Twin Sims... The Build

Bailing on inverted pedals is a good decision. It took me a while to get mine where I was happy with them and it is a whole lot of extra effort that I would never recommend unless you have an issue. At least that was the case for me.

Wheels depend a lot on what type of racing you plan to do.

Personally I have two wheels.

1. A BLANK Momo Rally wheel with zero controls on it. It's 33cm and round, but that assumes you have a button box in addition.

2. A GT-3 wheel with paddle shifters, no clutch, but it has rotaries, switches, buttons.

That's all I need. I'm not ready to juggle all the controls on a Formula wheel.

There are a number of good wheels out there.

These wheels are not cheap, but they will be around for a long while.

I'm hearing a lot of positive things about Grid wheels from a number of people.
Ascher is has been a known good for years.
I got a Precision Sim Engineering wheel which is also very good
I understand Cube is improving

I don't know what feels good in your hands or the hands of people with you., so it's hard to say what will work for you.
 
  • Deleted member 197115

Can you give a source for that?
Simucube reps confirmed that at the recent SimExpo.

They obviously did not provide timing, so expect "surprise" announcement in a year or so, just like they did with SC2 while SC1 was still actively selling. At least this time we have some warning, official confirmation on product in development, some info on new QR, proprietary Ethernet based protocol, removing BT from wheelbase, some sort of data/power feed through the wheelbase shaft, etc.
Simucube Link already has BT module providing compatibility with the "older" SC2 BT wheels.
SW is already there (AP Tuner), they even have publicly released diagrams showing new wheelbase connected to the rest of the ecosystem.
1709741987159.png
 
  • Deleted member 197115

As for the pedals shopping, I've found this resource quite helpful narrowing my own choice.
They have guides on other equipment as well, check them out too.
 
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Thoughts?
Starting over, I would first pick a wheel, then wheelbase with which it is compatible,
provided that system supports generic 70mm 6-bolt wheels.

I mostly drive using generic plain round rims
- one 320mm for generic cars
- one 380mm wood rim for sports cars before power steering
round-jpg.530709

Sequential shifting with those wheels is by DCD WRC shifter,
although mine quickly broke off its USB port (I understand that has since been redesigned).

For a wheel with controls, I like thumbwheels within easy reach of thumbs,
e.g. SIMAGIC FX Formula Steering Wheel,
or Asetek Forte
which would consequently narrow down wheel base choices...
 
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Simucube reps confirmed that at the recent SimExpo.

They obviously did not provide timing, so expect "surprise" announcement in a year or so, just like they did with SC2 while SC1 was still actively selling. At least this time we have some warning, official confirmation on product in development, some info on new QR, proprietary Ethernet based protocol, removing BT from wheelbase, some sort of data/power feed through the wheelbase shaft, etc.
Simucube Link already has BT module providing compatibility with the "older" SC2 BT wheels.
SW is already there (AP Tuner), they even have publicly released diagrams showing new wheelbase connected to the rest of the ecosystem.
View attachment 736207
Thanks for unearthing this teaser, I couldn´t find anything solid, let alone official,
only speculation in a forum.
 
About wheels:

button box plus wheel rim of your choice is a solid option.

Absolutely needed for "social racing" are paddle shifters, buttons optional.
For my online races I additionally like rotary encoders (Brake Bias, TC etc) and at least one 7way for the pit menue.

Also generations of racers (irl and sim) have lived just fine with cable operated wheels.

So a lower buck option could be :

If you compare pay attention to tax and shipping (SRB for example is without tax) and check availability, that´s often a problem with sim gear.
 
My advice...

To do this properly, you should focus on one build first.
Decide the components, make the thing how you want, sort out the issues, discover what you like or do not like with the purchases and original ideas...

When you reach the level of satisfaction, then buy a second setup...

Pedals:
I think you seriously should have been considering Simlab pedals ahead of Sprints....
Just about every review liked them and stated they look/feel much more than their asking price. Still have mine of the desk, as also in the middle of a new build, but oh boy do they look and feel good.




Displays:
Its nice to experience multiple displays but 32:9 is more than enough for most people. Triple average quality monitors may not be in all ways better or (image wise/refresh) as a better quality single screen. You have to decide if the extra hassle and installation triples will bring is worth the wow factor but its not all +++ with triples. What we are seeing is fewer and fewer developers supporting it and monitor manufacturers are pushing larger screens, high res/high refresh and finally monitors that are starting to get good with HDR appear.



 
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Grateful for all the feedback. Thanks!

Dont overlook button boxes. SRB boxes connect wirelessly to SC2 and you can put whatever blank wheel you like on them.

button box plus wheel rim of your choice is a solid option.

Ahhhh The light goes on. Yes, very good idea in deed.

Not particularly fond of the blue and red buttons on the SRB BB but the wireless connectivity is a significant plus.

To do this properly, you should focus on one build first.
Decide the components, make the thing how you want, sort out the issues, discover what you like or do not like with the purchases and original ideas...

When you reach the level of satisfaction, then buy a second setup...

Believe me, I have struggled with the decision over this path significantly. Following this suggestion would no doubt result in a superior second rig but the time frame is just unacceptable to the goal I have in place which is to get TWO functioning rigs ASAP. My youngest daughter is a freshman in High School and before you know it, she will be out of the house. I read something this year that you will spend 90% of the time you EVER spend with your children between 0 and 18 years old. She just turned 15 and the clock is ticking.

I am hoping this is yet another thing we can do together while the opportunity still exists.

Displays:
Its nice to experience multiple displays but 32:9 is more than enough for most people.

I don't disagree. The singles would allow for better placement in the room and possibly open up the experience as a more social setting making it easier to communicate (aka, talk smack... LOL ) to the other driver.

The below is a screen shot from the ASR tracing facility tour video (their "Pit Lane" room) where they run VRL Lounge control to allow for multi-player experience, leader boards, etc. Notice the open feel and not closed off from the other drivers.

1709774668793.png


Could you have an absolute blast with two of those in a room? I think so.

Still not impossible I could end up this way... (Yikes... did I say that out loud???)))
 
Just went looking at 49" monitors. The are only 14.4 inches tall including the bezel. 32" 16x9 are roughly 17.1" with bezel. Less than 3 inches doesn't seem like much (that's what she said. LOL) but at nearly 23% taller (and don't check my may here because it isn't exact) seems like a lot when you put it out in front of you at about arm's length.

Think I will stay the course with triples.
 
RE: Round steering wheels

Materials

Alcantara / suede - Pros 1) excellent grip 2) authentic race equipment; Cons 1) suede requires brushing and will show signs of wear quickly, 2) alcantara may require a little less attention but also shows wear, 3) both will absolutely require users to wear gloves for longevity

Leather - Pro: best from a wear standpoint; Con: can become slippery from perspiration.

Wood - Pros: 1) captures the early sportscar era, 2) wears well; Con: can be slippery

Sizes

280-290 mm - 1970s-1990s open wheel cars
320-330 mm - excellent all around size
340-350 mm - approximates most daily driven cars
380 mm - 1950s-early '60s sports cars

Brands with comments

MOMO - one of the original sportscar wheels, outstanding quality, $$$
Motomec - less expensive
NRG - less expensive in some cases, basic to bling colors
OMP - on par with MOMO, basic , $$$
Renown - quality lots of color combos)
Sparco - on par with MOMO, basic, $$$
Nardi - $$$$, 74 PCD pattern requires an adapter
Personal - $$$$, 74 PCD pattern
Volante - $$; have not owned but quality appeard good
 
  • Deleted member 197115

Just went looking at 49" monitors. The are only 14.4 inches tall including the bezel. 32" 16x9 are roughly 17.1" with bezel. Less than 3 inches doesn't seem like much (that's what she said. LOL) but at nearly 23% taller (and don't check my may here because it isn't exact) seems like a lot when you put it out in front of you at about arm's length.

Think I will stay the course with triples.
49" is three 20" monitors stitched together.
Samsung_G9-FOV.jpg


If you need more than that, try new G9 Neo 57" mentioned earlier.

And remember, sim racers are taking a sick pleasure of pushing crap they own on others. Gives us a validation for our own bad choices. :roflmao:
 
I have an Ascher Racing button box that pairs wirelessly with my SC2, and I love it a lot. I use it with a 320mm round steering wheel and I use it mainly to drive street cars, drift cars, and some GT3 cars in Assetto Corsa.

The battery has yet to require replacement in my 14 months of ownership.

Like you, I also prefer a wired connection for reliability reasons (my favorite mouse is a wired logitech that's about 12 years old), but this button box has swayed me. Dealing with a cable while drifting isn't fun, and I don't notice any latency issues with any button presses. I highly recommend this button box.
 
And remember, sim racers are taking a sick pleasure of pushing crap they own on others. Gives us a validation for our own bad choices. :roflmao:
Jepp, the thread has certainly reached that phase. (as it always does).
That´s what you get for asking "the Internet" ;)

Steering wheels:

Alcantara "get´s old fast" even with gloves and is almost impossible to clean/desinfect.
I´d definitely go with leather.

Size and wheight of the wheel are important, even with SC2 pro you´ll feel more "lively"/detailed FFB with a smaller/lighter wheel. But nothing your guest´s will notice as they will have no comparison.

I personally split my time between an Ascher Formula wheel for GT and Formula cars and a "blanco" Fanatec R300 (no shifters/buttons) for my favorite MixerCup.
(only part from F. I can recommend, no mechanics/electronics!

There are more wheels that I seldomly use.

When shopping for wheels take notice of the PCD 6x70mm is the most common for button boxes and wheels (irl and sim)
 
Thanks again for all the comments!

Materials

Alcantara / suede - Pros 1) excellent grip 2) authentic race equipment; Cons 1) suede requires brushing and will show signs of wear quickly, 2) alcantara may require a little less attention but also shows wear, 3) both will absolutely require users to wear gloves for longevity

Excellent summary post! Thanks! As for material, want longevity, easy to clean. Leather seems to be the best for my needs. May consider Air Leather even through may not last as long and not as easy to clean. I saw one other kind of perforated leather last night, but I can't find it right now.

Sizes

280-290 mm - 1970s-1990s open wheel cars
320-330 mm - excellent all around size
340-350 mm - approximates most daily driven cars
380 mm - 1950s-early '60s sports cars

Great reference

Brands with comments

Thanks. I was creating a similar list last night as I went through Grid, Ascher, PSE, Cube, Momo, OMP, and Sparco. Now a have a few more to look at.

And remember, sim racers are taking a sick pleasure of pushing crap they own on others. Gives us a validation for our own bad choices.

Ya, have been warned of this and understand this from many aspects of life. Weeding through as many threads and sources possible.

The battery has yet to require replacement in my 14 months of ownership.

Have seen several references backing up the longevity of the batteries on these things. Tech has come a long way from D-cells. LOL

Dealing with a cable while drifting isn't fun,

Kind of what I was thinking. If you are in a formula car only using about 180 degrees, the wire would have little impact but when you are whipping around a round wheel drifting...

Alcantara "get´s old fast" even with gloves and is almost impossible to clean/desinfect.
I´d definitely go with leather.

:thumbsup:

EDIT... I think this was the perforated leather I was looking at. Maybe not such a good idea.

When shopping for wheels take notice of the PCD 6x70mm is the most common for button boxes and wheels (irl and sim)

Thanks. Don't need a surprise with something that does not fit together. I was checking button box compatibility charts as well through those seem to be a little harder to find.
 
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Brainflash/Mindfart:

How do two SC wireless systems in close proximity work?
My Ascher is still connected on it´s resting place next to the rig.:O_o:

Is it as simple as starting/pairing them one after the other?
 
Brainflash/Mindfart:

How do two SC wireless systems in close proximity work?
My Ascher is still connected on it´s resting place next to the rig.:O_o:

Is it as simple as starting/pairing them one after the other?
Glad you mentioned that. I had that thought a day or two ago but never wrote it down. It has to work some how as companies are setting up room with identical sims for corporate events etc. I will deninately verify before pulling the trigger.

Swapping wheels could be interesting...
 
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I'm still happy to have cables rather than wireless tied to a custom spec. If there is an SC 3 coming that uses a new communication protocol and they have some other new feature that is compelling enough to make me upgrade, I can continue to use my favorite wheel.

Personally I've been bitten by batteries, and wireless protocols enough over the years that I tend to avoid them whenever possible. I know I can plug in my wheel and it will always work.

It's not that it is a huge deal, but there are already so many points of complexity and points of failure as a rig become more complex, than any time I can remove a point of failure, I do.
 

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