Hello guys. I just bought a Thrustmaster T300. Before, I was using Logitech Dfgt. Does anybody can give me the ideal settings for the T300 if you have. Also, a link or other guide source would be perfect. I tried a little, but my biggest issue is, the wheel is weighty, and the wheel is forcing too much to go back to the center position when I turn it. It is unnatural.
T300 best settings. There must be.
- Thread starter kralavci35
- Start date
If you have spring @100 in thrustmaster profile, turn it to 0
Thank you. I did it before . I also changeg damper to 0. Should I make damper 100. I know that damper means how heavy the wheel when the car is not moving. So it shouldn't be relevant I guess .
Well some people believe damper should be @0 and others @100
But it works not only when car is not moving. In AC i feel the slower you are than more damping you feel and the wheel becomes heavier (like in real car).
I was using the "0" before. The wheel was not that heavy and felt good to me. But with time i changed to 100 because i belive without it you just miss some important effects (i learned that while driving and here @RD) And i think with that "heavyness" its just more realistic.
I am not a pro or something but if you can´t find your optimal settings here are my settings i am happy with (without editing config files and that stuff):
Profiler
overal strenght 75
constant 100
periodic 100
spring 0
damper 100 (0 if you feel better)
auto center 12% (through game)
In game
FF strength 100
filer 0
minimum force 3
kerbs 60
road 55
slip 35
abs 0
enchanced understeer, half ffb - OFF
Than adjust ffb per car with +/- For example with this settings GT3 cars best @ about 82-88%
Btw: These are non CM settings, bacause i don`t use CM. For CM try Johnr777 settings
But it works not only when car is not moving. In AC i feel the slower you are than more damping you feel and the wheel becomes heavier (like in real car).
I was using the "0" before. The wheel was not that heavy and felt good to me. But with time i changed to 100 because i belive without it you just miss some important effects (i learned that while driving and here @RD) And i think with that "heavyness" its just more realistic.
I am not a pro or something but if you can´t find your optimal settings here are my settings i am happy with (without editing config files and that stuff):
Profiler
overal strenght 75
constant 100
periodic 100
spring 0
damper 100 (0 if you feel better)
auto center 12% (through game)
In game
FF strength 100
filer 0
minimum force 3
kerbs 60
road 55
slip 35
abs 0
enchanced understeer, half ffb - OFF
Than adjust ffb per car with +/- For example with this settings GT3 cars best @ about 82-88%
Btw: These are non CM settings, bacause i don`t use CM. For CM try Johnr777 settings
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Damper doesn't do anything when you're faster than the speed in the ini setting. 3 km/h afaik.
But you should check the "min damper level" as this is causing the damper to be always active. And it really should be 0.0!
In the link above, the min damper is set to 0.1..
Check that setting and put it to 0!
Apart from that there's not much to do. T300 belt drive has quite some resistance. But you shouldn't really feel it since mostly you either turn slowly against the Tyre grip (corner entry turn in) or you have to correct some oversteer, then the ffb will push the wheel to the correct position and you don't really have to work against anything apart from "holding against the ffb" but not "accelerate the wheel faster than it wants to move on its own".
The last part is a bit problem with the dfgt. The ffb isn't strong enough to spin the wheel fast enough into opposite lock during oversteer and you have to help the ffb and turn the wheel faster than it can on its own.
If the ffb is too weak to spin the wheel quickly enough, put the ffb higher!
I'd recommend at least 80% in the driver and 80% in the gain.
But you should check the "min damper level" as this is causing the damper to be always active. And it really should be 0.0!
In the link above, the min damper is set to 0.1..
Check that setting and put it to 0!
Apart from that there's not much to do. T300 belt drive has quite some resistance. But you shouldn't really feel it since mostly you either turn slowly against the Tyre grip (corner entry turn in) or you have to correct some oversteer, then the ffb will push the wheel to the correct position and you don't really have to work against anything apart from "holding against the ffb" but not "accelerate the wheel faster than it wants to move on its own".
The last part is a bit problem with the dfgt. The ffb isn't strong enough to spin the wheel fast enough into opposite lock during oversteer and you have to help the ffb and turn the wheel faster than it can on its own.
If the ffb is too weak to spin the wheel quickly enough, put the ffb higher!
I'd recommend at least 80% in the driver and 80% in the gain.
Thank you for your answer, and thanks to everybody who is trying to help. For me, your fake effects are too strong. I set in-game:
FFB gain 90
filter 0
minimum force % 5 - 6
kerbs 20
road 25
slip 25
abs 10
I use the FFB clip application. No post-processing, no experimental, no gyro. I only use the new gyro effect in the latest custom shader patch version.
Thrustmaster Profiler :
Overall strength 70 - 75
Constant 100
Periodic 100
Spring 0
Damper 0
Now the game feels perfect. When I first use T300, I miscalculate how strong it is when you compare it with Dfgt. I thought there was a mistake. But now I get used to T300, and it feels awesome.
I also play Rfactor 2, and I am not very experienced with cars and sim. In Rfactor 2 wheel forces you to go back to the center too when you turn it while going fast. So it must be my evaluation mistake at first.
Thank you all and enjoy sim.
Hi again,
i am not a ffb-guru for sure, but if you mean those effects above - its a myth that these are "fake" @Assetto
I mean its not true, its just a amount how storng you`l feel those real effects through your wheel.
But earlier i was driving pretty similar settings and it was also ok for me. Maybe in the future you try damper again
because you are missing something (just my opinion)Hi again,
i am not a ffb-guru for sure, but if you mean those effects above - its a myth that these are "fake" @Assetto
I mean its not true, its just a amount how storng you`l feel those real effects through your wheel.
But earlier i was driving pretty similar settings and it was also ok for me. Maybe in the future you try damper again
Hello,
Me too. I am like you. I just like reading and researching a lot. When I first buy Assetto Corsa I spent 3 days to setup settings for graphics and FFB
). My knowledge is mostly coming from this article and some others supporting this.assettocorsa/comments/5l64g8/this_is_how_the_ffb_worksand_how_to_set_it_up
Maybe you are right it can be too extreme to call them fake. They are like multipliers maybe.
Thank you so much for your advice. Today I will give it a try and compare damper 0 with damper 100.
And one advice for you, I don't know your reason but if you play AC and never used CM please use it
It is the thing that makes AC great for me. First, it seems weird. But then you get addicted, impossible to play AC without it.
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Hello,
Me too. I am like you. I just like reading and researching a lot. When I first buy Assetto Corsa I spent 3 days to setup settings for graphics and FFB
assettocorsa/comments/5l64g8/this_is_how_the_ffb_worksand_how_to_set_it_up
Maybe you are right it can be too extreme to call them fake. They are like multipliers maybe.
Thank you so much for your advice. Today I will give it a try and compare damper 0 with damper 100.
And one advice for you, I don't know your reason but if you play AC and never used CM please use it
Yeah i often thought about CM, but i have my 2 reasons why i dont use it:
1. i like to mod my games like manualy. I just want to have 100% contorol and do myself. Therefor i can study ini. files for hours
I use CSP and lot of other mods and am able to control them "manually". But of course you are right CM offers allot more possibilitys but i am fine.
2. The second and bigger reason is - I only play many many custom championships. Allot of them adjusted, edited and of course driven many many hours. CM so far as i know has not optimized custom championship options or problems while setupping them. I also read about championships which was destroyed by CM ... and so on.
Enjoy your T300 i enjoy my Alcantara Edition
too. I mean there are a lot of better or more proffesional wheels (like DD wheels fe.) but i think its among best wheels you can get for the moneyYeah i often thought about CM, but i have my 2 reasons why i dont use it:
1. i like to mod my games like manualy. I just want to have 100% contorol and do myself. Therefor i can study ini. files for hours
I use CSP and lot of other mods and am able to control them "manually". But of course you are right CM offers allot more possibilitys but i am fine.
2. The second and bigger reason is - I only play many many custom championships. Allot of them adjusted, edited and of course driven many many hours. CM so far as i know has not optimized custom championship options or problems while setupping them. I also read about championships which was destroyed by CM ... and so on.
Enjoy your T300 i enjoy my Alcantara Edition
I see
. You enjoy too my friend. Cheers to DD wheels one day Errr guys...
Kerbs and slip are as fake as much as fake goes...
Kerbs is a rumble effect when the a wheel hits a "kerb-surface according to the surface.ini
The 3D Modelled Kerbs will give you the correctly calculated ffb from the kerb steps.
So in theory you don't need the Kerbs slider at all. But it's weird for us when there are flat Kerbs and we don't get feedback when running over them.
So I have the Kerbs slider at 2% to get some subtle feedback when hitting the flat Kerbs.
Slide is debatable but it's just a rumble effect without any physical calculation.
When the physics engine from the game registers a wheel to be sliding or spinning, the game will send some sinus rumble to the wheel.
ABS however is kinda realistic. Although you would normally feel it in the brake pedal of course.
I keep slide and abs effects at the same level so I get the same rumble in the wheel no matter if I drive a car with or without abs.
The road slider is the only actually physically calculated effect.
But it's not the track you feel there.
In the surface ini you have different types of tarmac, run off, grass, gravel etc.
For each of them there's a different rumble frequency.
So you get a different "noise" depending on the surface. But it's not coming from anything 3d modelled!
I have it at 5% to feel when the tarmac changes.
At Spa for example you have some darker and some brighter tarmac. The noise changes then.
Don't get me wrong, I use all these effects. They are good feedback. But they are very "fake"
Kerbs and slip are as fake as much as fake goes...
Kerbs is a rumble effect when the a wheel hits a "kerb-surface according to the surface.ini
The 3D Modelled Kerbs will give you the correctly calculated ffb from the kerb steps.
So in theory you don't need the Kerbs slider at all. But it's weird for us when there are flat Kerbs and we don't get feedback when running over them.
So I have the Kerbs slider at 2% to get some subtle feedback when hitting the flat Kerbs.
Slide is debatable but it's just a rumble effect without any physical calculation.
When the physics engine from the game registers a wheel to be sliding or spinning, the game will send some sinus rumble to the wheel.
ABS however is kinda realistic. Although you would normally feel it in the brake pedal of course.
I keep slide and abs effects at the same level so I get the same rumble in the wheel no matter if I drive a car with or without abs.
The road slider is the only actually physically calculated effect.
But it's not the track you feel there.
In the surface ini you have different types of tarmac, run off, grass, gravel etc.
For each of them there's a different rumble frequency.
So you get a different "noise" depending on the surface. But it's not coming from anything 3d modelled!
I have it at 5% to feel when the tarmac changes.
At Spa for example you have some darker and some brighter tarmac. The noise changes then.
Don't get me wrong, I use all these effects. They are good feedback. But they are very "fake"
My fault , about kerbs you are 100% right, this is "fake" only. But anyway i like it when it`s rumble hard so i keep the slider high.
I have read some other stuff about the slip slider, but like said before i am no expert i just heard many opinions to build my opinion. But it makes all sense what you said.
On the other end - it does no matter, main thing everyone is happy with his wheel settings.
FFB is a very subjective thing
, about kerbs you are 100% right, this is "fake" only. But anyway i like it when it`s rumble hard so i keep the slider high.I have read some other stuff about the slip slider, but like said before i am no expert i just heard many opinions to build my opinion. But it makes all sense what you said.
On the other end - it does no matter, main thing everyone is happy with his wheel settings.
FFB is a very subjective thing
If you turn them to 0% you get the most objectively accurate FFB that Kunos could calculate at the time, the extra options either amplify wheel effects (slip and understeer effect) or they add in non-steering feedback channels that you'd get via your pedals/seat anyway in a car.
With everything at 0% there's nothing done intentionally to spice up the ffb, make it easier to drive, whatever (in other words, AC haters are full of hot air). But of course as a indie game company they don't have a huge team of staff researching realistic force levels and verifying that the rack forces matches real telemetry, like an F1 simulator might.
With everything at 0% there's nothing done intentionally to spice up the ffb, make it easier to drive, whatever (in other words, AC haters are full of hot air). But of course as a indie game company they don't have a huge team of staff researching realistic force levels and verifying that the rack forces matches real telemetry, like an F1 simulator might.
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Well "fake" is such a negative word.. These effects are like a rev light for optimum shifting point instead of simply listening to the engine or looking at a rev needle.My fault
I have read some other stuff about the slip slider, but like said before i am no expert i just heard many opinions to build my opinion. But it makes all sense what you said.
On the other end - it does no matter, main thing everyone is happy with his wheel settings.
FFB is a very subjective thing
Since we don't have g forces and a moving seat (at least most of us lol), slip, abs and road effects are very useful!
And kerb is also useful to know when you're on the edge of the track.
In theory there's the perfect balance between "getting the information" vs "too much to feel everything correctly and in full detail".
When you're at the grip limit and suddenly everything is shaking and rattling because you're starting to slide because you're going over the kerbs:
Kerbs and slip effects at 100% will probably make you stop feeling the grip limit.
On the other hand without the kerb and slip effects, you wouldn't know that you're touching the kerbs now and that the tyres are starting to slide...
In a real car you would either see where you're car is going, feel the start of the kerbs in your seat or vibrations from the chassis and you definitely would feel the reduced grip due to g forces.
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Obviously you Rasmus and Stereo you know what you are talking about so guys another question- damping in thrustmaster panel 100% or 0 ? What do you prefer?
so guys another question- damping in thrustmaster panel 100% or 0 ? What do you prefer?It's only used when slowly rolling.Obviously you Rasmus and Stereo you know what you are talking about
I like the "rubber" effect of the wheel becoming heavier when being very slow.
With a Logitech wheel you get really loud vibration noises from it but with belt driven wheels like thrustmaster or fanatec I really like the damper effect
Beware though that the minimum damper level (in content manager experimental settings or in the ini files) should be 0.0!
I really dislike to have the damper effect always active.
Thrustmaster wheels don't spin swiftly enough to need this and fanatec or direct drive wheels have their own software solution to keep the wheel calmer.
with my thrustmaster I have exact the same feeling - wheel becoming heavier if I becoming slow. I disliked it earlier but later changed to 100. for me it feels good, pretty realistic
