The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html
 
Last edited by a moderator:
hello! I've decided I'm going for it and build an SFX100 on my gt1evo rig.

I'm looking for the discord for help, but I can't seem to find the link - I am able to join it at this time?

Here are a couple quick questions/details maybe you all can help with:

- Planning on using a gt1evo - I ordered an extra cross beam for the front to "complete the frame box"
- I'm planning to use the ITEM24 profile since I'm in the US + the related STL mods
- Is skye@ntl-bearing.com still the best email to order the internal actuator parts?
- I have a 3d printer (cr10s) and I'm pretty handy with it
- I plan to use 110v (US), which I believe is possible with Thanos board without a step-up to 220
- using https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32844070107.html motors Version A
- I'll be using VR (pimax 5k+ with lighthouse), so I have concern over EMI, is there a good list of extra items that may be needed to help?
- with the Thanos board, is that correct I can skip sourcing the following items from the shopping list?

D-Sub breakoutboard 4
Arduino Leonardo 1
cables Arduino wiring 1
breadboard 1
(OR) Wago Connectors

Thanks!!
 
Upvote 0
Not sure what cabinet you have but here is how I mounted mine. On the first picture the black vertical piece came with the cabinet. The other gray piece that runs horizontally is an steel angle I made. You can see on second picture how the drives are mounted to the angle. There's an angle on top and the bottom. Hope this helps.

Thanks so much!
I bought a startech 6U cabinet that I had seen people use, but I'm not sure if I can mount that vertical piece in the model I bought. I'll see what I can do - thanks for the help!
 
Upvote 0
hello! I've decided I'm going for it and build an SFX100 on my gt1evo rig.

I'm looking for the discord for help, but I can't seem to find the link - I am able to join it at this time?

Here are a couple quick questions/details maybe you all can help with:

- Planning on using a gt1evo - I ordered an extra cross beam for the front to "complete the frame box"
- I'm planning to use the ITEM24 profile since I'm in the US + the related STL mods
- Is skye@ntl-bearing.com still the best email to order the internal actuator parts?
- I have a 3d printer (cr10s) and I'm pretty handy with it
- I plan to use 110v (US), which I believe is possible with Thanos board without a step-up to 220
- using https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32844070107.html motors Version A
- I'll be using VR (pimax 5k+ with lighthouse), so I have concern over EMI, is there a good list of extra items that may be needed to help?
- with the Thanos board, is that correct I can skip sourcing the following items from the shopping list?

D-Sub breakoutboard 4
Arduino Leonardo 1
cables Arduino wiring 1
breadboard 1
(OR) Wago Connectors

Thanks!!


110v can be used whether using Thanos board or the Shield/Arduino option. The main voltage is supplied to the motor drives in both cases and the same parameter settings need to be adjusted on the drives. Both Thanos and Arduino boards are USB connected to the computer and have DB25 cables connecting them to the drives.

Wago connectors up to you, some also use them for daisy chaining the 110v mains to the drives though terminal blocks or wire nuts could also be used.

EMI issues req changing out the power cables on the motors with shielded wire. Here's a great post detailing the process. https://www.racedepartment.com/thre...motion-controller.168360/page-20#post-3047521

There's also a motion cancellation program to isolate your hmd movements from the movement of your rig that works with Simtools but I'm not sure if it works with Simfeedback https://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/openvr-motioncompensation.14576/
 
Upvote 0
hello! I've decided I'm going for it and build an SFX100 on my gt1evo rig.

I'm looking for the discord for help, but I can't seem to find the link - I am able to join it at this time?

Here are a couple quick questions/details maybe you all can help with:

- Planning on using a gt1evo - I ordered an extra cross beam for the front to "complete the frame box"
- I'm planning to use the ITEM24 profile since I'm in the US + the related STL mods
- Is skye@ntl-bearing.com still the best email to order the internal actuator parts?
- I have a 3d printer (cr10s) and I'm pretty handy with it
- I plan to use 110v (US), which I believe is possible with Thanos board without a step-up to 220
- using https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32844070107.html motors Version A
- I'll be using VR (pimax 5k+ with lighthouse), so I have concern over EMI, is there a good list of extra items that may be needed to help?
- with the Thanos board, is that correct I can skip sourcing the following items from the shopping list?

D-Sub breakoutboard 4
Arduino Leonardo 1
cables Arduino wiring 1
breadboard 1
(OR) Wago Connectors

Thanks!!

To join the discord you have to donate.

skye@ntl-bearing.com Is still good. And they now also offer the motor and servos. Just say you want quote for SFX-100 parts.

I used ITEM24. No issues.
 
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skye@ntl-bearing.com Is still good. And they now also offer the motor and servos. Just say you want quote for SFX-100 parts.

I used ITEM24. No issues.

I just got quotes, for ITEM the profile, threading all the holes (32x) and most of the bolts is around $450.

The quote from skye for the bearings/motors/shafts/rods came in around $1330, (including the $350 shipping.. ouch)

Any input on those prices?
 
Upvote 0
I just got quotes, for ITEM the profile, threading all the holes (32x) and most of the bolts is around $450.

The quote from skye for the bearings/motors/shafts/rods came in around $1330, (including the $350 shipping.. ouch)

Any input on those prices?
It was around 1,200.00 for all the parts shipped from skye. Must of had a price increased. As for the ITEM24 I bought in Canada and didn't get the bolts or threading but price seems about right.
 
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@BogdanB @Freeon Thanks. That worked! Donated. :)

If I can only find 270mm hollow shafts, can I use those instead of 250?
270 is what is required according to SFX shopping list.

For How much of the Shaft sticks out when Un powered and at rest, I see NO reason what so ever why you couldn't run 250mm shafts vs 270mm Shafts. ...you would just have the rig sit that much lower to the ground when you run the actuators in their lowest "COG" position.

Imo i really dont see why there's the extension to the shafts that stick out, For ultimate in compactness for the actuator as a whole, the Length could be tweaked.

Even checking with my TPU Foot and Cups As seen HERE, you would still have enough clearance.
 
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EDIT: Deleted and moved to appropriate thread.
 

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Wow @Chipless setting stuff up in simtools looks so complicated, but also very limited compared to what we can do with SimFeedback. :roflmao:

It just dawned upon me that this thread is supposed to be for SimFeedback only (hence the title). I just didn't know where else to post my query. I will find a suitable venue. My apologies.

That being said, if SimFeedback is a better alternative, I might give it a go.
 
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Realised I hadn't put an update in this thread for a while. I finally got the next iteration of my g-seat half working (top half) and decided to test it out last night with iRacing for the first time (hadn't used iracing in a while so view setup all wrong etc). Definitely wouldn't be running this like this the whole time - way too much movement.

 
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For those using Thanos+SimTools and playing AMS2, which settings are you using? Mine are below, which I totally copied from @diablo2112 on a different thread. I am not sure if he has made changes since (please chime in if so @diablo2112 ). On the Thanos side, using all suggested settings for SFX100 from user manual, Smoothing of 0, and Spike Filter at 3000. Just curious what others are using as well. Thanks!
View attachment 375959
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Use this forum posting: https://www.racedepartment.com/thre...motion-controller.168360/page-41#post-3180841
 
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