The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[jimbraj]

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3506025

Servo Cable Holder For 100x100 actuator extrusion

 

[HugoB]

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3506025

Servo Cable Holder For 100x100 actuator extrusion

Nice! Thanks

 

[Furnace Inferno]

My rod is tight in the slider probably don’t even need masking tape, should I use any on the feet to snug it up? Sounds like it would be fine as is.

 

[minderacer]

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3506025

Servo Cable Holder For 100x100 actuator extrusion

Very nice, thank you..

 

[Systemguy]

After installing one set of helicoils manually I 'rationalized' the purchase of an impact driver as an essential tool missing in my workshop. WOW, what a difference. It took me about 20 minutes to finish all the helicoils and I have another cool power tool. Win win other than the $50 addition to my build cost.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ3QY9A

 

[Systemguy]

Do you think I can use a dremel cutoff tool to groove the motor shaft instead of a file? I'm guessing it won't be as rough (i.e grippy) as a filed version but I'm looking for an excuse to use more power tools.

 

[Flag Ghost]

After installing one set of helicoils manually I 'rationalized' the purchase of an impact driver as an essential tool missing in my workshop. WOW, what a difference. It took me about 20 minutes to finish all the helicoils and I have another cool power tool. Win win other than the $50 addition to my build cost.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ3QY9A

Haha.. I did the same thing. No regrets.. great tool.

 

[ScottSonder]

Do you think I can use a dremel cutoff tool to groove the motor shaft instead of a file? I'm guessing it won't be as rough (i.e grippy) as a filed version but I'm looking for an excuse to use more power tools.

I think Rowan kind of cleared this up, at least I'm going to trust his mechanical knowledge and his document he found showing how to position the coupler in relation to the shaft. There are people who've run the SFX 100 for half a year with nothing but a little sanding, not even sure if they did that.

 

[Furnace Inferno]

Loaded up my first bearing with grease and started putting the bits together, disaster they screws don’t fit and in my attempts to somehow get them too it split.

I’m going to reprint with the black pla which seems to hold its shape much better than the pla+ which spread a bit more. The holes on the bump stops weren’t quite right either, slightly worried my fixed bearing holes are just different but I’ll find out with the standard black pla.

 

[acekrusty23]

Hi, how do I configure this setting in controller.
P109 = 1 - smoothing, 1=fixed smoothing, 2=s-Shaped smoothing.
I have configured the rest of the parameters with just the controller turned on without the motors connected, or do I have to connect the motors to the controllers and then set parameters?
Hopes this makes sense.
Thanks.

 

[Furnace Inferno]

Right I’ve discovered the issue, the ball screw is ****ed and I’ve already attached and thread locked the fixed bearing .

Is it possible to get a replacement ball screw or do they come pre-assembled because of the ball bearings?

Otherwise I need replacements of both as it’s not like I can just try and drill new holes as the whole ball screw isn’t symmetrical along with the holes not being aligned and to top it off the bloody grease nipple is in the wrong place so when it’s straight it can’t slide in!

 

[anton_Chez]

Yeah they come together as you said because of the ball bearings. Where is yours not right? Just the holes not lining up? They look pretty hammered, actually.

Gee mine came nowhere near that? Is this from NTL? We've had some hit and miss with them but mostly hits, mine were perfect.

 

[o Tiger Feet o]

Do the 4 corner ones line up.... Im just doing mine, Im thinking you could get away with just 4 in?

 

[Furnace Inferno]

The right side of the nut you can see in the 2nd photo isn’t as wide as the left and the middle bolt hole is skewed off to the side. I can literally only get one bolt in and the rest are wrong but if I put that one in then the grease nipple is too far over to fit in the extrusion anyway.

It was NTL yes but the rest are fine having checked this morning.

 

[Furnace Inferno]

Do the 4 corner ones line up.... Im just doing mine, Im thinking you could get away with just 4 in?

Nope only one does and I tried forcing it in by screwing them in at an angle from about an inch away but the slider just split under the force. I’ve emailed to see what they can do but I’m not too hopeful so looking at another £50 to get replacement parts from the German site or £30 if I can get the fixed bearing off.

 

[ScottSonder]

I misread what you thread locked, but look at those holes man! I'm checking my NTL gear when I get home, that's definitely off.

 

[C64]

Nope only one does and I tried forcing it in by screwing them in at an angle from about an inch away but the slider just split under the force. I’ve emailed to see what they can do but I’m not too hopeful so looking at another £50 to get replacement parts from the German site or £30 if I can get the fixed bearing off.

One other option is to print a slider that has the holes in the correct place for that ballnut, would require some modelling skills.

An alternative to that is print a slider with the top section solid so you could drill and tap threads... or just drill and allow the bolts to cut their own threads ( have to be careful )

... or drill and put some threaded inserts in that are designed for 3D prints.

You could print a short section of solid slider to practice with.

Note : your slicer should allow you to print a solid outline ( simplify3d does )

 

[Moxley6969]

@ Furnace Inferno, IMO that ball screw has not been machined properly. I would personally demand to see the Spec sheet showing this "offset bolt" If the seller gives you any Guff about it.
They owe you a new unit as per how i see it.

 

[minderacer]

Yeah, contact the seller they should, mail you a correct one

 

[leeroy605]

My NTL order was delivered the other night, just checked my ball screws...2 out of 4 have the same problem as above. Very frustrating!

Going to send Amy an email now...