The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[BluePotato00]

@saxxon66 2 times i made an attempt for making a donation but 2 times i got a refund from Rausch IT via PayPal and i don't understand why ! any suggestion ?

You need to donate more. There is an (unspecified) minimum donation amount to get a license key. Donations below that amount will be refunded.

 

[Eric Bergeron]

You need to donate more. There is an (unspecified) minimum donation amount to get a license key. Donations below that amount will be refunded.

good ! thanks , and thank you for your shopping list link for USA/Canada

 

[diablo2112]

I've done a bit of research into the AASD motor drives and the (possible) use of 110V to drive these. I appreciate that Saxon and others have looked into this in the past, and been told that they require 220V for operation. We've recently found they do work at 110V, once you set the low voltage alarm parameter (PN083) to a value of 100 volts.

Anyway, there's a teardown video of the AASD controller on youtube (below), which pretty clearly shows that the internal power board contains a switching power supply (which by design accepts variable input AC voltage, often 80-240 VAC). See the screenshot here which I lifted from this video. The red circle shows what really looks like a switching power supply layout.

Also, it's possible to find this controller listed on several sites with a specification of 110V single phase/220V 3-phase input. Here's a few links that shows this controller with those specs.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32946162533.html?

https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/ac-servo-motor-drive-20433616155.html

Please accept this work in the spirit of trying to help the community and provide some options which simplify the SFX build for US-based enthusiasts. Over the last day or two, several folks have successfuly operated the AASD controllers with 110V input. All just FYI.

 

[HoiHman]

You need to donate more. There is an (unspecified) minimum donation amount to get a license key. Donations below that amount will be refunded.

Yep, don't be cheap

 

[Eric Bergeron]

Yep, don't be cheap

i though 1000.00 was enough . lol

 

[Mascot]

I've done a bit of research into the AASD motor drives and the (possible) use of 110V to drive these. I appreciate that Saxon and others have looked into this in the past, and been told that they require 220V for operation. We've recently found they do work at 110V, once you set the low voltage alarm parameter (PN083) to a value of 100 volts.

Anyway, there's a teardown video of the AASD controller on youtube (below), which pretty clearly shows that the internal power board contains a switching power supply (which by design accepts variable input AC voltage, often 80-240 VAC). See the screenshot here which I lifted from this video. The red circle shows what really looks like a switching power supply layout.

Also, it's possible to find this controller listed on several sites with a specification of 110V single phase/220V 3-phase input. Here's a few links that shows this controller with those specs.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32946162533.html?

https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/ac-servo-motor-drive-20433616155.html

Please accept this work in the spirit of trying to help the community and provide some options which simplify the SFX build for US-based enthusiasts. Over the last day or two, several folks have successfuly operated the AASD controllers with 110V input. All just FYI.

There are reports that this also reduces the coil whine, which would be music to my ears - literally.
Any comparisons or frequency readings? At 220v the coil whine is at 10kHz.

 

[Tronicgr_6DOF]

There are reports that this also reduces the coil whine, which would be music to my ears - literally.
Any comparisons or frequency readings? At 220v the coil whine is at 10kHz.

It actually reduces the amplitude of the noise by half as the PWM will swing only to 110v... It doesn't eliminate it entirely.

 

[Mascot]

It actually reduces the amplitude of the noise by half as the PWM will swing only to 110v... It doesn't eliminate it entirely.

View attachment 318948

Thanks! I'll take half of the earache and half of the headache every day of the week.
Sounds promising!

 

[saxxon66]

I've done a bit of research into the AASD motor drives and the (possible) use of 110V to drive these. I appreciate that Saxon and others have looked into this in the past, and been told that they require 220V for operation. We've recently found they do work at 110V, once you set the low voltage alarm parameter (PN083) to a value of 100 volts.

Anyway, there's a teardown video of the AASD controller on youtube (below), which pretty clearly shows that the internal power board contains a switching power supply (which by design accepts variable input AC voltage, often 80-240 VAC). See the screenshot here which I lifted from this video. The red circle shows what really looks like a switching power supply layout.

Also, it's possible to find this controller listed on several sites with a specification of 110V single phase/220V 3-phase input. Here's a few links that shows this controller with those specs.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32946162533.html?

https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/ac-servo-motor-drive-20433616155.html

Please accept this work in the spirit of trying to help the community and provide some options which simplify the SFX build for US-based enthusiasts. Over the last day or two, several folks have successfuly operated the AASD controllers with 110V input. All just FYI.

It's all about responsibility.
If you found a way to drive these motors using 110v, great.
Take your time, measure the temps, measure the amperage, peak current , ...
Two days and two people are not enough. Let more people try the solution who exactly know what they are doing.

There is nothing to win if Someone's house get burned down or anybody get injured.
We are here on a public forum, so just take care the info is safe, even for somebody who has no deeper understanding regarding electronics.

The power circuit has many more parts, like the rectifier, diodes, caps, fuses, ...

Here is a good readup with very good images and as a bonus you can retrofit a RS232/485 interface also, if you are into electronics.
http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/6258-AC-servo-motor-help-!/page3

 

[Wmacky]

Finally got mine done!

 

[Tim Palmgren]

@Wmacky they look very nice with the black anodisation...

 

[Wmacky]

@Wmacky they look very nice with the black anodisation...

I can not lie. It's Rustoleum Satin spray paint

 

[BluePotato00]

I can not lie. It's Rustoleum Satin spray paint

Sexy!

I'm going to ask you in a few months how well the paint job held up. I did Rustoleum primer and spray paint on my Heusinkveld pedals, but the paint job hasn't held up well and I've had to do extra coats as the paint wears away from their continued use.

 

[Tim Palmgren]

@BluePotato00 @Wmacky I was thinking of doing mine but the rest of the rig is silver anyway so I figured there was little point (other than the SFX100 profile not being the EXACT same shade of silver).

 

[growe19]

Requiring some assistance with 3D printed sliders not fitting inside of the aluminium profile.

I ordered from the German site so got exactly what was listed on the shopping list.

There isn't even a burr on the metal. The slider just flat-out refuses to sit inside.

Any ideas on how to reprint without getting everything else wrong for fixing alignment? I used a 3D printing service so not sure what to advise them to correct this.

Additionally is the slider (as it's named) meant to literally slide up and down the shaft of the aluminium profile?

 

[Furnace Inferno]

Requiring some assistance with 3D printed sliders not fitting inside of the aluminium profile.

I ordered from the German site so got exactly what was listed on the shopping list.

There isn't even a burr on the metal. The slider just flat-out refuses to sit inside.

Any ideas on how to reprint without getting everything else wrong for fixing alignment? I used a 3D printing service so not sure what to advise them to correct this.

Additionally is the slider (as it's named) meant to literally slide up and down the shaft of the aluminium profile?

You can just file the sliders, I had to file all of mine and no issues since.

Once it’s in just using it will naturally file it more so it’s a perfect fit but it will squeak a bit if it is really tight.

 

[growe19]

You can just file the sliders, I had to file all of mine and no issues since.

Once it’s in just using it will naturally file it more so it’s a perfect fit but it will squeak a bit if it is really tight.

Excellent thanks for the tip. I had started to file a piece of the profile assuming it had a burr and hadn't even considered filing the slider. I'm such an idiot. Thanks

 

[Wmacky]

Excellent thanks for the tip. I had started to file a piece of the profile assuming it had a burr and hadn't even considered filing the slider. I'm such an idiot. Thanks

Careful as you file. Keep checking the fit, as you do want it nice and snug so they will wear in. I filed my first one for a easy fit and and after I pushed it through a few times it started dropping straight through! IT was now too loose, so I had to reprint it.

On next try I did not file. They would start, but I had to hammer them through with a shaft and rubber mallet, after the 3rd trip through, they had already reformed so that they were able to be pushed through by hand with some resistance. I feel that is the correct fit.

If your sliders will not even start a few mm, you will need to file some, or reprint.

 

[ThugUK]

Same here, I had to file some off mine too.
They had to be ‘persuaded’ to go in using a piece of wood and spray lube.
Now they move in//out easier but still nice and snug.

 

[diablo2112]

If your sliders don't fit, it's very likely because the 3D printer had a skew. If the printer is not absolutely dead-square, the result is a skewed part, and the tolerance between the slider and the extrusion is basically non-existant, it's an interference fit.

You said you used a 3D printing service. Many (most, actually) 3D "services" are just web-based sites that connect requesters with a bunch of folks that serve as printers. It's the luck-of-the-draw to get someone with a perfectly-calibrated printer. I, too, ordered a test set of parts from a 3D service when I began my SFX-100 build, and the parts I recived were terrible, basically unusable. By then, I had decided to just buy a good printer and do my own.

I spent many days and a dozen test prints to get my printer absolutely dead-square. This is harder than it sounds. I adjusted my printer frame iteratively until it was dead-square. Sliders from my printer are a perfect fit in the extrusions. They slide easily, but there's not the slightest hint of twisting or rocking. FYI.

Here's a comparison of the commerically provided parts (which I scrupuously worked with to provide SFX printing parameters) and a comparison to one of my test prints. I cut both open to show the differences. The commerical print is worthless here.