The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[HugoB]

Is that what you mean?
Thank you.

That one is correct.

 

[Flag Ghost]

Yes as long as that hex tool is the proper fit AND goes all the way through you have the proper fittings. The "wrong" ones would allow that tool to only pass in part way and the threads are thicker.

 

[jimbraj]

Try to give the rear actuator more room by extending your rig to the back.
This will allow you to find the best position for the rotation axis (pitch).
For my design, I looked at a GT3 race car.
The centre point between the rear and front wheel is there you want to place your rotation axis. By looking at the seat position, in this regard, the rotation axis is in the first third of the seat.

In our sim the rotation axis is the center point between two actuators.

Another aspect is, your elbows will need some space. Having your seat too near to the rear actuators can hurt.

agreed esp if the seat is gonna be lower. my rig is 52 inches and i wish it was atleast 60 to push the actuators back

 

[Mascot]

agreed esp if the seat is gonna be lower. my rig is 52 inches and i wish it was atleast 60 to push the actuators back

You can set them back a further 100mm with an 8020 rig by tapping into the ends of the side rails. The actuators overhang the back of the chassis.

 

[metalnwood]

Do you use a passive system as well? I've seen anton's and Mascot's setup. I think I would have to go Mascot's route of fixing the belts to hooks on the separate feet, but I'm curious if there are any other implementations out there. Cheers.

Without clogging up the thread with more of my pictures, here is a link to another thread that has another way. At the end of the day its the same thing but I wanted to make something that would not pull down on my shoulders as others have mentioned

https://www.racedepartment.com/thre...oner-with-simtools.163727/page-6#post-2929054

 

[Pyronious]

The centre point between the rear and front wheel is there you want to place your rotation axis. By looking at the seat position, in this regard, the rotation axis is in the first third of the seat. In our sim the rotation axis is the center point between two actuators.

Another aspect is, your elbows will need some space. Having your seat too near to the rear actuators can hurt.

Thanks for the insightful feedback. I believe there is room to move my pedals and wheel mount forward on the rig to allow the seat to come forward to the recommended position. The seat also has 8 inches (20cm) of slider adjustability. Definitely don’t want to bang up the elbows!

I did debate running four plates on the upright extrusions for the wheel. @C64 has convinced me to go ahead and put those extra two on. My idea with the plates was to help reduce the overall twist.

I got an email today that my “DB25 Shield” PCB prototypes have shipped. I should have them this week. Hopefully I can get them populated with parts and working this weekend as well as build my other 3 actuators.

 

[minderacer]

I can't understand German, but it looks like we should plan on designing our rigs to adapt traction loss..
The official announcement of QMS motion system here:

 

[Flag Ghost]

Are these guys the folks who developed the SFX or are they selling a system which includes the SFX?

 

[minderacer]

I believe that is Saxxon, if you look at the channel they have other videos on the sfx-100.. I've only started down this rabbit hole a about 6 weeks ago. So I'm just using deductive reasoning, sense I can't understand a word he's saying..

 

[Ringorian]

I believe that is Saxxon, if you look at the channel they have other videos on the sfx-100.. I've only started down this rabbit hole a about 6 weeks ago. So I'm just using deductive reasoning, sense I can't understand a word he's saying..

This is vsp , not saxxon and He is a Beta Tester as me, Martin Ascher and Rowan.
And no, He is doing it Not for commercial, since the license doesnt allow it. He build a Lot in the Last 3 years with different Motors etc .. dc,hyperaxis etc

 

[Furnace Inferno]

Got all the parts from NTL Bearings yesterday, all seem to be fine and I’ve cleaned the rods with rubbing alcohol. Motors are due to be delivered on Monday but no one will be in so I’ll have to rearrange that unfortunately .

I’ve just got all the big ticket parts left to print with the fixed and linear bearing mounts so that’s 80-90hrs of printing to go, the end is in site!

I also used 3D builder to make some better mounts for my Ascher shifters onto the Accuforce but somehow the M4 threads I took from thingiverse are too small and actually only M3 .

One question the feet are completely loose on the ends of the rods but on the sliders it’s a nice snug fit, is that correct?

 

[minderacer]

This is vsp , not saxxon and He is a Beta Tester as me, Martin Ascher and Rowan.
And no, He is doing it Not for commercial, since the license doesnt allow it. He build a Lot in the Last 3 years with different Motors etc .. dc,hyperaxis etc

Thank you for clearing that up. So is QSM something you all are developing or is that his own personal project?

 

[Flag Ghost]

One question the feet are completely loose on the ends of the rods but on the sliders it’s a nice snug fit, is that correct?

Yep same here.. same question.

 

[minderacer]

Yep same here.. same question.

Mine are really loose too, but I did see a thingy verse version that might be tighter.. I'll print them as soon as my last motor mount is done.
Edit:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3402891

 

[Ringorian]

Thank you for clearing that up. So is QSM something you all are developing or is that his own personal project?

He calls His project like that ..
Not more Not less

 

[Flag Ghost]

Mine are really loose too, but I did see a thingy verse version that might be tighter.. I'll print them as soon as my last motor mount is done.
Edit:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3402891

Oops sorry I was actually talking about the loose fit of the shaft inside a well fitting slider. Any issues w/ this?

 

[minderacer]

Oops sorry I was actually talking about the loose fit of the shaft inside a well fitting slider. Any issues w/ this?

You supposed to add masking tape to the end of the rod, then slide it into the slider.. which creates a decent hold.. then in theory the weight of your rig in your body will keep the shaft in place.

 

[Mascot]

You supposed to add masking tape to the end of the rod, then slide it into the slider.. which creates a decent hold.. then in theory the weight of your rig in your body will keep the shaft in place.

I used one wrap of PVC insulation tape which seemed to give a perfect interference fit.
It seemed to be a more appropriate tape than masking tape for some reason. I guess you could use just about anything though. I wonder if anyone's used a smear of silicone, for example?

 

[Moxley6969]

I used one wrap of PVC insulation tape which seemed to give a perfect interference fit.
It seemed to be a more appropriate tape than masking tape for some reason. I guess you could use just about anything though. I wonder if anyone's used a smear of silicone, for example?

Silicone would not provide a proper interference fit. It would cure up All cock eyed I bet. So not advised. When i re made my slider, i made it a press fit As i did my Replacement Foot.

 

[saxxon66]

The hemi feet fit is loose by design.
This will allow minor movement of the shaft inside w/o moving the feet.