Mobile Driving/Flying Cockpit with Motion and Tactile ( Build )

[RCHeliguy]

I get to keep my dead pedal with these outboard and I can extend them back where I wanted them higher for better support.

I'm just not sure I like how it looks with the supports on the outside.

 

[blekenbleu]

not sure

Consider mounting them on front/leading edges.

 

[RCHeliguy]

I'm considering a lot of things right now. I might be able to make this work.
This gives more support because the U is facing forward.
The length isn't restricted by interference with the pedals.
It doesn't interfere with anything in the back and actually opens things up.
My dead pedal gets to stay.
My USB cable holders on the back of the vertical.

I'm still changing things too quickly to actually order hardware, but it's getting closer.

 

[metalnwood]

You must really, really, really - I mean really like inverted pedals to go through all of this

 

[RCHeliguy]

You must really, really, really - I mean really like inverted pedals to go through all of this

I was perfectly happy with how my brake and clutch felt upright.

Inverted is the only way I could keep my throttle heel from dragging or to have my the pedal catch as it slid on the underside of my shoe. Inverted it is perfectly smooth with zero catching of any kind now. That's a personal ergonomic issue I think, but upright it drove me crazy.

My inverted brake feels very good now, but I don't think it's better than upright.
The clutch took quite a bit of effort to get right inverted. That was my biggest pain point inverting the pedals.

So for the record I personally advise people against inverting their pedals UNLESS they have an issue that they can't resolve. I tried everything I could to make the upright throttle work for me and I couldn't get it right for me.

 

[metalnwood]

Is it not possible with the printer and other tools you have available to you now to make something that will work for the throttle?

I have to have my pedals very much tilted forward presenting the pedal face and keeping the arm away or I would sometimes get myself in to a position where I would also be touching the armand wasting pressure there where it was not doing much.

Is it not possible to come up with some arrangement and printing a new pedal face for the throttle that presents a profile to fix those issues? Given its only the throttle and no pressure there shouldnt be much issue.

 

[blekenbleu]

Inverted is the only way I could keep my throttle heel from dragging

I wear moose hide moccasins that reduce throttle heel friction;
too lazy to sort a proper hanging throttle for heel&toe.

 

[RCHeliguy]

Is it not possible with the printer and other tools you have available to you now to make something that will work for the throttle?

I have to have my pedals very much tilted forward presenting the pedal face and keeping the arm away or I would sometimes get myself in to a position where I would also be touching the armand wasting pressure there where it was not doing much.

Is it not possible to come up with some arrangement and printing a new pedal face for the throttle that presents a profile to fix those issues? Given its only the throttle and no pressure there shouldnt be much issue.

I experimented profusely. I tried everything I could think of. I fielded many suggestions and tried them out. Nothing felt right until I inverted the pedals.

 

[RCHeliguy]

I'll mull this over for a little while.

 

[RCHeliguy]

I couldn't think of anything else to change, So I ordered what I needed to complete this.
That included more M8-16 beveled bolts, 1/4" aluminum and a lot of things from 8020.net.

I got the actuator grade linear bearings that can handle lots of sudden acceleration/deceleration. It mostly has to do with how the UHMW is secured inside the casing using metal inserts vs screwing directly into the material and adds about $30 cost to each. In the end I ordered some things I didn't need just to have fresh profile precut to length to same my time. I'll have to fabricate 6 isolator brackets and the BK rear mount as well as the foot plate. Everything else should bolt up.

The trickledown is that I needed to double up my wheel hangar so it would have enough clearance. I may also need to remove the wheel while in operation depending on how the vibrations are.

 

[blekenbleu]

actuator grade linear bearings

Perhaps you can also test without linear bearings
to assess whether/how much rocking is bad.

 

[RCHeliguy]

Perhaps you can also test without linear bearings
to assess whether/how much rocking is bad.

I was planning on that.

Having the linear bearings will allow me to perfectly center the isolation bolts in the slightly oversized holes, and possibly support much stronger brake pressure without any flex at all.

They may also allow me to keep my lightweight yellow springs in place rather than the blue or red. The yellow can be slightly compressed by hand and I'm quite sure they would flex in this configuration without support. To be clear I'm not just talking about twist. The yellow are light enough that I think they might distort forward with enough pressure.

 

[RCHeliguy]

I just heard that my local makerspace should be setup to give Lathe classes again soon! I've been eyeballing chunks of aluminum Mmmmm.... Fun!

I was just thinking about some very cool projects that would require a combination of the Mill and lathe. But they look seriously time consuming.

 

[RCHeliguy]

Raw aluminum and countersunk M8x16 bolts.
The 12"x24" plate will be the foot plate.
The 3x3" 1/4 6061 aluminum angle behind it will be for the bottom isolation mounts.
The 2x4" 1/4 6063 aluminum angle will be for the top isolation mounts.
The 10"x12" plate will be cut down for a new sliding plate if I ever mount some Ultimate+ pedals on my rig.

Since the top mounts are on vertical slots, I just need the geometry between the mount on top of the 40x40 profile and the opposite mount on the 40x120 right. Height can be whatever I want it to be. The bottom mount is in a horizontal slot, so I'll have to get the height exactly where I want the mount to support the foot plate.

Now to wait a while for the profile, joint plates and linear bearings to arrive.
Edit: I've been told from 8020.net that my parts should ship next Thursday.

 

[RCHeliguy]

Got RBRPro working with my NLRv3 and G-Belt this morning.
I had to get the right package installed to drive the NPG telemetry turn it on and set up a second UDP port.
I had to point SimCommander to the RBRProUpdate.exe but have it trigger on RichardBurnsRallySSE.exe launching.

The tactile is good, but Peter Winkler gave me a profile he's been working on so par for the course. Not trying to understate that, I think I'm just getting spoiled.

The NLRv3 motion is getting there. I'm still dialing it in a bit, but I've just about got the body motion matching to my eyes what I feel. Nothing was over the top by default.

The G-Belt is giving me better effects than I get in Dirt Rally 2.0. When I brake on gravel I can feel the brake force stuttering like I would expect. The bump effects are better as well. The cornering also seems a be more natural.

I'm pretty impressed with RBR so far in terms of everything working realistically. The advanced Rally school is actually pretty hard. I need to recalibrate my hand brake now. DR2 barely took anything to break the car free, but RBR is more a linear progression, so I will need all of my handbrake for this to work correctly.

Even the clutch engages more believably. I'm just starting to notice things that now are painting a pretty stark contrast to DR2. I swear I can almost feel the clutch engaging. It's uncanny.

The graphics aren't amazing, but they aren't bad. I'm running 120fps in VR at 60% GPU right now with no reprojection so I have no complaints about its efficiency.

FYI, if You decide to take the plunge.
https://www.rbrpro.org/Home/Downloads

In the RBR forum rallysimfans is recommended as being easier to get working

Rallysimfans.hu - rallysimfans.hu plugin

I don't know how the two compare after you get them running. I imagine that the difference is mostly the managing application.

 

[anton_Chez]

I'm excited that the Gbelt works so well in this title. I will definitely, ONE DAY, get back into RBR and give it a spin with all the new gear and tactile. The difference in RBR managers is exactly that, the launcher and the features that each one has. Also, the physics that each one is using, as well as the compatible stages that each one offer. For the most part, they are the same. Content, graphics, controls, etc. all come from the base game. But the physics and competition features are different per manager. I've tried 3 but none in depth. I've got a full install of the rallysimfans manager, they have a Discord and updates get pinged in there. So it's really easy to keep track of everything.

 

[RCHeliguy]

Got my first vase of roses from the rose garden for 2022.

Trying to distract myself. I keep almost buying myself a set of Ultimate+ pedals I don't need. I've had it in my cart 3 times now. That's not a good sign. Stop and smell the roses.....

 

[blekenbleu]

keep almost buying

A little surprised that you are not more tempted by a G-seat...

 

[RCHeliguy]

A little surprised that you are not more tempted by a G-seat...

A G-seat weighs too much for my NLRv3 and I don't have room for a chassis mover. I really like my seat and don't want to give up comfort. I'm also concerned about the noisy actuators.

Some things are a trade off and not all upside.

The reality is that I'm still space limited and any more than the maximum brake pressure of my Sprint pedals will cause my NLRv3 to shut down mid race.

 

[RCHeliguy]

Profile, linear bearings, mount plates, etc.. ship in a couple days, so I was making sure all the necessary bolts and T-nuts were accounted for. Despite my fairly large supply of misc sizes, it was close. Granted I will recover a few bolts from the existing pedal deck.

What's surprising is how expensive a piece of 40x160x500mm profile is. SimLab has them priced reasonably, but the shipping is 83 euro. 8020.net and McMasterCarr don't carry that size. They have 80x160, but that won't fit. Most other places don't have pricing listed and require asking for a quote.

What I may do if I go down that path is take a piece of 40x40 and drill it from the side and just through bolt it on the edge of a piece of 40x120. That's to accommodate the Ultimate+ pedals.

That brings me to another thing. I have looked at a lot of different pedal systems. I'm not interested in hydraulics. However I have been told that the HE dampers can leak. Of course they replace them under warranty. What is surprising is how many pedal systems have truly beautiful engineering, appearance and CNC work for a similar price. It seems that pedal companies have sprung up at an amazing rate. I've heard a few people complain that HE hasn't evolved or kept up with the times. I've heard complaints of corrosion on new parts of both Sprints and Ultimate+ pedals. HE does not make the prettiest pedals. What all these new companies don't have are piles of hours of testing over a long period of time.