The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

sjb266 · Sep 17, 2018

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.

Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

Insert Coin · Sep 20, 2019

Some tips from my side when using an Ender 3:

buy the Pro (cheapest on AliExpress): it has a better power supply and the fan intake of the control box is at the bottom instead of the top so nothing can fall into it
Creality Ender 3 assembly and pro build tips:
no strictly necessary, but I recommend to buy stiffer springs (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32505303471.html), or print Ender 3 Bed Spring Stabilizers (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3464335)
buy the glass plate add-on (only 8 euro at AliExpress) because the aluminium bed is almost always warped
remove the magnetic sheet, put the glass plate onto it and clamp it with small fold back clamps
put the fold back clamp at the left (nearest to you) more to the middle of the bed, you don't want the nozzle to hit the clamp
wipe the glass clean with isopropanol 70% before each print (do not 'lean' on the bed)
the new glass comes with a sticky yellowish layer; wipe this off completely before printing (it will dissolve anyway when wiping with isopropanol each time)
before calibrating the bed always heat it up to 47 degrees first
calibrate the bed before each print using CHEP_Ender_3_bed_level.gcode (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3235018) and a peace of paper, but repeat it 3 times if the calibration is far off and/or you have swapped a roll of PLA
I'm using Extrudr NX-2 black PLA with great success, but don't heat the bed higher than 47 degrees; using other brands it's mostly 60 degrees but with NX-2 at 60 degrees the print is almost welded to the glass
set nozzle temperature for Extrudr NX-2 PLA to 215 degrees
calibrate the extruder: https://letsprint3d.net/how-to-calibrate-the-extruder-steps-ender-3-5-cr-10/
I recommend to calibrate your printer using this procedure: STEP Calibration Piece (X, Y and Z axis) (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:195604), it's a 10 cm print which calibrates easier than the small 2 cm cube most people use and it has a good description how to calculate the e-steps (do mark the printed 'arms' with X and Y before removing it from the bed...)
repeat the STEP Calibration if you change brand or color PLA
after each print: heat the nozzle first and then clean it, it may have some PLA residue which can get sticky; while cooling down keep checking there is no PLA sticking out of the nozzle - then calibrate the bed using CHEP_Ender_3_bed_level.gcode
when the print is done: WAIT till the bed is below 25 degrees: the print can be easily removed from the bed
if you cannot remove the print: remove the glass bed with the print and put it in the fridge or freezer (but you don't want that to happen: removing the glass isn't easy)
after the calibration print, second thing to print: Ender 3 Filament Guide (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2917932)
third thing to print: Ender 3 Anti Snag Endcap (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2989026)
fourth thing to print: cable clips (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2960375)
nice to have: Ender 3 Filament Roller Guide (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3052488)
nice to have: Ender 3 Pro minimal toolbox (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3550432)
put the printer onto firm foam for less noise
always keep the nozzle fan at 100%: if you switch it off the fan in the control box is switched off too (it's a design error if you ask me)
always print the SFX100 parts with a brim
I never had warped corners (because of the lower bed temperature I think)
good quality prints on this printer
I'm using PrusaSlicer 2.2 because it has the option 'print a solid layer each x layers' as is recommended for the SFX100 parts (see 'Print settings' - 'Infill' - 'Advanced')
attached: configuration for PrusaSlicer 2.2 with Ender 3 Pro settings; in this config is a SFX100 print setting which I used and it has correct start / stop gcode for the Ender 3
pro tip: if the holes for the bolts or bearings are slightly too small, turn on 'external perimeters first'; the holes are correct in size and they are smooth, small disadvantage is you'll see 'blobs' on the outside of the print.

That's all for now

Prototype_ · Sep 20, 2019

RCR_Finn said:
I think this looks great! Do you have a mechanism for the seat back/forth adjustment sourced already? It would be great if you can make a "Bill of materials" available for this design, it would be easy to order the aluminum extrusions already cut to measure. Are you planning to do that when you have finalised the design?

The idea was to simply shift the plate into position using the t-slot extrusions and snug it down.
But incorporating a slider is an easy addition. Most seat manufacturers have them as additional accessories.
Ill be doing another iteration on the design based on feedback from the channel here, and once we are all happy with the design, yes Ill upload full plans and a bill of materials.

RCR_Finn · Sep 20, 2019

Prototype_ said:
The idea was to simply shift the plate into position using the t-slot extrusions and snug it down.
But incorporating a slider is an easy addition. Most seat manufacturers have them as additional accessories.
Ill be doing another iteration on the design based on feedback from the channel here, and once we are all happy with the design, yes Ill upload full plans and a bill of materials.

Thank you. I really appreciate the work you and all of the SFX-100 founders as well as the community is putting in to the documenting and sharing your solutions. I have been dreaming of a motion platform for at least 5,5 years when I built my first sim environment, which I sadly had to give up shortly after due to a move to another country. Now that I am back, and now that I found out that the hard lifting in the pioneering work is already done, this seems like a project within my tinkering skills. Already excited to get started, luckily I already got into 3D printing stuff in the beginning of this year, so a part of the investment into kit and skills is already there. Now I just got to start sourcing stuff, and maybe before spring comes, I will have my motion platform in operation.

Can't wait.

C64 · Sep 20, 2019

Get ordering, get printing and you will have it working in 4 - 6 weeks ... most of that time is waiting for stuff to arrive, assembly is really straightforward, it is only assembly, no tricky engineering or electrical skills needed

It took me a weekend to assemble and get working using my dining room and hand tools.

C64 · Sep 20, 2019

Prototype_ said:
The idea was to simply shift the plate into position using the t-slot extrusions and snug it down.
But incorporating a slider is an easy addition. Most seat manufacturers have them as additional accessories.
Ill be doing another iteration on the design based on feedback from the channel here, and once we are all happy with the design, yes Ill upload full plans and a bill of materials.

I put a secondhand bucket seat in my rig a couple of days ago, I did not get mounting plates with it so installed it using 2 lengths of 40/40 and 8 slotted angle brackets. It is surprisingly effective, I can setup the overall tilt angle by using different slots in the rig side rails... and then do finer tilt adjustment using the slots in angle brackets. It is also very quick to adjust backwards and forwards by loosening 4 easily accessible Allen head bolts and sliding backwards and forwards.

RCR_Finn · Sep 20, 2019

C64 said:
Get ordering, get printing and you will have it working in 4 - 6 weeks ... most of that time is waiting for stuff to arrive, assembly is really straightforward, it is only assembly, no tricky engineering or electrical skills needed It took me a weekend to assemble and get working using my dining room and hand tools.

That does sound tempting and encouraging. I am not sure if it's worth it sourcing stuff like I usually do, via Aliexpress, as it tends to take up to 2 months, that's why I am trying to keep realistic. Plus I might need a lot of time to make the necessary room for it, as the missus has been piling crap in the corner for 4 years now.

And I do mean it quite literally...

scoobyzilla · Sep 21, 2019

thanks to @C64 for his comments and help, very helpful, looking at building my own rig now rather then buying a simlab p1 and @Prototype_ work looks fantastic - had a look round at extrusion supplies and found this company but they dont do an 80/20 profile (i assume that means 80x20 mm) they do an 80 x 40 but would that be overkill for the main frame ? this looks like it could work for the main frame
40x80L IR Range Aluminium Profile - comments welcomed

ThugUK · Sep 21, 2019

Mine is 80/40 so certainly not overkill.

Wmacky · Sep 21, 2019

Carpeting?

OK, My house remodel is complete as of this morning, and now my wife has allowed me a second hobby room just for VR, and The SFX. I've already assembled the actuators, and electronics rack case. I now just need to assemble the P-1 and attach all the SFX stuff. The spare bedrooms all got thick padded full carpeting. Do you euro guys do that too? Anyway, how do I deal with that and the SFX? Should I cut a large base board to set it on? Plywood? MDF?

Anyone else stuck with carpeting?

pass-low · Sep 21, 2019

pass-low said:
i'm near Wakefield, just near to final bit of my build, need to attach the actuators to my rig should be done in a few weeks.

and shes built

it makes a noise like water flowing through a central heating radiator system?

BluePotato00 · Sep 21, 2019

Wmacky said:
Carpeting?

OK, My house remodel is complete as of this morning, and now my wife has allowed me a second hobby room just for VR, and The SFX. I've already assembled the actuators, and electronics rack case. I now just need to assemble the P-1 and attach all the SFX stuff. The spare bedrooms all got thick padded full carpeting. Do you euro guys do that too? Anyway, how do I deal with that and the SFX? Should I cut a large base board to set it on? Plywood? MDF?

Anyone else stuck with carpeting?

Carpeting may be a plus. Less noise and the rig will "walk" less.

C64 · Sep 21, 2019

scoobyzilla said:
thanks to @C64 for his comments and help, very helpful, looking at building my own rig now rather then buying a simlab p1 and @Prototype_ work looks fantastic - had a look round at extrusion supplies and found this company but they dont do an 80/20 profile (i assume that means 80x20 mm) they do an 80 x 40 but would that be overkill for the main frame ? this looks like it could work for the main frame
40x80L IR Range Aluminium Profile - comments welcomed

We all use 40mm x 40mm or multiples of that, I guess we should refer to it as 8040 instead of 8020

@Prototype_ design is really good. I bought my rig stuff from https://www.motedis.co.uk/shop/index.php their prices were good, it ships from Germany even though it looks like a uk site. I recommend over ordering on angle brackets, bolts, t-nuts and get a few extra lengths of 40x40 so you can add/modify... its what this stuff is great for.

Prototype_ · Sep 22, 2019

DRAFT 4 REVISION
Explored the additional bracing as suggested by @diablo2112
This is a great solution and strengthens the overall frame significantly, adding more rigidity.
The only thing I was a little disappointing about is that the framework started losing its minimalist and optimal direction Ive been hoping to achieve.

Another suggestion from @diablo2112 was getting the screen closer to the driver, which got me thinking about the Center of Mass of the screen, and how we can use that to our advantage.

Which brings us to ...

DRAFT 5 REVISION

A

By placing the screen position above the main vertical strut, the center of mass of the screen pushes down down on that location, we dont need to compensate as much, by building angled supports.

Moving the screens Center of Mass directly over the actuator, we induce less inertia on the screen when its moved. (Screen weighs 11kg)

(Screen is actually placed 20mm behind Center of mass, to allow for the use of the standard 40mm angle brackets, otherwise we would have to make a custom bracket, and I figured its not worth the marginal benefit. The double brace design however is plenty strong essentially being a box shape.

An additional thing I noticed on @diablo2112 pics of his rig is the front of screen is also resting on additional supports. Built this feature into the design, and we can put adhesive foam rubber on the ends of these profiles to snugly fit between the profile and the screen. This will lessen the cantilevered effect on the screen.

B

FRAMEWORK

As per @C64 s suggestion to move the rear actuators further back, this is now done, and the driver sits within the bounds of the actuators.
The Center of Mass of the rig framework is as follows:

Note the 7mm offset along the center line, this is due to the Shifter strut.
This can be neutralized by adding in a keyboard arm etc ... Pretty much a non issue, but just pointing it out.

C

DD Centre of mass, as to be expected.
Fanatec DD1/2 drive weighs in at 13 kg, as an FYI.

D

The driver!
Center of mass and position of the 95 percentile human.
Note driver is within the confines of the actuators now.

E

DETERMINING THE ENTIRE SYSTEMS CENTER OF MASS

This combines the driver, rig, screen, and DD wheelbase. ^^

From this we can see that the load distribution on the actuators is heavily biased toward the front actuators, carrying 2/3 rds of the overall mass of the system when a driver is in the cockpit.

So this is another compromise that Im pointing out, and could open up an interesting discussion.
It would be nice to try and neutralize the load a bit, but all things considered, its probably not an issue, other than the front actuators will wear out faster than the rear ones.
Another thing to note is, the heavier the weight of the driver, the further back the Center of mass will be.
The taller a driver - and therefore, the further back the seat position, the further back the Center of mass will be.
The above study is based on the 95 percentile human, so the above Center of mass position is roughly true for most people.

Prototype_ · Sep 22, 2019

So thats been the next steps of exploration on this thing.
Please let me know whet you guys think ...

Some overview images:

RCR_Finn · Sep 22, 2019

Prototype_ said:
So thats been the next steps of exploration on this thing.

Excellent work! Real pro stuff. Are you basing the design on 8040 + 4040 profile? Any chance you would make the plans for a VR version? I imagine not having the mass of the screen up high there would change the center of mass a bit, and reduce the load on the front actuators? I wonder how much more length I would need for the rig to include a bracket with pulleys up in the shoulder level behind to seat, to accommodate an active or passive belt tensioner.

Pucis666 · Sep 22, 2019

Now I have to start thinking too, to stick with original idea and buy Sim Lab P1 or build my own similar to it. I am a laser operator by trade, so can cut any metal parts needed for it, just need to calculate if the hassle will save money or end up the same price at the end

Mr Latte · Sep 22, 2019

Wmacky said:
Carpeting?

OK, My house remodel is complete as of this morning, and now my wife has allowed me a second hobby room just for VR, and The SFX. I've already assembled the actuators, and electronics rack case. I now just need to assemble the P-1 and attach all the SFX stuff. The spare bedrooms all got thick padded full carpeting. Do you euro guys do that too? Anyway, how do I deal with that and the SFX? Should I cut a large base board to set it on? Plywood? MDF?

Anyone else stuck with carpeting?

You could have used noise reduction and antivibration based materials. Carpet and even just some rubbers may not specifically have good properties for this. If the carpet is fitted then maybe you missed a chance in using special underlay but you can apply these materials to a nicely made plinth and also the plinth on good quality rubber castors.

There are loads of options for household/professional or car industry.
Not yet seen an SFX build properly tackle these issues and those seeking minimal vibration to other rooms in the home. I have spent quite a lot on such materials for my own build but not yet installed or in a position I can comment on how well they perform with reducing tactile/SFX vibrations.

See Here

SeniorDingDong · Sep 22, 2019

Hey all, I'm getting ready to build one of these. My current 80/20 rig is on casters, which is super convenient so I can roll it against a wall and out of the way when I'm not using it. I'm hoping I can maintain this ability with the actuators mounted. What I imagine is that when the actuators drop the rig down when turned off, it will sit on the casters and be rollable, but then will be lifted off the casters when the actuators fire up. Is this feasible? Or will the motion of the rig cause the casters to bottom out? I would have it so the distance between the casters and actuator feet when fully retracted will be as little as possible to maximize "ground clearance".

BluePotato00 · Sep 22, 2019

SeniorDingDong said:
Hey all, I'm getting ready to build one of these. My current 80/20 rig is on casters, which is super convenient so I can roll it against a wall and out of the way when I'm not using it. I'm hoping I can maintain this ability with the actuators mounted. What I imagine is that when the actuators drop the rig down when turned off, it will sit on the casters and be rollable, but then will be lifted off the casters when the actuators fire up. Is this feasible? Or will the motion of the rig cause the casters to bottom out? I would have it so the distance between the casters and actuator feet when fully retracted will be as little as possible to maximize "ground clearance".

I think they'd bottom out. You could try to edit each effect in SimFeedback such that the platform will never go to its extreme motion, but I don't know if the additive effects would still be an issue.

BluePotato00 · Sep 22, 2019

Anybody know if its safe to put a smartplug on my step-up converter so I can turn it on/off via a voice command? It's not in a convenient location and I don't want to wire up another switch.
Basically turning it on/off with a smartplug is the equivalent of keeping the unit's power switch turned on all the time and plugging it in / unplugging it when I want to power it on/off. Will my step-up converter not like that?

Edit: I'm talking about a smartplug between the step-up converter and my wall receptacle. Not between my step-up converter and the motor controllers.