The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html
 
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he ball screw, bearing etc; did you all receive a shipping notification or did they just arrive some days/weeks after payment? Amy has been fairly communicative but I haven't heard from her since a few days ago after she asked for my shipping address. No big deal, just curious.

I received hollow shafts from Amy on July 18th. Order was placed on July 9th. Tracking # was provided via email from Amy on July 17th.
I'm very happy with their services.
 
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The artifact is related to how your slicer program sequences things once the outer perimeter gets close to the inner perimeter, and where it starts each "loop" for the build on that layer. Most slicer programs produce that artifact. I have it on every single one of my motor mount prints using a Prusa Mk3s and PrusaSlicer software. No big deal. If you want to minimize the cosmetic looks of this, use a PLA filament with glitter/sparkle in it, like Prusament Galaxy Black.
 
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Hi, i decided to get on the boat, i ordered almost parts..... it is exiting a project like this...:D
For those they are tested it , i wonder what do you thing of buliding a platform with 3 actuators instead of 4 . 2250 watts (3 actuators) it seem to me it is enough ! yes / no ?
and why ?

@saxxon66 i made my donation for expert mode ...and i'm waiting..:rolleyes:
 
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Hi, i decided to get on the boat, i ordered almost parts..... it is exiting a project like this...:D
For those they are tested it , i wonder what do you thing of buliding a platform with 3 actuators instead of 4 . 2250 watts (3 actuators) it seem to me it is enough ! yes / no ?
and why ?

@saxxon66 i made my donation for expert mode ...and i'm waiting..:rolleyes:
order 4 aluminum profiles instead of 3 if you decided to go for 4 the profiles are hard to get, They are not so expensive, And i don't know if it wil work with 3 so watch out! Ask Saxon!
 
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It is a system designed for 4 actuators. FL FR and RL RR.. each corner is being sent discrete telemetry data for realistic motion.

3 actuators will not work (or will not feel very good) with the current software Micha has developed.
 
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Many folks here may not be following the Thanos controller thread, so I'll repost some info from there that's relevant to the SFX-100 community. Thanos has found that the standard SFX-100 motor controllers work just fine with 110V power. Here's Thanos' post from that thread:

"Just to let US based AASD-15A owners, there is a way to power the drives from 110v instead of using power converters from 110v to 220v...

It simple as setting Pn083=100. The Pn083 is the undervoltage alarm and should be set 10v or 20v lower than the working voltage. So by setting that to 100v you are able to power the AASD-15A with 110v US power directly."

Thanos also found that the hum in some installations is reduced as well when driving these controllers at 110V. We've had several folks there and on Thano's Discord channel try this out over the last 24 hours, and all reports are there's no difference in performance/speed of the motor controllers when driven at 110V.

For those worried about current draw, a number of SFX users have measured power of this system, which typically peaks at about 750W (total) under heavy movement. This translates to just under 7amps for a 110V circuit, well within the typical 15- or 20-amp breakers commonly used in US home wiring.

We all owe Thanos a huge thanks for finding this setting, which will reduce complexity for US-based SFX builds, as well as reduce EMI and ground loop problems with SFX systems as well. Someone should put this info into the SFX build guides, once the community confirms and accepts this fix.
 
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Many folks here may not be following the Thanos controller thread, so I'll repost some info from there that's relevant to the SFX-100 community. Thanos has found that the standard SFX-100 motor controllers work just fine with 110V power. Here's Thanos' post from that thread:

"Just to let US based AASD-15A owners, there is a way to power the drives from 110v instead of using power converters from 110v to 220v...

It simple as setting Pn083=100. The Pn083 is the undervoltage alarm and should be set 10v or 20v lower than the working voltage. So by setting that to 100v you are able to power the AASD-15A with 110v US power directly."

Thanos also found that the hum in some installations is reduced as well when driving these controllers at 110V. We've had several folks there and on Thano's Discord channel try this out over the last 24 hours, and all reports are there's no difference in performance/speed of the motor controllers when driven at 110V.

For those worried about current draw, a number of SFX users have measured power of this system, which typically peaks at about 750W (total) under heavy movement. This translates to just under 7amps for a 110V circuit, well within the typical 15- or 20-amp breakers commonly used in US home wiring.

We all owe Thanos a huge thanks for finding this setting, which will reduce complexity for US-based SFX builds, as well as reduce EMI and ground loop problems with SFX systems as well. Someone should put this info into the SFX build guides, once the community confirms and accepts this fix.
Very interesting!
Has me wondering if UK bods could use a step-down transformer to run their SFXes at 110v and enjoy the benefits of lower EMI issues?

Got a link to the Thanos thread please?
 
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I want to be very clear on this this subject.

We do not recommend anybody to to lower the voltage limit, so that it can be driven by 110 volts.
There are reasons why most power supplies do have a physical switch or a dedicated circiut to detect the voltage.
Our driver does not.

You are dealing here with high power sources that can cause dangerous problems if not used in the appropriate conditions.

The seller of these motor was asked many times if this can be used with 110v and he said no, everytime.

Our recommendation is to use a step up Transformer or run a dedicated 220v line.

Thanos is not part of this project and his controller is not supported.
We are not affiliated with any commercial and would like to keep it that way.

There are other options (motor and driver) that support 110 Volts, but they need a higher controll voltage, so the setup will be more complicated.

If you are interested I can ask for more details to post here.
 
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I’m still in the process of getting to learn the system and trying to get rid of some interference/EMI related issues, but was wondering if the SFX100 could actually make you a faster driver. Or is the system only giving your much more immersion but also more difficulty to stay on the limit?
 
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I’m still in the process of getting to learn the system and trying to get rid of some interference/EMI related issues, but was wondering if the SFX100 could actually make you a faster driver. Or is the system only giving your much more immersion but also more difficulty to stay on the limit?

It probably makes you a little slower as you are feeling the bumps and kerbs. In fact sausage kerbs can really jolt you.
You don’t get this without motion so are less aware.
The immersion still out ways any issue it may have however.
 
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