Thrustmaster T300 ghost button press issues

[Dzsaffar]

So I've had this issue with my T300 before, but it got really bad recently. My wheel is basically detecting non-existing button presses all the time, making it borderline undrivable. Currently, I've had to stop playing rFactor 2 altogether, because there when the two shifter paddles get pressed at the same time, the car switches to neutral. And because the ghost button presses include the shifters, I'd regularly get switched to neutral mid-corner, which is - well, not particularly helpful when driving.

My T300 is quite old, have had it for at least 5 years, so I don't think there is a warranty for it anymore. I've actually had something like this before, but back then, it was nowhere near as severe, and sorta just fixed itself. This time, I tried fixing it by tightening the screw on the wheel, but that changed nothing - hell, it might even have made things worse.

I don't really have the funds to buy a new wheelbase, and I wouldn't really want to unless absolutely necessary. Has anyone had this problem? How were you able to fix it?

 

[RobRusso]

So I've had this issue with my T300 before, but it got really bad recently. My wheel is basically detecting non-existing button presses all the time, making it borderline undrivable. Currently, I've had to stop playing rFactor 2 altogether, because there when the two shifter paddles get pressed at the same time, the car switches to neutral. And because the ghost button presses include the shifters, I'd regularly get switched to neutral mid-corner, which is - well, not particularly helpful when driving.

My T300 is quite old, have had it for at least 5 years, so I don't think there is a warranty for it anymore. I've actually had something like this before, but back then, it was nowhere near as severe, and sorta just fixed itself. This time, I tried fixing it by tightening the screw on the wheel, but that changed nothing - hell, it might even have made things worse.

I don't really have the funds to buy a new wheelbase, and I wouldn't really want to unless absolutely necessary. Has anyone had this problem? How were you able to fix it?

Try using tuner cleaner on the plug where your wheel connects to the main body. I was having crazy issues and it cleared them completely. Good luck!

 

[slideways]

Been having the same issues with my T500 for years. It's a known issue for some. If I remove my wheel and then replace it, it fixes it for a while but always returns.

 

[WerferHarfer]

Did it work? Having t issues with my new sf1000 wheel.

 

[RobRusso]

Did it work? Having t issues with my new sf1000 wheel.

Yes! Applied this trick 10 months ago (T300 wheel) and no glitches since!
It can't hurt....

 

[WillyQuill]

Try using tuner cleaner on the plug where your wheel connects to the main body. I was having crazy issues and it cleared them completely. Good luck!

Tuner cleaner does the trick on the pin connectors. I work for a recycling company and have fixed more than 10 Thrustmaster bases that have come through the facility with this scenario. On a couple I had to replace the pin connectors on both sides but, for anyone who can solder adequately, it is straight forward.

In addition, I found that in some cases the two small Philips that hold the pin connectors firm on both the wheel and base sides are loose. I assume sometimes it comes from the factory this way occasionally because it will bend the pins causing connectivity issues on models less than a few months old. If after inspecting both sides of the connection and the pins are straight, gently snugging the screws down has helped a few times.

 

[maelstrom]

Also, make sure that the collar ataching the wheel to the wheel base is REALLY tight - use one of the 3d-printed tightening collars or, preferably, a strap spanner. Hand tightening is not always effective enough.

 

[RelPel]

Tuner cleaner does the trick on the pin connectors. I work for a recycling company and have fixed more than 10 Thrustmaster bases that have come through the facility with this scenario. On a couple I had to replace the pin connectors on both sides but, for anyone who can solder adequately, it is straight forward.

In addition, I found that in some cases the two small Philips that hold the pin connectors firm on both the wheel and base sides are loose. I assume sometimes it comes from the factory this way occasionally because it will bend the pins causing connectivity issues on models less than a few months old. If after inspecting both sides of the connection and the pins are straight, gently snugging the screws down has helped a few times.

Regarding replacement of pin connectors: Does a replacement for this particular Thrutmaster patent (the one that is fixed by the philips) exist as a spare part or did you fabricate a holder for the 6 pin mini-din using a regular mini din plug and cable like for older PC mice?