The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html
 
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Near the end of the video, I see the left actuator break contact with the pads. In theory, that shouldn't happen (?) AFAIK, it doesn't occur with the D-box system but, I may be missing some clue related to the video.

The overall performance looks good and I like the chassis lighting. :)
 
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Near the end of the video, I see the left actuator break contact with the pads. In theory, that shouldn't happen (?) AFAIK, it doesn't occur with the D-box system but, I may be missing some clue related to the video.

The overall performance looks good and I like the chassis lighting. :)

The video is filmed with an empty seat and a front heavy rig due to pedals and steering wheel. I used the AI driver in Assetto Corsa. When you stop the motion, all actuators are retracted. In video i pressed the stop button when the car was still driving and the rig was in full motion. Because of the position the left rear actuator was in at that time, it reached it's home position before the other 3 did.
 
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The video is filmed with an empty seat and a front heavy rig due to pedals and steering wheel. I used the AI driver in Assetto Corsa. When you stop the motion, all actuators are retracted. In video i pressed the stop button when the car was still driving and the rig was in full motion. Because of the position the left rear actuator was in at that time, it reached it's home position before the other 3 did.
If it's a potential problem then maybe the software could be updated so that in situations like that the other actuators have phased movement so they 'level out' before they all start retracting, ie the lowest one retracts until it catches up with the next one, then both of those retract until they catch up with the next one, then all three retract until they catch up with the fourth, then all four finally retract together? I guess this could stop unbalanced loading on the actuators?
Probably not necessary, but just a thought.
 
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If it's a potential problem then maybe the software could be updated so that in situations like that the other actuators have phased movement so they 'level out' before they all start retracting, ie the lowest one retracts until it catches up with the next one, then both of those retract until they catch up with the next one, then all three retract until they catch up with the fourth, then all four finally retract together? I guess this could stop unbalanced loading on the actuators?
Probably not necessary, but just a thought.

Like you already mentioned, probably not necessary. :)

When you're in the seat the rig is better balanced and all 4 actuators will stay on the ground. Also, normally you don't quit when in full motion.
 
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Like you already mentioned, probably not necessary. :)

When you're in the seat the rig is better balanced and all 4 actuators will stay on the ground. Also, normally you don't quit when in full motion.
Do you have Pcars2? I've been playing with the RallyX cars of late and find them to be pretty entertaining but, I have a hard time finding the sweet-spot in terms of system travel with only 1.5" to work with; the system often bottoms out during jump landings so I have to reduce the overall effects to quite a low level.

I suspect the SFX100 should be miles better in such scenarios, with the added range. I'd like to get your opinion of how it works in those cases, and those where the car crests a hill (Any sense of the car & driver getting light?).
 
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Do you have Pcars2? I've been playing with the RallyX cars of late and find them to be pretty entertaining but, I have a hard time finding the sweet-spot in terms of system travel with only 1.5" to work with; the system often bottoms out during jump landings so I have to reduce the overall effects to quite a low level.

I suspect the SFX100 should be miles better in such scenarios, with the added range. I'd like to get your opinion of how it works in those cases, and those where the car crests a hill (Any sense of the car & driver getting light?).

I have Pcars2, but haven't got around tuning the RallyX cars yet. But this video of looks rather good at 2:25




I did try Dirt Rally and the landings are great, but i did not really feel taking of. There's enough headrooom for all effects, But offcourse still tuning and learning.
 
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I don't get the feeling of really taking off either, in the V3. It's more the weight shift forward and then the landing that jolts you around that you feel. You'd expect that too in a real car, as the ground just sort of leaves you with nothing underneath followed by a slight decent (nose dipping, maybe depending how you took the jump) and then the landing. Probably pretty hard to get a full sized car to keep ascending like a motorcross bike might after leaving the crest.
 
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Small update: Got all the actuators built.. went as planned..

I ended up buying the Mige 90ST package which came with a different driver than expected..

The DS100S
MIGE-Modbus-RS485-AC-220V-Servo-Motor.jpg

Anyway.. I've sorted out some of the required settings with the help of their tech guys in reference to the AASD driver and we've got most of it sorted.. successful JOG test tonight...

I'll have to do some problem solving and soldering (note the DB26) but it's all part of the fun!

Get it all on the rig tomorrow and wire up for a test in the next few days!
 
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I don't get the feeling of really taking off either, in the V3. It's more the weight shift forward and then the landing that jolts you around that you feel. You'd expect that too in a real car, as the ground just sort of leaves you with nothing underneath followed by a slight decent (nose dipping, maybe depending how you took the jump) and then the landing. Probably pretty hard to get a full sized car to keep ascending like a motorcross bike might after leaving the crest.
We have some back roads near us with sharp crests where you can definitely feel gravity pulling on everything except your stomach (which is in your throat at that point). Hang time is not really the issue as much as momentary weightlessness. With enough system travel and speed, I'd think it's possible to replicate to some extent but, 1.5" certainly isn't enough travel.
 
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Here is a example how you can have "airtime" ..
between 0.8 and -0.8 g Simfeedback ignores input, everything bigger its a steep movement up to 2 cm (40 percent) .. Sure you can do more, its up to you .. also acceleration and speed are values which take a big influence like "Oh, i land to late or to early"
The good thing with Simfeedback is that you can be on track, software activated (motion) and fiddle live with the graphs ..also you can have 3 effects with the same input total different configured ..
Lime Rock in Iracing with its up and down is some perfect gravity test

IrAirtime.png
 
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Found a good box for the motor controllers. They fit so nicely I thought I’d post here, maybe someone is still looking for an enclosure.

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66-AB95-D8-3-A00-489-F-AD36-66-FFAEDC54-AB.jpg


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After removing a mounting bracket on one side of the controllers, they fit snugly against the wall on one side, on the other they overlap together so I can use two screws/bolts to hold them secure. This way there is enough ‘air’ around the controllers on every side to allow for cooling. Additionally, through the middle corridor I will pull fresh air with a fan, attached to the side (left or right) to aid the cooling element’s function. The controls are also visible. I’m going to attach the Arduino and cables under the top lid. For better cooling during usage, I can always open it, but I hope this will suffice.

@HoiHman do you think this cooling solution will be enough? How is your construction holding, what kind of temperatures are you measuring?
 
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