Anyone ripped up a G27? (before i do ;) )

I have not ripped up a wheel yet, but, i have a spare g27 laying about the place that can be sacrificed.

I have some questions about the hardware from anyone that knows.

My assumptions:
there is a stepper drive with a rotary encoder? or a just a servo?
Its connected by a geared belt to the wheel?
If yes above, is construction heavy enough for me to machine up some unotched 15' vbelt replacements under high load?
Anyone know the hardware resolution of the stepper? 1.8/0.9/0.6? (ignore if servo)

Further Assumption on those assumptions.
If it is a stepper+encoder then somewhere are microstep settings to adjust resolution, anyone found them?
is the "notchiness in fact the belt, or just the stepper magnets transmitting to the wheel?
(i have some dirt cheap 5 axis geared belt drive systems that are silky smooth, the only thing you can feel by hand turning the drive are the actual magnetic poles, not the belt, but once microstepped and in motion zero impact on the feel of the drive). CHeap belts with too much eleasticity can cause teeth to "rub/release" and cause notchiness, but again, Im doubting its this.
As we know, more speed == less torque, and more microsteps == less actual positional accuracy, so presumably if its a stepper, then going from 1.8 to 0.9 will half the notchiness at the expense of torque, unless you go beefier, and beefier 0.9 degree steppers are pricy...

IF its a servo it is already rubbish because only the encoder is handling positional accuracy, they have less poles typically and would feel far more "lumpy" than they do, in this case its just a cheap belt mechanism that can be addressed. A self braking servo with a higher positional rotary encoder can help with that, but I doubt its the case. (and they are expensive!)

In all cases, presumably some hex hacking is required to find the settings in the logitech software or ffb will be screwed.

Anyone tried this or a heads up to a blog of someone that has.
TIA
 
I can only tell you that I replaced the optical encoder in my G27 a few years ago, with a brass one, as the plastic one becomes loose or cracks, which causes the wheel to calibrate off centre, or lose centre while driving. WIth the brass wheel, it is pretty permanently solved.
But that's a long time ago so I can't remember much else.

On Youtube, search for G25G27Optical Encoder CMLaser to see the encoder wheel, it has 60 slots I think.
 
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I don't understand your thinking about why a servo would be bad because "only" the encoder is handling positional accuracy.

In any case, the G27 has a pair of brushed DC motors, one of which has an optical encoder on the back. They drive the wheel via helical gears (no belt) and that's probably the main source of the notchy feeling.
You'll find a shedload of teardowns on the net if you go looking.
To replace the innards and keep it functioning "the same" at a software level could be a rather tall order. I would seriously doubt that it's worth bothering unless you're really bored ;)
 
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Gear backlash causes the lumpy feeling. Belt drive is smoother, but some cogged belt designs are coggy-feeling usually due to small diameter pullies.
 
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I don't understand your thinking about why a servo would be bad because "only" the encoder is handling positional accuracy.

In any case, the G27 has a pair of brushed DC motors, one of which has an optical encoder on the back. They drive the wheel via helical gears (no belt) and that's probably the main source of the notchy feeling.
You'll find a shedload of teardowns on the net if you go looking.
To replace the innards and keep it functioning "the same" at a software level could be a rather tall order. I would seriously doubt that it's worth bothering unless you're really bored ;)

i tossed all the servos on my CNC and went back to stepper/encoder combo because of over/under shoot issues, I have a bit of a love/hate issue with them.

wow, ok, so directly gear driving it. but, that makes it easier, i was thinking i have to rip down a belt system. Software side of things, not too stressed, someone somewhere will have made on opensource platform for this and/or a breakout board, cant be that far (electronically speaking) from a cnc BOB?

Bored. ya, covid... finished building my second cnc, my DLP machine all upgraded, my canbus telemetry project for my bike.. Ive run out of things to do in my garage... I may have to learn the wife and kids names soon if I dont start another project..
 
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I can only tell you that I replaced the optical encoder in my G27 a few years ago, with a brass one, as the plastic one becomes loose or cracks, which causes the wheel to calibrate off centre, or lose centre while driving. WIth the brass wheel, it is pretty permanently solved.
But that's a long time ago so I can't remember much else.

On Youtube, search for G25G27Optical Encoder CMLaser to see the encoder wheel, it has 60 slots I think.

Many thanks! the current g27 has no issues, just figured it does not seem like a terrible hard thing to build. I had another thought about positional accuracy, and occurs to me the application by its very nature will not be accurate, things like ffb slip are quite analog, might be over thinking it.
 
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Gear backlash causes the lumpy feeling. Belt drive is smoother, but some cogged belt designs are coggy-feeling usually due to small diameter pullies.

i get backlash causing issue of you change direction, but typically going in the same direction should not be an issue. the g27/29 have a very granular feel to them, given i now know they are helical gears, perhaps just shonky gears. I have it up on my workbench for pull apart today.
 
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started with this long ago

i since added a canbus board and grab all the telemetry together now.. hardest part was finding out where Yamaha hide the gear change bits ;)

No one following the project so stopped updating it, ill do an update next weekend or so as i have time and post up the hardware anf balance of code.

 
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Nice!

Is the UI processing done on the display? I had a quick scan through the code and it looked like it was all done via the serial interface, but I could not quite tell if you were defining pixels or UI elements on the arduino side.

I'll have a better look at it after I finish work
 
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half and half, half the code sets up a serial displays goodies, the other half accepts data from gps/accelerometer/9dof gyro/canbus. It runs "ok" on the arduino, but, its a LOT of daya and even on a Mega I am running out of serial ports, thinking of a rebuild to the new RPi, then throw in back and front video camera as well.. maybe this xmas when i get time off.
 
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I'd also be interested to know how well the display works with gloves. I don't think any of my bikes are young enough to have canbus to take advantage of telemetry, but I could do with updating my DIY audio hack from a PIC with a momentary toggle switch and that display looks like it might just do the job nicely

EDIT: apologies, just realised I have completely hijacked your original thread!
 
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