The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html
 
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Is that per piece or for 4 pieces total? You could get these: https://sim-lab.eu/product/connector-bracket-40-mm-slot-8-bulk/?attribute_quantity=10
They fit for sure, I use them. I think 3D printing brackets like that is really cool! But I'd always choose metal or aluminum brackets here
Per piece. I have aluminum brackets however printed mounts would nicely isolate actuators from the platform. It might slightly affect the feeling of entire rig.
If you could draw up a design for 25 series, illI give them a go..
Will do.
 
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I'm thinking of printing PLA mounts for my SFX actuators and 1530 frame.
Do you think something like this will withstand brutal forces?
SFXMount1530.jpg

I would not recommend it. The 3D printed parts of the actuators are only exposed to compression forces. That's not the case with these brackets. I would not be comfortable mouting the brackets with anything else then steel or aluminium.
 
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Been experimenting with the harness a little more and I really like it now. I imagine there are a few new SFX owners who haven't used a harness before so here's some quick thoughts.

I hated the extra faffing at first but the harness really does help with authenticity and immersion, with the sense of being strapped into a real race car, and adds believable tactility to surge and cornering effects that really complement the motion of the rig. The feeling of being restrained by the harness as tension increases under heavy braking (or even driving down a steep hill) is awesome. I've found that the tighter I can stand it, the better. And right now I really don't think I need springs - the 'stretch' in the whole assembly (including the give in deformable human flesh) seems to do a really good job of applying progressive load. The additional cornering forces on the shoulders were an unexpected bonus too.

@anton_Chez I've had zero slippage in the chest buckles, or in any of the others. For the price I can heartily recommend this harness mate. £30 is an absolute bargain. I'm glad of the 3" webbing too - I imagine narrower stuff would dig into the shoulders like @Steve D warned against.
 
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What sims does this actually support?

I can’t seen Raceroom listed but I’ve seen someone say they have been racing it on one of the German forums?

How about AMS, F1 2016 and shock horror Forza 7?

Is it just a simple case of setting up the telemetry output to the right port or do they need specific profiles developed to work?
 
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I have been less than impressed by the heartache caused by Kinetik’s customer service so I have been testing an alternative 100x100 profile from ITEM ( part no. 0.0.624.56 ) for the last 6 weeks and it has not produced any problems. I have discussed publicizing this alternative to Kinetik with “saxxon66” ( Michael ) and he is ok with it, he just wants to make sure that it does not confuse builders.

Nice find, and good to have an alternative solution available. I also found a nearly-compatible profile from Misumi USA. Plenty of internal clearance for the SFX-100 actuator assembly. The bolt holes are in the correct locations. The modifications to make SFX-100 work with this profile would be similar (adjusted slider profile, linear bearing mount and fixed bearing mount bolt hole diameter adjustments, different screw sizes). It would be straightforward to design compatible parts in Fusion360. And price for 4 shipped inside USA via ground is $210. That's about $40 less than I paid for the Kinetik extrusions.

Nice to know there are alternatives if the Kinetik profiles become unavailable for some reason.
 
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I finished the design for my frame and got all the parts ordered. I was able to save a lot of money by getting most of the hardware from TNutz.com, with some specialty items and black anodized 1530 coming from 80/20. I'm really excited as this is the last piece of the SFX-100 puzzle for me. In a couple of weeks I should be up and running!
H2AYVKh.png

And yeah, I know a lot of people recommend the seat mounted lower. This design does allow me to try mounting the seat assembly to the bottom of the frame and I will certainly try that. But because I am more of a Rally sim fan, the higher seat position feels more natural to me for that style of car. If I were an open wheel guy I'd definitely go for the low seat position.
 
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Looks really good, I have added one comment in the picture below. Plenty of scope for playing with seat height - it's worth playing around as I found the feeling of sitting "in" or "on" the car was quite pronounced. I thought rally drivers pretty much sat on the floor of the car :)

upload_2019-3-19_10-59-56.png
 
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I think the rally driving position might be slightly more upright, obviously, than an open wheel style car but the seat would still be fairly low to the floor. Maybe a better way of doing it is mounting the seat as low as you can and then playing with the height that you fit the actuators to the frame. It's the same thing, but maybe more versatile? It's probably hard to mess with either way, but as long as the seat is not SUPER high, then I think it's fine.
 
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Try to give the rear actuator more room by extending your rig to the back.
This will allow you to find the best position for the rotation axis (pitch).
For my design, I looked at a GT3 race car.
The centre point between the rear and front wheel is there you want to place your rotation axis. By looking at the seat position, in this regard, the rotation axis is in the first third of the seat.

In our sim the rotation axis is the center point between two actuators.

Another aspect is, your elbows will need some space. Having your seat too near to the rear actuators can hurt.
 
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Good to hear @Mascot that the passive seat belt tensioner is working great for you. I have been wearing a seat belt for more 4 years. It's like gloves, i never race without any more.

Do you use a passive system as well? I've seen anton's and Mascot's setup. I think I would have to go Mascot's route of fixing the belts to hooks on the separate feet, but I'm curious if there are any other implementations out there. Cheers.
 
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Do you use a passive system as well? I've seen anton's and Mascot's setup. I think I would have to go Mascot's route of fixing the belts to hooks on the separate feet, but I'm curious if there are any other implementations out there. Cheers.
I'm devising a cunning plan to route both lap straps and shoulder straps to use the deflection at the midpoint between the rear actuators... to try and eliminate unwanted roll / sway tensioning. It would be great if our gracious master ( saxxon66 ) could squeeze some more performance out of the Arduino and allow it to control 5 actuators, then we could do some really good belt tensioning that did not get mixed up with other rig movements.
 
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I'm devising a cunning plan to route both lap straps and shoulder straps to use the deflection at the midpoint between the rear actuators... to try and eliminate unwanted roll / sway tensioning. It would be great if our gracious master ( saxxon66 ) could squeeze some more performance out of the Arduino and allow it to control 5 actuators, then we could do some really good belt tensioning that did not get mixed up with other rig movements.
I'd be inclined (INCLINED! Get it??!) to use a fifth actuator for dedicated surge rather than for a seatbelt tensioner. The seatbelt tensioning would be a nice little by-product of the surge effects.

Surge is the one thing that the NLMv3 does much better than the SFX100 because of the independent seat movement.
 
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Do you use a passive system as well? I've seen anton's and Mascot's setup. I think I would have to go Mascot's route of fixing the belts to hooks on the separate feet, but I'm curious if there are any other implementations out there. Cheers.

I have giving up my efforts for a passive seat belt tensioner. I do not like the feeling of my shoulders being pulled down under braking. Also my rig is mobile and adding a passive seat belt tensioner to it is too much hassle right now.

I might give it another go to make an active one when the second controller support is released, but having a compact mobile rig with a GS-5 ( that has servos sticking out at the back) complicates things quite a lot.

If i do decide to make a (active) seat belt tensioner, it will tension the lower 2 front belts only and not the rear ones. That would feel more natural to me.
 
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That makes me worry. I'm still waiting for my package. It was shipped on March 6th. I will report back when I get it.
The package was delivered yesterday. Everything was well packed and secured.
I'm not sure if I have the right inserts. Can someone confirm pls?
IMG_5753.JPEG
 
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If they are all like the one on it's end with the hex cutout going all the way through they are correct. Very hard to tell from the picture but I think you have the right ones. Check for the hex pattern on both ends.
 
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