that stuff was nasty, it made me think I was doing things wrong, made me buy different upgrade parts and mods as well to get it working, all the while some good PLA like Extruder showed me just how easy it actually is, to print. With the Extrudr stuff I can print from 195C to 230C, from 10mm/s to 150mm/s, heated bed, no heated bed, 0.05mm layer height to 0.3mm layer height, no matter what I do, it always works, that’s also worth something.

 

[Moxley6969]

Agree, the prusa stuff seems to have gone Downhill since they kicked up production. I Luckily have a AWESOME supplier up here in Canada, Filaments.ca

PLA is 15$ a spool ,20$ for PETG knock off a few bucks for No Spool if you want too.

Econofill PLA is Super impressive and Uber Cheap and i Cant complain one little bit. Ron and the whole crew has taken care of me for the past few years and i will Forever get my filament from him.

 

[sjb266]

If your based in the ukor europe I am happy to do a bit of printing for you.

Thanks so much for the offer but I'm in Australia!

I'm so insane that I just went and bought a new printer while I wait for the parts for the other one! So i'm printing now and just about to put my first actuator together.. Finally!