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Apps FFBClip app 5.3

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How is this program different to wheelcheck.exe?

Wheelcheck also tests, makes csv then generates LUT, which you use in ff_post_process.ini

Wheelcheck makes your wheel linear, FFBClip scales the force to give you a clip free (or as much clipping as you prefer) experience.

A linear wheel is worthless if it clips half the signal. They complement each other, and work in entirely different ways, in different parts of the signal chain.
 
Wheelcheck makes your wheel linear, FFBClip scales the force to give you a clip free (or as much clipping as you prefer) experience.

A linear wheel is worthless if it clips half the signal. They complement each other, and work in entirely different ways, in different parts of the signal chain.

Ok. Non linear FFB always feels "mushy" to me, but I will try this.

Should I keep using the LUT file made by wheelcheck in ff_post_process.ini when I try thisFFBClip?

Also, do you have any G27 specific advice?

The best FFB I ever experienced is F1 1991 HE on rFactor using 50% leoffb and 50% realfeel with the correct steering column lengths per car inserted into the.ini. The SAT (self aligning torque) sharpness was just supreme in that when breaking traction at the rear.
 
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:( I tried FFBClip.

Just as I thought it feels mushy. Like someone else is driving, not me. There is a delay when the "dynamic" mode determines what FFB should be sent to the wheel.

On a straight road, abruptly turn the wheel at slow speed left and right to create understeer and each time you do it the drop in resistance is different. Sometimes it doesn't even drop. Because it gets confused?

It's like two people are driving the car, me and someone else. Every corner the car behavior is different. Like computer controlled active suspension lol. Not nice, or realistic.

Is there anyway to speed up the calculations or solve this problem another way?

Dynamic seems to be for people who want their wheel heavy all the time but don't care that the FFB effects are bogus for every corner.

Tested with 98T and Jordan 191.

-------
System:
i8700K
1080TI
G27 105%-0%-70%
AC: Gain 105%-Minimum 0%-Kerb 0%-Road 10%-Slip 3%
 
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Wheelcheck makes your wheel linear, FFBClip scales the force to give you a clip free (or as much clipping as you prefer) experience.

A linear wheel is worthless if it clips half the signal.

I believe that's a mistake in logic.

Most people do not have a direct drive wheel. Most people have a G27/G29 or Thrustmaster, etc.

Clipping is wanted. People with G27/G29 or Thrustmaster do not care if they need to exert "a lot" of force or "an insane amount of force"

There is no "insane amount of force" on a G27.

In real life, a corner taken at

150kph = 15nm of steering force
250kph = 25nm of steering force
300kph = 30nm of steering force

For a G27 user it is meaningless to set the wheels' maximum FFB to 300kph (30nm FFB) and make all other ffb forces scale down and therefore feeble by comparison.

It is enough to make the wheel heaviest at medium speed corners and steering wheel kickback on grip (self aligning torque) and clip all the higher cornering forces.

This way most wheel users get the most realistic pleasure. There is no "insane amount of force to take a 300kph corner" possible on a G27 anyway. Why pretend and scale everything else down to nothingness.

Compressing all the FBB down in a non linear way (from max physical wheel torque) is not wise either. Because most driving pleasure is from the steering wheel reactions at the balance of grip (SAT) breaking traction and regaining it (oversteer and understeer) and feeling it at the wheel.

Not from simulating the torque needed to take a 300kph corner flat out. In addition a non linear compression of FFB causes unrealistic and confusing signals from the car to the driver, not least because the dynamic FFB generation is not instantaneous but lags in feedback, like an active suspension F1 car.

The best thing to do in my opinion (G27), is use wheelcheck.exe to create a linear FFB output csv, create the LUT using LUT generator, set Slip, Kerb and Road to 0% (Road and slip maybe a few percent according to taste), set minimum to 0 and then boost ingame FFB beyond 100% using Numpad + until the weight feels realistic when breaking grip. FFB Clipping then at 250kmh+ is a non issue.
 
You misunderstand what the app does, I think.

The ONLY game parameter the app can touch is the GAIN.

Also, the dynamic mode is for those that want all the forces, all the time. Use auto mode. Set the app to a bit over 100% for the weak wheels, that will allow some clipping. If you turn the graph on you can see exactly what is sent to the LUT, and where the clipping point is.

Using the recommended settings will do exactly what you want it to, but does the " set minimum to 0 and then boost ingame FFB beyond 100% using Numpad + until the weight feels realistic when breaking grip" part for you, consistently, for every car and track combo. All you have to do is determine how much clipping you want to allow.

This is why I made a Direct Drive Mode, since the premise is so different from normal consumer wheels.

Hope that cleared up any misunderstanding.
 
hi guys,
the FFBClip have been prefect for me, but since i installed the "content manager", i couldn't find the FFBClip in game side bar, may i know how can i fix it?
Both of the game setting menu and content manager can detect FFBClip, just the FFBClip is disappear in game side bar. thanks.
1.png

2.png

IMG_1236.jpg

IMG_1238.jpg
 
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hi
sorry for my english 1st of all
for me it s not clear if thera are two line one green and the oltrer jellow
in the graphic or if the jellow line it s only the orizzontal line
it not possible change the color ?
grazie ciao a tutti
ffb.JPG
 
In histogram mode, like you are in now, the red line shows the clipping point, but it's meaningless in histogram mode. The yellow shows the cutoff point. If you have lots of "fuzz" to the right of that yellow line you are going into clipping, or over your desired setting quite a lot. Some data above there is fine, but there shouldn't be any peaks or bumps in the graph.

In graph mode the red line shows your clipping level. Any graph points above the red line are clipped.

Having said this, you should drive with the graph off. It's distracting and takes a lot of computing power to redraw it. It's more a tool for making sure everything is working properly. :)
 
Does the app take in consideration which wheel is used, does it know how strong or weak the wheel is?
When watching the FFB clipping meter in AC, does it take in consideration what wheel is connected and how strong the wheel is or set to be
Does the strength of the wheel has an impact on the FFB clipping?
How does the game know what wheel is connected to the game. Is it possible to have clipping when using a DD wheel?
Does FFB clipping even related in nany way to how strong a wheel is?
 
That was many questions in one. :)

The app doesn't know how strong the wheel is. It only looks at the output from the game. The output is from 0 to 100%, and doesn't care if 100% is 2Nm or 30Nm of torque. This is because the clipping is in the software, completely removed from the hardware.

Now, for the second part. If you set the DD mode for the app, it will ask you how strong your wheel is. This is to be able to scale the forces in Nm.
For insurance, my DD wheel is 26Nm at full power. This means that the app knows that 100% output from the game means 26Nm. So, if I want 13Nm I know I need to aim for 50% output.

Having said that, there can be hardware clipping too, but my app can't do anything about that. I have covered this in my big calibration thread over in the main game forum.
 
Thank you, so I will also understand that when the grey FFB clipping meter (in the pedals app display) turns red in AC it is only in relation to the AC software clipping and totally independent from the hardware attached to the PC, in other words, it is the software that is clipping, not the hardware wheel.
I have always been confused about that issue, so thank you for sharing your expertise on that ever popular subject.
 

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