The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html
 
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I am not sure people were being lazy, people were pulling their hair out trying everything at various times but hooray for you dude, being able to call people out from your couch.

I just don't get why people pull their hair out trying everything they can think of to avoid doing the right thing.

Im calling people out from my working sim with no emi issues. That "long way" mechsicko posted above is my post in this thread over a year ago telling the community how Ifixed emi at the source.
 
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One thing I know is not every system is the same so I dont get the idea of calling people out. No one is blaming a headset, we all know where the problem lies. Many have bought all their cables before there was the option for shielded cables or people knew there were going to be any future problems. If some simple grounding fixes the problem, so what? A lot of people might want to try that than order >$100 new cables and wait a month.

I still see people have lighthouse issues with nothing but an off the shelf retail DD wheel from a reputable source and no motion.

I have seen people shield every single cable and minimise but not completely remove all issues.

So I am happy for everyone, including you, that got rid of any issues but I wouldnt call you lazy if it turned out you still had an issue.
 
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I just don't get why people pull their hair out trying everything they can think of to avoid doing the right thing.

Im calling people out from my working sim with no emi issues. That "long way" mechsicko posted above is my post in this thread over a year ago telling the community how Ifixed emi at the source.


Your post is my reference for doing mine but I ended up sourcing suitable shielded wire in black for pretty cheap in the US. When I followed your aliexpress links they were no longer available and suppliers I found charged much more than this place does anyhow. It was hard to find suppliers with stock that sold less than 1000m spools and it's pvc vs silicone (fits in og strain reliefs) but the quality is good and it's only $15 / 10m. If you want to update your post for sourcing here's where I got it: http://www.zyltech.com/10m-18-4-shielded-stranded-bundled-wire/

Also took me a while before I figured out the metal 4 pin connectors have left hand thread to open the shell to access the solder terminals. I either missed that detail in your post or it was overlooked. Thanks for making such a clear guide to follow either way.. I've linked it many times already
 
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One thing I know is not every system is the same so I dont get the idea of calling people out. No one is blaming a headset, we all know where the problem lies. Many have bought all their cables before there was the option for shielded cables or people knew there were going to be any future problems. If some simple grounding fixes the problem, so what? A lot of people might want to try that than order >$100 new cables and wait a month.

I still see people have lighthouse issues with nothing but an off the shelf retail DD wheel from a reputable source and no motion.

I have seen people shield every single cable and minimise but not completely remove all issues.

So I am happy for everyone, including you, that got rid of any issues but I wouldnt call you lazy if it turned out you still had an issue.

Sorry man, I take it back. I've been stressed lately and saw some things that bugged me and I reacted stupidly. I'm not usually the kind of guy who turns into a keyboard warrior. This place is about helping each other out and getting away from the bs in life.
Apologies.
 
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Thing is, every problem arises from a different source. Even if I did everything you're saying, MY issues would never have been solved. Why? Because my issues had nothing to do with grounding. Rather (as I stated countless time by the nature of the resulting issue) I had a USB connection issue, completely unrelated to grounding.

So, had I not tried changing cables, trial and error, swapping plugs, changing motherboard, shortening the length of the cable, etc, etc, etc, I would NEVER have found the issue. Solving a problem is always easy, once you've found the solution.

Every system is different, and will affect hardware differently depending on what is being used. One thing I know for sure, is these motors and drivers are dogshit for home use and should be avoided at all costs if you want something plug and play. Most of the early adopters also on have the motors with the cables connected right into the housing of the servo. So simply changing cables is not an (easy) option. I have a shielded cable for my DD wheelbase and I've never had any issues with basestations nor any other component since I've had that. Truth be told I only spent the extra because the regular unshielded cable was out of stock. I know better now.
 
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Question for fellow SFX100 / Simlabs P1 users -

When using a separate monitor stand (I'm using the SimLabs single stand) did you run into clearance issue? I guess the monitor has to be raised higher than optimal? How about rolling? Does the P1 clang into the monitor stand?
 
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I'm amazed that people don't don't want to solve emi at the source. Grounding USB cables is such a bandaid. I guess it's just laziness. Then I see people hating on headsets. Those motors are blasting the whole room with emi. Lots of electrical equipment is affected by it, sometime even intermittently. Why leave that huge source of crap unchecked?

It's not a rabbit hole, others have found the solution. Fix it the right way and have the peace of mind. Shield the power wire.

There is even a lazy way - wrap the cable in shield tape.

What I so often see suggested is like having a hole in the roof of your house, and instead of patching the hole, you go buy waterproof furniture. Have fun with that.

I purchased good quality shielded power wires, grounded at the controller end, wired in 4x EMI filters for the controllers, I have ferrite cores on my USB devices, tried a USB isolator, grounded my USB hub and I'm still getting issues with my pimax headset tracking when touching the sides. I'm out of ideas..

It's still not a deal breaker for me as I love the motion but it's a bit annoying!
 
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Hi, I am having some concerns getting the sfx software to recognize the controller. I can connect the usb up and see that it is arduino device but when I run the software the controller light stays red in the software and there is no motion when I start a profile. I have tried to upload firmware but it errors out. I don't get any error when I start or stop to indicate it's not working. I have tried multiple ports PC's and cables all with the same outcomes. I am hoping someone can help with trouble shooting this or have had similar experiences. I have asked a friend with the same setup but he is unsure why as well. I think the board might be playing up but don't want to go through the heartache of replacing to discover it's something else. Open to suggestions for the next steps. Cheers
 
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Hi, I am having some concerns getting the sfx software to recognize the controller. I can connect the usb up and see that it is arduino device but when I run the software the controller light stays red in the software and there is no motion when I start a profile. I have tried to upload firmware but it errors out. I don't get any error when I start or stop to indicate it's not working. I have tried multiple ports PC's and cables all with the same outcomes. I am hoping someone can help with trouble shooting this or have had similar experiences. I have asked a friend with the same setup but he is unsure why as well. I think the board might be playing up but don't want to go through the heartache of replacing to discover it's something else. Open to suggestions for the next steps. Cheers
Sounds like a defective Arduino. You are using a Leonardo? An Uno doesn't work.
Arduinos are very picky about USB cables, make sure you are using a high quality shielded USB cable.
 
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I'm getting extremely burnt out trying to find parts for the DIY SFX-100 that are available in Japan.
I can find 100x100 profile here, but the M12/M8 reduction sleeves, the hollow shafts, the bearings... None of them are available in Japan...

This is a long shot but would anyone be willing to ship some of that stuff over to me?
 
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Yeah, just send a mail to Amy (skye@ntl-bea...) and ask "Simon Special".
I made a query couple days ago, full package of actuator internal parts and servos delivered to Europe 1258 usd. Delivery without servos are somewhere near 100 usd.


SimonSpecial.png
 
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Yeah, just send a mail to Amy (skye@ntl-bea...) and ask "Simon Special".
I made a query couple days ago, full package of actuator internal parts and servos delivered to Europe 1258 usd. Delivery without servos are somewhere near 100 usd.


View attachment 419160
Just out of curiosity, but you think they also have the reduction sleeves? And a lot of the other parts that are not "general electronics store" parts? The only thing on the part list I can easily find in Japan is corner brackets, 100x100 aluminum profile, T-nuts, grease gun, DB25 connectors and bearing grease.
 
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Hi everyone,

I am having some troubles in getting the ST motors to my country because of high taxes and shipping costs. It becomes so expensive that i have started to look for a solution inside the country.

So I have found these motors and drives:

1- ASD-B2-0721-B - Servo drive : https://www.damencnc.com/en/ac-servo-drive-750w-asd-b2-0721-b/a806

2 - ECMA-C20807RS - AC Servo Motor 750W 17 Bit 3000rpm Frensiz 2.39 Nm, 80mm flanş, 19mm şaft. :
https://www.damencnc.com/en/ac-servo-motor-750w-ecma-c20807rs/a815

Will these work? I will probably adjust the 3d printings if necessary.

Will simfeedback firmware work?

If not, what should i look for when i ask for a suitable motor to the manufacturers?

Thank you.
 
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Hi everyone,

I am having some troubles in getting the ST motors to my country because of high taxes and shipping costs. It becomes so expensive that i have started to look for a solution inside the country.

So I have found these motors and drives:

1- ASD-B2-0721-B - Servo drive : https://www.damencnc.com/en/ac-servo-drive-750w-asd-b2-0721-b/a806

2 - ECMA-C20807RS - AC Servo Motor 750W 17 Bit 3000rpm Frensiz 2.39 Nm, 80mm flanş, 19mm şaft. :
https://www.damencnc.com/en/ac-servo-motor-750w-ecma-c20807rs/a815

Will these work? I will probably adjust the 3d printings if necessary.

Will simfeedback firmware work?

If not, what should i look for when i ask for a suitable motor to the manufacturers?

Thank you.
It's hard to believe that you can get these cheaper than the normally used ones, they're about 4 times as expensive! Technically I'd say they are superior (e.g. included support software, much better encoder resolution, much better documentation, probably higher pwm freq (no annoying 10kHz sound)) and can be made to work with simfeedback as they have the necessary inputs (pulse and direction), but you'll have to make your own connector (it's not DB25) and find out the correct parameter settings for the servo drive yourself. The normally used drivers/motors from aliexpress are basically a clone/copy of these.
 
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