The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[d69morpwr]

Just so you guys are aware if you ask at Skye they can supply shielded cables or at least that's what they are telling me.

 

[slikk66]

Did they hit you for a PayPal fee also?

NTL bearing did yea, like $57.

Just so you guys are aware if you ask at Skye they can supply shielded cables or at least that's what they are telling me.

Yes I also wrote her back (Amy) asking about shielded cables for B type motor, she said they have them, added $22 more for the shielded cables.

 

[Freeon]

NTL bearing did yea, like $57.

They gave me the option to complete the order true their aliexpress store. Paid with credit card, no paypal fee.

 

[slikk66]

They gave me the option to complete the order true their aliexpress store. Paid with credit card, no paypal fee.

Crap haha.. I didn't get that option. She just said send payments to paypal ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

[Freeon]

Crap haha.. I didn't get that option. She just said send payments to paypal ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I ordered in March. Did you order before me? Maybe they changed it.

 

[d69morpwr]

Gave me the offer also on Alibaba.

 

[Laserbeak43]

I've donated about a week ago, if not longer, and have not gotten an invite to the discord, so I'll ask here:
I bought my ballscrews on Amazon, and they came with all of this extra hardware, Looks like I won't be needing it?

Amazon Link
Images

 

[ThugUK]

I've donated about a week ago, if not longer, and have not gotten an invite to the discord, so I'll ask here:
I bought my ballscrews on Amazon, and they came with all of this extra hardware, Looks like I won't be needing it?

Amazon Link
Images

Correct.

 

[d69morpwr]

Question on the printed parts. Is it worth putting heli coil inserts in those or is it just not needed?

 

[Freeon]

I don't have any heli coil inserts and never had any issues. Never heard of anyone use heli coil either.

 

[dizzyj]

I’m in the process of building my actuators. I’m using the item24 extrusion and already printed everything. Can someone check the stl for the item 24 slider? I noticed it had a groove around the circumference in the lowest notch that was nit there when I printed the kinetic sliders. While installing the item 24 slider it was too tight and while pulling on the leg to remove the slider assembly out of the extrusion the slider separated in two right at that groove. It’s as if the print has a top layer right there.
I’m wondering if I did something wrong and need to reprint my sliders. Would hate for them to fail after install

 

[Moxley6969]

I’m in the process of building my actuators. I’m using the item24 extrusion and already printed everything. Can someone check the stl for the item 24 slider? I noticed it had a groove around the circumference in the lowest notch that was nit there when I printed the kinetic sliders. While installing the item 24 slider it was too tight and while pulling on the leg to remove the slider assembly out of the extrusion the slider separated in two right at that groove. It’s as if the print has a top layer right there.
I’m wondering if I did something wrong and need to reprint my sliders. Would hate for them to fail after install

Snap a picture or what your talking about.

 

[Freeon]

I’m in the process of building my actuators. I’m using the item24 extrusion and already printed everything. Can someone check the stl for the item 24 slider? I noticed it had a groove around the circumference in the lowest notch that was nit there when I printed the kinetic sliders. While installing the item 24 slider it was too tight and while pulling on the leg to remove the slider assembly out of the extrusion the slider separated in two right at that groove. It’s as if the print has a top layer right there.
I’m wondering if I did something wrong and need to reprint my sliders. Would hate for them to fail after install

Here is a picture of ITEM24 slider. There is no groves. Mine was also a bit tight and had to sand them.

 

[Laserbeak43]

I tried to make one but when I checked on it, the print lost adhesion to the bed... gotta figure that out, maybe the bed was too warm. My ball screw was able to fit through it though. Was that what you were having problems with?

Edit:
Oh wait, it doesn't fit inside of the extrusion..... Did you sand yours down to get it in? How well is it supposed to fit? Snug or loose?

 

[mechsicko]

I tried to make one but when I checked on it, the print lost adhesion to the bed... gotta figure that out, maybe the bed was too warm. My ball screw was able to fit through it though. Was that what you were having problems with?
View attachment 378163

Edit:
Oh wait, it doesn't fit inside of the extrusion..... Did you sand yours down to get it in? How well is it supposed to fit? Snug or loose?

View attachment 378164

A few things here.. for one you might need to mess with the files, others have had issues with the Item models if they weren't using Prusa's slicer or that there are artifacts in the model when using Cura... not entirely sure but remember there being issues.

Unless this is a test for fit, you are printing at the wrong settings... the wall/top/bottom should be set to 4mm in the shell settings. You should also print using a brim for bed adhesion on parts like this or one of the corners lifts from shrinkage and it will dislodge from the bed or at least be distrorted. A draft shield may also help, the 3D870 formula pla I used was prone to warping so needed more than a brim to successfully print the sliders.

Another thing is your printer needs to print dimensionally accurate parts, which usually entails lengthy and tedious testing and calibration to set the extrusion length and % properly as well as to calibrate the steps of xyz. If not, you end up with parts that might not fit and even with it you likely still need to sand and fine tune for fit but your part looks way off in the pic.

First calibrate your extruder https://mattshub.com/blog/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration
Once that's sorted then calibrate xyz https://all3dp.com/2/how-to-calibrate-a-3d-printer-simply-explained/

 

[Freeon]

I bought a glass bed for my printer. Made a big difference. As far as not fitting inside it looks the same as mine did. 10-15 minutes of sanding and nice snug fit. Tried scaling down the print but then didn't fit on the ball screw and was loose in the profile.

 

[diablo2112]

That slider has been printed with entirely the wrong settings, it's way-too weak the way it was done. With a 0.4mm nozzle at a 0.25mm layer height, you need 12 top/bottom layers and 8 perimeter layers. Infill should be a minimum of 25% rectilinear fill. Also, your prints appear to be under extruded. You need to calibrate your extruder (usually by increasing the flow setting).

 

[dizzyj]

Thanks for the pictures. I think I know what happened to my slider. I initially inserted a pause to initially test fit. I think when I removed the pause to print the whole thing I messed up and there were two sliders on top of each other in the slicer tool, one that was shorter. Think thats where my groove came from.

Also, instead of sanding, I reduced the x and y scale by a tiny amount. say .05mm. Made a nice tight fit with no sanding needed, and all the screws still fit perfectly. time to reprint the rest.

 

[dizzyj]

For those interested here is a picture of a slider with the groove and one that had already failed while installing.

 

[diablo2112]

The broken slider appears to be incorrectly printed? From what I see, it looks like those parts appear to have 2 perimeters with the failure line is occurring at the point just above the internal threaded holes. Hard to say for sure without a better picture.