He loves to take everything apart, always like to see his tear downs!I find the way he gets a little sidetracked pretty entertaining, like how he ends up showing his circlip plier set in this one . I think he is the only youtuber for whom I turned notifications on
Usual good stuff from him though, showing the brake travel and the internal construction etc...
Hi Rob.TrueBrake is an upgrade for the for the Logitech G27/G29/G920 brake pedal which gives the pedal a positive and realistic feel.
No help to you unfortunately, but this reminds me of one nice little touch that Barry did in his review. He chose a low-cost stand to mount it all on and then had some straps to keep the seat in place.I'm using my G27 pedals on a carpet with no option in the near future to move to a rig
Yeah, that might be worth a try, thanks. There is some stuff between the pedals and the wall but I could probably find a way to shift it...f only a few feet, get a couple of small planks of wood, say 19mm thick x 125mm wide and cut to length, to put between pedal base and wall. Pedals will then be jammed against something solid.
It can be done for about £25 if you use @GeekyDeaks PCB design (that's including paying ~£15 for the 3d print so less if you have access to one), but if you're concerned about the brake curve then get a LeoBodnar module and make the pedals completely standalone (as I detailed in the Github comments section).Yesterday I found @GeekyDeaks DIY LoadCell mod. Started reading about it, and later I've found TrueBrake and now not sure what to choose:
1) GeekyDeaks DIY LoadCell
+ real load cell (much more reliable than any pot-based solution?)
+ ?price (it's unknown ;-)
- not compact DIY hard to install
- 3D printed body(fragile?)
- not G29 firendly because progressive curve, but according to @GeekyDeaks it can be corrected in firmware
I started by driving hundreds of laps in RRRE, then started adjusting the sensitivity/dead spots in game to get the best result. I think it's personal preference.Mine arrived today. It didn't help that my grounding screw head (from the original pedals, not this mod) has been worn (I cleaned the potentiometer a while ago) so I couldn't remove it, but the mod is installed. Now I need to know how to properly calibrate it for rF2 (e.g. where to set the min and max, unless it's just personal preference).
Hi mate thanks for sharing your perspective. When you refer to the old spring are you talking about the stock spring or the GTeye. I have the Gteye and just received the leo bodnar usb standalone cable and wondering it worth it upgrading to this solution. Appreciate everyone's preference is different but would like to hear your experience comparing the GTeye and the AXCI started by driving hundreds of laps in RRRE, then started adjusting the sensitivity/dead spots in game to get the best result. I think it's personal preference.
I haven't got on to F2 yet, I've stuck with one sim for consistency. I wouldn't go back to the old springs now. After a LOT of laps over the weekend, I am 'up to speed' i.e. matching my old lap times, but still inconsistent & working to find my sweet spot, so it's taking a while for me.
It might not be the same experience for everyone. For me it is certainly not a plug and play, quick fix option. It needs time and a bit of thought for me to work out where my new braking points & pedal pressures are. But I still feel the same - I am extremely happy with it & I'm enjoying dialling it in as it has so much more potential than the old spring.
I'm also yet to experiment with the different buffers. It's a right pain unbolting my pedals from under my desk & I already did it three times this weekend 1) fitting the new brake spring 2)forgot to swap the other springs 3) put the clutch & throttle springs the wrong way round. Doh.
Thanks for the response. Think will stick with what I got for now as it works for me atm and cant fathom the idea of taking my pedals of my rig.I was talking about the old, original G27 brake spring, but:
I did have the GTEye spring in there for about three years, until it suddenly snapped a month ago.
The GTeye was certainly better than the original because it was stiffer, and there was also a slight progression in the stiffness, so I really liked it.
But this Truebrake is completely different to either of those springs because of 1)the shorter travel and 2)the feeling that it is the pressure that matters, NOT the travel.
What I mean is, when using either of those other springs, you had to learn how far to press your foot for full lock, half pressure, or just a bit of brake scrubbing. And it was a long travel.
When using TrueBrake, it's more like you have to learn how hard to press the pedal rather than how far, and the long travel is gone.
So for me, the GTEye was a great improvement, and the Truebrake is another step up.
The only negative(if you can call it that) which some might not like, is the time needed to 'unlearn and relearn' the different pedal behaviour. But then I've been using these simple spring type pedals for, I don't know, as long as they've been around (20+ years?), so my foot has some hard habits to break & it doesn't happen overnight.
My TrueBrake arrived this morning. While fitting it, I also swapped the other springs, so I put the brake spring into the clutch pedal, and the clutch spring into the accelerator.