New Meca pedals ( Meca EVO1 – Hydraulic ) in a hydraulic and LC version were announced.

[WarmRed]

The Meca Cup 1 are already good, am curious whether these will raise the bar even higher.

https://mecasimhardware.com/de/product/meca-evo1-hydraulic/

 

[Jan Larsen]

Good to see companies starting to reposition the brake stack to a location where you can actually get to it. Not sure about the Wilwood master cylinder, they're prone to leaking (or used to be) and is placed right above the curcuit board.

 

[Marcel B.]

I got mine yesterday. Pedal feeling is good. Everything super-sturdy. Clutch still does not feel like a clutch (Heusinkveld does it better). The software is still very buggy (version 1.4.1), e.g. configurations can not be saved, instead of open a save dialog it opens an "open" dialog (!). And if you like fancy wrapping, nice extras, stickers, unboxing experience - then Meca is the wrong choice. It is boxed well, but minimalistic.

 

[stigs2cousin]

These are definitely on my watch list

from my limited internet knowledge the Wilwood master cylinders were not a problem and you can freely position the electronic box away from the hydraulics anyway.

What reportedly made problemes was the slave cylinder made by Wilwood for clutch use and (wrongly) utilised for the brake by many companies, where it saw pressures it probably was not designed for.
That led to the inhouse development of brake slave cylinders by the bigger companies, eg Simtag, Racewerk, Sim Coaches aso.

From the pictures I can´t tell on which side of the learning curve Meca is with that.
The slave cylinder surely has the form of the Wilwood clutch cylinder, but is finished differently. Who knows what is inside?

Faulty software is a big letdown for me, I´m already in trouble with software that works like it should (according to the manufacturer at least)

So I´m happy not to be an early adopter and i will keep on monitoring the progress Meca makes.

MFG Carsten

 

[S4vG]

I have been using the hydraulic set since February and they have been great. I have not had any problems so far and no leaks or anything.

 

[S4vG]

I also should have mentioned the software does have a bug, but it can be overcome easily by making a blank file first if I'm correct. I shot an email over to them when I noticed it was not saving the profiles right. Since I have done the quick fix and saved my profile I have not even had to touch the software again. Upon boot all my settings are loading up without any interaction with the control panel software.

 

[adruagtz]

Today I received my Meca EVO 1 pedals. Once I put everything together, I decided to test the slave cylinder without elastomers by depressing the brake pedal. After that, the threaded rod did not return to the level it was before.

This is the first time I've used a hydraulic system, so I'm not very sure how it works. I would appreciate if you could give me instructions to solve the problem (if it exists).

I'm from Argentina, so returning the product is out of the question, I need to figure it out on my own.

I leave you some photos that help you understand my query.

Thank you so much.

 

[stigs2cousin]

Seems like you jammed the piston into the back of the cylinder where it is not meant to be.
(very not good)

If your lucky you can thread the nuts on the piston and use them to pull it out again (clamp the nut, NOT the thread in a vice or pull with pliers.
The brake pedal should be completely released when trying this.

Good Luck.

 

[adruagtz]

Thanks for answering. I'll let you know later how it went.

 

[GeekyDeaks]

I would try putting some repair style washers onto the rod and then tighten a nut above them very slowly, putting more washers on if you start to reach the end of the thread

 

[adruagtz]

I tried something similar yesterday, but the rod was starting to turn with the nut. I'm going to try again with more patience.

 

[stigs2cousin]

I would try putting some repair style washers onto the rod and then tighten a nut above them very slowly, putting more washers on if you start to reach the end of the thread

That´s a good idea if the rod is jammed.

You can use the washers and one nut as Scott suggest and above them tighten two more against each other and hold them with a spanner to keep the rod from spinning.

Should you meet heavy resistence it´s possible that fluid pressure is holding the piston down.

https://learnmech.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/hydraulic-master-cylinders.jpg

Make sure the brake pedal is completely released so fluid can flow back through the intake port. If that´s not possible you may have to release the pressure by unbolting a fitting. (very messy and you´d have to bleed the afterwards, try pulling it out first.)

 

[adruagtz]

Well, I didn't get anything by force so I had no choice but to loosen a fitting. It wasn't that bad, but I'm not sure it did a good job bleeding the circuit.

Tomorrow I'm going to take it to my mechanic so he can teach me how to do it.

 

[stigs2cousin]

Ok,

that´s a relief. Biggest problem solved.

Now for bleeding:

if you still have the spongy feel of air in the lines fix the slave cylinder above the master cylinder with the bleedport the highest part.
Often compressing the brake lever overnight with a ziptie helps to aggregate the air bubbles over night so the next bleeding is more successfull.

 

[adruagtz]

Everything solved, thank you all.

Now... what is the best combination of bushings to simulate a GT3?

 

[stigs2cousin]

Now... what is the best combination of bushings to simulate a GT3?

You really had to open this can of worms, did you ?

To add up all the possible answers/opinions:

it depends....

No really, the IRacing Police doesn´t make house calls.

I personally like a stiff/short pedal that I can slam at my brake zone and I trail brake by releasing the muscle tension in my upper thigh.
For that I need a very stable rig and a stiff seat.

If you brake more by rotating your ankle you probably could a softer pedal with longer travel.

That you have to figure out on your own

 

[S4vG]

So I just had the same issue with the rod on the slave cylinder. My story is a bit different though.... I was using the set as it was setup from factory for a while now. I decided I wanted to try some different configurations with the elastomers supplied. when I went to unscrew it, it was really tight and I had trouble getting it to unscrew but it did. The wing nut did release but it was forceful in a way. so I go back to put my stack together and I can't get it to go back together. I see that another poster here had that problem @adruagtz

My question is which fitting did you loosen to resolve the issue?

Edit:

Looks like I may have resolved the issue, I just chose to release the slave completely from the master cylinder at the point where the hose connects from the slave cylinder to the master.

 

[S4vG]

Wondering if anyone has been able to get the bleed screw to come loose? Mine is on there really firm but I do not see any degradation like rust etc. I have tried a few different things like wd-40 and leaving it mounted on the rig in a way that the bleed screw is facing up and applying haptic effects to the rig hoping some will get down in the threading. Still having a tough time getting the bleeder screw to even want to move