The SimFeedback-AC DIY Motion Simulator thread

[sjb266]

Hey guys. Thought I’d create a thread for those taking the plunge into this brilliant DIY project..
I will be starting mine soon and I know there are others thinking about it.. so feel free to share your knowledge and experiences so we can all enjoy this platform to its full potential. A huge thanks to the developers who have really knocked this one out of the park!

Website: https://opensfx.com/2019/02/20/welcome-to-our-new-site/

Github: https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/wiki

For all the internals for the actuator contact Amy - skye@ntl-bearing.com
She can supply everything you need. Just remind her you want the ends of the shafts chamfered and make sure she sends the right sized ball screw - we have had a couple of issues reported. She is very helpful though and the cost is pretty good.


Huge thanks to @RowanH for writing a comprehensive user guide which can be accessed here - https://www.rowanhick.com/sfx-100-build-and-running-guide

In addition, @anton_Chez has contributed a list of post numbers for some of the important settings etc..
Post #320 SFX-100 thread
Post #327 SFX-100 thread for Discord correlation
Post #339 SFX-100 thread
Post #418 SFX-100 thread
Post #424 SFX-100 thread
Post #439 SFX-100 thread
Post #449 SFX-100 thread
Post #517 SFX-100 thread
Post #554 SFX-100 thread
Post #580 SFX-100 thread
Post #826 SFX-100 thread
Post #837 SFX-100 thread
Post #864,866,867,868,870,887,889,897 SFX-100 thread
Post #911,914 SFX-100 thread
Post #988,992,998 SFX-100 thread
Post #1147 SFX-100 thread
Post #1492 SFX-100 thread
Post #1511,1517 SFX-100 thread

I will try to keep this page updated with links to source the parts in other parts of the world. Just post whatever links you have and i'll add them here.

Please note: Not all the parts listed below are essential for the project. For the essential parts refer to the original shopping list.

Australia:

• O-Ring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kit-419Pcs-O-Ring-O-Ring-Black-Rubber-32-Sizes-With-Case-3-50mm-W8D7/223152697816?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Sub breakout board - DB25 25pin Female Adapter RS-232 Serial Terminal Module Breakout Board Connector
• Emergency Stop - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Reliable-Emergency-Stop-Push-Button-Box-600V-Switch-for-Elevator/192115082001?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Arduino Wiring - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-pcs-Dupont-Cable-20cm-Jumper-Wire-for-Arduino-RPi-breadboard-AU-Stock/202436863098?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=502467628096&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• Breadboard - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Solderless-Breadboard-400-Contacts-Tie-points-Universal-Available-New-lemon/123145741183?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
• D-Dub Cable - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-D...h=item3f6ace6403:g:038AAOSw9mpaSsU2:rk:1:pf:0
• Screw Shield for Arduino Leonardo - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Scr...h=item25a9d471a4:g:5BgAAOSwraJbc9rC:rk:1:pf:0
• Arduino Leonardo Replica - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Eduino-Leonardo-Module-with-USB-Cable-for-Arduino-ATMEGA32U4-Blue-Black/132719951279?epid=916281063&hash=item1ee6b9bdaf:g:2QUAAOSw5iNbWv6b:rk:123f:

Thanks to @AussieSim for the following links:

10A power lead(s) * 4
https://www.jaycar.com.au/2m-black-mains-extension-lead/p/PS4152

Top quality wire stripper
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/boxo-cutws205-multifunction-wire-stripper

RCD/safety switch power block
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-4-outlet-heavy-duty-portable-safety-switch_p4420028

WD-40 lithium grease for the ball screws
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-specialist-300g-high-performance-white-lithium-grease_p6100408

Vibration pads
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-on-site-100-x-12-5mm-rubber-anti-vibration-mat-4-pack_p3961547

WD-40 Dry PTFE spray for the slider (free shipping)
https://au.rs-online.com/mobile/p/lubricants/7577134/

Arduino Leonardo (free shipping + frequent 10-15% off discount)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/a000057/arduino-corporation

DB25 cables * 4 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ak401-2/assmann-wsw-components-inc

PETG * 3 (free shipping)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/petg17bk1/mg-chemicals

WAGO-like connectors to avoid a breadboard (perhaps use genuine ones if you are doing 240V AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32906719488.html

D-Sub breakout boards * 4
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32297675967.html

3D printer Creality Ender-3 Pro
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html

Wires from Arduino to D-Sub breakout (remove black plastic from the WAGO end)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887680826.html

Crimp connectors for AC wire leads
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813550981.html

 

[Wmacky]

I hope you get this sorted.

I decide to test run mine for the first time tonight. I'm on pins and needles right now. I did just turn on the power to the 110V/ 220V convertor and all the drives woke up without a explosion.

I just came to the computer to find which cable goes to each motor. I'm off now to plus in cables! and fire up Simfeedback. I did test the motors months ago , but never tested the actuators after the build. Could be interesting? wish me good luck

 

[Wmacky]

Well that was a let down after a year long built. Same as the other guy. Hit start, it connects OK. Nothing happens. Gutted

 

[Wmacky]

Bypassed the safety stop, and it must be bad as it's now doing something, but 1 actuator is not moving?

 

[anton_Chez]

I'm having serious issues with my setup as well but I am yet to pinpoint if it's motion related. The symptoms suggest so. After a year of nearly no issues, I've got 2 or 3 at once here.

 

[Wmacky]

OK, guys, really need a suggestion. Starting to get really worried and pissed that I have a bad drive.

1. Swapped 2 D-buss cables at the Adruino, same acuator failure so the the board is OK.
2. Swapped the other ends at the drives Same failure so the D-buss cables are OK
3 swapped motor lead cables at the motors and now it's a different actuator that won't move. the other one now works ok.

The drive will move a motor manually but not using the computer. so motor cables are ok?

What gives? Bad drive? After the unit raises all drives read 0 except the non working one read 1. All read 0 after stopping.

Is there a bad drive setting that could cause this?

 

[Jbixby]

OK, guys, really need a suggestion. Starting to get really worried and pissed that I have a bad drive.

1. Swapped 2 D-buss cables at the Adruino, same acuator failure so the the board is OK.
2. Swapped the other ends at the drives Same failure so the D-buss cables are OK
3 swapped motor lead cables at the motors and now it's a different actuator that won't move. the other one now works ok.

The drive will move a motor manually but not using the computer. so motor cables are ok?

What gives? Bad drive? After the unit raises all drives read 0 except the non working one read 1. All read 0 after stopping.

Is there a bad drive setting that could cause this?

Still sounds like a wiring problem to the arduino to me.

 

[anton_Chez]

If you get an actuator to fail with one driver, and then the same actuator works connected to another driver, then it's almost certain to be something to do with the driver, or the connection if you've used the same cables connected to the driver and just swapped the motor and actuator over.

 

[Wmacky]

I agree, though the drive will move the actuator manually, so the cables must be OK.

This could really suck. It would take weeks to get another drive, Can you even buy them without a motor? I sure warranty it out as I bought them last January! Sucks

 

[Wmacky]

Hmmmm. While the cockpit is raised, I can feel a slight vibration in the non moving actuator. Thats why the drive is reading 1? Is that a amp reading? It's not jammed as the problem moves with a cable swap. Drive related

 

[Tronicgr_6DOF]

OK, guys, really need a suggestion. Starting to get really worried and pissed that I have a bad drive.

1. Swapped 2 D-buss cables at the Adruino, same acuator failure so the the board is OK.
2. Swapped the other ends at the drives Same failure so the D-buss cables are OK
3 swapped motor lead cables at the motors and now it's a different actuator that won't move. the other one now works ok.

The drive will move a motor manually but not using the computer. so motor cables are ok?

What gives? Bad drive? After the unit raises all drives read 0 except the non working one read 1. All read 0 after stopping.

Is there a bad drive setting that could cause this?

If only there was a manual move test button on the leonardo, you could immediately rule out a bad wiring... innit?

 

[Wmacky]

If only there was a manual move test button on the leonardo, you could immediately rule out a bad wiring... innit?

I'm using the SFX PC board shield. There is no other wiring than that.

The issue seems to be after the D-buss shield connections, as the drive will not work no matter which D-buss connection I plug into, but the other drives work in every connector at the shield.

Just noticed that the non working drive will occasionaly throw a AL-06 overload error while the others are raised. It does not generate this error when manually moving the servo.

Hoping Saxxon will have a suggestion, otherwise, that's all I can think to do. Drives seem to cost close to the drive/ motor combo price........ Looks like yet another $300

 

[anton_Chez]

Why wouldn't this be covered under warranty if there is a fault with the driver?

You shouldn't have to pay for something that you just got that doesn't work.

I could swear I heard this problem before, and the last time I heard it, I said the same thing!

 

[Wmacky]

In my case I purchased the motor package over a year ago. I did do the motor jog test. I thought that was good enough.

 

[ThugUK]

Have you tried reprogramming it, setting it up as per instructions?
Double check and if you are sure all is ok double check again.
99% of the time it’s user error.
Perhaps whilst the others are raising the dead one is trying to lower. That’s why you are getting the overload error as it can t lower any further.

 

[_hagenaar]

I'm using the SFX PC board shield. There is no other wiring than that.

The issue seems to be after the D-buss shield connections, as the drive will not work no matter which D-buss connection I plug into, but the other drives work in every connector at the shield.

Just noticed that the non working drive will occasionaly throw a AL-06 overload error while the others are raised. It does not generate this error when manually moving the servo.

Hoping Saxxon will have a suggestion, otherwise, that's all I can think to do. Drives seem to cost close to the drive/ motor combo price........ Looks like yet another $300

Sounds like the encoder direction and the phase sequence of the motor does not match.
Did you connect U V W to the correct connectors? if so try swapping U and V. (only for the problem actuator)
This changes the direction of rotation.
need less to say, power down before you do so!

 

[scornflake]

@scornflake thats your rig in the picture?

How are you finding the SFX system on the P1?

er, which pic?

 

[scornflake]

Just read a load of stuff about wining noise from the SFX rig? Is everyone having this issue?

It's super loud to me. Still working on it.
My initial research was here: https://www.racedepartment.com/threads/simfeedback-ac-diy-motion-simulator-10khz-research.175829/

I'm currently working on EMI issues and will be shielding the motor power cables. It's gonna take a good 20 days for the parts to arrive, so I won't have more info on my results until then. Right not I've disassembled my case (see https://www.racedepartment.com/threads/sfx-100-silent-driver-case-build.177437/#post-3098949) to shield the arduino and fix up it's USB port (that I unceremoniously munted when I put the arduino into the case, by mistake).

 

[scornflake]

Grounding with the green and yellow wire (Protective Earth) is only for safety. to make sure you don't get a shock

Right. The shields will all be connected to that same ground though right? ie: I'll run shields back to the AASD case, attach to case/same earthing point & make sure they are connetect to the motor casings well. Yes?

 

[_hagenaar]

Right. The shields will all be connected to that same ground though right? ie: I'll run shields back to the AASD case, attach to case/same earthing point & make sure they are connetect to the motor casings well. Yes?

yes this is correct but the as i have seen in the pictures the motor power cable has 4 cores so 1 must be the ground

Important is that the shield is not twisted together and than connected to the ground this is a so called pig tail.

 

[scornflake]

yes this is correct but the as i have seen in the pictures the motor power cable has 4 cores so 1 must be the ground

Important is that the shield is not twisted together and than connected to the ground this is a so called pig tail.
View attachment 344613

Yes, pin #1 on the connector. I opened the motor up and the earth terminates onto the encoder once inside the motor chassis.